Archive for December, 2009

Loud noises

If we had not known that it was the last day of the year and that we were in Holland we would have imagined that we were in Afghanistan. In this over-regulated country, fireworks cannot be lit until 10 AM on the last day of the year but then the explosions start as if there is no tomorrow.

It sounded like small arms fire and bombs going off – a little unsettling. People think that Holland is so very emancipated and the youth so responsible but we saw otherwise. Youngsters from one of the most God-fearing villages in Holland were lighting fireworks left and right while smoking cigarettes (dope may be?) and drinking alco-pops straight from the bottle, althewhile scaring the bejesus out of us with their gun powder.

We arrived, me rested, Axel not, from Northwest Airlines’ last flight from Boston to Amsterdam under the NWA label; the end of an era.

It took us forever to get into our rental car. First we needed coffee, then we went to get cheese sandwiches (broodje met kaas) from the Schiphol supermarket. Then Axel discovered we had left one of our suitcases on the luggage carrousel and so he had to get back into the inner sanctum of airplane travelers and retrieve it, just before it was put into the bin of abandoned luggage.

And then we realized I had emptied my Dutch bank account to help Sita scrape together a down payment for a house in Western Massachusetts, which required an internet transaction which required a few more activities on the computer. Everything was part of a chain of self-generating tasks that made we wonder if we’d still have a car waiting at the rental place by the time we’d make it to the Budget rental counter.

Armed with a rented Tom-Tom GPS system we finally made it out into Holland and to Barneveld to see my brother Reinout and his soulmate Joke. She kept feeding us, one thing after another, until we were driven out of the house for a long walk to shed some of the calories acquired, in weather as cold and frigid as what we left behind in New England.

We drove further east (and found Holland covered in snow and ice) to our New Year’s Eve destination, my other brother Willem and his wife Jet. They treated us to more wine and food than was good for us while outside the explosions continued. We couldn’t help think of Afghanistan at each loud sound but here it is about joy over endings and new beginnings; we’ll drink to that and the hope that all eyes and ears will be still intact when 2010 arrives. Happy new year!

Leaving

An airport lounge entry again; if we had tried to leave yesterday we would not have made it out because of the heavy winds. The people on that flight were standing next to us at check in, trying again to get to Holland or beyond. Such luck!

The shippers came in the morning and in no time all the loose things that were on the ‘for-Kabul’ table had disappeared into nine or ten boxes that weighed in at about 600 pounds, including the rowing machine and enough books to see us through a long spell of grounding in Kabul.

We visited one more set of relatives and then celebrated the completion of a wonderful week with the girls and their men at a local restaurant, my one and only chance at lobster, before heading for the airport.

There was much left undone, mostly visits and a few phone calls, given that we won’t be back for another 6 months, but when time’s up, it is up.

It feels familiar to be on the road again and not at all like vacation because travel has never been for vacation purposes, always for work. It’s nice to be travelling with Axel though, despite the fact that we won’t be sitting together once again – I got pushed to seat 3A in the front, leaving Axel behind on 21H. I offered my business class seat to him (he’s older and has a bad back) but he declined. Maybe he is holding out for the next leg, from Amsterdam to Dubai (fat chance, KLM isn’t that generous).

And so we are closing this chapter and on to the next and the new year. I will get to reflect on this year on the plane over to Amsterdam.

Wedding plans

The ice cold and relentless wind made me look forward to Dubai. But first there is the appointment with the shipper and making sure everything we want in Kabul gets included. The only things we did not get was Scrabble and Pictionary, both standing as symbols for wholesome family fun when not too tired or not computering in our Kabul home.

We claimed out Christmas gift from Sita, two sets of warm lambskin slippers, and to hang out with DJ for a bit. For this we had to brave the even icier wind on the Rockport shore. We took a hot coffee/cocoa break before making it back to the car, to Manchester and various engagements.

We discussed Sita and Jim’s wedding, 9 months from now, over a lasagna dinner with both sets of Jim’s parents and one of his siblings; none the wiser were we even after the coconut cream pie was finished, but all in good spirits. Sita and Jim are mobilizing their friends to make it a low cost, green and memorable event. We have no worries about it – our Magnuson reunion tent, a few port-o-potties and Lobster Cove as a backdrop, how can we go wrong?

We will continue the conversation 6 months from now when we get back to Lobster Cove for our first Stateside R&R. That seems a long way off.

Last calls

Departure is already in sight but there is much to do: family and friends to visit, more appointments for various body parts, shopping and getting our shipment ready for pick up by the shipping company on Wednesday morning, all the while trying to vacation with one more week to go.

This morning I got certified as a bona fide traveler who can enter the country by simply swiping one of my two passports in a kiosk. I should have had this during my intense travel schedule in and out of the US, travelling on my own; now Axel has to stand in line while I bypass the lines and then wait for him later.

I swung by the MSH office on the off chance of finding some colleagues and friends to wish them happy new year and found some indeed; a few pregnant, others ready to retire and the rest at the same place and in the same condition as I last saw them. It felt odd to be at the office which is no longer my place of work. There are no regrets.

The rest of the day was dreary and cold and bets used to take care of some last minute shopping, gifts for the guards back at our house in Kabul, some starter toys for the daycare center that may start soon at our office and the missing warm clothes for the remainder of Afghanistan’s cold winter.

Sita, who has become a vegetarian after Copenhagen, cooked us a wonderful veggie stir fry. She has also sworn never to use the dryer again and now our basement is draped with clothes that are trying to get dry. You have to duck a lot when walking around there.

We ended the day playing one of Tessa’s new games, something about apples, that kept us entertained for the remainder of the evening while Jim multi-tasked, cooking our evening meal for tomorrow with his family which will also be our goodbye dinner for the next 6 months.

Here and there

I don’t live here anymore, I think, while cleaning up the kitchen early Sunday morning, putting things people have left where they last used them, into the places they belong. It is an odd experience being guest in your own house and a little unsettling. What used to be my office, and where I had expected to be making the piles for the shipper to pack up for Kabul, has been made into Tessa’s and Steve’s computer room. I don’t live there anymore.

Our room is the barn with all the space we need; actually it is perfect for making the piles I had in mind. We can take 1000 pounds which is, apparently about 25 boxes of stuff. I couldn’t imagine what I would fill 25 boxes with but now I am sweeping through the bookcases, the stacks of DVDs and the discarded kitchen equipment in the basement and the boxes are filling up. A wok would be nice; we have, for the first time in 20 years a gas stove and can actually use it – a new cook training project for Axel.

With everything that I put on the Kabul pile I ask myself, would I mind if I never saw that back again? It is one way of clearing your house of unnecessary stuff.

Outside the cove is churning with foam covered swells that hit the beach angrily. A warm winter storm is hitting us and melted most of the snow, revealing the dirt and mud of the septic system construction project; this is more familiar than the picture perfect white Christmas landscape that we found on arrival. This is more like Kabul.

We are snug in our camp space with our heating pad below us and the small stove flicking on and off to keep the temperature inside comfortable and even.

We are now midway in our stay here, as much ahead ad behind us and we have to think very judiciously how to use the remaining time well so that when we leave there are no regrets.

Leftovers

December 26 is, traditionally, leftover day. We shared our turkey leftovers with Anne and Chuck and Edith and Hugh who brought their own leftovers (salmon bisque and Christmas cookies). We sat around the table and caught up while nibbling at all the dishes set out before us, including Brazilian leftovers from yesterday’s spectacular spread at Steve’s brother who married into a family of Brazilian cooks. He is both lucky and it shows.

We visited Sula and Jacek whose parents lived in Kabul in the 1950s where he was helping to get Ariana airlines of the ground. They have hundreds of slides from that time, and a promise to show these to us one day. Not today as they were getting ready to leave for Scotland.

I have been knitting on an off. I bought several skeins of interesting yarn and knitting as much as I do is proof that i am really on vacation. I produced a third batch of baby booties that I can now knit in my sleep. Before I leave I have to show Sita how to make them so that she can stop making scarves, something she has been doing for years in spite of the multiple knitting books I have gifted her for Christmas. Her friends are starting to have babies so this would be a little more practical than scarves.

I am now walking around with a mindmap in my pocket of the things that we want to put in our shipment. They are, and have to be, objects that we won’t mind losing in the case of a quick exit/evacuation but that would add a little to our comfort while in Kabul.

The shipper comes on Tuesday to pack us up which means that sometime between now and then we have to make a trip to the shopping mall, a scary thought for someone who has managed to avoid the entire Christmas shopping season.

Endless

Things did come together, as they always seem to do and showing once more that traditions are hard to break. Our Christerklaas celebration started at midnight, as it always does. Axel took a four hour nap which made it possible to be up about half the night, while Sita and Jim had a Christmas dinner and Steve, Tessa and I worked on our poems and packaging of the gifts.

We were done around 3:30 in the morning and tumbled into a deep sleep on our preheated bed. Christmas morning, later, we continued with what was left under the tree before tackling the task of cooking our Christmas dinner, together. Tessa and Steve had planned the meal: turkey cooked under cover of maple soaked bacon, cranberry compote made from the cranberries that Axel picked in October, just before heading out to Kabul, creamed onions, mashed potatoes, ginger almond green beans, carrots and squash.

For desert Tessa had brought a Buche de Noel from the fancy bakery near her old job – it tasted as perfect as it looked. We missed Sita and Jim for our Christmas dinner because of yet another family engagement – both our daughters have found men who come from families that split up which multiplies the number of dinners that require their presence.

And now we are off for a late after dinner Christmas celebration in central Massachusetts where Steve’s mom and sister are visiting his brother and his family. So Christmas is not quite over.

Guest at home

Between the two of us we had many maintenance and repair appointments for our first 48 hours home: shoulder, teeth, blood work, hair and stomach, the first appointment only hours after we landed. There will be more after the holidays are over and before we head on to our next stop on this short vacation, Holland. But first there has to be Christmas.

Each appointment required waiting in rooms with piped in Christmas music – bad luck meant that the consultation rooms were also exposed to the music. I am glad that after tomorrow this will be over. In fact, I noticed the stores have already moved on the Valentine’s Day; the red and green being replaced by red in pink.

It’s strange to be home but to be there as a guest. We are now staying in the barn across the driveway. Sita and Jim lived there for a year after our accident, then Tessa and Steve, for a year and some months and now us. Our house is no longer our house. Tessa now makes the rules, which includes ‘shoes off’ just like in Kabul.

Her present to us is the newly painted bathrooms: orange gold downstairs and a bright new coat of kelly green upstairs. It will be a nice home to come back to, whenever that will be.

We sleep on a mattress on the floor of a structure that isn’t meant for sleeping in the winter. There is only our mattress and a think wooden floor between us and the cold winter air underneath. Before we went to bed we ventured out into the crowded shopping mall to get an electric pad to preheat the bed; this was easier than buying a bed frame on the day before Christmas, and it did the job, I hardly remember going to bed except that it was warm.

Walking outside and taking the car to drive wherever we want is an untold freedom, a luxury that we took for granted before moving to Afghanistan. After 3 months of being chauffeured around, driving myself is fun and familiar, as if I haven’t been away that long.

Sita and Jim drove halfway home to Western Massachusetts to celebrate Christmas with his sister and husband. We were supposed to come along but that plan turned out to be entirely unrealistic as Axel is taking a nap and I am struggling to make the Christerklaas rhymes for our celebration that is supposed to start at midnight. I am not at all sure how everything will come together in time, the muse has not arrived yet and it doesn’t feel anything like Sinterklaas or Christmas. But it is surely nice to be home.

Nearly there

I slept from Dubai till Belorus, and then again from Riga till the Norwegian coast and finally from Iceland till Montreal.

Axel was sitting someplace else in the plane and did not sleep much; he had slept in our fancy Dubai hotel after a delicious Japanese dinner and, unlike me, did not board the plane in a state of half sleep.

He had also made the mistake of eating some of the very spicy Indian food that was served in the Delta lounge. I think his gurgling stomach kept him awake; probably not a bad thing I was sitting someplace else.

The last three hours of the ride were the longest. Doing the long 16 hour flight only makes sense if you can get an upgrade to the business class pods. When we return we will fly via Holland, this breaks the trip into more manageable segments.

I gave my upgrade for the last leg of the trip to Axel as an early Christmas present since he did not emerge from the Dubai flight quite as rested as I did and was suffering from back pain.

I am posting this high up in the sky, on the Atlanta to Boston plane thanks to Delta’s wifi campaign that is trying to get me hooked on staying connected all the time, now for free but later for a fee. I think I can live without it but it is nice to read all the emails from Kabul and knowing I don’t have to respond to any. I am on vacation and deleted most of them.

Good stuff

Enjoying our newly acquired freedom of simply walking around on the streets we spent hours exploring Dubai’s souks: the spice souk, the gold souk, the fabric souk, the pashmina souk, the electronic souk and the just-stuff souk.

We watched the stuff being loaded and unloaded along the creek on or from gigantic and rickety looking dhows, some with their center of gravity precariously high. We hope they either unload or don’t encounter rough seas. We surprised the Iranian crew of one of the dhows by addressing them in our halting Farsi once we knew their nationality.

We marveled at the mild weather of Dubai. It reminded me of the temperatures of my childhood summers in Holland, a pleasant 70 degrees. This was definitely a whole lot better than the 110 degrees during our July visit which made walking around an act of insanity.

We ate fried shrimp and fish in a small outdoor cafe along the creek, enjoying our first seafood in months, and sipped our fresh mango and coconut juices. Today was truly a first day of vacation.

We’ll treat ourselves to a nice dinner before heading to the airport to settle into our cramped quarters in the back of the plane for our 16 hour flight to Atlanta.


December 2009
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