Archive for May, 2009

The people she knows

We started the day with a yoga class, that is, the girls did. Axel started it with lots of coffee and frantic work on Gary’s marketing material that had to be delivered before the day was over. As a result he missed the post-yoga picnic on the beach. The drizzle clouds departed and left us with a day more typical of July than May. misc 012

After Axel’s work was shipped to Gary via an old-fashioned modem (transmission speed 24 Kbps), we spent the afternoon reading our haunting books, Axel’s about Afghanistan and mine about genocides until it was time to go into P’town. It took a while for Axel to mentally jump from the Taliban to Provincetown.

First stop was Alison’s friend Ward who was not in a good state of mind. He can be excused because his body is failing him and he has had enough. He should be in the prime of his life but he is not – closer to the end which he constantly invoked. Still, he could not help inquiring about our kids and whether we had educated them about HIV/AIDS. He offered us a glass of wine while we sat in his garden in the middle of P-town in the late afternoon glow and talked about a father who could not accept gayness and a mother who devoted the last years of her life to caring for her sick son.

We left our car at Ward’s and wandered over to our reserved dinner place on the other side of town right along P-town’s main drag – which was also enlivened by a few fabulously dressed drag queens exhorting people to come to the theatre. Alison appears to be well integrated in at least one subset of the year-round gay community and I think we met a good number of her friends – the ones we had heard about in so many stories.

Dinner was a noisy affair. The quality of the food and the location, a table overlooking the sea made up for the extreme noise that came from the very loud party sitting next to us – New Yorkers we think – a tribe that supports the Cape economically but can be a bit trying because they act as if they are the only ones there.

Dessert was planned to come from a different place, the Purple Feather, where another of Alison’s friends is the assistant manager. He offered us a very rich concoction with cookies, cream cheese and chocolate which we embellished even further with ice cream because we couldn’t resist the display. misc 020We consumed our dessert while listening to an open mike array of musicians – a young man from western Massachusetts, who was a bit trying on the ears and a lesbian couple who proudly sung about their coming out late and their newfound happiness together.misc 019

The Post Office Café was next on our list of stops. Here Alison knew the bartender, Dante, who she claims is the best on the Cape. misc 022We had to try at least one of his concoctions: a Cosmo for Alison and for us a dry martini. That drink should have come before dinner but here in P-town everything is a bit out of the ordinary.

Muscle mess on vacation

As the deadline approaches for using vacation days that I stand to lose – we can only bring forward a certain amount – it becomes increasingly important to find ways to use them; thus yesterday was made into a vacation day, as a prelude to our weekend on the Cape.

The day started with a massage during which Abi kept trying to undo or at least soften the muscle mess around my injured shoulder and upper arm. Since everything is connected to everything else, the tightness extends in all directions. Some of the deep tissue massage was painful but I come from a culture where pain means something is being gained. I hope so.

Axel was next in line for a massage – different body parts, different causes – also with muscle messes and pain for gain. While Axel was being massaged I set up various appointments with doctors that all need to happen in a short period of time, carefully arranged around trips. This is becoming increasingly difficult to accomplish.

Hours later than we had planned we sat off heading south towards Cape Cod for a weekend with Alison in her little North Truro hideaway. On the way we stopped to see Uncle Charles who is only months away from his 100th birthday. He fell, broke his hip (or the other way around) and is now being rehabbed in an inn-like place near his home. His niece Ann is looking after him and keeping the space filled with so many stories that they left me breathless. I tried to reconstitute Axel’s maternal family tree in my head – Sita once drew it on a paper napkin during lunch with Charles about a year ago – but failed, so I simply listened and gave up trying to figure out who goes where on the chart. Although Ann is direct first cousin of Axel, she is already a great grandmother several times over and has produced three more generations against our single one.

Two hours later we left the place, just when a long line of the really old people (as opposed to the young old and the medium old) where lining up to take their seat in the dining room downstairs – a parade of wheelchairs, walkers, walking sticks, grey (or no) hair and rounded backs, enthusiastically received by the most jovial and chipper wait staff. We were told the food was actually quite good. The whole experience stood in sharp contrast with Axel’s rehab experience in Salem.

Less than 2 hours later we pulled up at Alison’s second floor cottage in North Truro and were enthusiastically greeted by dog Abby who instantly laid her favorite toys at Axel’s feet. Alison told us that this is a sign of bonding that’s not for everyone. Abby is like a toddler – never tired of doing the same thing over and over. Like a toddler she has her basket of toys. Unlike a toddler it includes a cow’s hoof – which she chewed on Axel’s shoe – apparently also a sign of affection.

Alison had cooked us a dinner (elegant and easy) that she had plucked off a daytime TV show while stuffing hundreds of packets of condoms, lube and breath mints for the local HIV/AIDS action committee’s outreach campaign. I had never heard of the show and its hostess, the peppy Ms. Rachel Ray. But Axel knew about her. This made me a bit suspicious about what he does while I am out at work earning money (he denied the charge and had some explanation that I have now forgotten but sounded convincing at the time).

And now our brief holiday on the Cape has started. Unfortunately it is still drizzling outside, against all predictions. I have learned that the hurricane season has started two days before its scheduled beginning on June 1. It drizzles when you are on the far outer edges, which is good for our newly planted flowers and crops but not for people who are on vacation.

Talks

I had my first formal interview for the position in Afghanistan. Talking about the work, the responsibilities, the challenges made me even more eager to get the job. I have to be careful not to get too invested in the idea because there are others who want the job. I figured that my strongest competitor would be an Afghan-American woman with tons of executive experience if the decision is made that an outsider rather than an insider to MSH is preferred. It’s funny how, when you are at a fork in the road, so many people seem to know what lies ahead around the corner.

My French-speaking colleagues and those who want to perfect their French have initiated a one-a-month French-lunch-about-a-topic at work. Yesterday’s lunch was facilitated by Ashley, a spirited young woman whose enthusiasm overcomes any hang-ups one might have about not speaking French perfectly. She had picked the topic of HIV/AIDS and prepared a glossary of terms in English and French. I was very impressed.

She asked us all to talk about what we had recently learned about HIV and AIDS. We went around the table. Our group included four young American women, one from the Middle East and two African males, one a doctor from Cameroon and the other an IT expert from Senegal.

The one doctor in the room was by far the most knowledgeable, as he should be, and I discovered he is also a great teacher. We talked about facts and perceptions, male behavior and got an illustrated lecture about the female condom. I could show what it looked like (no one had one in their pockets) with the pictures I had taken at GHC earlier this week and placed on facebook. As we checked out my facebook page we could also see who of our colleagues were on facebook while at their desks.

While I had my hair cut at the end of the day, I listened to what happens to a woman who is financially and administratively illiterate and trusting a husband who should not have been trusted. I suspect this story is played out in shocking numbers around the world. She is discovering that she signed for 2nd and 3rd mortgages on a house she thought she owned and is hundreds of thousands of dollars in debt while at the same time replaced by another who has taken her place in the heavily mortgaged home and conjugal bed.

Her image of an ordinary marriage, couple with teenage son, has shattered like a mirror into a thousand pieces. I can practically see the reverberations of this monumental source of distress across the network of relationships each of them are in.

I remember telling her at least 10 years ago when the kid was young and the husband (maybe) not yet cheating that she should teach herself about the routine financial and administrative transactions that happened in her household so that, if she found herself alone, her grief would not be exacerbated by this not knowing. I also remember her response, which was one of surprise and indignation – the situation was simply unimaginable to her. We both remember the many silly (and often expensive) purchases she made over the years.

I think there is a good case to be made about educating young girls and boys to be financially literate before they leave school. It would prevent countless women from sliding into poverty, as she is now doing. The wakeup call was the first visit to a food pantry. She’s still in shock and there is no visible exit out of this nightmare.

International health at home

My attendance at the GHC conference was very short. Everything was just warming up when I left. Still I got to listen to some very creative and inspiring speakers who use various internet and mobile technologies to promote or protect health. This is how I learned that of South Africa’s 45 million people 43 million have access to a mobile phone. I also heard the terribly sad story about how mothers in Nigeria who bought teething syrup laced with anti-freeze fluid unwittingly killed their babies. On the other hand, amazingly creative experiments are going on in Ghana to outsmart the makers and sellers of drugs that either don’t work or that kill. Listening to these stories makes you realize that we have, collectively, the ingenuity to constantly outsmart each other, for good and for evil.

The best part of the conference is the exhibit hall. If you like candy, pens, stress balls, pins you can stuff your pockets full, with or without listening to sales pitches. Some connections with global health are tenuous – there are travel agents and Toyota land cruiser salesmen.

The Gapminder people were there with their amazing displays of world population data. They demonstrated an electronic table top game that tested your demographic data knowledge for the countries of the world as if you were playing blackjack or poker, with chips and all.

But the best exhibit was from the condom people who took up an entire wall. There was a lube tasting bar, condom pin making, an informative video about condom making and testing (like filling them up with 32 liters of water – why that much, one wonders) – a manikin dressed in an outfit entirely made up of condoms, African cloth baggies to hide your condoms in and more. The playfulness is exactly what they want as total strangers strike up conversations about topics that are usually taboo. The money for these displays and this creativity comes from the UN, not the US government – not a surprise.

I arrived early at the airport. My taxi driver came from Ethiopia but seemed not very eager to talk about his country that I am to visit soon. He left 24 years ago when it was not such a nice place. At the airport I was served my order of pretzels by other Ethiopians, recent émigrés who were more enthusiastic about their country. The cost of a few pretzel sticks, a mustard dip and a pint of water would have provided an entire feast for countless people in their homeland.

I was early enough to catch the 3:30 flight but, despite my 425 dollar ticket I was not allowed on unless I paid a penalty for 50 dollars – which I stubbornly refused ‘out of principle’ only to punish myself with a considerably longer wait at the busy airport.

I arrived home to find the entire family, including Sita and Jim around the table and everyone commenting on the bug Sita had brought home from her travels. Since she looked a bit wilted we looked ORS up on Google and prepared the proven practice of home-made oral rehydration solution for her. Just before going to bed we watched a documentary about the Taliban nightmare in Pakistan; not surprisingly it produced some bad dreams.

Reunions

I am in Washington now, attending the annual gathering of professionals who in the field of international health. I left blue-skied and sunny Massachusetts yesterday morning to descend through layers of clouds and disturbed air that lasted all the way down to the runway at DC’s national airport. After the recent media reports about overtired and inexperienced pilots on regional airlines, I was happy to have boarded a national airline piloted by a chipper and bald-headed gentleman with many stripes on his uniform.

The taxi-driver who took me to the hotel had a serious tremor in his hand which frantically knocked now on the steering wheel, then on his thigh. I tried not to fixate on the hammering hand but it was hard. I wondered whether I should strike up a conversation, asking him ‘hey, what’s up with that hand?” but I did not. Instead I looked sideways to avoid seeing the shaking arm and hand and stared through rain-streaked windows, hoping I wasn’t witnessing the beginning of an epileptic seizure– it was the longest ride ever.

The annual Global Health Council is where I see friends and acquaintaines, onetime colleagues; some after one year, some after 15 or 20 years. It looks like a big conference but it is actually a small family – a dynamic one: coming in are the new graduates and MPH students, going (not exactly out) into retirement (or consulting) is the cohort about 10-15 years above me. I have accumulated enough friends, acquaintances and past colleagues that a quick traverse of the lobby is nearly impossible – but so much fun.

I attended a session organized by my colleagues and was pleased to see that the torch has been handed over to a confident and competent next generation of 30 somethings – all of them women. Kristen, who also belongs to that category, and I did our 3-hour session in the afternoon. It was well attended and a lot of fun to do – it was mostly experiential with a lot of moving around, small group inquiries that made the case of why we need to pay attention to people’s management and leadership skills. We were thanked afterwards about not lecturing tour audience. I’m glad they noticed. We might have been the only non-powerpointed event in the entire conference.

During the cocktail hour I served as an extra at a demo of our suite of virtual programs. We served wine and cheese which increased traffic substantially. An entire afternoon of standing left me in some pain – I am not entirely my old self despite what others see and what I tell them; the posterior tibial tendon/nerve mess at my right ankle, rarely problematic, was painfully apparent.

misc 003Dinner was a special reunion with Stephanie and Vince from Southern Africa who I had not seen in many years. Since there are no Japanese restaurants in Windhoek and it happens to be one of our favorite cuisines we ordered a large platter of sushi, sashimi and rolls and caught up for hours about kids, work and plans. After that I could not hold sleep at bay. I had, after all, been up since 3 AM.

Ready, set, grow

Memorial Day was one of those perfect 10+ days. We followed our usual Memorial Day routine but missed some of the festivities, like the wreath-throwing into Manchester Harbor because we had a bit of a late start; thus, instead of biking downtown we drove, parked the car and then walked across town past the very old cemetery where at least one person lies buried who was born in Amsterdam over a hundred years ago. There might be more Amsterdammers but most of the headstones are too weathered to read or broken.

We sat through the usual Memorial Day routine, including a rambling speech by one of the local clergy and the loud noises of the gun shots that salute the dead. This is a practice I don’t get. If it was through gun shots that most of these people perished, why honor them with what killed them?

Memorial Day in the US is very different from memorial day (Dodenherdenking) in Holland, which happens on May 4, the day before Liberation Day (of WWII). All day the flags would be half-mast and in the evening there would be a silent march, along a dark and tree-lined avenue to the enormous granite social-realist statue of a woman, gazing up (or down) with her arms crossed over her chest. (She still stands guard at the end of the lane at the beginning of a park, amidst enormous beech trees. When my mother died, now 10 years ago, we all walked over to this same statue, this granite mother of all mothers, and laid the flowers that had been sent to us at her feet.)

The 4th of May ‘march of remembrance’ would end with local notables laying a large wreath at the statue and 1 minute of silence. For many years, I would stand among dozens of fellow girl and boy scouts along the route, in uniform, holding a (real) torch while the townsfolk walked silently by. It was a somber ritual that was very meaningful to my parents’ generation, whose losses were, in the late 50s and early 60s still very raw.

For me the day was also my kid brother’s birthday and thus meant cake and decorations and a party where I, as the next older sister (but the youngest of the rest of the bunch), could play the role of older sibling and organizer of the games – and the next day, Liberation Day, was always off.

After the morning memorial ritual we went back home and spent the rest of the day reading, me Samantha Power about Saddam’s treatment of the Kurds and Axel about Rory Stewarts’s walk across Afghanistan. We ended the beautiful day with a cookout on the beach and the final plantings. We have never been this ready for the growing season, which officially started yesterday.

Toasting the ancestors

The cove this morning is no more than a puddle. I could have walked out into the middle to see whether the mussels are still there. This is always a surprise after a stormy winter. But there is a red tide warning out and even if I were to find mussels we could not eat them. So I might as well not know they are there.

I biked to Quaker Meeting yesterday, in between showers, and meditated on the topic of courage, leadings, openings and exits. Afghanistan is definitely a leading for me, an opening, not an exit. And so I shared it with my fellow Friends. If I go, they will hold me in the Light. I biked back with a light heart, evermore committed. I realize that I may not get the job if other more qualified people apply and I am committed to that outcome as well.

Axel put Tessa and Steve to work on getting the cellar, attic and porch ready for summer – it’s a big job that requires many arms and some heavy lifting. We were glad to have them around. In one day they completed chores that might have taken us weeks.

I focused on the gardening tasks. After planting the remaining vegetables (garlic, squash, broccoli, tomatillos) and digging up the last stray potatoes we drove to the cemetery to complete the annual ritual of getting the ancestors ready for Memorial Day. We do this with vodka: a thank you and a toast to their legacy, a few sips, followed by a sprinkling of the headstones (only of those who wouldn’t have declined a glass of vodka) with the holy water. On Penny and Herm’ headstone the liquid formed a map of Africa.

At the end of a the day we received a phone call from a tired and bored Sita waiting at JFK for the last (delayed) leg of her trip home from Jordan where she wants to buy a farm. We are glad she is safely back home and as enchanted with the Middle East as we are.

We dined at the house of our friends Gary and Christine and met Louise from Quebec who is a psychologist working with First Nations clients. We compared our work as psychologists in cultures that are not our own and found we had many things and interests in common. The only big difference between her work and mine is that she is paid by her clients, like the Cree or Iroquois, and directly accountable to them while I am accountable to the US government AND the government of the country I work in. Those agendas don’t always match. Third party consulting is my reality, a complex one, that is often unimaginable to people consulting in the private (for profit) sector.

Summer day

Bill and I had a passenger yesterday morning, Andrea, on our trip to Martha’s Vineyard. We like to go to Katama airfield as it is the only grass airstrip around and thus a good place to practice soft-field landings and take-offs. Bill flew outbound along a 9 nautical mile radius from Logan airport, low over the water. It was a nice front row seat from which to watch the big planes land and take off.

Further south we had to dodge some cells with bad weather. I was glad we had an IFR man in the plane although we never needed to go IFR. Behind the clouds we could see the Cape and the islands in the sun. By the time we landed summer had arrived on Martha’s Vineyard and the small breakfast restaurant at the airport was filled with holidaymakers as the English call them. A biplane two-seater for scenic rides and a fully saddled galloping horse (without rider) on the run kept me entertained while Bill and Andrea walked to the beach and back. Katama_05_23

I piloted us back west around Boston under sunny skies and executed a perfect landing, according to my passenger and coach, exactly at 2 PM when the plane was due back. I have nearly 70 hours in cross country time now. The flying is one thing that I would sorely miss if I were to go to Afghanistan for a year. Flying in a small plane at low altitude in Afghanistan would probably not be a good idea in a country with that many guns and trigger-happy men.

For once we completed most of our planting tasks before Memorial Day, including the graves of Penny and Herman, of Granny and Grampy Magnuson, of Paul and Phil. We took out the crocus and tulip bulbs and put in fresh soil and bright red geraniums. The DPW already had put in the American flags for our family’s warriors and everything is ready for the festivities on Monday. The only thing we did not do was the vodka ritual because we forgot to bring the drinks. If the sun shines again this evening we will make up for this and splash a few drops of vodka over the graves of those of our ancestors who liked to have a drink each day.

Back home we completed the spring ritual of bringing out the houseplants for the summer, trimming and cleaning them and finding them a spot in the shade. I am nearly done with the planting of our crops: the capucijners (Dutch grey peas), kouseband (foot-long green beans), bush beans and the Chinese peapods are in. All that’s missing is the basil and a place where various squash varieties can expand freely in all directions. Tessa promised she’d do the last two window boxes. 

Blackened beans

IMG_4436This morning I am drinking some more of the coffee that was brewed from the green Ethiopian beans Axel roasted yesterday on the camping stove outside in the yard. It was a good thing he was doing it outside because roasting coffee beans is a smoky affair and the first batch got heated a bit too much. There must be a use for the blackened beans, but not for coffee. The second batch came out beautiful and there is nothing like a cup brewed from these still warm and crispy coffee beans.

Although Axel presented me a list with things to do in and around the house, I withdrew with a book and offered my help if any of these things required more than two hands. It was, after all, the last day of my vacation. I promised to do chores over the long holiday weekend.

Having a vacation at home is an art; there is much interference from work that comes in by phone and email as well as endless chores on the home front. But travelling as much as I do, home is where I want to be.

I returned the book about the fragmentation of Afghanistan to the MSH library and picked up a new one for the remainder of my vacation (Samantha Power, A Problem from Hell). The half read books languishing at home in various piles near my bed, in my office and in the living room do get a little upset when I come back with a new one that is commanding all my attention. And it is – a set of essays about the most haunting abuses of power in recent history to which Shepard Fairey’s artwork forms a perfect backdrop.

To balance the heavy reading material with something lighter I did do some more planting: the blackberry bush has found a spot in the sun and the yellow daisies, surrounded by light blue lobelias, are standing guard by the front door. The snap peas are settling in nicely at the foot of the tallest asparagus which we are not allowed to cut anymore (it’s hard to let the yummy looking spears continue to grow into inedible plants). At least they will serve as a trellis for the peas which we will be allowed to eat as they appear.

All through the day an eager Chicha would place balls or sticks close to my feet, or on them, then backing up expectantly and ready to retrieve. Occasionally she will be distracted by a chipmunk and dash after the clever little thing in mad pursuit, never catching it. The chipmunks are too fast for her or hide in places she cannot get at.

Half and half

Yesterday was half vacation, half work, a fieldtrip into Boston. First stop was Shepard Fairey’s exhibit Supply and Demand at the (magnificently located) Institute for Contemporary Art. When you have completed the tour of the fourth floor you get so sit at the glassed in gallery looking out over Boston harbor, misc 005watching the planes take off and land at Logan and the boats come and go. I could have sat there for hours.

But we had a rendezvous with Tessa who had already ordered us the best sandwiches and pastries at the French bakery (Flour) in her upscale workplace neighborhood. We ate them in the sun under bright blue skies sitting on the boardwalk across from the Children’s Museum, surrounded by ducks and, of course, children.

Next stop was Chris’ and Kairos’ brand-new baby Maia who we found sound asleep in her laundry basket crib misc 010 misc 011
with her Japanese grandma watching over her. The Chinese grandma is probably waiting anxiously on the West Coast for her turn. I listened intently to the replay of the birthing ordeal. I am not sure whether Axel did as these stories are infinitely more interesting to women. We both admired the outcome – I got to hold Maia for most of the visit. We left her with a homemade yellow striped knitted tiger (or kittycat).

And that was the end of the vacation part of the day. I reported to my supervisor Alison for my annual performance review which we did in the sun on a picnic bench behind the building (I’m good). After that a meeting with Alain to talk about Afghanistan while Axel scoped out the ‘green’ house in Cambridge that Gary has rehabbed and which is on the market for a million and a half. For that you get a house within walking or biking distance from Harvard and MIT, four parking places, a small garden, 3 floors, 4 bedrooms, 3 bathrooms and a low ecological footprint. Axel is doing some of the marketing materials and needed to see the place for himself.

We drove back in bumper to bumper holiday weekend traffic that took us one hour and 45 minutes to get home. I was glad to have company and that Axel did the driving. As soon as we got home Axel and Steve headed to the Manchester Club for their thursday night dinner and all-male social. I turned around and drove to Gloucester for an event hosted by my friend Martha who hired me in 1986 for Planned Parenthood’s counseling and referral hotlines that, I hope, got many teens back on the rails or kept them from derailing altogether.

The topic for this awareness raising house party was sex education which is now named something else, for middle and high school students (‘Get Real’). The young PP’s Director of Education, who is about Sita’s age, spoke eloquently and which much passion about their efforts to help parents and kids talk about sex.

Gloucester was the center of attention last year because of alleged ‘pregnancy pacts’ among teenage girls. It was a perfect entry point for Planned Parenthood and its advocates who have been tirelessly working to get to the approval of the Get Real curriculum in the Gloucester school system – the vote is next month.

A young man of Tessa’s age, in a crisp white shirt, one year out of college, also an employee of PPLM, did his first public speaking as the resource mobilization man while his father was proudly watching him perform from the back of the room. The kid moved back in with the parents so he can afford to work in Boston, commuting an hour and a half to and from work each day. As it turned out, all the parents in the room who have adult kids have them living at home again – with high student loan debts, high housing/rent costs, this is now normal in this part of the world. Some mind, we don’t. And Tessa did pay for our lunch ysterday, which was not cheap.


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