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Moves

More gardening yesterday, despite the rain – it’s a good time to put things in the ground. We bought squash, tomatoes, tomatillos, cucumbers and some annuals at Tendercrop Farms in Newbury. Being that close to Chuck and Anne, innkeepers at the Water Street Inn in Newburyport, we stopped by to see them and check out how they and the inn are doing. They are noticing the economic down turn as well and for the first time have plenty of openings for this summer.

I missed the BU graduation, and thus did not get to see Nuha in her graduation robes. I thought I had already missed it last week, having extended my stay in Kabul. She will be moving back as an MPH to Saudi Arabia soon. I will miss her. We never got to do all the flying that we had imagined. I have a standing invitation to go camping with her in the desert. It’s on my list of destinations.

Our Canadian guests, Steve’s cousin Andrew and his girlfriend Britney, drove back to Ontario early this morning after a whirlwind weekend tour of Cape Ann under the expert guidance of Tessa. We celebrated Andrew’s 21st birthday last night with a 1000 calorie cheesecake from the cheesecake factory, decorated, as if it needed more calories, with crushed snickers bars and whipped cream. It was his choice of course. snickers_cheesecake

But the really big news today is that I submitted my application for a job in Kabul on our Afghanistan project as Technical Director for Management and Leadership. If get it, it means Axel and I will move to Kabul in September. We should know in about a month whether I got the job or not.

Bitten and smitten

I got my first mosquito bite of the season. It produced a huge welt on my forehead, as if someone had hit me with a baseball bat. It will serve as an inoculation against the many bites that will follow.

It was a mosquito that lived at the airport of Orange, MA, where Bill and I landed in the middle of the morning. It was a glorious blue sky kind of day, without wind, perfect for parachuting which is taught and practiced there. We watched the sky divers for a while; a wonderful sight as they twirled downward with their brightly colored parachutes. A grey haired gentleman stood by the fence intently watching the plane circling upwards for another round of jumping. I asked him whether he wanted to do that himself self and he answered yes in a way that indicated this was an impossible dream. Sigh.

I never felt a great desire in my adult life to do this kind of jumping although Axel and I did jump of a mountain in the French Alps, some years ago, on the back of our instructors. But somehow that’s different from jumping out of a plane at 5000 feet.

As a child I had a poster by my bedside that was developed by the Dutch dairy industry (or may be the Dutch Ministry of Public Health) to increase milk consumption by kids. Every time I drank a glass of milk I was allowed to cross off a small white glass in rows and rows of such glasses. Around the edges of the poster were pictures of various professionals with glasses of milk in their hands. There were only very few pictures of women in the poster (the nurse, the sales girl and the teacher) but one stood out: a young woman in a skydiving outfit. She became my heroine. I wanted to be like her and I drank all my milk to make that happen. Sometime during adolescence I lost that fervor and skydiving lost its appeal.

Bill and I took off from Beverly airport under special VFR because of the wall of clouds coming our way from the ocean. Westwards all was clear and sunny but we had to get through the wispy clouds and so I got to experience flying under stricter rules. Since it was new to me Bill did all the radio work. On the way back Bill had to request IFR clearance to land at Beverly and I was happy he was the pilot. I had already decided that an instrument rating is not something I am eager to do quite yet, and yesterday’s landing confirmed that; too complicated, and too much work.

In between the departing and arriving at Beverly I did a few landings at Gardner. This remains a tense experience for me, especially when I come in too fast and too high – but with coach Bill by my side (and Arne earlier) I have been doing pretty decent landings at my former crash site.

I made my usual phone call to Axel (‘the eagle has landed’) and drove home to see him mow the grass with his new machine as if it was actually fun (and fast). And then we drove to Gloucester to pick up a present for Molly and Brandon who were re-celebrating their marriage, about a year after the original ceremony – for friends and family in their old stomping ground of Salem. We picked a book of children’s stories by Virginia Lee Burton (from Folly Cove Designers fame) not knowing that a baby is on its way. We spent the evening with them, family and friends at the magnificent Hawthorne hotel in downtown Salem to celebrate unions, friendships and new life.

Pushing time

I am pushing the ending (mostly) and the starting times (hardly)of the day further out. I go to bed a little later each day and get up before anyone else does. It is vacation and weekend so starting the day a little later is better.

Yesterday morning I witnessed the arrival time of two travelers from Canada, Steve’s cousin and his girlfriend, who had travelled through the night westwards over the Upstate NY Thruway and the Mass Pike. When they arrived Lobster Cove was waking up and at its best: chirping birds, fragrant lilacs and lilies of the valley, a quiet cove and a deep blue sky– there is no better place to arrive after 12 hours in a car.

After they went to bed Steve left for work, Tessa settled in for work in her studio and I have no recollection of what I did after that. The only thing I have to show for yesterday is a slightly emptier emailbox, the new crown, a few less kinks in my muscles, a pile of Afghan shirts hemmed and thus now less likely to unravel in the wash, and the potatoes and lettuce in the ground.

In the process of planting we found some of the potatoes I had missed in my search last fall by their newly sprouted leaves. If we had had these potatoes for dinner our meal would have been entirely from our own land (and water): the striped sea bass Axel caught on Wednesday, arugula salad and potatoes.

And now it is time to sort out where Bill and I are flying to this morning.

Sleepy

I have been alerted by a faithful reader that I skipped an entry for today. I didn’t think there was much to say after the excitement of Afghanistan, the ski slope of Dubai and Dutch cheese.

Who cares that I had a new crown put in this morning, followed by an exquisite Abi massage (compliments of Axel) and then lobster salad for lunch on the terrace of the new restaurant in town?

But the salad was too much and I feel bloated and sleepy. Axel says that I should get up and walk and exercise but my body wants to sleep. I have been up since 5 AM so I think I am entitled to a nap. I’ll let Axel put the potatoes in while I rest my eyes for awhile.

New England spring

New England spring can compete with Kabul spring – it’s just a little behind. It was wonderful to come home. Axel led me around the yard to see what had changed since I left. I ate asparagus right out of the asparagus bed –it doesn’t need any cooking. The garden is ready for the potatoes and chard; the parsley that survived the winter is already twice as big and the broccoli, also a survivor can be eaten right out of the garden as well.

We went for a walk, got a demo of Axel’s new high-powered toy (a second hand lawn mower), unpacked the presents (many of Tessa’s rings did not fit her), aired the two carpets, had dinner and I went to bed at 7 PM. While I was asleep Axel got a striper and Chicha had her first fishing experience which brought out the wild Dingo in her.

This morning the day is even more beautiful than yesterday. It’s great to be back home.

Afghan angst, Saudi comfort and a sick puppy

A dark dream and dreary images from the Dutch ‘hunger winter’ indicate that there is some anxiety about my upcoming trip to Kabul. You’d think that by now I would be a hardened traveler. I am in some ways and not in others. It may have something to do with my destination and the fact that I have only the vaguest idea what I will be doing in Kabul this time.

Yesterday morning I made no headway with my reference checks in Ethiopia. I suspect they also have a second Easter day, like in Holland, except Ethiopian Christians are of the Orthodox kind and celebrated their Easter this weekend. Monday the 20th may have been a holiday. I am trying again this morning and got up early for that reason. The workday ends there in a few hours.

sickpuppyTessa and Steve have their first experience of having a sick puppy in the house while needing to go to work. Chicha has pulled a muscle, probably because she did a little too much retrieving with everyone throwing balls and Frisbees for her to catch over the weekend. She spent the day lying on one bed or another looking sad and pathetic. Lucky she has two doting parents and another two doting grandparents. I never think of dogs being sick. No one went for a walk yesterday.

I worked a bit, packed a bit and started some seedlings, hoping that at least something would be ready for planting when I get back. I also cut the potatoes in pieces with a bunch of eyes each and, as per instructions, left them out to dry before planting. I did not check the asparagus progress as I was told a watched asparagus does not grow.

In the evening Axel and I drove to Nuha and her brother who live in a student apartment in Cambridge, he a marketing sophomore at Suffolk, she about to graduate from Boston University with a master’s in public health, this May.

The meal consisted of Saudi comfort food: Makaroni bi Béchamel and something that sounds like Djerish and is like a savory oatmeal porridge. saudicomfortThe meal was wedged in between a light but very spiced coffee and dates before and sweetened tea with apple crisp (comfort of the New England type) afterwards. Nuha is trying to learn as many New England dishes as she can before she heads back home in June. Cooking fruit, like apples, is one of the odd American cooking ideas she has now gotten used to.

We watched a series of YouTube videos about an American visiting Saudi Arabia (No Reservations) and heard stories about what Saudis do for fun – camping is one of those things. It can be done with or without all the comforts and distractions of daily life – like here – but without woods and trees it is quite different from what we consider camping over here. We were both invited to experience it first hand – I would be drinking tea and singing with all the other women, sitting around the campfire while Axel and the guys would be preparing a goat dinner and then cruising the sand dunes in powerful vehicles. Good thing they don’t allow alcohol.

In between

I am now at the place where I have to finish current work and prepare for the upcoming trip, my own personal continental divide. It is the moment I start looking ahead and my mind starts to make mental notes on what to buy, and pack, but it also is busy making mental notes of what, amidst the mass of papers and tasks, has to be checked off by tonight.

Needless to say it is a somewhat stressful time and my home office shows it, with stuff on the ground and all horizontal space occupied. I have stopped putting things away, thinking that I will get to it later. But this ‘later’ is getting pushed out further and further. Now I think it will be when I get back from my next trip, sometime early May.

I heard on Friday that I don’t have to take the plane from Dubai to Addis but can travel home as we are not quite ready for the start up of our Ethiopian project. I am happy about this because it means I will be back in time to have some of the asparagus that are beginning to poke through the surface.

Yesterday we had our 24th annual Easter party and one of the biggest spreads in the ages of people that we ever had. If our youngest guest will get as old as the oldest present yesterday, we would cover the period from about 1916 to about 2113 for birth years. This is ‘the present’ that Elize Boulding refers to when she uses the word – a concept of time that makes you realize we have come a long way in the present. It makes me less impatient about things taking time to change.

Today I am checking references in Ethiopia, send in a proposal for the Ghanaian health system to get back in touch with itself and check out the weather in Kabul in addition to lining up doctor’s appointments for when I return. And after that I will haul the suitcase up and cover the remaining empty spot on the floor with clothes, work stuff and gifts that will travel with me to Afghanistan tomorrow night.

Air and land

A fox that cleaned out its litter, washed the pillows that lined his burrow in a nearby stream and then let them dry in the sun; this was one character in my very elaborate dream. I would have shown a picture if I had gotten my own camera in time; but instead I had taken Axel’s empty camera pouch. I walked out of what had become a building rather than open air to get my own camera, leaving Tessa behind with the promise of being back soon.

In the meantime a series of shiny cars and secret service folks arrived. They closed the building and asked everyone to stand back. I abandoned the camera idea and rushed back but guards blocked the entrance. I pleaded to be let in because my daughter was inside. Eventually they agreed and I got back in.

Upstairs I joined the dinner party of a visiting senator from Omaha who was in a wheelchair and surrounded by handlers. He had visited a war zone, Beirut or Kabul, some war-torn place. Dinner was served as soon as everyone was seated, in front of a blazing fire. I sat next to his bodyguard who had two business cards, one for work and one for private. I think he gave me his private one.

Tessa would have sat next to the senator if she hadn’t been asked to relocate just minutes before the good man arrived. Dinner was short and swift. There was no debriefing about what the senator had seen. Even in my dreams I have my facilitator hat on, so I noticed that.

Then I woke up, very sore from hours of raking the debris in our wild backyard, to make it pretty for our annual party today that is held on or close to Greek or Christian Easter – and always in celebration and contemplation of spring, new beginnings, and significant events in our lives.

Yesterday morning I went to the flight center for a short outing in the air, joining Bill who had just passed his bi-annual flight review. This is a FAA requirement for pilots of any type which I will have to do next January to make sure I don’t forget how to do the maneuvers that I was drilled on so much during flight training. These are maneuvers that Bill and I don’t usually do on our long cross country flights, so a review every two years is not a bad idea. After all, you learn them for a reason.

Since Bill had already flown a full hour, I got to pilot both ways and he got to enjoy the ride up and down the New Hampshire and Maine coast. It was glorious to see the landscape below us waking up from a long winter, still mostly colorless but with patches here and there of grass coming to life.

I flew into Portland to practice entering and leaving class C airspace. This class of airspace has a much more rigorous communication protocol than the class D and E airspaces we usually fly in and out of. The rigor has to do with the nature and volume of commercial air traffic: planes that fly on a schedule, jets that produce vortices that really mess up the air behind them, high speeds and a layout of intersecting runways. The combination is potentially lethal thus requiring the alert eyes of air traffic controllers and the strict compliance of pilots. I made one mistake when I forgot to ask for permission, after having cleared the active runway, to taxi to a building for a pit stop. This earned me a stern reprimand from the tower. I don’t think I will make that mistake again.

Back home we called all hands (Steve’s, Tessa’s and our own) on deck to rake – it’s a big job. Chicha required an occasional Frisbee or ball throw and then managed to dive into the piles of leaves, scattering them again. Reward for our hard labor was dinner in a new local restaurant where we found many other local folks checking out the place as well.

Sorry for Y

I finished reading (or rather listening to) Bryan Sykes’ book ‘Adam’s Curse,’ and when I returned it to the library I understood dumb male behavior: it’s all because of the degenerating Y chromosome.

Sykes is not only a genetics professor at Oxford University but also a bestselling author. He traced European women back to their first 7 mothers (or aunties) through the study of mitochondrial DNA (The Seven Daughters of Eve). Now he is tracing the journeys of the Y chromosomes and because he is a man himself he can be brutally honest about the sorry state of the sex. In a delightful interview in the New York Times some years ago, he talks about his discoveries about the Y chromosome, which he calls ”a graveyard of rotting genes.”

Since the Y chromosome passes unchanged from one generation to the next – it doesn’t recombine (the mother doesn’t have one) it can never fix its own defects. Moreover, those Y chromosomes that belong to the winners (think force, wealth and many women) get passed on more than those belonging to poor losers. Thus, the survival of the Y chromosome has been directly linked to the kind of aggressive male behavior that has wrought havoc with the world. Hence the title of the book.

Sykes maintains that the world would be better off without males. He thinks it will take another 100 to 200 thousand years for the Y chromosome to completely self destruct. By then we will have figured out how to reproduce without the Y chromosome and every new baby will be a girl.

So now, each time I see men do stupid things (including those in my own household who I love dearly), I feel sorry for them and chalk it up to their defective Y chromosome. And lately I have seen some really stupid male behavior around me, on TV (watch Super Nanny for a few episodes), and in the newspapers.

When Bonnie gave me my haircut yesterday and talked about her abusive husband and son I told her that it is just a matter of time before that line of an obviously very defective Y chromosome will come to the end of the road.

Social tourist

One of the best things of my life is that I get to travel to so many different places and move around in so many different social circles. From a religious organization’s local office in the tiny red light district of a small provincial capital in Cambodia, to the fancy and well appointed office of the well dressed chief of the Ethiopian national AIDS commission, to the small open air bar run by a woman who is infected with HIV in rural Ivory Coast.

Or the residence of the Dutch ambassador to NATO, in Brussels, with the porcelain table ware and the silverware with Holland’s official coat of arms on which meals were served; the luxury hotel where Bush stayed when he was in Tanzania with the staff still abuzz about the experience with secret service agents and the slums of Dhaka with dwellings the size of a king size bed and small open spaces that serve as communal kitchens, while open gutters are stagnant with a dangerous looking brew. The list is endless and the contrast between places and lifestyles is huge.

Yesterday I visited two places, geographically near each other that could not be farther apart socially. After work I went with a few colleagues to listen to a presentation by students from various faculties of Boston University about their work in a hard hit community in Dorchester. The initiative came from a medical student who felt that the complex needs of a struggling community should be addressed not in a piecemeal fashion by super specialized experts but in a trans-disciplinary way and that universities have an obligation to bring their collective intellectual powers together to serve real people and help them untangle the complexities of living in a society that doesn’t understand their needs.

Marcel has mobilized students who are on their way to become doctors, educators and lawyers, and approached us about using our leadership development materials in a semester long service learning project. The students got to see how piecemeal expert assistance obfuscates the large systemic issues that keep producing the problems that hold people back. Together with people from the community they looked for ways to improve physical, social and fiscal health of the members of the community.

After getting terribly lost and going from one end of Boston to the other, we finally arrived at the community health center where the health council board was meeting in the basement, finishing its business for the day. Sitting in the back we got to observe a local community in action, or rather its activists, and listened to the reporting on various initiatives; one of them about getting fresh produce into the community through personal initiatives and a farmers’ market that sells shares for weekly baskets of whatever is in season.

Finally it was the students’ turn and each spoke about why he or she was there and how the project has changed their perspective. They were very passionate about the experience and their purpose in life. Several people from the area were present as well and exposed the kind of thinking in communities that are ‘helped’ that is not always visible to the helper, let alone shared with them. Some of the feedback was positive and some negative; it was a refreshing frank and open exchange.

After that I dropped my colleagues off at various places along the way as I made my way back into Boston to the Harvard Club for entrance in an entirely different social circle. Our friend Ellie had received, by way of a birthday present, a dinner with her closest friends at the Harvard Club and Axel and I were invited (but Axel was at his printing class and so I went alone). The group consisted predominantly of real estate people from the Manchester-Hamilton area, most retired just in time before the housing crisis hit, and all quite well off.

I did not get to find out what the few non real estate people were doing for a living, except that there was an opera producer, someone who knows about mushrooms and supports the Rotary’s polio eradication program (and whose father’s name was on a plaque on the wall, a past notable of the Club).

And then there was, Bill, my delightful dinner partner. Bill’s passion and profession is to make women look good. I learned some things from him that I should have learned years ago: even if a dress or skirt is lined one should always wear a slip because (a) if there is a backlit photo made the lining will be transparent (so true as I tucked my lined dress closer around my legs) and (b) the dress or skirt will drape better. I had no idea!

Bill goes around speaking to garden clubs and ‘accessorizes’ (yes, this is a verb) women’s ‘ little black dresses’ with corsages (he is also a florist), jewelry, scarves, belts and whatnot. He got started on this venture after seeing an exhibit about Coco Chanel at the MOMA and concluded that her classic dressing style was timeless and needed a comeback. He was appalled about how badly women were dressing. I also learned that corsages are used to draw attention away from body parts that should not be looked at.

Although he still sells flowers and arrangements from his shop in Salem, he would not be able to sustain this nowadays. Florists are going out of business at an alarming rate because of the competition from supermarkets or home improvement stores (don’t even consider that cheap bouquet at the check out counter!). His accessorizing and speaking tours allow him to go on nice vacations to Europe with his partner (one of the realtors) and be driven around in limos. It is rare that I meet a man whose convoluted career path (he has a degree in ceramics from UNH) resembles that of women. I suspect it stood in sharp contrast to the careers of most men around the table.

I was the first to leave the party, having been up since 4:30 AM. During my drive home, I contemplated these two widely differing social circles that I had looked into as a bystander, belonging to neither, like a social tourist. How boring it would be to be confined to only one circle.


January 2026
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