Sylvia's Journal

As medical tourists we are exquisitely taken care of by Caroline and her colleague Asia from SOS International. We are one of their projects for this and next week but you’d think we are their only project. They schedule our appointments, tell us about the procedures, what to expect, not to do.

For years I have carried the SOS International card with me and MSH paid its fees. I never had to use it. Now I am learning what they are really about, service, awesome service.

Today was the one day this week that we did not have any medical appointments and so we set out to explore more of the city and its thin history.

We took the spotless metro into town enjoying the high ride across what is called refrigerator alley – the Sheik Zayed multi-laned highway that goes from Dubai to Abu Dhabi and that is lined with the weirdest looking skyscrapers.

We picked up the Red Bus at one of the shopping centers that make you think you are in New York and descended at the restored Maktoub palace at the edge of the Creek.

The before and after pictures reminded me of the Murad Khani restorations in Kabul – here someone also saw beauty in what was utterly decayed. The spectacularly restored palace with its summer and winter rooms, its wind towers for natural airco was filled with pictures of the olden days.

Old is not very old here – going back at most two generations. In fact, some pictures were from the 70s when I was in Yemen. The Dubai from then was very much like North Yemen in the 70s. The transformation that happened here is phenomenal (whether you approve or disapprove) and it left me wondering, what happened here and what did not happen in Yemen?

We are starting to ask taxi drivers that question. The answers are very consistent: leadership, or maybe more specifically, enlightened leadership; leadership without greed or coming from a small ego, insecurity, a bully complex or what not. It appears to be leadership from someone with wealth, status and the weight of a power dynasty behind him; no need for games.

I noticed that females were entirely missing from the pictures – except for the room that was called ‘socio-cultural.’ It contained young girls dressed up to the nines after the celebration of their graduation from Quran school. All the others contained only pictures of the ruling elite, from young eager boys handling their falcons to old wizened rulers with their hands on their djambiyas, the crooked dagger that they carry right below their bellies, just as in Yemen.

Axel and I went apartment hunting. The day after his operation, and the day before mine, our current apartment lease ends and we need a new place to stay. We walked round Bur Dubai looking for short stay apartment rentals. Young Philippina or Pakistani clerks, eager to sign us on, showed us around.

We are staying in tonight, having food brought up (Peking Duck, seafood noodles), and watch a movie that Tessa sent along with Anne and Chuck in a care package. But when Anne and I came back up from the apartment complex’ sauna and jacuzzi we went straight to bed. Only the men watched the film. Today was vacation. Tomorrow we are on sick leave.