Archive for February 19th, 2009

From groentesoep to imperial suite

The economic turndown also showed itself on the plane leaving Amsterdam; it was only half full. Once again I had an entire row to myself after my neighbor moved to the row in front of us. That was a good thing because for the 30 minutes that he did sit next to me he imbued the entire row and especially his seat with the smell of Dutch groentesoep (vegetable soup). The pungent smell lingered for a long time after he moved. I have nothing against vegetable soup, I like it, but as a smell on humans it is not so great.

We left Holland a little later than planned because the plane could not disconnect itself from the jet way – as if some mechanical umbilical cord tried to keep us from leaving. It took two batches of mechanics jumping up and down something to shake us loose.

While flying over the Alp and the Mediterranean I watched Oliver Stone’s ‘W’ and was most intrigued by the senior leadership team scenes. I think it would make good discussion material for such teams about what it means to lead at the very top. As a psychologist I was also drawn into the parental dynamic and wondered how much of world affairs is influenced by powerful sons (or daughters – but there are less of those) who feel the need to prove themselves over and over again and show their dads, dead or alive, that they are worthy human beings, while breaking things along the way. The book I just finished (We Were the Mulvaneys by Carol Oates) is about the same topic. I think I have never quite disengaged from my original professional ambition to be a family therapist; a person who I believe does the world’s most important preventive work.

I have observed this dynamic up close and nearby but the harm that can be inflicted on others in the process is usually contained and mostly local, unless of course the family produces a future president of the most powerful nation in the world. In that light Obama’s story is just as interesting.

In Khartoum we refueled and I watched the day turn into night in no time; as a northerner this short twilight is always a surprise. I much prefer our drawn out process and the slow transition from light to dark and vice versa.

The last part of the trip gave me just enough time to scan the bulk of the background documents that I had been saving into one ‘to read’ file. I am lucky that Liz is already there and can brief me on the lay of the land and all the things she already found out after a week in Addis. She’s known as a super productive worker; I have already noticed that.

We landed in Ethiopia exactly at the appointed time and I was out before Kalid the driver, who was sent to pick me up, arrived. He intercepted me just as I was about to get into a taxi. I arrived at the hotel and was given what appears to be the imperial suite, a three-room affair with a huge terrace where you could hold a party for fifty people. It looks out over the red light district below and a good chunk of the city. ethiopia-005It has several gurgling Italianate fountains with cast iron lovers and vines, a gas terrace heater like you find in cities that use terraces all year round even when cold. There’s more: a vending machine, a gas grill and about 5 outdoor furniture sets (large round tables and chairs) plus a swinging settee. I have a strong suspicion that it is not just for me. In fact, when we did a workshop in this hotel during my last visit this is where we had our coffee breaks. But now, late at night, all is quiet and I am here alone.

ethiopia-006Inside there are two large flat screen TVs, one in my (king size) bedroom and the other in the living room with kitchenette with its well stocked refrigerator (drinks only), four burners, microwave, 8 kitchen cupboards with only the most essential china and silverware for two, and a granite counter top. There is also a fake fireplace with a plastic log, also of the Italianate style. These Italians surely left their marks here. And finally I have fairly good speed wireless. All this for 60 dollars less than the US-government allowed maximum rate so I am actually saving money for the American tax payer. A flyer on my desk of the hotel group that, I suppose owns this hotel invites me to ‘bring my exhausted sole & depart singing…’ So stay tuned.

Gloom and room

The world economic crisis is showing up in the gloomy graphs on the front of the Dutch newspapers and in the empty plane to Amsterdam with room to spare. I have rarely had an empty seat beside me on my twenty years of Atlantic crossings. My first two flights in 2009 allowed me to sleep, fully extended over 4 seats as if in a bed. This is when a good thing is actually a bad thing.

And so I had a good (half) night sleep, full of dreams. The only one I remember is that I was about to receive a visit from some official who was coming to my house to extend a permit for something that was up for renewal and for which I had to show my continued proficiency. I knew I had to bone up on procedures or rules that contained precise numbers that I had forgotten. Somewhere in my (childhood) room there was a booklet that I needed to review before his arrival; but I couldn’t find it and the search became increasingly frantic. And then the beverage cart came through and released me from my anxiety, offering me watery tea in a Styrofoam cup and a tiny cereal bar that is supposed to taste like apple.

Axel drove me in to work yesterday morning. He had an appointment with the brain injury doctor. The visit was a routine check up and things are going in the right direction. But I did notice he forgot his wallet as we got into the car and is easily distracted when he remembers things he should have done/taken and did not – mostly small things, usually with little or no consequence, that show that his executive function is not quite where it needs to be. In spite of this handicap he appears to be handling the complex and complicated job of chair of the town’s community preservation committee remarkably well. But then again, if you work in town you can pretty much leave your wallet at home.

At work there was one more all-morning meeting with our evaluators, this time less powerpoints and more conversation that showed our virtual capacity building portfolio. I have seen it expanding over the years, seen colleagues learn their way into this, including myself in the area of virtual facilitation, and realized as I listened to their presentations that we have come a long way and have much to be proud of.

At lunch time Morsi, Jennifer and I took our intern Nuha out to lunch to celebrate her last day with us, or maybe it is ‘mourn’ her last day. Nuha and I have gotten quite close since we met less than a year ago in the BU course, she a student, and I the professor. We have introduced each other to our respective worlds, hers a world populated by women in a desert kingdom, mine a New England one that includes a lush Lobster Cove, trips in small planes and eating apples straight from the tree.

Nuha showed us pictures of camping out in the Riyadh desert with her female relatives, including a video of singing around a campfire. I have an open invitation to visit her when she is back in Riyadh and participate in such an event. It looks like fun but definitely would require some intense work on my Arabic before I go as it will be a total immersion experience.

The tent is not like what I thought hearing the word; in her world a tent is a like a huge Bedouin tent, permanently set up in the sand on the outskirts of the city, that you can rent if you don’t have your own, and all you do in it is sleep as the days are too hot to be inside and the evenings too cold (close to zero Celsius) and so you sit outside around a fire – it is the desert after all.

I have nearly finished working through my 10 Pimsleur Persian lessons during my commute to work and decided to check with my Afghan colleague Saeed whether I am actually learning something that people in Kabul can understand. He told me that people would notice that I spoke the language of Iran rather than Afghanistan but they would understand me. The problem is that I would not understand much of what they would be saying to me as the words are quite different. I now imagine that the difference is something like between Portuguese and Spanish, where the Portuguese can understand the Spanish speakers but not the other way around. Thus, getting an Afghan tutor is becoming more important now to help me make the adjustments in my newly acquired vocabulary.

And now I am in Amsterdam, waiting for my next departure, just a couple of hours away, first to Khartoum and then Addis.


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