Archive for June, 2011



Hard landing

I am back in Kabul where summer is in full swing. The dry mountain air instantly dehydrated me and the mineral-laden water that comes out of our faucets turned my skin into parchment.

It was very hard to come home to an empty house that has signs of Axel everywhere. I got a taste of what it might feel like when your best friend would be really gone, forever – all these traces. I had a cup of tea and a good cry and then Skype-chatted with my colleague and friend Jana in Kinshasa for nearly an hour.

When one’s best friend/life partner is not around, second best is long time girl friends and in the absence of that female friends. Now, with neither category A or B nearby I will have to rely on technology and/or expand my network of female friends here in Kabul to help me through the next four months.

I had alerted the guesthouse manager that Axel is not coming back and that I will continue my habit of eating only salads in the evening (green, fruit). Axel’s non return will particularly disappoint the cook and housekeeper. Since I usually leave (for work) before they arrive at our guesthouse and return after they leave there won’t be the Dari/English practice sessions with Axel and little contact with the people/person they are caring for. The cook will probably not be very happy with the minimalist cooking I have asked for, depriving him of Axel’s cooking lessons and the pride of cooking whole meals.

Return to base

The flight from Atlanta to Dubai was once again endless even though I had many hours of sleep in my comfy B-class pod and, when not asleep, had innumerable things to keep me occupied and forget about time. Still, Dubai is far away from home – eight time zones; my sense of night and day is all messed up.

It took me from Boston to Atlanta and another hour into the next leg to unravel the cross stitches that I had spent several days on in Manchester and Vermont. If you are off by one thread at the start nothing can fix it other than starting over again. It’s the same with flying – if you are one degree off at the beginning of the journey and stay the course you may end up in Moscow rather than Dubai.

During our visit to Sita’s house I was reminded that her colors are not quite the pastel palette I had started with. The new start allowed me to use the proper palette this time: variations on red and pink. It will be a Quaker sampler with a Sita twist this time.

I am very happy with my netbook purchase. In order to leave Axel with my Kindle I downloaded a neat little program along with the Kindle software that turned my netbook into a Kindle, even letting me read the screen vertically – I hold the netbook like a book, it’s about the right size and weight. There is another piece of software that would even turn the screen into a Kindle look-alike, saving much battery power, but that requires more research.

Dubai is the best airport for single female travelers. Upon leaving the airport a row of pink taxis, with female drivers, also dressed in a pink outfit, a pink cap and a white veil are on standby to pick up people like me. All these female drivers appear to be Philippina. They chat in Tagalog with callers on their blue tooth cellphone, the blue light of their headset blinking through the white veil as if they are robots receiving instructions from outer space.

This time I picked a hotel in back of the Emirates Mall as part of my exploration of good deals among the thousands of hotels that dot the Dubai landscape. The hotel has the grandiose name of Grandeur Hotel. It is quite new and thus has some teething problems like not having a bottle opener for my Heineken or a scale to weigh my luggage. I learned that all loose things are stolen by clients. I had to leave an 80 dollar deposit for that reason I suspect.

Blessed after all

There was the illusion of having a good part of today but a 4 PM departure from Logan meant that the entire morning was dominated by the trip back to Kabul.

We were able to squeeze in a long walk on the Masconomo loop. Lobster Cove and the area around it was it its very best with all the rhododendrons at their peak. Unfortunately the leisurely lobster lunch overlooking the cove fell by the way side – not enough time.

I am returning with a suitcase full of books, teas, pills and a very old family rug that needs some repairs. Afghanistan seems like the right place for this task. I suspect I am one of very few people who fly into Afghanistan with a carpet.

I am sitting now at Hatfield (Atlanta) airport watching planes come and go while I count my blessings. I am grateful for the last two weeks and everyone who helped make them unforgettable: Axel, the kids, Steve for working his butt off so we can vacation in Vermont for three glorious days, Sally for our flight over Essex, our friends who treated us to many wonderful dinners. This leave was actually a real vacation – something I had not expected.

I am starting to turn the page and prepare myself for work again and feel confident that I can make my last four months of living in Afghanistan productive, interesting and manageable.

Last call for Lobster Cove

Grand finale day 2 it was indeed – more 10+ weather, more walks, fishing, plus the new netbook all prepared for the long trip, Kindle and all, and the much coveted B-class seat available after all.

Still the imminent departure from all that I hold dear is sometimes that hits me from time to time like a two-by-four. Maybe it is a good thing that Kabul is not just an hour flight away. I have all of the next 60 hours to make the mental transition to my other life.

We said goodbye to Woody who was in a foul mood because his renters in Watertown were caught red-handed in a dope growing enterprise and had trashed his house in the process. He had just returned to see the damage for himself. He vented and we sympathized over G&Ts in his lovely garden where the Sikkimese prayer flags we brought him were happily fluttering in the wind. He needs many prayers.

Tessa and Steve had prepared another fabulous summer dinner (with fish of course) after which Axel and I went for a last (evening) walk around Smith Point. The steep inclines on the walk took his breath away. It was as if this walk was to confirm that his staying behind is exactly the right thing, difficult as the decision was. There is more recovery to be done.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Grand Finale part 1

Today was a 10+ weather day at Lobster Cove – like a grand finale of my two wonderful weeks at home. I am spending my last two days here doing everything I cannot do in Kabul.

First of all I make sure I am with Axel all the time. We go out for walks and dress in summer clothes. We went for a long walk across the swamp trail in Ravenswood taking the two dogs along for a good run and some mud baths along the way. We went to Gloucester to get seafood, and we drive wherever we want to go. Oh such a luxury!

For lunch we set the picnic table overlooking Lobster Cove and treated ourselves to shrimp and smoked salmon in the company of Woody. We had asked him to join us to thank him for lending us his late mom’s (rather elderly) car. It makes scary noises when you brake or go around the corner but it will do when there are no other cars available. Tessa had taken one to work and then to Vermont to pick up Steve and Steve’s car is in the shop.

After lunch we headed for the mall to buy me a small computer for private use and during long plane ride in cramped quarters. The new office computer I was given upon my arrival is not made for this sort of use. Although I was tempted by the iPad and nearly convinced myself that it was worth the expense, I bought, for much less money, the top of the line netbook even though the salesperson kept saying that the netbooks were out. For now it will do for me.

Alison, who we hadn’t seen for 9 months, and Pia who we usually see only in Kabul joined us for dinner en plein air until the mosquitoes chased us inside. We had invited five others and cooked lobsters and corn for 9 but they didn’t show up, leaving us with an abundance of food, washed down with a wonderful vinho verde.

Wrapping up

After a last milking and feeding of the goats we erased all physical signs of our wonderful time at the farm, including the hair of four active dogs and drove off to Sita’s house about two hours south in 3 cars.

We stopped at the house to admire her handiwork in the garden and see the convalescing kitty Cortez. Sita and Jim’s cats are indoor cats and Cortez had escaped and had a bad encounter with a car. We all thought he was going to die – but cats are resilient and the vets helped for a sizeable chunk of cash. Cortez’ shaven tail still looks like rat’s tail and he walks a bit funny but he is clearly on the mend.

As a parting activity we had organic and locally produced roadside food near a farmer’s market and then Steve headed north again for his last days of work at the farm and we, Tessa, Axel, myself and the two dogs, headed east for two hour ride to Lobster Cove.

The rest of the day consisted of goodbyes to dear friends, cocktails here, dinner there during which we invariably have to touch the subject of what next. The immediate ‘next’ is a return to Kabul without Axel, a difficult prospect.

Slowly slowly

I am making very little progress on my next cross stitch venture, a copy of the one completed before, with different colors and different letters, for Sita and Jim; after they get married Tessa and Steve will get one too. At the pace I am going they will have years to go before I can start the last one.

I keep undoing the work, much like Penelope but for different reasons – mostly my inability to distinguish three threads from two – it’s a vision thing I fear. We are also very busy with vacation.

Today we went horseback riding with an outfit that deserves an unhappy face on their website for customer satisfaction. They blamed the federal government logging activities for the fact that our 2 hour trail ride was for more than 1 hour along a wide unpaved and boring road, going at a very slow pace.

Sita and I had hoped they’d let us trot or canter a bit but the guide lady – who had only horse skills but no people skills, wouldn’t let us. It was an excruciatingly boring ride. We had to ride single file so we could not really talk with one another. I tried to make the best of it by meditating a bit while staring at the black flies that were pestering our horses. We did not protest when we returned to the makeshift stables before our time was up.

Tessa, the only first time rider in our party, was thrown off her horse because upon our return to our the horses grazing grounds two of them got too close to each other, rearing up and scaring themselves and their riders. Jim held on to the reins and saddle but Tessa let go and landed with a thud. The staff had not been paying any attention to who could dismount and who could not on their own, nor where each horse was grazing.

It was a painful parting with my hard earned danger pay money to fulfill our financial obligation for this rather unsuccessful outing. Axel had chosen wisely not to go along and had spent an agreeable time in the green mountains enjoying the sun and the views.

We then splurged in Bob’s Diner further up the road on excellent roadside food, including one-dollar Pabst Blue Ribbon pints that served perfectly to quench our thirst. On our way home we stopped at Stratton Village, a place that was dead as a door nail without the snow and skiers.

Back at the B&B we relaxed our sore bottoms in the hot tub while Steve went about his farm chores. It is amazing how often and quickly it is milking/feeding time again.

I could a dinner of leftovers while everyone else watched the Stanley Cup projected on the high wall by a gadget that turns your home into a cinema – there is no escaping the giant TV projection with this thing, my worst nightmare – that everyone else liked a lot.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

More happiness

The couple who owns the B&B left in the morning and gave us the run of the house, provided that Steve continues to do his (volunteer) farm chores. We all happily joined him in finding eggs from the chicken and ducks (and then eating them), and feeding the livestock. Steve does the milking because none of the rest of us are farm hands.

When we are down in the barn we have to fend off the aggressive rooster who tried to peck us as much as he has abused his hens. I suspect him of having the Genghis Khan Y chromosome. He is that kind of a male. Tessa only gets close to him with a large stick in her hand. I am told he is going to Freezer Camp soon. I am sure all the chicken will sigh with relief. There is no safe house for them – at night they are all in one chicken coop.

The baby goats are adorable, only a few weeks old. Three of them are small females; two are slightly larger boys, black and white speckled coats, like an inverse Dalmatian. Then there are two older kids, both destined as meat goats. All but one of the boys will also go to Freezer Camp as Tessa calls it. The remaining little meat goat is destined to sire many more. He is the lucky one.

It took us hours to get up and ready for the day, way past noon, but finally we made it out of the house for a long walk through mosquito-infested woods and up into the mountains. We had to walk waving our hands around our ears in a permanent motion to keep from having them removed by the swarms of blood sucking creatures. Axel’s lungs are doing relatively well, given that we are surrounded by four dogs and much animal dander all the time – one of the things he is allergic too.

We went into the big town (Manchester) to get supplies for our evening meal. It is beautiful country here. It made me fantasize about finding my next job here. Only the bugs and the very long winters are a bit of a problem.

Back at the farm we watched Steve milk again, this needs to happen twice a day. The expressed milk immediately got recycled into the baby goats who drink the amalgamated mothers’ milk through small rubber teats placed on soda bottles. If we wouldn’t intervene this way into nature usual provisions for feeding offspring at least one of the small goats might not have survived the pushing and shoving for of its more aggressive siblings.

In the evening everyone but me got involved in meal preparation in the enormous industrial size kitchen. The story has it that the owners brought back plates from a vacation abroad; the plates were one eighth of an inch too large for the kitchen cabinets which needed to be replaced; this triggered a wish to finally have the commercial kitchen installed, which required an annex to the house. As needs made way for wants the project grew in complexity. To make a long story short, the original house was sold and one twice the size (8000 ft) was built in its stead. This is where we are now.

Only in such a large kitchen can five people cook without getting into each others’ way. The resulting meal was superb leaving us with no room for the desserts we had bought.

We ended the day playing an old board game that was popular when the girls were young. Although it was called travel in Europe, I, as the only European, came in last of the 6.

The whole day was one of the happiest during this short vacation. Simply being with, laughing with, being silly with, talking with the ones I love more than anything else in the world was the best cure for my Kabul blues.But the countdown is relentless. Today I plan another day of total happiness.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Unready in Vermont

I am dreading the return flight – now only 5 days away as my saved itinerary cheerfully tells me. The slow workings of approvals and such at MSH dashed my hopes and chances for an upgrade on the 14 hour flight to Dubai and even an aisle seat in economy. I am sitting in the end of the very last section, by the window, only one notch up from a middle seat. I keep telling myself, it could have been worse.

The third doctor Axel consulted yesterday, the pulmonary specialist, added his verdict to that of the others: it is not a good idea for him to return to Kabul. So it is definite now: Axel stays home. The final decision came easily once we realized that Axel’s non responsiveness to Prednisone makes his return too risky – a serious asthma attack could become easily life threatening. This is another reason why I am not happy to go back.

Rather low in spirits I set out with Axel, Steve and Tessa in the back with the dogs on their laps, to Vermont for a few days vacation on the B&B farm where Steve works. The host family received us as if we were long lost friends. Steve went right to work to feed the baby goats which he helped birth not so long ago.

In the meantime a fabulous dinner was prepared in the industrial kitchen with all of Steve’s favorite dishes on the menu. Innkeeper Ed opened champagne to toast to the young couple.

In the middle of the night our bed collapsed. Explosion, then earthquake raced through my mind and I felt so vulnerable that I realized I haven’t quite come down from Kabul –a vaguely familiar feeling from way back, of trying to come down from Beirut. It took some time, I remember.
Needless to say I am not ready to return to Kabul.

From the river into the melting pot

The weather yesterday was very much like my mood – wild swings – from sunny and warm to squalls, rain storms, thunder and lightning, and even, 90 miles west of us, a killer tornado. I revel in the warm summer weather and then get all depressed when I see the warning on my delta reservation that my trip is only 6 days off. I want to hold on to the days so they move slowly but they slip by too fast while we try to do everything we can with friends and family, enjoying ourselves and vacationing.

I try not to think about the possibility that I will return alone – it is sitting like some undigested nut in the pit of my stomach. Today we will know whether Axel comes back with me or not.

After a thunder and lightning storm squall had passed over our town in the early morning, we were ready to execute a plan that we cooked up the night before of a kayak trip through the Audubon park in Ipswich and Topsfield. But first we had to sort out the challenging logistics of getting four people, two cars without roof racks and four kayaks to two different places (one upstream, one downstream). We started our slow paddle down the Ipswich River at 12:30.

For more than three hours we paddled lightly and leisurely down the river, carried sometimes by the current and a cool breeze. Except for two other humans in a canoe, with a blue-eyed Siberian Husky, we were alone with nature and ourselves.

We admired the yellow and blue irises, yellow water lilies, grey and white herons, red-winged blackbirds, frogs, and even a beaver sticking its head out of the water to see who was coming. I missed the dead fish eating water snake that grossed Tessa out so much that she didn’t dare to stick her feet in the water anymore after that. Suffice to say we did not swim.

Sore from paddling for that long we dashed off to Boston to see the Dale Chihuly exhibit at the FMA – a dazzling display of glass blowing mastery and colors.

We celebrated Tessa’s graduation and the couple’s engagement at the Melting Pot with various fondues – Mexican cheese, Bourguignon and finally chocolate – violating all the strict rules I had learned in my childhood about cheese fondue:
1. There is only one kind made with Emmenthaler and Gruyere
2. There can be nothing else on the menu (Bourguignon was another meal for another day and I had never even heard of chocolate fondue)
3. It has to be stirred in one direction only (8 shape) on medium heat until the cheese dissolves smoothly into the white wine.
4. You can only drink white wine with cheese fondue
5. Dessert can only be slices of canned pineapple served in their own liquid and with a splash of Kirschwasser.

I never had dared to find out what would happen if you violated these rules but the punishment (having to throw out the fondue because the melted cheese would not dissolve into a smooth mass or large balls of congealed cheese in your stomach causing unbearable pain) was enough to discourage me. But now I know. Another myth shattered.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.


Categories

Blog Stats

  • 136,983 hits

Enter your email address to follow this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email.

Join 76 other subscribers