Sylvia's Journal

Our hotel, an old Chinese opera house converted into a boutique hotel, is smack in the middle of Bangkok’s Chinatown’s most intense eating street. We had already noticed the many restaurants but at night the number is extended by 100s of street vendors with their pop up restaurants that consist of kitchen on wheels, plastic stools and foldout tables on the pavement and in front of closed store fronts. All cooking is done in plain view and the intense fires guarantee that any unwanted creatures in the food would be killed instantly. In fact the cooking fires are so intense that the woks are no longer round.

We randomly selected one of the many restaurants near the hotel for lunch. Many of them advertise their shark fin and bird nest dishes, foods that we thought were outlawed, but clearly not here. We choose one that featured other dishes and ate Singapore shrimp noodles and pork-fried rice. After halal Malaysia, the Chinese obsession with pork is rather striking.

After lunch we retreated to our cool room as the heat and humidity were intense. We considered various ideas of what we could or should do and then we looked at our watches and realized it was getting rather late for tourist excursions and the museum had closed.

The hotel has a spa and a massage seemed just the right thing to do. Because there was a staff party (a masquerade ball no less) in the evening there was only one slot left for the day, just before the cocktail hour. We took it and had a most wonderful and relaxing massage, at least I did – Axel always has masseuses work on one muscle group or another that is tight, so his massages are satisfying in another kind of way.

It was the cocktail hour after that and we gave up all ambitions ‘to do’ something by sitting at a street side bar sipping a G&T and a Dr. Beam on the rocks. And then it was time for food again. The hotel provided us with a foodie foot tour in the hotel’s environs, each stop describing what was offered there in terms that made us want to eat right there. We followed the trail until we lost it and also had gotten too hot and sweaty to go on. We finally settled down on wobbly plastic stools in a side alley from where 100s of food stalls and pop up restaurants could be seen in all directions. We ordered two different prawn dishes and a vegetable one with strands of greens that looked a bit like what’s left after weeding the garden. Stir-fried with garlic, chilies, lime juice and fish sauce it became a yummy dish that gave me some ideas. All the while the water and beer we were drinking came straight out of our pores; the humidity did not let up after dark.

We topped off our meal with durian ice cream – Axel had only gotten whiffs of durian but never tasted it. In Melaka we noticed it is called durian belanda (dutch durian), a combination that I don’t quite get. We weren’t quite ready to eat the real thing as they were sold in packages too big to eat in one sitting. I don’t think he will have it again. I bought a kilo of mangosteens knowing he would certainly like them with their citrusy flavor. He did.

We have arrived in Bangkok. I am now past the regrets and can actually appreciate this adventure that I thought we were too old for. We are reminded of our hippy trek days – we are the age of the parents of the young trekkers with their backpacks and bronzed faces, those who are of European, American, or Australian stock. The locals are more in our age category, at least some of them.

With all the boxes and cases stowed it started to get kind of cozy. Our seats already had a table put up between them with the meals we ordered back in Malaysia and two cups of tea. Axel had his remaining beer and we placed the full and empty can in the handy bottle rack until the steward told us that alcohol was forbidden. There was indeed a large sign that we had not seen. He quickly grasped the empties and squeezed them until the labels were no longer readable. The full one was pushed out of sight. A sign, next to the alcohol sign, said that inappropriate behavior would not be tolerated. We were happy about that.

Around 9:00 PM the sleepers were prepared by the steward who moved fast through our car, lowering the upper berths and making the beds with the bedding hidden behind the folded up top berth. Each sleeper bed had a turquoise curtain for privacy. The number of each seat was embroidered in the middle of the curtain reminding us to creep into the right berth after a visit to the toilet.

At first things were a little noisy – mobile phones went off and kept ringing when the owner had already fallen asleep. A few small children played electronic games with the most annoying sounds, but eventually everything went quiet as we thundered through the narrow landmass between the Malaysian border and Bangkok.

We stopped a few times, some people got off but no one got on, except for hawkers feeding the few sleepless travelers and knowing exactly when it was time to get off the train. Cars were added or taken off judging from the loud maneuvering bumps up and down the train.

The toilets were old but stayed cleaner than the toilets on Emirates’ Dubai-Dhaka flight. There were sinks for brushing teeth and washing up and a restaurant car that served meals and (non-alcoholic) drinks. A tiny galley produced food for those who didn’t want it from the hawkers.

Everyone slept late – by 8:30 AM most curtains were still closed. We waited in vain for our paid breakfast and bought it again from the restaurant car when that transaction seemed not to have registered: a sandwich made from soft white bread with mystery stuff inside, two tiny bottles of over sweetened Tang and a cup of tea. A little Thai or Chinese girl entertained us for a while waiting for her grandparents to wake up. We rehearsed colors in English and she helped me with my iPad puzzle – moving the pieces with her finger to her great delight. She babbled on and we talked back in English, smiling and getting smiles.

I concluded that it had indeed been a great adventure. We had spent a very comfortable night, more comfortable than business class in a plane – all this in 2^nd class. And now we are in Chinatown in Bangkok in the Shanghai Mansion boutique hotel, ready to have a great meal.