Archive for December, 2008



Cinch

The trip from Dubai to Dhaka was a cinch after having already covered the distance between Boston and Dubai. I travelled surrounded by a large family of Bangladeshis returning from a shopping trip in Dubai. If you live in this part of the world and you have money, apparently that is where you go. The family occupied about a quarter of all the business class seats and included several fat little boys – the kind I remember from Lebanon – little princes I don’t find all that adorable but they make their moms smile no matter how obnoxious they are. At Dhaka airport the family was met by an official with an official looking tag on a lanyard around his neck. I assumed they were either related to the Emirates station manager or it was a quid pro quo for a Biman Airlines official. It was a happy crowd that walked away with the gentleman, holding hands and swinging their large and full shopping bags.

I was met before immigration by a man with two stripe epaulets who looked like an airline pilot holding a sign that said BRAC conference rather than my name. He did not speak any English of significance and so I followed him silently. He did take me right past the long line of people waiting to get their passport stamped, straight to the front of the line marked ‘crew.’ That got me into Bangladesh in no time. It was then I realized I had forgotten to tell my Bangla friends I was coming. To remedy this and to get me set up for a work related phone call tomorrow night I got myself a simcard from the money I had leftover from my last trip here, some 9 years ago, 500 Taka, which was still good money after all those years.

I met Anna who also came from the US for the conference. We will be roommates. Anna lives in DC but is a doctoral student at Harvard School of Public Health and presenting on her thesis which is about contracting for health services. We were driven to the conference center, about one hour out of Dhaka. By the time we got on the road it was 9 PM and dark and, supposedly, after rush hour (though rush enough for me).

The trip to the conference center was a little scary with most cars driving on the wrong side, which is the ride side here (left) but some driving on the wrong side for Bangladesh which would be the right side for me – I tried not to look too much at the oncoming traffic, especially when the headlights seemed to be coming straight at us. That, not bombs in hotels, is the true occupational hazard for my line of work. The driver of our little minibus was expert at swinging out of the way, sometimes off the pavement, to avoid the headlights that did not swerve back at the last minute. I gave him a heartfelt ‘donabad’ when we arrived at the center in one piece.
We were received at the center like long lost cousins, with several short men swarming around us handing us our nametags, a conference back and getting us to our rooms, then dinner. The dorms we are sleeping in are laid out around two low pools connected by a little bridge. I hope the water is treated to repel mosquitoes. I am in that part of the world and was stung already at the airport. I am glad I remembered the malaria prophylaxis although I forgot the mosquito repellent.

Our room is sparse and functional with a small desk with two chairs, two cubbyholes for our clothes and two narrow twin beds. I am back in economy class. We will be here for four nights and four days, of which this first one is a special one, my 57th birthday, on which I find myself alive and well.

Blue carpet

I learned from Dubai TV that the US is now officially in recession and caught up with the news of the day – International AIDS Day no less – from my multi-pillowed bed in a luxurious Dubai hotel, while eating complimentary chocolates and dates for breakfast.

KLM, true to its reputation, delivered me right on time to Dubai where we were welcomed by white clad men and black clad women wearing the kinds of scarves you see at soccer games in Europe, except the people pictured on the scarves were the UAE’s rulers rather than sports heroes. I arrived on their national holiday which is spread out over several days. The private sector, I learned from the newspaper has a mandated three day holiday because of this. With next week’s Eid El Adha, this makes for a very relaxed start of December if you work here.

I was chauffeured to my hotel by a Pakistani taxi driver who once lived in Cambridge with his Harvard-educated scientist wife (they divorced since). He congratulated me with my new president and showed that he followed the cabinet making closely. He thought Hillary was good a choice. He was at loss about what to make of the Mumbai massacres. The taxi driver who returned me to the airport this morning was from India. His English was not very good and he answered all my questions, including the open ended ones with a wobble of his head and a happy ‘yes Madam.’

Luck had it that the only seats available on the flight to Dhaka were business class and so I got to check out how Emirates deals with its business class passengers. The terminal has a separate entrance and a large reserved area of the terminal building for first and business class passengers that looks like the entrance of a high end luxury hotel. You really get a feel for the riches of a nation when there are more check-in counters for first class passengers alone than all the check-in counters for any airline at Logan. Between first and business class check in (red carpet and blue carpet) there were 36 counters. The business class lounge, separate from first class, is the size of the entire Logan terminal E with wireless internet, two restaurants, a cafe/snack bar, a fully stocked bar, a day spa, hotel rooms, showers, and, best of all, the most electrical outlets per square inch than I have seen anywhere else in the world. There is a separate first class lounge and I can’t imagine how that one can top this. I am enjoying the luxury while it lasts, as it will stop when I land in Dhaka tonight and return to the real world. I think I will treat myself to a glass of chilled Veuve Clicquot and a Lebanese mezze with the compliments of Emirates Airlines.

Traveling light

Bill had already been scraping the frost of our plane for 40 minutes by the time I arrived at Beverly airport yesterday morning. I felt a bit guilty and vigorously scraped a few more flakes away, something that was not necessary, Arne said, as the plane was good to go, but it made me feel a little more virtuous. Winter flying requires special dedication because of this scraping and the cold fingers it produces in addition to the difficulty of starting the motor. But then, once you are up in the air, all the hard work is instantly forgotten as the landscape below and ahead moves into delightful focus.

Bill took the pilot seat on the way out to Fryeburg, 85 nautical miles due north. While Bill did the work of flying I enjoyed being a passenger. The last time we flew (more than three weeks ago) there were still leaves on the trees but now everything was bare, with patches of snow and frozen ponds as we moved further north. It was a grey and overcast day that was waiting for a front to arrive from the south. We flew low under the coastal clouds for a part of the route. Once they dissipated Mount Washington came into view: snow covered and sun lit, a glorious sight.

We landed at the tiny Fryeburg airport that had already been plowing its runway. Inside the flight center we checked the progress of the front and decided to return straight away rather than circling over North Conway to take a close look at Mount Washington. That turned out to have been a good decision as freezing rain started to fall the moment we landed in Beverly. I piloted us back and Bill served as my unofficial instructor. Our next flight appointment is on December 13 when we will be touching down on two islands, Long Island as our destination and Block Island on the way home; we expect it will take the entire day.

Back home I resumed my light packing; I am traveling with hand luggage only this time and am not bringing any of the gadgets and gifts, markers and tape I usually bring. I am not in charge for any events for a change and love the lightness that that brings with it.

We went to see Katie Blair and Andrew for a late soup lunch and a walk in the woods behind their house in the cold drizzle. We returned home thoroughly chilled – a fire would have been nice but there was not enough time. Axel took me to the airport early so we could have a meal on the ground allowing me to sleep, albeit it fitfully, through the meal serving in the air. My antihistamine-induced drowsiness did little for a good night sleep although it did produce some vivid dreams. I have had this dream before in which the plane plunges down at accelerating speed and me thinking, in a flash of recognition, “oh no, there we go again!” There is a residual fear of flying that I tend to deny in my waking hours, but my dreams show it’s there all the time.

People

When you travel you discover the universe of people; its variety in size, intelligence, skin color, dress, and of course level of attractiveness. One thing that makes flying less tedious is that there is so much to see and guess about. I am curious about the people whose lives temporarily intersect with mine.

Here are some of my co-travelers on the Sunday evening flight to Amsterdam. There is the young Indian family with three small children, one boy and twin girls, pint-sized copies of their mom, even their clothes are similar. They wriggle like little fish when not asleep and talk with high-pitched voices, asking questions that no one answers. I am sure they are going to see the extended Indian family, grandma, grandpa and all the aunties and uncles and cousins. If this is the first time, they will be in for a shock, if the description of a such a reunion in the book ‘The Namesake’ has any grounding in real life. Because of the book I can imagine the reunion. The little boy exclaims, in perfect American English, pointing at the impressive cloud formations below us, “Dad is that Europe?” His eyes are the size of ping pong balls and everything is new and important to him.

In front of me, across the aisle, sits a young (also Indian) fellow who is studying for an exam. One chapter is about Integer Programming – it looks complicated and tedious; there are lots of tables and graphs for him to remember. Next to me, on the other side of the seat that was left empty, sits a young teenager. He is probably about 18 and is dressed the part: hair dyed black with a few orange streaks, stuck together with some substance to make it stay up in a loose version of a mohawk cut; his pants barely held up by thin hips below a too fat belly. His arms are tattooed with text and pictures. When he leans too far over to my side I can smell the sigaret smoke in his hair. But his face is that of a big little boy and when we land he clutches a large teddy bear that wears a T-shirt with a Happy Hanukah greeting.

A few rows in front of me sits a short and heavy African American woman of a certain age. She has to be told which of the three seats is the window seat. Like the little Indian boy everything is new. She has no idea about the rule ‘ stay seated when taxiing.’ Her suitcase is of the size that ought to have been checked. Two flight attendants squished it into the overhead bin. I wonder about her story and what gets her to travel by plane so late in life and on such a long trip. Even after we land she is not sure what happens next. She is told to wait for the wheelchair and then sinks back into her chair. Her seat row mates are an elderly Indian couple, she with a cervical collar on, he tiny and bespectacled. I admire the flight attendants with their infinite patience. I wonder whether they are patient at home.

Across the aisle from me three enormous men are folded like pretzels in their exit row seats. I am glad I am not big. The only thing to their advantage is the way the seat is shaped around their backs and neck – good for them, not for me, I am too short for the curves to fit. And so we are all having trouble sleeping in these chairs.

And finally, in back of me is my colleague Jean who is on his way to the Comoro Islands. His ticket presented a challenge for the Northwest lady who had a hard time figuring out where to ship his luggage to – she’d never heard of the place. Jean will be working with Oumar who is flying into Amsterdam later today from Conakry. I will be gone by then and so we will miss an impromptu and unexpected reunion in Amsterdam.


December 2008
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