Archive for January 11th, 2015

Landed – Kigali City

I arrived in Kigali after an uneventful but long trip; unless the storms in Holland and western Europe count as eventful. All the planes out of Schiphol had to use the same runway which made for an extra hour sitting in the plane, waiting.

On the Amsterdam to Kigali leg there were less sneezers and coughers than on the previous leg, which was a little extreme. Still, there were a few in my neighborhood, so on went the mask. Again, I was the only one. No one else seems to be worried – am I becoming too American, worrying about germs? My two most recent bouts with pneumonia and upper respiratory illness during the entire length of my stay in Burkina and later in Madagascar have made me a little paranoid.

I might as well have arrived in a new country, even the capital  is no longer simply Kigali, but Kigali City. So far I have not recognized anything except the hotel Mille Collines that our driver pointed out to me. I did recognize a former colleague on the plane. She now works for another organization in DC as their capacity building expert. Her new job allows her to fly business class – such luck! They must not have much competition if they can afford the steep B-class fares for their staff.

I had settled in my hotel room feeling as if I just had stepped off a long boat ride, with the hotel room swaying as if there was an earthquake (there wasn’t – just my brain playing tricks one me).

I called room service for a plastic bag with ice for my sore shoulder. But how to do that in a country that has banned plastic bags (the sturdy yellow Schiphol bags are perfect for icing). Before embarking we were told that we should leave all plastic bags on the plane.  The nice room service girl came up with a bucket of ice, a mesh bag (not plastic) and a hairnet (also not plastic and full of holes) to put the ice in. I don’t think she understood the purpose and looked very concerned when I told her I was injured and needed to get the inflammation down. She offered to call a doctor.  As soon as she left the room I took one of the many small plastic bags that the TSA requires for liquids and was able to ice myself without getting soaked. I think such bags are legal.

Tomorrow I will meet the new team, which consists mostly of old-timers. One of the newcomers authored several books and studies on leadership in East Asia which I devoured for a writing assignment some years ago. What a surprise to meet him here in faraway Africa, and now a colleague of mine.

Travelling again

I am back on the road, after 2 months on the ground, something that is rather rare. I am off to warmer places, a welcome change after the intense cold spell in Massachusetts.

I nearly forgot the routine. Luckily I put my face masks in my hand luggage at the last minute because I have never been on a plane with so many coughers and sneezers, including my neighbor.  I pressed the mask tightly on and only lifted it for drinking sips of water and taking my meals, so there were some breaches; fingers crossed.

I waved my breakfast in the plane in order to leave room for the much better offerings in the KLM lounge: beschuit met kaas, beschuit met hagelslag, poffertjes and speculaas koekjes. This is where I get my fix of Dutch goodies not available in the US.

I am off on a combo trip: first two weeks in Rwanda where I last landed in 1992. It is a different country now, in many ways, traumatized still, I presume. How could one not, with the generation that survived the slaughter still alive, and adults with unspeakable memories from childhood. And then there is the language, from French to English, although I am told there are still plenty of (older) French speakers around who struggle with English.

I am facilitating the launch of a new project that is actually not all that new, a follow-on of the previous one that we also held, and so many staff continue on, with some new employees and new partners.  We will hold this workplanning retreat off site, some 100 km from Kigali in a place called Gisenyi, on the border with the DRC. I was there too 23 years ago.  We walked across the border into what was then Zaire to experience super-inflation: 2.5 million Zaires, the currency then, bought me a tube of toothpaste. I still have a few of the million Zaire bills, kept as a souvenir of a different era. I also have some Rwandan money from that time.

In my second week in Rwanda the project staff will sit down with its government counterparts and go over their plans to make sure everyone is aligned and expectations can be met.

After that I will fly to Nairobi for a short stay to meet a new hire, the woman who will take over my role as Global Technical Lead for leadership and management. I hope that the new energy she brings and her new ideas will enrich us. I have, after all, been at MSH for 28 years and an injection of something new is called for.

From there I will go to Addis for a brief orientation of ICRC coordinators to prepare them for their role in a senior leadership program that will kick off after my surgery, when I am allowed to travel again, sometime in April.


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