Archive for July 7th, 2008

Fight or flight

American Airlines also paid for the MIA hotel which, luckily, did not require me to leave the airport and deal with baggage carts that always have to be left behind, and stand in fuel-saturated areas to wait for the one shuttle bus that is not in the line up. After I picked up my bags I simply took the elevator two floors up and wheeled my bagage cart right into my room. The stranded LAC passengers were less lucky (“our late arirval was caused by traffic control at JFK! – write to the government!”) and probably were not going to pay the overpriced hotel room that had a seller’s market advantage.

The day did not start auspiciously: another long wait in between towering baggage carts with people trying to jump the line. I think most people were still too sleepy to protest. Then came the bad coffee (I should have taken the Cubano) and the reactionary radio talk show blabbering overhead in the waiting area by the gate. My breakfast consisted of an almond croissant (plus bad coffee) compliments of American Airlines, that left my brown travel dress flecked with powdered sugar and me with sticky hands. I have now been eating bad and overpriced airport/airline foods for over 24 hours and am craving fresh vegetables and fresh fruit.

At boarding time the noise level started to rise again. I was dreading this last part of the trip and hoped, even prayed, that it would be, indeed, the last part of this trip. I have come to believe there is a shouting and yelling bell curve (which does, by the way, not apply to kids). When people are not quite awake in the early hours of the day or overtired and worn out at the end of the day there is very little yelling. In the middle of the day after just enough abuse and frustration, the shouting gets to its shrill peak, creating more abuse in its wake. So that is how the cycle gets maintained. I am imagining the flight attendants and ground crew coming home at the end of the day, worn out and tired and then act it out on their spouses, children or pets. I also wonder if being put on the Haiti flight for duty is considered punishment among the staff, like the vodka-soaked Delta flight from Moscou to New York, as I have been told.

This endless trip is only palatable because I write. It forces me to look at and for amusing situations and things, which takes my mind off obsessing about things that go wrong. For this purpose I carry with me a tiny little notebook and a pencil. Here are some of the things I scribbled into this note-booklet while most of my fellow travelers were nervous, angry, yawning or simply asleep.

A cashier at the airport wore a Direct Merchants Land’s End shirt. The logo was embroidered where the restaurant or hotel’s logo should be. I could tell it was not the real thing because the comma was in the wrong place. Later I stood in line behind a guy with fascinating Chinglish written on the back of his shirt: December XVIII: Abuse of greatness is when join remore from power. To complete the outfit he wore a baseball hat of the brand ‘Caffeine’ according to the little metal plate glued to the back.

On the plane to Miami yesterday I was sitting in front of a young Christian man and a young Orthodox Jew (curly side locks, black hat and all). They were talking about Jesus. The Christian kid say, incredulously, “you mean Jesus was just a regular guy?” “Yes,” said the other kid, softly, “just a regular guy.” He said it in a very compassionate way, like you would break bad news to someone. There was more conversation but the fire seemed to have gone out of it after the devastating news about Jesus. The young Jewish gentleman did not say much after that and kept stroking his prayer book. I tried to imagine what his life would be like. Of course I cannot, but I have just finished the 650 page book, translated from German into Dutch, which traces one Swiss Jewish family from the mid 1800s until 1945 and was deeply immersed in the life and rituals of his people back in the old days. My two full days of being in transit was good for several hundred pages.

At JFK airport yesterday there were many young and old orthodox men, all dressed in the same uniform, same hats, same locks. One carried two small black boxes attached to long leather straps and some form of headgear. He was looking for travelers willing to undergo a ritual he was willing to provide. I wondered whether he was doing some sort of practicum, as I did not think this was about winning souls. Two teenage boys agreed and I watched intently how one of them had his arm encircled by the black straps, one square on his head, covered by the headgear and another on his arm. After that there were prayers said and the boys closed their eyes. It was all done in about 5 minutes. The young boys walked away excitedly and the young Jewish man wrapped all his religious paraphernalia up and, unsuccessfully, approached others before joining his people in a far off corner. I felt like an antropologist observing an old tribe. There was so much I had wanted to ask them but I did not dare, afraid I would also be strapped up and prayed over. In hindsight it might have been a good thing.

There was more. Once in the plane (another very ancient Airbus that had known better times) a man with an entire multi-story sound system the size of a good size suitcase worked his way against the traffic from the back of the plane to the front. He was accompanied by a number of big mamas, all with handbags that could give you a head injury if you did not duck in time. It seemed they were on the wrong side of the plane. Chaos. After a while they returned; more chaos, more ducking. They were on the right side of the plane after all. They disappeared towards the back, with much commotion. The flight attendants simply ignored the whole thing and did not raise an eyebrow.

Sitting in the A seat next to me was a young woman who must have eaten tons of garlic on the eve of her departure (I got used to the smell within fifteen minutes). More entertaining was the gentleman on the far end of our row. He wore a brand new baseball cap. I could tell it was brand new because the large sales ticket was still attached, dangling from the top. Nobody seemed to think this was something one should remove, and I was not going to tell him. 

By the time we landed (more intense praying and hallelujas) I had stopped caring or finding anything odd or worth writing about. Even the young woman (on last night’s flight) who, seconds before landing got up and went to the bathroom. The flight attendant just shrugged her shoulders, rolled her eyes and then advised her to stay seated on the toilet during landing. No big deal, after a long day of work it seemed the rules are quite bendable. Everyone was tired, why fight?

I don’t love New York

Or to be more precise, AA and JFK. It feels like it was today but it’s past midnight, so it is yesterday. I am now in Miami. Not quite where I had intended to be but about halfway. I spent the entire day at JFK airport. Actually, that is not entirely correct; between 9:30 and 12:30 I was in a plane, some of that time on the tarmac, which I know really well by now, and some of that time in the air. About one hour into our very delayed flight to Port au Prince, we returned with a leaking fuel tank. I was happy that the captain decided not to risk running out of fuel before we reached our destination because there’s no place to land before you get to Haiti after you leave the North American coast.

The flight was full, noisy on the way out; very quiet on the way back – lots of praying going on all around me. But once on the ground the intense prayer turned into yelling and screaming to anyone who dared to disagree that this was unfair, a plot against Haitians (why would American Airlines put a faulty plane on the Haiti route?). One does not argue with a person whose emotional buttons have been pushed. The rationality of some people only put oil on the emotional flames. At times I had to put my fingers in my ears to hear myself think.

This is the second time on this double feature trip that I am arriving a day later than planned. In Ghana, in the end, it did not matter. It better not matter again. Maybe the universe is signaling me that such tight schedules are just invitations for delayed arrivals. It meant that, once again, I will have to make a running start, just like last week in Ghana. I can do that.

Yesterday’s travel day from hell also stood in sharp contrast to my pleasant flight to and from Accra in business class. As Axel remarked during one of my frequent phone calls to him (to vent), “you are out of your traditional corridor.” Indeed I was, and I’m afraid I still am.

Once back at JFK there were long lines populated with angry people and ground staff who acted as if this has happened before. They did their best but were very stingy with handing out anything that could make our life easier, such as dinner coupons or lounge passes (we couldn’t give lounge passes to everyone, imagine!). I have no frequent traveler standing with American Airlines so no special treatment for me; no special lines, no lounges. I had forgotten how bad it is to be part of the crowd of low status travelers.

I did not want to relive the experience of the early morning check-in for a flight to Haiti at JFK, which bad in itself, would also require getting up at about 3 AM. I wanted to get out of the NY airspace as quick as possible and try my luck in another airspace. Miami seemed like a good waypoint that would give me at least some sense of progress for an entire day of ‘travel.’ Retrieving the luggage took several hours which meant I missed the 4:30 PM flight to Miami. It was just as well that I missed that flight which arrived at the same time as my later flight, around 11 PM; all flights were delayed but some more than others.

Leaving JFK was once again slow going. It was my fourth long wait on the tarmac at JFK in less than a week. As a result we arrived so late in Miami that most flights to Latin America had left so there were more angry people, but less shouting. I suspect most people had been worn out by all the waiting. That included me.


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