Archive for the 'On the road' Category



The art of the question

We are doing a heavily compressed leadership development program; instead of 12 days over 4 months, we have people for 4.5 days only.

Yesterday I was primarily a coach for the two facilitators, giving feedback, fine-tuning the design and reviewing the work products. I was also the typist, typing up several flipcharts which gave me a feel for the thinking of the participants.

Today I was more of a trainer, exploring people’s experiences with social phenomena such as influence, change, overcoming obstacles to achieve things of importance, then providing frameworks to hang their experiences on.

One of the things we taught the participants is to ask ‘why?’ often. We trained them well because they are now constantly asking the question. Practice makes perfect.

Charlets

After lunch we walked up the street to see if I could get an internet dangle because there is no internet in the hotel. We didn’t succeed-I would have to go back to Maseru or to South Africa to find it. I will have to make do with my smart phone which picks up private but not work email, and hope it lets me post. It’s a strange experience to be unplugged like this for several days. At least I have TV in my room which brought me more discouraging news from Afghanistan.

I am lodged in one of the brand-new chalets (written ‘ charlets’ on the white board at the reception) at the lower end of the hotel’s hillside estate. The chalets are the latest extension to the hotel that seems to be doing a booming business catering to organizations that do workshops. Three workshops are going on at the same time.

The new chalets (and may be the older rooms as well) are of the ‘ builder-designed’ type -I don’t think an architect or hotel planner was involved. The hotel owner is in the construction business, I learned later.

The chalets have their majestic pillared fronts alternating facing towards the green space next to the pool and upper level accommodations, and backwards, facing the concrete perimeter wall at a few meter distance. I wondered about the decision making process that led to this odd arrangement.

Inside my chalet the room is spacious.There is a wide cabinet for hanging clothes (one hanger) but no drawers or places to put folded clothes unless you pull up the rickety patio chair to reach the spaces above the clothes closet. A small desk tucked in between the window and the closet would be the workspace but there is no electrical outlet anywhere near it to plug in a task light or a computer.

There is also a sort of kitchenette with a water kettle but to plug it in you have to cross the room and crouch down on the ground where there is an outlet.

The bathroom wanted to be fancy but the door bangs into the bathtub each time I open it.The bathroom mirror was hung in such a way that all the tiles chipped, leaving four large holes at the corners and requiring extra nails, sloppily pounded, in to hold the mirror in place. How mirrors are hung is, I think, a good indicator of quality craftsmanship and pride in work well done, everywhere in the world.

But the bed was comfy and I got a good night sleep after watching Dustin Hoffman and Emma Thompson find love on a tiny TV screen mounted high on a bare wall across from the bed. A space heater, with it’s plastic controls melted, kept the room temperature comfortable after the night chill set in.

Protected: Lesotho

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Looking for right answers

I practically live in planes these days. I am getting very good at ‘grin and bear it.’ After two very full plane rides (an upgrade for the first one – seven hours including a lot of sleep – and a downgrade in the second – 10 hours and no sleep), I arrived in a cool South Africa. Daytime here is like Como and Manchester but night time is a bit cooler. It was 11 degrees Celsius.

I was whisked off to a palatial structure, formerly the grandiose home of a couple which, I was told, felt a little too grandiose after they split up and was turned into a B&B.  I am sleeping in a room with a wildlife motif – scary looking monkeys raiding a baobab tree in the bathroom, grooming monkeys as lampstands and leopard skin curtains. A grand  (everything in this place merits the adjective ‘grand’) terrace looks out over the city from the hillside suburb of Waterkloof.

I hardly had time to explore the place. A sign said there was a spa but I won’t know about it. Before I knew it the alarm went off, I had breakfast and it was off to work with my colleague Megh from Lesotho. We are flying there tomorrow.

I spent most of the day with the senior management team interviewing candidates for the deputy project director position.  One interview was in person, one on a fairly good skype line and the other on an even better Cisco line; still there were periodic outages which made the process a little more tedious, especially for someone just off the plane. I tried to hide my yawns in the afternoon and made myself a cup of very strong coffee – that stopped the yawning.

Getting the right person for the job with everyone agreeing on who is most ‘right’ is tricky when there are so many different needs and expectations.  I wrote down my observations, as an outsider, and will await the decision with great curiosity.

I sampled my first good South African wine of this trip during dinner with two colleagues – the wine will certainly help with a second night of catch-up sleep.

Tomorrow we take off for Lesotho, bypassing the capital for the town of Leribe, a rather depressed place I remember from my last trip when we drove through it – memories of abandoned Chinese textile factories and high school kids in their starched uniforms – wondering what will happen to them after they graduate – where would they go?

In between the meetings I managed to do my first quiz of the Model Thinking course.  I had to revisit several lectures to feel confident enough to press the submit button. I got a 7.5 for 12 answers – something like a C minus I figured – which left me quite proud. Imagine answering questions like this: In the game of life, a world begins with 4 cells in a row in the alive state, and no other cells alive. After 20 updates, what state is the world in? (In other words, which cells are alive at this point?) – I got that one wrong; and this: How many possible preference orderings exist for four alternatives? These orderings must satisfy transitivity. I got that one right. Clap, clap.

The next four lectures are up – I will continue even though it is, mathematically speaking, a bit of a stretch for my mind. Its neural connections for mathematics are rather thin after 4 decades of inactivity.

Picturesque

And so we boarded our planes and left for Italy, in two batches – one through Amsterdam to Milan’s Linate airport, the other through Newark to Milan’s Malpensa airport.

After a smooth tailwind ride from Boston to Amsterdam to Milan, it took us several hours to get from there to Bellagio. We had given the kids our Dutch navigation system – which got them to the right place even before we had left the airport.

For our direction we relied on my smart phone’s navigator which wasn’t all that smart and led us astray in very bad Italian English, away from Bellagio, up into the alps, higher and higher, though tunnel after tunnel, driving slowly behind groaning trucks.  When the signs for Bellagio had long since disappeared, and we started to get hungry, what with all those pizzerias every 100 yards, we decided to ask and were pointed back to where we came from with a compassionate smile.

After a harrowing ride over a road that should have been a one way street we arrived in Bellagio but our navigator lost its signal and with that we were lost.  Luckily Bellagio is small and we chanced upon the right street and found the kids had already made the place their own

It is a sleek duplex, furnished in sleek  IKEA-esque style – bright fabrics and light wood.  Like a chunk of clay, the street/small village that is our address for the next 10 days, seemed to be molded onto the mountain that rises out of the fork of Lake Como.  It is picturesque beyond description.

The entrance to our villa took us past the Asilo Infantile and then over ever narrowing cobblestoned alleyways into a small enclave of houses (a family compound?) with large inviting dining tables and doors and windows wide open. We met Rosa and Mario after meeting our landlords Antonella and Pino.

We are on the outskirts of Bellagio but since Bellagio is rather small, outskirts means you can walk to the shore and to the center and lakefront.

The walk takes you down a cobblestoned path, along houses that whisper ‘watercolor me.’  The steep walk goes along and through orchards and loaded fig trees.  We behaved and didn’t take what was not ours, our mouths watering. We have to find the fig market.

We walked down to the Sporting Club with its swimming pool, pool tables, great beer and pizza and melon with Parma ham.  Our landlord had called ahead to make sure we would be expected. A table set for five stood ready for us. After airplane meals we were craving something more substantive and tasty, something very Italian: a variety of pizzas, local beers and that Parma ham melon appetizer.

Too tired to walk back up the steep path we sent the men up to fetch the car and then drove to the waterfront, the center of town. It is the place where the ferries land and where the stately hotels welcome tourists and locals alike to their terraces. Most of the tourists seem to have gone now, which is fine by us.

From our living and bedrooms, we look out over Lake Como and its shores that are dotted with southern France style stucco houses with much iron work and cypresses, standing tall and straight, like guards in perpetual attention.

Because Sita’s work starts tomorrow we met for dinner with former colleagues of mine who are forming the facilitation team of which Sita is a part. Tired beyond belief, she trooped along and didn’t fall with her face in the ravioli while Faro obligingly slept through the entire meal. We left Tessa and Jim at home, figuring out the wifi hotspot gizmo we had rented and taking care of urgent business.

I think we are going to like it here.

Jolly sardines

I had hoped to be able to exchange some of my many miles for an upgrade for the 15 hour flight to Jo’burg, finally having the required fare base, but I was out of luck because every seat was taken. And so I sat in the back of an overbooked plane.

A mother with a four month old baby sat in back of me, with the baby kicking against my back while I was trying to fall asleep. He had a few crying fits in the beginning of the flight. I was dreading the next 14 hours but he fell asleep as did I.  At the end, when we left the plane, everyone sitting around the baby complimented the mom about his good behavior. It could have been a lot worse.

I don’t know why so many people go to cold South Africa from warm Atlanta or other parts of sunny America. The flight was full of kids, from babies to teenagers. I was curious about their stories but only got the one from my section, a film crew, two missionaries and an oil man.

Everyone was in a good mood and no one seemed to mind the fact that we were packed in like sardines, even the big guys and heavy ladies – I did not hear one complaint.

I passed the hours, sleeping a bit, reading a bit and watching an entire series of TED videos, more satisfying than the few films I tried but gave up on. I actually like to watch other peoples’ screens; I don’t care about the sound when the movie is of the action or violent genre. My neighbor watched several Rocky films and on the other side of the aisle a young kid was watching a whole bunch of destructive transformers at work while the beautiful heroine in the white blouse remained spotless despite buildings, cars and flying objects crashing on or around her.

It was still light when we landed in Jo’burg but by the time I arrived at my hotel in Pretoria it was dark. Charles the office driver picked me up and he filled me in on what’s happening in South Africa: the election of a South African woman to the African Union’s presidency, schoolbooks that, half a year into the school year, have still not been delivered in Limpopo province and winter weather in the Eastern Cape with passes closed due to snow, and flooding further down. It’s weird to see snow ploughs at work in July.

The hotel is a block from the office and across the street are liquor stores and fast food joints.  Finding healthy food is going to be a challenge once more.

Excursion

I had gotten up at 3 AM to get a 6 AM flight to Washington for a two day meeting. I could have gone the night before but with the baby coming, any moment now, I decided to keep my time in DC to the absolute minimum. Any other time I would have taken advantage of seeing friends (yes you Larry) and indulge in the luxuries of the wonderful Westin hotel; but not now.

As a result of my early rise this morning I started fading rapidly at 8:30 PM while still in the company of a young Indian colleague who I had gotten to know in Kabul, with his wife and darling little girl who just turned 2 and was born while we were still in Kabul.

I had knitted her a little bunny made from authentic Afghan goat hair – sturdy and a little scratchy. I was touched to see her holding the bunny close to her heart. Two years of wear and tear had softened it a bit but it was every bit as solid as the day it was finished. I can just imagine this bunny making it into the next generation. Wouldn’t that be nice?

All during the day I luxuriated into the kind of intellectual exercise – discussing junior and senior leadership programs – that we had very little time for when I was still in Afghanistan – but that I now remember as being among the more fun HQ activities. How one forgets.

During the breaks I had wanted to socialize, swing by offices of colleagues I hadn’t seen in a long time but a deadline for a proposal draft review trumped that until the end of the workday. I had been able to complete the review during the breaks and so was able to join a few colleagues for a drink after work, and then dinner with my Indian colleague and his wife and daughter.

After dinner we went for a stroll through the neighborhood. I had forgotten what a summer evening in the city was like. Everyone was out, young and old, enjoying the green spaces from benches that were everywhere, even though we were in the middle of a high rise neighborhood. I counted once more my blessings of being in a peaceful place; no guns, blast walls or well-funded evil empires.

Axel called to say there had been no action on the baby front and so I hope to squeeze in another day with my Washington colleagues before heading home tomorrow evening; then baby Bliss can come.

Back in the hotel I realized I had gotten an upgrade (I prefer to get these on flights) with all sorts of luxuries I didn’t need, such as an all-in-one printer/copier/scanner and a gadget to help me relax, offering choices between the sound of rain, a summer evening, rainforest, a waterfall, ocean and heartbeat. The latter was a little creepy.   I choose ‘ocean’ so I could pretend to be in Lobster Cove but it was an ocean sounds that was not from here, more Caribbean than Massachusetts Bay. It also got to be old quickly as the loop was very short, with the same seagulls flying by my bed over and over again.

Transit

The strike was over and with that the streets clogged again. Fatima had promised to take me out for a farewell lunch. It took an hour longer to get to my hotel.

We decided to find a place within walking distance despite the heat. We found a Japanese/Chinese/Korean restaurant. I suggested we try bi-bim-bap so that Fatima could sample the food of the country she will be visiting soon for a consultancy. But first she has to pass her bio statistics exam.

And now I am in Dubai again where I ran into some Afghan friends; now a couple, he a former colleague she one of the leadership facilitators I trained. Small world.

Eight hours later Amsterdam, with a searing pain in my shoulder and an achy left ankle. I am not in great shape to travel another eight hours.

Something good

With five members of the facilitation team, we spent the morning in the large and empty hall we had rented pretending that the workshop was actually happening. I facilitated the program with them as participants. We did a micro version of the workshop and it succeeded in making the design come alive for the team. They realized that cutting the workshop in two parts – one of our previous plans – would not have been a good idea as ownership and energy would have been compromised.

In the end we agreed that we should start afresh in July, after the government’s new fiscal year has started and the frenzy of end-of-year spending subsided.  We discussed how to move from alignment to leadership training and moving the common agenda forward. It’s an exciting combination of activities I love to do.

Rumors are circulating about the strike being extended even longer. I have heard of evaluation and fact finding missions that have come, and left again after having been waiting in hotels and guesthouses for the hartal to end, not able to see or interview any of the people on their lists.  One of those teams in town was from the ‘What to Expect Foundation’ (from ‘what to expect when you are expecting’ fame); such irony. I was told they returned home.

Now, after the brief training this morning and seeing the enthusiasm of the local team my trip felt not so useless any longer even though one could argue about the costs versus the benefits.

I was not the only one who had come from afar; a colleague from Johns Hopkins had flown in from Baltimore for the occasion. We decided to have our nails painted at a local spa so we’d had something to show for our stay in Dhaka.

For naught

There was more nastiness in a far north corner of Bangladesh and the strike has been extended one more day. This sealed the deal: the workshop was called off and with that my trip to faraway Bangladesh was for naught. When money is spent like that it is called the cost of doing business; when people travel halfway around the world for something that doesn’t happen it is called bad luck.

Tomorrow I will try to transfer as much of my facilitation skills as I can to would-be facilitators in an audience-less and window-less basement room of the hotel – paid for, and so presumably available to us, and stuffed with workshop materials, flipcharts, markers, even conference bags. A dry run so to speak.

I made a few escapes from the hotel, which is not a bad place to ride out a strike but still, having been here for days now without any action was getting a bit old. We went to a store nearby with my Johns Hopkins colleagues to admire the brightly colored fabrics and handmade crafts. I bought some cards that were recycled report covers, cut in small pieces and cleverly turned into appealing notecards. I also got some local music but since I didn’t carry my CD drive I won’t find out until I am back whether it is nice music. At least it is popular the shopkeeper told me and both old and young like it.

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Sayeed came to pick me up for a West Bengal lunch across the lake. Although he was not pleased with the quality of the food, I enjoyed it. We caught up on about 4 years of not seeing each other, new and old business and friends we have in common.

Later in the afternoon I took a rickshaw to the Dutch Club which is recognizable from a long distance by its bright and wide orange wall and red-blue-white painted gate. If anyone ever wants to pick on the Dutch, they are easy to find. My friend Ellen treated me to a Heineken and a Bangla version of a Dutch cocktail treat, bitterballen.

Ellen and I work in the same field, as does her husband. She is now working for one of my earlier employers. She and her boss had also been invited to the workshop and had already decided yesterday they could no longer attend because of the many missed days. That would probably have been true for many other stakeholders. Calling of the workshop was really the only sensible thing to do.


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