Sylvia's Journal

Monsieur Eli came to pick us up at 8:30 and after an hour of dodging traffic and being stuck dropped us off at the National Museum. Much of what we saw there had come from Byblos, which didn’t get to keep its treasures.

The museum is an imposing ode to all the major civilizations that at one time or another dominated the Mediterranean Sea coast. But given how much happened here in the millennia before and after Christ the paucity of the displays is surprising. Not just in numbers but also in the explanations for uninformed visitors like us.

The museum has no toilet. I could just hear the builder say, when all was done, ‘oops.’ A container is installed near the gate for that purpose. It is surrounded by antique debris such as sarcophagi, pillars, mosaics, lying all jumbled together in the triangle that is formed by the museum, the street and the toilet container.

We decided to forego the American-Palestinian artist’ installation that Birgit was reviewing for a story. We were too hungry and instructed Monsieur Eli to find us a place in the mountains for our 3rd fantasy lunch.

This took some work on our side as Monsieur Eli seemed to ignore the major spec: a view. He tried a few other spots that had that one element missing, no view. Eventually we all agreed he had found the place, The Balcony, perched several thousands feet above the Mediterranean and serving everything that Lebanon is famous for.

We were treated like royalty. This included the assumption that cost was not an issue. Or maybe it was because the tourist season has not started yet and the Maitre d’ wanted to try out his new line: he served us everything he had and more, hauling in new beer and wine bottles as soon as the bottom was in sight. For the third day in a row lunch was enough to see me through the night without dinner. Once again our lunch also served as dinner. Once again it was a fantasy lunch.

Finally we went to our day’s destination: the Jeita grottos. First by teleferique, then by foot, then by miniature train, then by boat we explored several layers of the gigantic grotto with its high ceilings and invisible depths. In between we saw an organic extravaganza of things rising and dripping and falling, gravity defying Mother Nature installations that made you believe in God as an accomplished Artist.

On our way back we took the Jounieh teleferiqie that whisks you quickly from sea level to the commanding base of the statue of Our Lady of Lebanon. It wasn’t quite Jim’s cup of tea as he doesn’t like heights but he’s a trooper and came along anyways.

Back in Beirut we walked on Bliss Street, in honor of Jim who still doesn’t know whether this Mr. Bliss is a relation, had crepes, explored the Hamra area and then celebrated our being together this week with a pint in the Mayflower Hotel bar, where I arrived as a young bride 33 years ago.