Archive for November 5th, 2010

Fantasyland

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I am back in fantasy land. After a very fast and smooth exit from Afghanistan and similarly fast and smooth entry into the UAE (even though ‘the systems were down’), I found Axel in shorts and T-shirt waiting for me at the foot of the Dubai Marina Heights Tower. We are lodged at the 33rd floor in a ‘vacation-rental-by-owner’ apartment, together with our friends Chuck and Anne.

The apartment complex is surrounded by others, each with their own peculiar architectural markings, a spa and sport complex at the 5th floor, inside, and two pools (wading and lap) on the outside. I felt very exposed in my very decent black bathing suit that was quite a contrast to the barely clad young women sunning themselves in on lounges.

Across the marina is a half-completed skyscraper that looks like the crooked house of the crooked woman on crooked lane. We are deeply into fantasy land, or, as someone explained it, architectural practicum 101.

We were invited to join our friends at a birthday party for Chuck’s sister in law who lives here with her husband/his brother at the top of the rotating Hyatt Regency. In about one hour our views had circled the city and we were back where we started except for our full, very full, bellies. I usually don’t go for seconds but the buffet was too elaborate to limit to a single visit.

Everyone is taking a nap now, recovering from lunch. It is dark and Dubai and Sharjah are flickering near and far. When the temperature falls below 25 everyone comes out and celebrates the good life. I suspect that it is here that the taste for money, a lot of money, is acquired because there is much to spend it on and there is never enough. I wonder how much of the real estate we are seeing is owned by Afghan warlords and poppy growers, and how much of that are my tax dollars at work.

Between two worlds

I wrote my entry for today in the plane, high above Iran, going from one world to another. I had much time to read.

After some 300 pages in Obama’s Wars the president still hasn’t made the speech to the American people about the troop commitment to Afghanistan of about a year ago. He is still meeting for hours, and watching military powerpoints. It is fascinating, though utterly confusing, to read about the discussions in the American military-political stratosphere, high above the clouds for someone who is living far below the clouds, with everything above my head opaque.

Over the last year we have been summoned more than once to the embassy compound to hear then this then that strategy, with all the new vocabulary that goes with it. It was always communicated to us, by civilians. With Woodward’s revelations about the skirmishes between the military brass and the Obama entourage I realize that the opaqueness was effective – little did we know.

One sign that the consensus was fragile at best were the frequent changes of what was important. Were we trying to eliminate the Al Qaeda leadership? Defeating or disturbing the Taliban? Which Taliban? There was COIN (Counter Insurgency) combined or not with nation building (no-nos for Obama because it can’t be done anytime fast), then Quick Impact, to be realized according to a sequence of commands: clear, hold, build, transfer.’ I think there was a fifth command but we didn’t have time to learn the words by heart. All I remember was that our part in this strategy concerned the building and transferring.

Sometime in March and April we were all ordered to look at some 80 districts along the ‘ring around Afghanistan’ in an attempt to promote the free movements of goods and help the economy by liberating and securing the districts along this road.

For us that meant assisting the district health officers wherever they existed to better manage health care delivery so that the population would notice that the government cared – a tall order that turned out to be misguided since the government is not only perceived to be corrupt, large parts of it are.

In the end we never got the exact numbers of where to put our efforts and now the districts are out of focus again and many so unsafe we couldn’t even go there if we wanted. Still, a district health assessment, considered urgent some 9 months ago, is close to being commissioned. We are always a running a little behind what Washington orders.

With each new strategy or tactic new words were introduced which made everyone scurry back to their computers to make new powerpoints and present the reality, perceived or for real, using the new words and trying to make them real, precise and practical using new diagrams and new flow charts. Luckily reality is entirely malleable and luckily we have powerpoint and armies of translators (many of them doctors who make better salaries that way) to come up with the right Dari and Pashto words.


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