Archive for February, 2014

Impatience

The fifth snowstorm since I landed nearly 3 weeks ago has announced itself. This is why some of my colleagues like to travel to assignments in warm places this time of year. Many people are getting very impatient for spring but I know it is a long way off here in new England. March here has nothing to do with spring.

But I don’t mind the winter and the snow. I actually like snowstorms – at least under certain conditions: I don’t have to be on the road or have a flight to catch (or land), our snow plow contractor shows up, we have dry wood for the fireplace within reach and the electricity stays on.

Snowstorms greatly advance my knitting. I completed another sweater for Faro from the wool Sita and I bought at an enormous wool/knitting warehouse that happens to be in her neck of the woods. I was like a kid in a candy story and spent a chunk of my Kabul danger money there.Faro_sweater

Both Axel and I have body parts that need healing: his thumb and my foot. Both of us started off a little too enthusiastically exercising our tender parts too much and too quickly. Now there is push back and we are told to back off.

My impatience makes me forget that the body heals at its own pace. I should know better. But I want to walk, hike and ski (cross country) again. The ankle doctor told me I should count on a half year for 90% recovery and a full year for a full recovery. I am only 3.5 months into the process.

My physical therapist creates adjustments to my exercises to avoid the pains and aches that have surfaced and counsels ice packs more often and short ‘ice-naps’ with my foot elevated above my heart. “Can you do that in your office?” she asked me. I surveyed the office landscape in my mind, searching for a place. I think I can find one where I have a view of the outside and no one has a view of me.

Happiness

Axel and I watched and listed to Alexandre Dumas’ Count of Monte Christo. I had downloaded from our Manchester library the unabridged (English) narrative while still in Kabul, for the long trip back. The download took an entire night, 42 parts, each about one and a half hour of narration. It took me another two weeks after I landed to finish the book. The snowstorms helped. There is nothing like sitting by the fire, knitting and being read to by a superb actor.

Axel got us started, in parallel, on the French mini-series, starring Gerard Depardieu as the count. Some members of my family call him Gerard Depardon’t which irritates me mildly – just because they can’t pronounce dieu it doesn’t mean it is funny. I told them the joke, if it is one, would not be understood in Europe. Ah, American humor. I suggested to call him Gerard Depardiable, but that is not funny; it is, in some ways, the role he takes on.

Listening to the 60 hours of English during the day and then watching the 6 hours of French ( spread over the two weeks as well) was interesting. I pointed out the many liberties the script writers had taken – which I suppose one has to when having to reduce a story by 90%.

The story is a classic indeed, leading to many conversations around the dinner table about justice, righting wrongs and taking the law into one’s own hands. But in the end I think it is about life’s purpose, happiness and the toll that anger and revenge take. As for the writer, we can’t imagine how someone can write such a long book with a quill pen and ink. And to think it was only one of many books he wrote. On to the three musketeers!

Return to normal

As I am progressing with my physical therapy, I am learning much about the intricate design of the human foot. My left foot, having been packaged for the last 3 months, is protesting about the sudden activity it is required to engage in; especially the many little tendons and muscles that have been inactive for so long and now have to compensate for part of the foot unable to move at all.

I started to do my PT exercises with too much enthusiasm which backfired as muscles protested, sometimes in unexpected places. That’s how I learned about how everything is connected to everything, foot, knee, hips.

This week I started to explore the commute to my new place of work. I am helped in this by the social navigation app ‘Waze.’ Based on input from 1000s of Wazers it computes the least obstructed way home or work; as a result every trip is different. Waze was celebrated in this month’s Fast Company as one of the top 50 innovators. It certainly helps me get home as fast as possible. My commute has greatly improved now that I work north of Boston.

Thumb up

Axel went out to the woodpile over the crusty snow in order to supply us with wood for a night of sitting around the fire. He had put on his snow shoes as the snow was knee deep. A few minutes later he came back into the house, without wood and with his thumb bent in a funny way. He had fallen through the upper and middle crust and caught himself with his thumb up.

Fifteen minutes later we were in the emergency room of Beverly Hospital where we spent the next three hours with various professionals attending to his thumb. At 10 PM his thumb had resumed its regular shape, albeit swollen and painful.

Our daughters, who were kept informed via text and pictures of our latest hospital adventures, are getting a little tired of these kinds of updates and wished us well.

We can only be grateful of this mishap not being more serious and of course having a health insurance card.

And so, on February 17, after months of being a care receiver, ???????????????????I became the care giver for a change.

Valentimes

I received my marching orders from my physical therapist: writing the alphabet in the air with my fused foot, a semi-squat side step with my feet tied with elastic and balancing on my left foot, first with eyes open and then, if too easy, with my eyes closed.

I slipped into my ortho boot to recover from the workout and we set out for Easthampton in a light snow. West of Worcester we could see the areas worst hit by Thursdays’s snowstorm, always quite beautiful in the aftermath with all the hard edges soften under a foot and a half of snow.

What a joy to see Faro. It was mutual. He kept muttering, opa, oma, opa, oma…and then we got to read and play and empty baskets full of toys on the floor. Faro is now stringing words together that start to look like sentences, like ‘books on the floor,’ or ‘where is opa now?’

I did my exercises once and then was sore for the rest of the day. I am on the mend but not quite as fast as I wished.

Jim cooked us a nice dinner which we shared with friends of theirs and then I hooked off when the evening just took off, to rest my foot and catch up on sleep.

Fused

I lucked out and landed on a beautiful sunny day in Boston. A day later we were in the middle of a snowstorm with traffic, on land and in the air, a complete mess.

We drove, in the snowstorm, to Boston for my three month post-operative appointment. “You are fully fused,” exclaimed the orthopede, looking at my latest X-ray, “congratulations!” of course these congratulations were also for himself as he did a good job screwing the bones together and I, or rather my bones, did a good job fusing. We are all a bit surprised about the amount of flexibility I still have in my ankle. Only in the pointing and flexing of my toes, when done together with my right foot, does the fusion reveal itself.

We ignored the worsening snowstorm and had a nice French lunch (onion soup, pissaladier, croque monsieur) in Chestnut Hill. Of course by the time we left the restaurant the storm blew over our heads which made for a long trip home, three hours at a snail’s pace.

We killed the time listening to the adventures of the Count of Monte Cristo until I discovered Waze, a social networking/navigation app. I raked up several 100 brownie points for Axel as I reported on this and then that hazard or bunching up on the road, including a real car fire near Peabody; very exciting for us but not so for the owner of the car that went up in flames.

I am starting physical therapy tomorrow for the next 4 to 6 weeks. I am to wean myself out of the orthopedic boot in the next few days. I already started liberating my foot from the boot in Kabul and now have the doctor’s permission to do more of that. Except I need to wear an air brace when I do that, a small cushioned contraption that fits within a sturdy shoe. Yeah, I can wear a shoe again!

Khaki

Before my departure for the airport I was called to a debriefing at USAID. I had not seen the US compound since I left nearly two and a half years ago. The sight (and site) was astonishing. We are building a city inside a city, more city than it was before. Several enormous buildings have gone up to house God knows who and what. Maybe the short termers will finally get proper rooms rather than the hooches they sometimes had to share with several others.

Once inside the section across from the embassy, the place had turned into a city with lanes, balconies on the two-story hooches gave the place a flavor of New Orleans if you imagined the balconies to be wrought iron rather than plain metal. Enormous 16 x 32 feet (?) photographs of the most beautiful places in America adorned the (now painted) concrete walls and you could pretend you were looking out over a misty coast of Maine or sunny Hawaii. I wonder whose idea that had been; whoever it was had recognized that some things of beauty were badly needed to save the souls of our compatriots making difficult decisions from a place that was steeped in ugliness, having little to do with the inherent beauty of the country that hosted them.

The entrance to the US compound was thick with melting snow mixed with mud, the famous Kabul khak. By the time I arrived at my seat in the airplane I had left a thick trail of chunks of mud and my shoes, boot and pants had taken on the color of khaki (named after the Dari word of mud, indeed). I cleaned them up with kleenex in the plane’s bathroom, a messy affair which had to be repeated in another bathroom in Dubai.

I managed on my own the trail through various security checks (none as stringent as getting into the US compound) until we arrived in Dubai where I had requested assistance as the walks can get rather long. A young Nepali man wheeled me through backstage doors, with security waving me through without having to take my boot off. I felt a little undeserving of the sympathy but it was nice nevertheless to transit so painlessly.

And now I am in Amsterdam waiting for the homestretch to start. I hope to outrun the snow storms that are raging around the east coast as I am not interested in any further delay to my homecoming.

Inflamed

I am in my fifth day of a miserable cold, laryngitis, sore throat, cough, sinus pains and what not, hence the absence of posts. Having another inflammation in my arm (a tendinitis that probably came from being on crutches) makes for nights as miserable as the days.

I spent this last week in Afghanistan voiceless. Still I ran a full day event on Sunday, which probably set me back a few days as I thought I was on the mend but then relapsed. My co-facilitator did fine with me whispering on the sidelines. It was actually a good test because he will run the next event, six months from now, on his own, passing his new skills on to another. That’s how it should go.

Being voiceless is a terrible experience because it is only then that you realize how much you have to say. May be if you have always been voiceless you don’t know any better and assume you have nothing to say.

I am under the wonderful nursing care of a colleague who was much better equipped with medicine than I was. I left my entire medicine kit at home; it must have gotten moved out of the routine somehow. And obviously getting sick was not part of the plan.

I am imagining the wars that are going on inside me at a cellular level; now so much better informed about how that takes place from reading The Great Influenza.

I had to skip some fun stuff towards the end of my visit, such as a Friday lunch at M’s new apartment, a visit from my wool supplier who had wanted to bring me a sweater, no doubt knitted by one of his wool widows, seeing my friend F from Pakistan who happened to be in town and saying goodbye to other dear friends. I also had to cancel a last visit to S’ family and the girls’ school. Hopefully I can make up for this a next time as there are some signs that I may be asked to come back, so I consider these simply postponements.

And now I am preparing for my departure; suitcase packed, a last morning in the office to say my goodbyes, departing after lunch for a debrief at USAID and then to the airport and on my way home, still sick as a dog but buoyed by the prospect of home and family.

Voiceless

With the bulk of my work done I promptly got sick; as soon as I had said goodbye to my guests on Wednesday night I could feel the laryngitis coming. When I woke up I was voiceless.

I went to the office for two meetings, weathering a snowstorm that left about 8 inches on the ground. I had promised to show up at lunch time for our ladies lunch which would have been a reunion of sorts. But I probably should have stayed in bed.

My participation in the meetings was stressful as I couldn’t really express myself other than in a croaky or whispering voice. At 1 PM was back at the guesthouse and in bed with a warm water bottle, wishing I was home.

I slept for 16 hours, waking up every few hours, and starting Friday still without a voice. On Sunday I am on again for a one day event which will be rather challenging without a voice.

I spent the day between the couch and my bed, too good to be in bed, not good enough to do anything meaningful. Finally at 3 PM, fever abated, cabin fever up, I went with one of my house mates on a drive by tour of Kabul to see Kabul under half a foot of snow under blue skies. The snow softens Kabul’s hard edges except where it has turned into mud.

Afterwards, back at the guesthouse, I watched the movie Kandahar, to stay with the theme of voiceless. It depressed me and got me back into bed.

Straight lines

We finished the last day of the leadership and advanced facilitation workshop which ended with each provincial team preparing how they will roll out the program once back home. They used particular templates which they copy out of a book; everyone was scrambling for a ruler to make straight lines. Even though I told them this was not some architectural drawing contest, the lines have to be straight. May be we should print the templates on plastic next time so they can simply fill in the blanks; it would save some time of the preparation for show time – the time for a gallery walk where each team can both show and comment on the other teams’ products.

The time estimates I had received from my colleagues yesterday for the pieces they were to run were off; this happens everywhere in the world and it puzzles me. These facilitators are experienced, they have done many sessions, and going over time is quite common. So why can they not estimate how long something will take? Is it because they calculate the time they think they need but do not include the time needed to engage others in conversation. Maybe at the root is the lecturer mindset. Lectures are predictable; they start when the prof walks in and are over when the prof walks out, whether on time or not.

Sometimes the trust fall finds me falling, and what was designed goes into another direction; I discover I had assumed something about my co-facilitators, that they understood the rationale for having a gallery walk instead of plenary presentations. In those instances I get a little bossy, especially on last days when there is a hard stop. When lunch comes at 1 we need to be done; after lunch are the closing words and the certificates.

The certificates threatened to pose a problem; a workshop can go entirely south when there are no certificates at the end – it’s the first response we get when we ask about expectations. Certificates are hugely important for reasons I don’t quite understand – after all these people are doctors and have academic certificates on their walls – more valuable I would imagine than the ones handed out for attendance at this or that workshop.

In the middle of the morning I was told that the certificates were stuck at the ministry where the official who has to sign them had closed his door and didn’t want to be disturbed. Anyone higher up in the hierarchy doesn’t have to respect this, but my colleagues are lower and therefore stuck. Somehow it got resolved, like so many issues here get somehow resolved.

We all got what we wanted, except a few people who wanted more money for their lodging, hoping I could resolve this (I could not); then they got on the plane and went home, hopefully not too disappointed about that money and happy because of the certificate. Nothing is a straight line here despite everyone’s best efforts.


February 2014
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