Archive for April, 2008



Up and out

My real waking up this morning took place in North Truro on Cape Cod. But in the dream it was Israel. I am glad I woke up because I did not seem to be able to get myself out of Israel on my own and something had to happen.

How did I get there? I had been visiting a camp with lots of children who were all involved in one form of gymnastics or another (dance included), each with its own particular uniform. I felt very stiff and awkward amidst all that limberness. At some point a teacher took pity on me and taught me. Her first exercise was to sit with on left leg crossed over the other. I was having a hard time figuring out which leg over which, and it took me awhile to get it right. She then told me to switch my shoes – they were hiking boots – and put the right one on the left foot and the left one on the right. There was something healing about this that I did not get; it only felt awkward but I was a good student and followed instructions.

After that exercise I wandered around the place and discovered a wall that had been taken down. I peeked through it and saw a wonderful scene of a city hewn into the mountaints, like Petra in Jordan. I took a picture and noticed people looking at me in shock. I quickly understood why. I had taken a picture of Israel and that was forbidden. Uniformed men took me away and into a small room. I did not even have time to tell Axel and whoever I was with on the other side. After waiting some time another uniformed man came by and took my camera and tossed it into a small side room that was half filled with digital cameras. I pleaded to keep mine and he smiled and walked away.

I waited for a long time and then looked out the door and found myself in something that looked like the covered entrance of some public transport building. I was still waiting for a nice uniformed man to give me my camera back and lead me back to where I had been before I was apprehended but no one came. Around me there were scenes full of religious overtones, sometimes recognizable, as the three wise kings (but it was spring), Greek orthodox priests in purple robes, clusters of people singing or chanting. I followed some and found myself in a busy city with traffic rushing by and lots of people. I realized that I had to figure out a way to get help and out of this place but I could not read the language, had no money and did not really know where I was. I started to flag down a taxi, figuring I would get myself to the Dutch Embassy but people looked at me in ways that made me realize that the flagging down I was doing was not allright. I was looking for a taxi stand but could only find long lines of people waiting for buses. I started to get hungry, tired and discouraged. It is about that time that a phone or alarm in the room below or next to us, in real life, started to ring. Imagine that, at 6:15 AM on a Sunday morning. But I was happy to wake up to a gorgeous Sunday morning in quiet North Truro, still in posession of my camera (I bet they erased the pictures I took) and knowing my way back.

I ended up in Truro via Laconia (NH) and Centerville (MA). In the morning Bill and I flew, using VORs, from Beverly Airport via Portsmouth to Laconia where we landed on the shores of a still frozen Lake Winnipesauke. From Laconia we flew back through a haze, to Beverly via Concord and Lawrence. I focused on radio contact with various airspaces, keeping the plane level, at the right altitude and on the right course. Bill took responsibility for punching in frequencies and following us closely using various navigational aids. I get a bit lazy with him around because he does things that I ought to be doing, but it is good for me to focus on a few things well and get my confidence back. I executed two perfect landings.

Axel came to pick me up and we drove to Centerville on the Cape to pick up my recent E-bay purchase, an Alden ocean shell. With the boat on the roof we drove another hour further up the Cape to see Alison in N. Truro. She took us into Provincetown where we had a wonderful dinner and then showed us around some of the spots she blogged about on Caringbridge last summer while regaling us with stories about the new and colorful cast of characters that has entered her life. Axel and I, like two elderly folks, were ready to go to bed when Alison was just waking up, but she drove us back to her home anyway, she is such a good host. And now, with everyone still asleep in the house, it is me with two animals, Abby the frisky and wide-awake corgi and Elan, the older and wiser but territorial cat.

Twists and turns

I woke up from dreams about vacation spots and navigating them in a wheelchair, quite well I remember. There was also something about an ancient expresso machine that had Axel’s name on it and intercontinental flights; none of it makes sense anymore, now in broad daylight.

There is much to do this Saturday morning. I am flying at 9:30 with Bill to Laconia and still need to do my preparations for that flight and call the briefer about weather and other things I need to know along the route. Then I have to get everything ready to pick up my new E-bay acquisition, the Alden shell whose owner requires cash and a ride to the Cape. We have decided to continue, after picking up the boat, to see Alison who lives further up the Cape in Truro during weekends. Armed with his allergy medicine, Axel thought it would be a nice outing, a mini vacation of sorts and Alison extended the hoped-for invitation.

Yesterday was a very productive work-day-at-home. I got many items off my to-do list and feel less anxious about the very full and short week that starts on Monday. I also went to see Ruth again after a two months hiatus. The scary flight out of Kabul and other stresses led me to make an appointment with her. I biked over to Beverly Farms since Axel had the car to go to PT and besides, it was a glorious day. I left the house early and took a little break at West Beach in Beverly Farms. I sat on a bench looking out over the ocean, smelling the fishy seaweed that was drying in the sun and that transported me back to Holland, eating haring in the port of Scheveningen. A young woman and her mother were playing on the beach with a three year old (grand)child. The kid has no idea how lucky he is.

Ruth and I explored the tangled up post-crash relationships and how they mingle with work and produce a constant stream of stressful events. We didn’t get to the EMDR until the session was nearly over; just explaining everything took most of an hour. The brief EMDR session that followed produced some images about hands, apart, together, and a fear about losing my compassion. There is more work to do and we will pick it up again when I come back from Ethiopia and Holland.

Back home there was more work to do and more accomplishments that made it OK to sit out in the sun with Andrew, Axel, Gregor and later Jim as we all called it a (work)day. We had a mountain of interesting cheeses in front of us, a cooler full of smililarly interesting beers left over form our party last Sunday and I let go of all restraints. I had two beers (for the first time since July) and too much cheese. I paid a price for that when finally Andrew, Axel and I sat down for a meal and I was both too sleepy and too full to participate much. I managed to stay alert enough to watch Andrews slides from Madagascar from which he just returned. Familiar pictures of a place I once thought Axel and I would live for a while, five years ago. It is funny how life goes. If that had come to materialize I would not have taken up flying, and I would not be writing this blog right now.

Medicinal

On Mondays and Fridays I work from home and therefore don’t have to set the alarm for 4:30 AM. This means I wake up naturally on these days, because of the light (or sun) streaming into our bedroom. One effect of this is that the dreams slip away before I can grasp them. They hang for a moment in this in between space where images become untranslatable into words, like feelings sometimes are, slightly out of reach but still present.

On these days I am also witness to how painful waking up is for Axel. He went on a bike yesterday, to the Manchester Club, and went to bed with some trepidation about the effects of this move. His waking up required an emergency heat pad intervention. The heatpad sleeps between us, and has been every night since he broke out of his plastic corset last September. It is permanently plugged-in, mostly used by him although I occasionally use it at night for my shoulders and neck, which remain stiff and sore at the end of the day. Axel needs to do about an hour of exercises after the first pain and stiffness is gone. This is a hard routine to follow when there is so much else to do in the morning.

Yesterday we had our quarterly MSH staff meeting. This means people from all over the world tune in via their computers and we try to be One MSH. I like these meetings. Back in September or October I was able to be part of such a meeting from home and I had not realized how important it was to be connected like that. In the back of the room is a large piece of red cloth and our IT staff puts on the names of countries that are online for the meeting, Afghanistan, Malawi, Haiti, but also some American states where MSHers live, like Florida. I still think it is amazing that we can do this. We heard about work in family planning worldwide, and then about integrated primary health care from a colleague in South Africa, not as easy to follow between the quality of the sound and the accent of the speaker, but I sort of got the drift.

I finished the last pickings from our hambone. There is a saying I learned yesterday: Eternity is a ham and two people. I think the end of eternity is in sight. That this was nearly true on my latest flight out of Kabul earned me a few more hugs from colleagues yesterday who I had not seen. Some people understand better than others what ‘stalling over high mountains’ really means. One of our travel agents is a pilot himself; he gets it and I get his compassion. All this helps. Today I am seeing EMDR Ruth again to help me with some effects of this latest mishap and other stresses in my life.

On my way home I picked up several meals for Fatou and visited her back in her home in Lynn. I also brought her a bottle of wine because of its medicinal properties. We hang out and talked about the US elections, her family and how scary hospitals are. We compared scars and then I got to use her footmassager which felt wonderful on both my good and my bad foot.

It was another early night, affter this first week back at work. My cold is still there and my energy is pretty much gone by 9 PM.

Ethiopia warm-up

I woke up from Ethiopia dreams to find Ethiopian coffee waiting for me in the kitchen. Axel went shopping yesterday and bought it to get me acclimated to my new destination; an Ethiopian warm-up of sorts.

With a trip so close on the horizon the work that is generated by coming back and leaving is squeezed into this very short time frame. People asked me whether I had some time to recover from Afghanistan and the answer is no. It is like the touch-and-go’s that I practice in my small plane; no stopping.

My flying buddy Bill called me last night and we are going on a trip Saturday; via Portsmouth to Laconia and then back via Concord or Manchester, flying on VORs (instruments) only. It has been a long time since I last did that and I am glad I am flying with an experienced pilot. It will be a great day for flying, as it was yesterday when I came home to a glorious Lobster Cove where a little plane overhead made me want to go straight to the airport. Instead we walked around the loop and saw the bulbs come up and trees leafing out right in front of our eyes. We stopped for a while at the place where the header of my blog is taken. The current header is from 2006. In the meantime a house has gone up on the right and so we need a new set of seasonal shots. The house is actually quite nicely designed into the landscape. Axel is waiting for that special day when the sun is right and all the trees are covered with a thin veil of young green. That’s when he will take the spring picture.

Fatou is out of the hospital and I am trying to arrange a meals-on-wheels kind of arrangement since she has no help at home. It is time for us to give back what we received last summer and fall. We know that she will heal faster if she is surrounded by friends. Her family is in faraway Senegal, so it will have to be friends that circle around her.

Return

I woke up with yet another variation of the cold that I brough to Afghanistan, where it took on local characteristics, and then brought back to Manchester-by-the-Sea. It is a cold that drains me and makes my eyes red. It also leaves a trail of crumpled tissues. I miss the abundant Kleenex boxes that were always replenished by some invisible hand in the MSH guesthouse and office in Kabul.

I also woke up from a dream that had threads of Afghanistan woven throughout. Something about going alone to a dangerous place, where I was taken under false pretenses; once there I had to fend for myself. There were people to advise me and pointed me in directions that required following dark passages and stumbling over sleeping children. Somewhere along my stumblings through the dark I found my friend Suzy who was there with a group of law students. They were looking for opportunities to do good work.

I had earlier visited her sister and we had had a ceremony with a bunch of people. I had given them a picture of a few women in Burqa holding hands with small children. I remember pointing out that the picture answered the question why we were there. I remember saying “lillah” which would mean ‘for God’ in Arabic – fancy that, dreaming in Arabic! But one of the women in the group pasted her own picture over the one I had given. I tried to be light-hearted about it, making some off-hand comment but it fell on deaf ears. Lucikly her photo only partially stuck and dangled at an angle, revealing some of photo underneath. I continued my stumble in that dangerous place until a weird sound (my alarm) brought me back to this world.

It is always hard to get back into the going-to-work routine after a trip, getting up when it is still dark. But seeing my friends and colleagues again makes it all worthwhile. It was nice to see everyone at the office. I received big hugs from people who know I am in my third life. I have experienced, now twice, what most people would consider the scariest things that could happen to anyone. Actually, only my body knows exactly, my mind only parts of it. I can see them thinking, what was it like (with the accent on like)!

I spent the morning training with colleagues from other organizations, for a virtual conference that we will be facilitating and that takes place next week. I like such online trainings and events because you can multi-task while being on the phone and online. Right in the middle of the conference call I won an Alden Ocean shell on E-bay which I am going to pick up next weekend on Cape Cod. Imagine that, rowing out off the Cove when the sea is like a mirror. I cannot wait!

On my way home I went to see my Senegalese friend Fatou who is recovering from surgery in Salem hospital. I found her starved for food as she refused the hospital meals. It was funny that it was me this time to feed Fatou, who, during the summer and fall, has fed us and a cast of thousands the most amazing meals. The best I could do for her was a McD’s meal, a far cry from her elaborate African spreads, but it was exactly what she wanted.

Back home I did not last long. I picked at the leftover hambone from our Easter event and went to bed with a book at 8:00 to fall asleep around 8:30 while Axel was slugging away at his computer to get our taxes done on time. He filed 20 minutes before the deadline. I always give him a hard time and he always delivers in the end, making it a much closer call than I am comfortable with. But still, he delivered and we will get a refund. A high-five for Axel and now on with our lives.

Ninth month

Today is the 14th which always brings back the memories of that fateful day in July and what happened afterwards, both good and bad. Nine months post-crash found Axel and me walking the Masconomo-Proctor Street loop, fairly upright, at a good clip, although still with pains in various large muscle groups. When we come home we should be doing stretches. Instead we ate cake and chocolates left over from our annual Easter celebration – a little late this year because of weather and travel schedules.

Easter remains a significant part of the year for us because that is the time we met and, some time later, fell in love, and, again some time later, married. Since 1985 we have made the arrival of spring and Easter time an excuse for a party to celebrate our love, the arrival of new life in our garden and new beginnings of any kind. It is always a joyous event; what else can it be when you have dear friends spending a good part of a day with you, bringing and eating good food and catching up on work, kids and other important things. The Easter bunny hit the egg bags, this year more on the ground and less in the trees than usual. Climbing trees is not as easy this year for the bunny.

This morning I booked Axel’s flight on April 25 to accompany me to Holland and two weeks later back again. While I am working in Ethiopia Axel will be vacationing in Holland. He was a bit nervous about it, not sure his body can handle the flight over and being away from his own bed and exercise routines. I think I have convinced him that things will work out and if they don’t, we can always find places for massage and physiotherapy. If I can arrange this in Nairobi and Kabul, I am sure we can arrange it in Holland.

He will be arriving at the height of the tulip season so the timing is perfect. We will also be able to participate in two significant events that will bookend the trip: a long overdue family reunion of my mother’s family (de Clercq) and my youngest brother’s 50th birthday.

Small Town

It is wonderful to be home again. Spring is around the corner, not like in DC or Holland where everything is in full bloom, not like Kabul where bushes and trees already have small leaves. As Axel wrote me, the grass is thinking ‘green’ and the trees are thinking ‘buds’ and there is that special smell in the air.

The day was on and off rainy, with in between warm weather that made people wear flipflops. I bicycled into town to join Axel at the annual chowder competition. About 8 area restaurants compete for the ‘best chowder’ title, with an extra category for chile. Axel and I have a different taste: I go for creamy and he goes for fishy.

It was a joyful community event, with all ages trying out the various chowders and chitchatting with each other, debating which chowder to vote for. The contrast with Kabul-under-siege was huge. Coming back from that place I realize how lucky we are to be able to have such community events together, in peace. I don’t think many of the people in this small town realize what we have and how precious it is.

In the afternoon I sorted out my travel stuff, completed various reports and got ready for my next two weeks of virtual facilitation while scanning what else is on my plate. Not too far on the horizon is my trip to Ethiopia. I want to take Axel along for a Holland break on the way in and out; that too requires some planning that cannot be postponed.

The evening was reserved for a quiet 28th anniversary celebration with Axel cooking fish over the fire in the fireplace, and a love note with lobster earrings. Halfway through the meal I gave up keeping my eyes open and went off to bed. It was another night full of Fellini-esque dreams. I woke up several times during the night and scribbled the most vivid scenes on small post-it notes next to my bed.

When I read the notes in the morning they made little sense. There was something about a roll-on suitcase with a wad of wool twisted around one of the wheels so the roll-on didn’t roll on anymore. Also a large gathering of people speaking Romance languages, but, as I wrote, “you don’t need to talk the language to communicate, you can make it up.” And finally something about a long train ride, during which we got blankets. When the train split in the south we were allowed to keep the blankets because of a court case.

There is more, nonsensical phrases; some I cannot decipher or understand. I wonder if some of it has to do with the book The Sewing Circles of Herat that I started reading in Kabul; it is a book that is full of stories about the brutality that men have inflicted on their fellow men (and women and children) and that has ravaged Afghanistan for decades. It makes for uncomfortable reading and even more uncomfortable sleeping. It is about a world that is light years away from peaceful and pictoresque Manchester by the Sea.

Attraction

When I arrived at Logan yesterday Axel and I were like two magnets. The pull even made my suitcase show up early. A brief interference from American officialdom temporarily nulled the attraction. I was welcomed by an officer with a speech defect who fired harsh staccato questions at me like a machine gun: Why were you in Afghanistan? Where is your contractor badge? His red pencil circle around the word Afghanistan on my customs declaration guaranteed another interrogation at customs: Who are you, why were you in Afghanistan, what is your business, where is it, give me the exact address ( I can never remember the street number), show me your business card (sorry, none left). This was followed by a cursory sniffing of my Dutch cheese and chocolate Easter eggs. But once I passed that last hurdle there was no stopping us getting back together. When we finally made contact we stuck together as powerful magnets do, for a long time, inseparable. This was a different kind of homecoming.

A clean house and Sita awaited me; then a bath and a deep sleep until it was time for Abi’s massage in the late afternoon. By 9 PM I was asleep again. I slept fitfully, waking up every few hours but eventually made it all the way till 7 AM, which put me right back on Massaachusetts time.

Not surprisingly the night was full of dreams. At some point in the middle of the night I scribbled my dream on a Post-It Note. I am trying to decipher it now. It was about deeply veined colorful marble slaps that looked like water-colored maps of the Indian Subcontinent. I was with a bunch of women, navigating the veins in the stone like rivers. Someone’s mother was to join us later but then I found Axel and peeled off. There was something about roles and not being with the military; a farewell party with rows of tall glasses full of mint leaves, waiting to be filled with boiling sugar water for syruppy mint tea. I am not sure whether this was one dream or many. Later there was something about mentoring two people for a presentation and being so involved in their success that I forgot to print my own speaking notes. It had something to do with native people from the Pacific Ocean, their architecture and leadership that produced results we wanted to show the audience. When it was my turn to speak I faltered, not having my notes. I was chided for not knowing the highlights of my presentation. I wanted to say to the people, wait, I am not usually unprepared like this, and I know the highlights, but I knew it was useless.

When I woke up it was April the 12th, our wedding anniversary (1980). We had no gifts, no roses or anything like that. The happiness of being in each others’ company and safely back home was the biggest gift we had for each other. We had breakfast in bed and caught up with all the news and things that happened during our separation; and then we planned tomorrow’s annual spring celebration, which we have never skipped since 1985. It is about hope, new beginnings and new possibilities. Now in my third life, we have more survival miracles to celebrate than some people get to do in a lilfetime.

Dejavu

Familiar themes play like old tapes in my head. Jane Kenyon’s poem Otherwise popped up, I got out of bed/on two strong legs/It might have been /otherwise. Images keep coming back, like in July, and my stomach contracts involuntarily when I relive the swaying of the plane, the loud roar. I have been there before and my body remembers.

I had to talk with people badly but I was alone so I fired off random emails to just be in touch; once more an intuitive response to activate my support network. A few responded right away, these virtual hugs did the job. Somehow, being shaken up like that is easier to handle when others shake with you.

I could not sleep as I had planned and hoped; instead I kept re-reading my description of those few minutes of terror. I am not sure if the intent or effect was to take the emotional edge off it or to remind me that it really happened and I survived again. It felt a bit obsessive but I could not help myself. I used the fancy espresso machine in my room, over and over again; first coffee, then tea, and finally I had the eight dollar Foster beer. I took a very long hot bath and then watched a Dutch TV station util it was time to go.

Dubai airport is the opposite of Kabul airport. At Kabul airport there is a little shop that sells bags of nuts and dried fruits, rolls of biscuits, Arabic sweets and coffee and tea from thin paper cups. In Dubai you can buy anything your heart desires, from formula one cars to barbie clothes, as long as you have the money. It is a shopping frenzy that must be an eyesore to those inhabitants from the region who think the west is wicked. The shoppers are the passengers on some twenty long haul carriers that take off within hours of each other to all parts of the world. There were thousands of people, mountains of baggage and long lines everywhere. My Platinum Elite frequent flyer card is a godsend. It offers some respite from the lines and the hustle and bustle.

The flight was full and I could not get the upgrade I so badly wanted. I slept fitfully and watched a sweet Chinese movie that made me forget about bad things. In Amsterdam I called Axel to hear his voice and let him know I am nearly home.

As I am bracing for the last part of the trip my body is sending out signals that it needs some TLC. Axel has set up and appointment for me for massage later today and then I think I will return to Ruth next week for some remedial EMDR work, to bring everything back on an even keel.

I flew back with two MSH colleagues, Miho, who used to live in Kabul, and Yen, coming in from Addis and Nairobi also on their way home.

Close

We took off from Kabul airport in the rain and clouds. The Hindu Kush mountain range forms a bowl with Kabul at the bottom. It wasn’t great weather for flying but also nothing unusual for the pilots of the UN flight who shuttle between Dubai and Kabul year in year out (since 2002) several times a week. I thought a lot about my three colleagues who perished in a Kam Air plane that flew into the mountains as it approached Kabul, three years ago. I am acutely aware of the risks of flying in bad weather in the mountains. But I am also acutely aware of the thorough training that pilots receive and that dealing with emergencies is a big part of their training. So I settled in my seat with the intent to sleep all the way to Dubai. Little did I know that we were to need the pilot’s experience very soon.

Suddenly the plane started to shudder and bank first left then right, then left again. I felt the plane’s nose going down and I could sense that we were losing speed and altitude. The view from the window was solid white; we were still in the clouds. A loud roar coming from the back accompanied the shaking and banking of the plane. I don’t think I have ever prayed that hard in my life. I later understood from a veteran pilot sitting across the aisle that the plane went into a stall on its climbout over the mountain. In July my plane went into a stall which makes it uncontrollable and we crashed. Now we were over high mountains. Taking the nose down is only possible if you have enough clearance. I had no idea whether we did.

In my little Piper Warrior I had to practice stalls all the time and learn what to do. It is very simple, you put the nose down and gain enough speed to produce the necessary lift so you can pick up speed again and climb out. It becomes problematic when you cannot put the nose down. This happened in July. We were lucky to crash in a pond. I have never in my 30 years of flying around the world experienced a stall in a big jet. I knew that if our altitude was too low to clear the mountain we would not survive this stall. The passengers were all looking at each other in great fright and I kept thinking about Carmen, Cristy and Amy, wondering whether it had been like that during the final last minutes of their doomed flight. My body was preparing for a calamity (the body knows), with a surge of adrenaline and a fast heartbeat. It was nothing like the serenity of my last fall out of the sky. I wondered, would I be lucky, again, this time or would this be another one of those early morning calls to Jono, his third.

The whole thing lasted only a few minutes but it felt like an eternity. We saw the flight crew run to the back, I smelt gasoline and wondered wether the plane was dumping its fuel for an emergency landing (where? I wondered). And then the crew returned from the back of the plane with two thumbs up and smiles on their faces. From the hard to hear explanation over the intercom I heard something about ice and windsheer, a potentially fatal combination. Later the second pilot made the rounds, shaking hands with us. I asked him what really happened and that is when I found out that we just escaped what may well have been the same scenario that killed our three sisters. As the plane was climbing to clear the top of a mountain, wind surged over the mountain top and pushed the nose down; trying to bring it back up caused the stall. As I am writing this I realize how close a call it had been and that it was much worse than I had thought. In aviation this event is called an ‘incident’ which requires investigation. Why did the plane go in a stall and why was there so little clearance. The veteran pilot across the aisle who flies for USAID in Afghanistan is going to find out.

Although the second pilot, a Ghanaian, claimed that God, not the pilot had saved us, I knew that the pilot’s experience and strength to hold the controls, was an important part of our narrow escape.

Later I was asked to fill in a standard customer survey questionnaire about cleanliness and politeness of the crew and all that. I put a big line through the whole thing and wrote in the comment section that none of that actually mattered; the only thing that did matter today was the pilot’s skill and whether the aircraft was airworthy. That is really all I want from an airline. It is amazing how quick your priorities change. I learned that in July and I am reminded of it again.

The passengers bonded instantly as we recovered from our scare. In front of me sat an Ethiopian looking gentleman. I ask him if I had identified him correctly and the answer was yes. He was a USAID IT contractor from Ethiopia who was on his way home. I might see him in two weeks. When you have been scared to death together, you become instant friends.

With the adrenaline still coursing through my body I could no longer sleep and all my tiredness was gone. So I wrote; it helped to get some of the fright out of my system. Going to a hot flat place suddenly felt very attractive. And then there is that thought…. that someone is watching over me.

I shared a taxi to my hotel with two Brits, one military and one carpenter. Neither one had realized that we had just had a very close call. The military guy was not perturbed the way I was. I guess death is a professional hazard for him. The British taxpayer paid for the ride.


April 2008
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