Archive for May, 2009



Torn

After waiting for the usual time at the big orthopedic-industrial complex I handed over the MRI of my shoulder to the physician’s assistant. When I finally got to see the orthopede himself he gave me the bad-news good-news routine that I have gotten used to when speaking with orthopedic surgeons. I think they learn this trick in orthopedics school.

I will start with the bad – I have a large rotator cuff tear. I am not sure whether large qualifies the rotator cuff or the tear but the short end of the story is that it can only be fixed by having surgery and not doing anything will guarantee continued and increased pain in the movement of my dominant (right) arm.

The good part of the news, which also puts some urgency behind the surgery, is that the affected muscle is still in fairly good condition – good enough that it can be stretched and re-attached where it disconnected and recoiled. The surgery will be done via arthroscopy and involves placing anchors in the bone and re-attaching the muscle to where it needs to be. Four to six weeks in a sling and then more physical therapy is the prospect for this summer. I have tentatively scheduled the surgery for August 3.

There really is no good time to have your dominant arm out of commission, especially not in the summer, but if the Afghanistan job comes through, I’d better be fixed before I go. I can watch the run up and run off of the Afghan presidential elections while recuperating from surgery from the safety of my home.

Although yesterday was another vacation day – I am standing to lose a bunch if I don’t take them before June 30 – I did have to go through the annual (re)certification process that is required for anyone working on US government contracts. I had to promise not to ask for or give kickbacks, swear to my integrity in potential procurements and attest to ethical conduct at all time. It even required doing an online course that took about one hour and for which I received an excellent score; not perfect because I failed some of the trick questions, but more than good enough to pass as an ethical employee.

I finished the window boxes on the main house, leaving the studio boxes for Tessa to do this weekend. Our timing is perfect and the weather helped. It was 70 degrees yesterday and will be a steamy 90 degrees today. I have to plant a few more things in the main garden and then we can sit back and watch everything grow.

At the end of the afternoon I drove to Cambridge to have (Saudi Arabian) tea with pastries at Nuha. Her apartment is now nearly empty and a moving box served as our table. My colleagues Ashley and Jennifer came over from work and we got to see Nuha without her headdress since it was an all girl’s party. She looks older, wiser and more at ease with her long black hair flowing down her shoulders. We spent a couple of hours in girls talk – which is entirely different from conversation at a mixed party. I shared my newly acquired wisdom about the Y-chromosome story and found it the perfect topic for a girl’s party.

Nuha showed us her BU MPH diploma with great pride; she had two of them: one with both her father’s name and grandfather’s initial (M for Mohamed) and one without the M. I learned that for foreign students the name on the diploma has to be exactly the same as the name on one’s passport.

A day of leisure

Tessa probably doesn’t understand when she gets up at 5:30 that her ma-ma is up as well, even though she is on vacation. But my internal alarm clock is set at about 5 AM. This is no great feat when you go to bed early.

After Tessa and Steve leave for work I sit by the window overlooking a glorious Lobster Cove and the greenest of gardens and read some more in Rubin’s the ‘Fragmentation of Afghanistan.’ It is incomprehensible, the stupidity, greed, blind-sidedness and sheer incompetence that has messed up that country over the last 60 years when military technology has made fighting much more consequental.

While most countries focused on developing their human and social capital, in Afghanistan it has been reduced, literally, to rubble and stubble. That Y-chromosome, again! There are no females with any power in this drama, only victims.

The worst of it all is that many of the perpetrators, if not dead, are living elsewhere, far removed from the consequences of their action, some no doubt in great luxury, with full bank accounts, state pensions; others are heroes (alive or dead). Only those still living in Afghanistan, or areas bordering on Afghanistan, are daily confronted with the resulting mess.

I learned from MySpace that Mr. Kalashnikov sleeps well. He claims he has not profited from the sale of his famous AK-47 rifles and that he only receives a state pension (of about 80 dollars, for special services to the Motherland). He says that it’s not his fault things have gotten out of hand with his rifle. “It’s the politicians who are to blame for failing to come to an agreement and resorting to violence.” I discover that he really would have preferred to be famous for the design of agricultural machinery. I am sure many wished he had.

Tessa and Steve’s friends Sean, who works in his father’s Pittsfield bakery, wakes up after his friends are gone; it’s his day off. Despite his protestations I feed him breakfast: my homemade raisin bread that I made the other day, without raisins but with all the other dried fruit and nuts that survived the winter oatmeal routine.

Sean knows a thing or two about breads and always brings us several loaves, a kind act that determines what we eat the rest of the week. Sean says ‘like’ a lot, about every third word. I learn, in between these annoying ‘likes’ that he is hoping to get a noisy motorbike when his tax refund comes in. He promises that he will turn the motor off or at least not rev it he reaches our house when I tell him I can’t stand the sound of such bikes.

After he leaves I spend some time working on things that cannot wait followed by more reading, outside in the sun. It is a 10+ days with blue skies and birds chirping and trilling away. We decide to have lunch at home because no restaurant can compete with the view, and we can turn the leftover bass into a seafood salad that sits nicely on Sean’s bread – served with ice cold glasses of vinho verde.

In the afternoon we go on a shopping expedition for plants, herbs and veggies. This will be the project for today: kale, sprouts, Chinese cabbage, cilantro and many annuals for the window boxes.

After our first hamburger cookout of the season, and eating outside without mosquitoes (yet), Tessa and Steve withdraw inside their studo to watch a (the?) hockey game. Axel and I drive into town to listen to author Andre Dubus III read from his work in progress, an ‘accidental autobiography’ at the community center. One person asks how one knows if one is a writer. “When you cannot help yourself and have to write each day,” is his answer.

In stages

It’s a relief that the cat is out of the bag about my intention to live in Kabul for a year or so. Writing daily in a public blog without mentioning the momentous decision making process with all its ups and downs that is going on in the background was hard; but I was not ready to share this with the world. Now I am. Since the thought first occurred to me I have gone through the change cycle that I teach others and that is based on Elizabeth Kubler Ross’ work.

First comes the denial (“What? Me? Kabul? Impossible!”); then comes the phase of resistance with all its emotions, spine shivers and all that. So far the idea seems farfetched and part of me wants to draw back to the comfortable status quo. But there is also something pulling hard at me. I remember going through this phase late April, while in Kabul. I would be looking at the picture that serves as the header of my blog with Axel picking mussels. Give that up? Go to a country that has no ocean? Being restricted in our movements? A potential war zone?

After each of those ‘outings’ to things I would have to give up (or feared) there was a stronger pull that whispered to me about challenges, and making contributions, travelling less, being more with Axel, being able to deep dive rather than skim. And so I moved into the next stage, that of exploring new possibilities. It is then that I started talking with Alain, Axel, Alison (you start with the A’s) and heard their views on pros and cons.

Since Axel was let in on the secret a few weeks ago he is going through his own cycle. The most wonderful thing was that he did not say ‘no’ right away (although he was freaked out a little when I was going a little too fast). This too is what I teach others about change – watch out when you have passed the denial and resistances stages and are ready to explore – others may not be right behind you yet and be freaked out by your speed. They may get deeper into resistance.

And yesterday I arrived at the final stage, which is that of commitment: the application submitted, letting people know, and thinking about a trip to Kabul with Axel so he can start exploring himself.

People are supportive and excited – especially at work, where there are people who have lived ‘in the field’ as we say. They understand this tension between skimming and diving, seeing results from your work up close and working slowly at bringing about deep and lasting change rather than tinkering at the surface.

Of course I don’t have the job yet – it is possible that someone with even more of a leg-up applies – but the chances are good and so the application and offer is made with that in mind – a momentous decision rather than a cavalier move. Stay tuned!

Moves

More gardening yesterday, despite the rain – it’s a good time to put things in the ground. We bought squash, tomatoes, tomatillos, cucumbers and some annuals at Tendercrop Farms in Newbury. Being that close to Chuck and Anne, innkeepers at the Water Street Inn in Newburyport, we stopped by to see them and check out how they and the inn are doing. They are noticing the economic down turn as well and for the first time have plenty of openings for this summer.

I missed the BU graduation, and thus did not get to see Nuha in her graduation robes. I thought I had already missed it last week, having extended my stay in Kabul. She will be moving back as an MPH to Saudi Arabia soon. I will miss her. We never got to do all the flying that we had imagined. I have a standing invitation to go camping with her in the desert. It’s on my list of destinations.

Our Canadian guests, Steve’s cousin Andrew and his girlfriend Britney, drove back to Ontario early this morning after a whirlwind weekend tour of Cape Ann under the expert guidance of Tessa. We celebrated Andrew’s 21st birthday last night with a 1000 calorie cheesecake from the cheesecake factory, decorated, as if it needed more calories, with crushed snickers bars and whipped cream. It was his choice of course. snickers_cheesecake

But the really big news today is that I submitted my application for a job in Kabul on our Afghanistan project as Technical Director for Management and Leadership. If get it, it means Axel and I will move to Kabul in September. We should know in about a month whether I got the job or not.

Bitten and smitten

I got my first mosquito bite of the season. It produced a huge welt on my forehead, as if someone had hit me with a baseball bat. It will serve as an inoculation against the many bites that will follow.

It was a mosquito that lived at the airport of Orange, MA, where Bill and I landed in the middle of the morning. It was a glorious blue sky kind of day, without wind, perfect for parachuting which is taught and practiced there. We watched the sky divers for a while; a wonderful sight as they twirled downward with their brightly colored parachutes. A grey haired gentleman stood by the fence intently watching the plane circling upwards for another round of jumping. I asked him whether he wanted to do that himself self and he answered yes in a way that indicated this was an impossible dream. Sigh.

I never felt a great desire in my adult life to do this kind of jumping although Axel and I did jump of a mountain in the French Alps, some years ago, on the back of our instructors. But somehow that’s different from jumping out of a plane at 5000 feet.

As a child I had a poster by my bedside that was developed by the Dutch dairy industry (or may be the Dutch Ministry of Public Health) to increase milk consumption by kids. Every time I drank a glass of milk I was allowed to cross off a small white glass in rows and rows of such glasses. Around the edges of the poster were pictures of various professionals with glasses of milk in their hands. There were only very few pictures of women in the poster (the nurse, the sales girl and the teacher) but one stood out: a young woman in a skydiving outfit. She became my heroine. I wanted to be like her and I drank all my milk to make that happen. Sometime during adolescence I lost that fervor and skydiving lost its appeal.

Bill and I took off from Beverly airport under special VFR because of the wall of clouds coming our way from the ocean. Westwards all was clear and sunny but we had to get through the wispy clouds and so I got to experience flying under stricter rules. Since it was new to me Bill did all the radio work. On the way back Bill had to request IFR clearance to land at Beverly and I was happy he was the pilot. I had already decided that an instrument rating is not something I am eager to do quite yet, and yesterday’s landing confirmed that; too complicated, and too much work.

In between the departing and arriving at Beverly I did a few landings at Gardner. This remains a tense experience for me, especially when I come in too fast and too high – but with coach Bill by my side (and Arne earlier) I have been doing pretty decent landings at my former crash site.

I made my usual phone call to Axel (‘the eagle has landed’) and drove home to see him mow the grass with his new machine as if it was actually fun (and fast). And then we drove to Gloucester to pick up a present for Molly and Brandon who were re-celebrating their marriage, about a year after the original ceremony – for friends and family in their old stomping ground of Salem. We picked a book of children’s stories by Virginia Lee Burton (from Folly Cove Designers fame) not knowing that a baby is on its way. We spent the evening with them, family and friends at the magnificent Hawthorne hotel in downtown Salem to celebrate unions, friendships and new life.

Pushing time

I am pushing the ending (mostly) and the starting times (hardly)of the day further out. I go to bed a little later each day and get up before anyone else does. It is vacation and weekend so starting the day a little later is better.

Yesterday morning I witnessed the arrival time of two travelers from Canada, Steve’s cousin and his girlfriend, who had travelled through the night westwards over the Upstate NY Thruway and the Mass Pike. When they arrived Lobster Cove was waking up and at its best: chirping birds, fragrant lilacs and lilies of the valley, a quiet cove and a deep blue sky– there is no better place to arrive after 12 hours in a car.

After they went to bed Steve left for work, Tessa settled in for work in her studio and I have no recollection of what I did after that. The only thing I have to show for yesterday is a slightly emptier emailbox, the new crown, a few less kinks in my muscles, a pile of Afghan shirts hemmed and thus now less likely to unravel in the wash, and the potatoes and lettuce in the ground.

In the process of planting we found some of the potatoes I had missed in my search last fall by their newly sprouted leaves. If we had had these potatoes for dinner our meal would have been entirely from our own land (and water): the striped sea bass Axel caught on Wednesday, arugula salad and potatoes.

And now it is time to sort out where Bill and I are flying to this morning.

Sleepy

I have been alerted by a faithful reader that I skipped an entry for today. I didn’t think there was much to say after the excitement of Afghanistan, the ski slope of Dubai and Dutch cheese.

Who cares that I had a new crown put in this morning, followed by an exquisite Abi massage (compliments of Axel) and then lobster salad for lunch on the terrace of the new restaurant in town?

But the salad was too much and I feel bloated and sleepy. Axel says that I should get up and walk and exercise but my body wants to sleep. I have been up since 5 AM so I think I am entitled to a nap. I’ll let Axel put the potatoes in while I rest my eyes for awhile.

New England spring

New England spring can compete with Kabul spring – it’s just a little behind. It was wonderful to come home. Axel led me around the yard to see what had changed since I left. I ate asparagus right out of the asparagus bed –it doesn’t need any cooking. The garden is ready for the potatoes and chard; the parsley that survived the winter is already twice as big and the broccoli, also a survivor can be eaten right out of the garden as well.

We went for a walk, got a demo of Axel’s new high-powered toy (a second hand lawn mower), unpacked the presents (many of Tessa’s rings did not fit her), aired the two carpets, had dinner and I went to bed at 7 PM. While I was asleep Axel got a striper and Chicha had her first fishing experience which brought out the wild Dingo in her.

This morning the day is even more beautiful than yesterday. It’s great to be back home.

Smooth

So far it has been smooth sailing. The only mishap is a broken nail from picking up my suitcase the wrong way. No lines in Dubai for checking in, a half full plane with empty seats beside us – a good night sleep, no turbulence and a smooth landing ahead of schedule.

We took the bus from Schiphol to the Aalsmeer flower auction, the biggest in the world. Steve had no idea what happens behind the scenes to get flowers from Kenya, Colombia or Israel to our neighborhood florist. Now he knows.

The auction buildings cover acres of space with 1000s of trolleys and hundreds of buyers racing against a clock so everything is bought, bagged and shipped to wherever the buyers are in the shortest amount of time possible. It’s a mindboggling logistics wonder.

Sietske picks us up at the auction and takes us home where Steve is treated to a spectacular breakfast of good Dutch bread, two kinds of cheese, fresh eggs , and thick creamy yogurt. We park Steve in the room where the orphaned ducklings are parked for the night (too cold without a mother duck) so he can rest from the long walk through the auction and a sleepless night in the plane. I take care of other stuff and drinks one cup of coffee after another , produced by Sietske’s fancy espresso machine.

Everything is in full bloom here. The lilacs and wisteria already finished and early summer flowers are out. I can’t wait to see our budding lilacs and that last asparagus.

Hot and cold

Steve counts the number of check-points from our guesthouse to our assigned seats in the plane. There are 18 for males, fewer for females – we are not frisked as often. The only real security check was done by people from UAE, quite thorough compared to all the previous Afghan ‘checks.’ The latter are essentially forms of employment and opportunities for bribes.

The UAE check is a new step in the process, at the very end when we have already boarded a bus thinking that we are going to the plane. But we are not. We are taken to the new terminal that has not opened yet, even though it should have, months ago. While we stand in line, dogs are led into our bus – bomb sniffing dogs – this is not an agricultural inspection. I like it, although I wonder why the dogs look so skinny. I can see their ribs. In this country dogs are usually not man’s best friend.

While I sat in on the staff meeting of the general directorate for health I heard about an imminent campaign against dogs – there are many cases of rabies reported and the ministry has to act. The department chief in charge of this operation has been working with the Kabul municipal authorities to get the campaign organized. He lists the resources they need: plastic bags, gloves and strychnine as well as a bunch of vehicles. The dog catchers will swarm out over the city all at once and drive the stray dogs into corners. That is, I suppose where the strychnine is administered. I try to imagine the operation, the many dead dogs and the strychnine – it has all the makings of a good detective story.

The pilot of the plane is from Denmark and I must admit it made me feel better. He does turn right after takeoff and circles to gain altitude – as he should. The views are spectacular – blue skies and snow-covered mountains everywhere, range after range, reaching into the far corners of Central Asia.

A taped message in Arabic is played before we take off. I understand enough to know that it’s a prayer, asking for God’s protection. I hope it covers us infidels as well – we are after all in the same boat so to speak. In English we are simply greeted – hello, welcome aboard, hope you have a nice journey, thank you for flying Safi Airways.

The pilot tells us that the temperatures in Dubai are between 30 (early morning) and 40 (mid-day) degrees. I am slowly peeling off layers and headscarves – in the UAE they don’t seem to mind the look of female skin.

We drop our baggage off at the luxurious hotel and take a taxi to the creek where we board one of the countless small ferries to my favorite restaurant that is built over the water on the other side. It’s hot but the breeze keeps us comfortable. After lunch we take a taxi to the Emirates Mall where we check out the ski slope – a truly bizarre place full of pricy eating establishments and ice cream stores. One is called ‘the marble slab’ – predicting where you will end up if you eat too much of their ice-cold confections.

You can watch the ski fun from the bottom of the slope, the middle and the top depending on which floor you are at. If you want to get onto the slope you have to pay a considerable amount of money, don a rented ski suit (it’s cold on the slopes) and put on rented snow or ski boots. There’s even a store that sells skis, snowboards, ski clothes and other cold weather stuff next to the entrance.

The entrance fee is lower if you only want to wander around at the bottom of the slope and watch the small kids slide around. We spot a woman who wears a black burka over a bulky winter coat, complete with black headdress, a reminder that we are deep inside the Arab world.


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