Archive for May, 2011

Visits

Today was Memorial Day which, in Manchester, is a standard ritual that Axel wouldn’t want to miss for the world. He rushed down to catch the memorial throwing of flowers in the ocean to honor the fallen navy heroes; then some coffee and on to the big event at the main cemetery for the remaining military branches.

I caught up with him, on foot, and marveled at the simple pleasure of walking freely and in peace. Such a treat.

Somewhere in between the usual halting recitation by a high school student of the Gettysburg Address (poppies in Flanders Field), wreath laying, 3 gun salutes, and the school band’s rendering of the national anthem we listened to a most wonderful keynote address about the refining of silver as a metaphor for burning off imperfections and seeing one’s face mirrored clearly in the molten silver – about God’s refining fire and taking care of our veterans. I am not doing it any justice right now.

We decided that the speech could have veered off in the wrong direction but it didn’t and we were spell-bound by the stories that brought the metaphor to life.

On our way back we visited family- Manchester is a small town and one cannot simply walk past the open windows of relatives. It took us the entire morning to walk back home.
In the afternoon we visited friends in neighboring towns, delivered gifts and made plans for my birthday party in Holland, later this year. It was a day of visiting, of being family and friends.

Happiness

I woke up early to see the remains of the party. Not all that bad – I have seen worse. Someone was sleeping by the fire on the beach and someone else on our couch. Steve’s mom and sister had left for Toronto, a very long drive, before anyone was up and left a note. We didn’t get to say goodbye.

I finished most of what was left of the French cheese platter for breakfast, something I came to regret. French cheese is one of these things that I dream about in Afghanistan but my stomach isn’t quite used to that kind of rich food anymore.

Sita and Jim took off next to attend the funeral of their sister-in-law’s dad who died in a car accident, too young, too painful. They left dressed in mourning clothes on a beautiful spring morning.

The few people who had spent the night woke up and left, one by one, and we started the clean up. At 9:30 AM, as used to be my routine, I biked to Quaker meeting but not after having washed the squirrel debris off my bicycle and pumping new air into the flat tires.

The bike ride to Quaker meeting is always meditative and used to be an integral part of my religious practice before we moved to Kabul. I needed that half hour badly after the disappointing news that my request for a few days of leave to attend Rutger and Payal’s monsoon wedding in July in Kerala (India), had been denied. I forced myself to count my blessings and be cool about it.

In meeting we found just a handful of people. It is Memorial Day weekend and Americans tend to go places. One hour of silence is what I needed although I could never quite keep my thoughts from racing then this way, then that. I have too much on my mind – the forced stillness was good but also ineffective. There was no communing with God as I had hoped.

Axel and I, accompanied by the happy young couple and their two dogs, went for a long walk through Ravenswood where nature offered all its springtime treasures for our viewing pleasure: Lady Slippers, wild Irises, pre-bloom Trillium, frogs, mosses, tiny Sassafras saplings, Reishi mushrooms and more. Tessa and I clicked away to catch each on camera – for her to work into art one day and for me to treasure back in hot and dry Kabul.

Afterwards we went to Downriver Ice Cream, run by our friends the Ahearns, and gorged ourselves on double scoops of Big Mug, O’ Snap, Orange Creamsicle, Deer Tracks, Snail Trails and River Runs Through It – all variations on cream, chocolate, cookies and sugar syrups.

Having satisfied our craving for ice cream we fulfilled our filial duties by planting geraniums, an annual ritual that we missed last year, at the Magnuson graves. The ancestors are now presentable again, their grave sites neat and colorful for the Memorial Day festivities across the street from the Cemetery.

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Popped

The day slowly transformed from promising cold to the sunny summer day that makes Lobster Cove the best place for a party. Tessa got to have her friends over to celebrate her graduation and we got to have our friends over to do that too and welcome us back. It feels as if we never left. It is good to be home.

Around sunset Steve gathered everyone on the beach and positioned himself on a rock to give a speech. This is not your typical behavior for someone who likes to blend into the backdrop. Some of us knew what was coming but Tessa did not. He popped the question in the same breath with which he congratulated her on her graduation.

Tessa’s incredulous face, the tears, the hugs, then the ring, all was put on tape and many of us pinked away some tears. It was all so very romantic and beautiful, against the backdrop of the setting sun, the cove and her dearest friends and family standing in a circle around her. More hugs, more tears. Not everyone heard her say yes, but she did.

Within minutes Sita had alerted facebook from her iPhone about her sister’s engagement, accompanied by a picture of her very surprised sister. Tessa then changed her status to make it official. Facebook rules!

Arrived

We’ve done well as parents – it takes a long time before you can say this – one married, a home owner and financially independent from us; the other a bachelor in the fine art of graphic design.

We watched beaming with pride as Tessa strode among the 62 other Montserrat graduates to the podium on her 5 inch heels and in her disposable black gown and cap to receive her diploma. She was one of 6 with high honors, her name marked with two asterisks in the program. Yeah for Tessa!

Sitting on the deck of one of our favorite restaurants in Gloucester, we celebrated her accomplishment by ordering a sushi boat – one of those things I often fantasized about in Kabul but totally out of our reach over there.

Afterwards we strolled along Bearskin Neck and touched all the jewelry pieces in several stores before landing in Corey’s workshop where Tessa hangs out a lot to shoot the breeze and admire his wonderful paintings – several of which she has already acquired over the last few years.

Back home Axel pulled out the kayaks, it was that kind of summer evening, and paddled across the full cove, breathing in the salty sea air that we so miss in Kabul.

Still somewhat jet-lagged I retired early just as the first part of the two day long party was starting.

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Skies, clean teeth and dander

Sally had welcomed me back to the US with an invitation to go flying over Essex County. I wrote her right back and asked ‘when?’ And so, while Tessa was rehearsing her graduation ceremony on her 5 inch heels, we took to the skies with Sally; Axel took his first flight since July 14, 2007. No sweat.

Below us was Essex County at its best. ‘This,’ said Sally, pointing at what laid before us, ‘is my office.’ She instructs people in the art of flying. That’s why Axel and I felt at ease in her small plane.

I realized how much I have forgotten about flying. When she offered I take the controls I accepted only the easiest task – cruising straight ahead. I will register as her student once we are back. I have a lot of catching up to do.

After flying came the dentist (3 cavities for Axel, 0 for me) and then we drove to DJ in Rockport to hang out for awhile and check out the new leather merchandise, especially shoes and handbags. On an otherwise slow day I made sure there was at least one buyer; the sale completed once Tessa showed up and dispensed her shoe advice, something I take very seriously. She approved of my selection.

On our way home we picked up Sita and Jim who were walking through the old Magnuson greenhouse, abandoned and for sale. Sorry sights like that always tug at Sita’s heart strings and bring out her discerning eye as a photographer of anyting that deserves our pity. One of her pictures, she told me, she posted on facebook with a request for 1 million dollar – just in case there were any people out there who were dying to pump money into a something most of us would consider derelict and hopeless, but she has a vision.

After a dinner of fish and greens, Tessa’s friend Val showed up to do a graduation henna tattoo on Tessa’s arm. It looked like an intricate Magic Shell designas the dark brown substance hardened on her skin. I marveled at Val’s steady hand that copied the design flawlessly from a page to Tessa’s arm. With her 3 feet of matted red hair, her 5 inch heels, her tattoo she will stand out a bit I suspect. Add to that the yellow cord for high honors around her neck and she will be irresistible.

Long after dark Steve drove up from Vermont with his mom and sister (from Toronto) and 3 dogs, two of them Tessa and Steve’s. I finally got to see our new grand-puppy Oona that isn’t all that small anymore and has surpassed her sister Chicha in weight and size. The large number of dogs (Val had brought hers as well) and the jumping and hugging and petting that went on in our small kitchen released enough dog hair and dander that Axel’s dog allergy, determined by the allergy specialist last week, was painfully confirmed.

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Settling in and out

I am still a bit out of my rhythm and haven’t returned to my disciplined daily writing – I crashed around 8 PM.

I spent my entire first day in the US at our Cambridge HQ. It wasn’t just about being devoted to my work but also to see some friends, pick up my new computer, an and take care of other matters that needed attention. I arrived early to catch one of my colleagues before he went into a three-day training on business development.

It is strange to come back to a place that used to be my daily destination for so many years. There were many new faces, the carpets had been changed (one thing that the Afghans know to do a whole lot better than the Americans) and the walls had been painted in new colors. There were also a lot of young women who used to be single college grads and are now moms. They proudly showed me pictures of their babies and toddlers.
I experienced the commute again which made me think twice about returning to HQ and doing this on a daily basis again. Being driven around in Kabul isn’t so bad, even the traffic is not as bad. What we would consider a very long drive in and out of town would be normal stop and go here. At least in Kabul there is a lot of interesting stuff to see while stuck in traffic.

And so my plans for after Kabul remain vague and my interest in finding another field position has gone up by a few notches.

On the other hand, being in Lobster Cove is wonderful. It was another sunny day, the grass was bright green, and fish in the cove (Axel caught one – Tessa and I sputtered about animal abuse when we saw the poor thing flapping around on the lawn). When I got home, about 11 hours after I had left in the morning, Axel was hunkered over a large chunk of meet on a beach fire, beer in hand while Tessa prepared the rest of dinner – freshly picked asparagus and new potatoes.

Wet & wonderful

I am home in Lobster Cove, like a sponge sucking up the humidity. People complain, but I like it. When I landed in Boston the sun came out for the first time in weeks, as if for the occasion. I saw New England at its best: flowering trees, shrubs, a dazzling green from the new growth everywhere.

I missed two days of writing and posting because I was traveling light, without a computer.

I left Afghanistan on the Safi fight with the usual cast of characters: beefy bold(ing) (military and paramilitary) men with sun glasses and cellphones or iPods strapped to their enormous upper arms and their camouflaged back packs.

In Dubai I dropped my bags off at the hotel, had lunch at the Bateel date place in a nearby shopping center, brought some gifts for the girls at Fabindia and took a taxi to the Dubai Mall for a hour long massage to get more kinks out and get me ready for the long voyage home.

I dined at the Waterfront Promenade looking at the water fountains sitting on a terrace at the foot of the tallest structure in the world. With my back to the tower I watched people from all over the world try to get their loved one or travel companion on a picture with the tower in the background. One has to get deep down on one’s knees to get both person and structure in the picture. It was good fun watching people contorting themselves – only a companion and a glass of cold white wine were missing.

The nice Delta people gave me an upgrade so I was able to make the transatlantic crossing mostly on my back and asleep in the wonderful flatbed pods. It is really the only sane way to make the 15 plus hour trip. Even so it was long.

In between sleep I watched the King’s Speech, Easy Rider and a Chinese Detective that was cut short by our landing in Atlanta. I also was able to complete nearly all the homework my Dari teacher had given me for the next two weeks.

The final leg I made in a very full plane from Atlanta to Boston. A couple from Ghana or Nigeria in full traditional garb, probably coming to Boston for their child’s graduation, provided a wonderful contrast with the many business travelers holding on for dear life to their two cellphones and powerpoint presentations.

Axel waited for me, Starbucks coffee in hand, and drove me to Manchester where I walked the estate, ate some fleshy asparagus straight from the garden and inhaled deeply the salty sea air to clean out the Kabul dirt from my respiratory system. There is no place like home.

Tessa had arranged a pedicure and we each brought our dresses for the graduation to get a good match between dress and toes. Afterwards we joined Axel for an early bird dinner out and we marveled at everything and everybody. I turned in at 7:30 PM to be ready for the one work day in this vacation.

Ash

And so the last day of work came and went. I completed my handover notes, filled my waste basket with papers no longer useful or necessary, cleaned off my desk, shook hands and started looking towards the US.

Since I was last there three seasons have passed here (two and a half in the US). It feels like ages ago that I was home. Excitement was mounting until I watched the BBC and saw, to my great consternation, a gigantic ash cloud filmed out of a plane window. At first I hoped that I was looking at old footage and then realized it was from yesterday. I immediately had nightmare scenarios playing in my head: missing the graduation and all the fun because I would be stuck in Amsterdam, or worse, in Dubai.

For a change fee of a couple of hundred dollars I routed myself from Dubai to Boston via Atlanta rather than Amsterdam. It takes a landing in Europe out of the equation and if, for some reason the ash cloud drifts to Atlanta or Boston, I am at least on the right continent.

Since I will be travelling without a computer (I would have to drag a large keyboard along that doesn’t fit on the tray table) I will sign off now for as long as it takes me to get to a computer and internet connection again.

A big city

I was finally able to make it again to the wool place where the rug we saw started several months ago was ready for our viewing (and buying). We drove the long avenue through the Hazara part of town. Our Pashto driver said it was dangerous, pushing the bridge of his nose down to emphasize that his nose was very different from the ones we saw around us. We were in Gengis Khan land. There is bad blood and bad history between the Hazaras and the Pashtoons and people have along memories. I could tell he was not altogether at ease.

Of course the Hazaras are probably just as uneasy with the Pashtoon driver – it is a matter of who outnumbers who. Still this very big part of Kabul is no longer the scene of violence it was during Mujahideen time. We were thus in a safe part of Kabul when a suicide bomber detonated himself in the 400-bed military hospital far across town. I used to go to that hospital for physical therapy every Saturday during most of my first year here. Used to…might have been….Kabul is a big city.

I was warmly welcomed at the wool factory where this time some 15 women and girls were busy spinning and knitting and carpeting. I had brought juice packs and cookies and everyone was asked to come and sit in the knitting room to be with the foreign lady. I told them they could ask any question they wanted to ask me. But girls are taught not to be curious and so the questions were left in their heads. They mostly hid behind their veils and giggled, especially the young girls. This time there were no boys – they were in school. The girls had the afternoon shift, I discovered to my relief; although I watched child labor, it was not child labor at the expense of an education.

Two girls were busy on a large than life portrait rug of an American soldier by the name of Mr. Burton; bald-headed, the kind that pumps iron, drinks Red Bull and wears Ray Ban sunglasses. They had just finished his moustache. Weird.

The rug we had seen under construction some months ago was already spread out for me to view. I had not intended to buy it but when it became clear that a good chunk of the money would go to the families of the boys and girls who had worked on it and the remainder would buy another spinning wheel I quickly counted out my dollars and bought it.

For my Dari grammar class I was once again alone and learned the simple present perfect and the continuous present perfect allowing me to make more and more complex sentences, such as, I have forgotten my Dari since I haven’t spoken it for a few weeks. We made plans for my classes after my return in June and I was given a workbook that is used in 3rd grade here. My teacher expects me to keep on studying while on leave. All I could promise is that I would work in planes and while waiting for planes, but probably not much more than that.

Florabundance and other performances

I spent the morning reviewing performance reviews of the staff who are reporting to my staff. It is something that I take so serious that I never have the quiet time at work, so it’s saved up for the weekend. Writing good performance objectives, clarify expectations and then writing the assessment is very difficult if you want to do it right and very easy if you remove the staff development/mentoring aspect from it. It is a little thankless when you realize that for many people it is simply a compliance thing.

Friday is beauty parlor day. I have a masseuse who not only gives me great massages but also jewelry, semi-precious stones, hugs, food, and Starbucks coffee. The young Afghan girl gives me the relaxing massage while Lisa works the kinks out of my muscles – this is not relaxing and rather painful. And Pearl practiced her hair cutting skills on me because her job from last week was not quite complete.

I re-appeared from the odd salon (provider of armored vehicles, forklifts and other manly war things) with shorter hair, more limber and with shiny painted toenails, requirements, according to the team of beauticians, for seeing my family in a few days.

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In the afternoon I was invited to S’s house to check out the hybrid and grafted roses of which we had only seen the leafless and burlap-wrapped stumps on New Year’s day, 2 months ago. They had all broken out into spectacular blooms, some rose bushes instant multi-colored bouquets because of the grafting.

S and her sister were preparing a wonderful meal while I was sitting with her mom, this time no longer talking in broken German but rather in Dari. In the two months since we had celebrated new year with them my Dari had improved to the point where I could now manage the conversation without too much trouble. Occasionally she would slip into German but then I would quickly return to Dari. I tried a few of my new Pashto words on her which I then had to repeat to much amusement to the rest of the family. I felt very encouraged.

We moved to the outdoor veranda which was quickly covered by a carpet and cushions. While mom and I installed ourselves on the cushions, nursing our arthritic knees, the girls brought out a multi-course late lunch/early dinner (what the French would call a goûter). The tape recorder was brought out for some German songs from the 70s that mom had brought back. followed by Pashto songs that made it hard to sit still. For several hours we enjoyed conversation in several languages in the quiet afternoon warmth that settled over us after a nasty dust storm that had everyone gasping for air underneath their chadoors or destmals (checkered all purpose cloths worn by men in a variety of ways).

The very talkative kawk (fighter partridge) was let out of his cage and engaged in a rigorous exercise with papa whose feet he kept pecking at (he didn’t do any of this silly behavior with females). It was all quite entertaining.

Back home my friend Fazle the jeweler returned with the repaired earrings and rings and brought some more stuff, just in case I had money burning in my pocket. I called N in from guesthouse 0 who had indeed this burning sensation. Among the repaired treasures were the lapis earrings that Axel had bought for me on Chicken Street in Kabul in 1978. They had been broken at least a decade ago, as were the earrings he bought for me in Senegal at our 25th anniversary. They are all back in service just in time for our family gathering for Tessa’s graduation. Fazle donated a ring and is planning another surprise if he gets it to me in time. Three more nights, 2 more days till lift off!


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