Archive for the 'On the road' Category



Attunement

A trip to South Africa took 7 days, nearly half of which was in transit. It’s one of those endless flights (from Atlanta to Johannesburg), where you have to remind yourself that the flight will eventually end. I tried to get myself upgraded on the way out there (failed), but succeeded on the wat home. The return flight was nearly 16 hours, two hours longer than the outbound one. Still, even in B-class the flight seemed endless.

I worked for just over a day with a dis-attuned team. I like the word dis-attuned better than all the other labels (dysfunctional disarrayed, problematic, toxic), because there is the promise of music in the word. Dis-attuned suggests that the team is not in harmony, each playing their own tune. During interviews with each before my trip I explored what music they were trying to make, what was on the sheet music in front of them. Once I knew, I could understand the dis-attunement. They were playing altogether different tunes. No wonder the melody didn’t come through.

The retreat was partially about the team getting its work done and partically about its leadership, collectively and individually. I have simplified my definition of leadership – a leader is simply an aware human being. Being aware applies as much to myself as to the other. It means that we can catch ourselves when our intent and impact don’t match. Being aware means that we recognize when we are sabotaging ourselves, when our egos get in the way. Being aware also means that we see the humanity in the other, behind the labels, judgments, professional persona, representative of this or that class/tribe/organization/culture, etc.  

Working on all this is how we spent the day and a quarter. When I left to fly home, on the interminable long flight to Atlanta, then Boston, the team was at least able to hear the tunes the others were playing, not quite attuned, but a little bit closer.

Nearly ’round

There is a circle in the making. It’s turning out rather big, but not quite round, and not even a real circle as it isn’t closed. It is more like my 3 year old granddaughter’s attempt at a circle, the two ends, not ends when you think of a circle, coming close to each other, or maybe intersecting, missing their mark of becoming a circle. 

This is how my professional life tries to become a circle. I started re-reading authors who I had to read in the first few years as a student in psychology, people like Kegan, Klein, Freud, Bowlby, Adler, Erikson, Skinner, Thorndike. All of them had shaped the field of psychology and so I had to learn about them and then there was always a test. I did pass all the tests because I was good at memorizing. During the first few years of my study there were no videos, no collaborative projects, no experiential learning except for Physiology 101 where I had to dissect a frog, and stand on a block that was pulled from under me while a camera took the picture of my falling to record my reflexes kicking in.

The lectures, with 149 other students, in giant lecture halls were didactic, my studying was based on memorizing facts and frameworks. Development in pedagogy since then recognized that this was learning in an incomplete way. Facts and theories, without getting them anchored in personal experience, simply float away over the year. For years, I wondered whether I had wasted 7 years by picking a study that I could not use in my professional life as a program officer in international development. But that turned out to be a premature conclusion.

45 years, after my studies began I was offered an opportunity to learn to become a coach. I was hardly enthusiastic. I always had liked to work with groups, as a teacher, a trainer or a facilitator. Coaching individuals didn’t appeal that much to me. But the offer was too good to let pass – my employer was willing to pick up the tab, and so I said yes.

Learning to coach is first and foremost a learning journey into the self. It required for me to become aware of my behavioral patterns and determine which ones were helpful and which ones were not if I was serious about coaching.  Coaching individuals pushed me into a new orbit of learning and re-discovery. And so, 7 years after this journey started, here I am re-reading classic texts from my psychology studies and connecting the dots. I am recognizing that the call for vulnerability from Brené Brown is great, but it is not for everyone as I am learning in my early ventures into group and team coaching. And now I am on my way to South Africa to explore and discover some more.

Good luck for managing VUCA

I have known about the concept of VUCA for some time (Volatile, Uncertain, Chaotic  (or Complex) and Ambiguous). It has been a theoretical concept, only mildly expressed in my peaceful and protected life in Manchester by the sea. I didn’t really understand what VUCA means until our meeting this afternoon with the ICRC officer in charge of our security briefing. As he described the political situation in Mali, the letters VUCA flashed in front of my eyes.  There are so many factors at work, so many interests, so many weapons, so much unchartered territory, so much anger, so much disappointment, so much mistrust.  There is the vast Sahel, flooded with weapons drugs and the most desperate young people seeking a better life in Europe..and always people taking advantage of the misery of others to enrich themselves. And then there is a very divided governing elite, plus active religious partisans – I is hard to wrap your head around it.  

If ever I experienced a sense of doom it was in that otherwise sunny and nicely decorated office of the officer as I watched the map and our briefer’s finger tracing the parts of Mali that are now off limits and/or ungovernable.  I asked how he was managing to stay optimistic and do his work amidst so many distressing signals and events. A few weeks ago there was a massacre  of Fulani herders. Some 160 of them got killed. This followed after the Malian government cracked down on Islamic terror cells in the country. These terror cells have become more virulent and are spreading, like a cancer across national boundaries (including once considered peaceful Burkina Faso).  The white blood cells (the government’s forces) are supposed to attack these cells but they seem impotent. Militias are forming to fill the vacuum – ICRC is trying to figure out who is legitimate, with whom to establish relationships so it can continue to do its work.

The government didn’t hold, for this and other reasons; people are protesting in the streets, kids have lost a school year as teachers are striking and all the while ISIS is rebuilding its base in the desert – its new headquarters after Trump declared ISIS was conquered. It is not.  It is cultivating its force far away from its former bases in Syria and Iraq. There are signs that Sri Lanka’s sleeper cells were activated from here. The attacks can happen anywhere. This is what terror is about: fear it can happen here. Yet the American press is mostly preoccupied with the Mueller report. As if….

Bombs that can be activated by cell phones, and new mines are being placed in some parts of Mali. This will ensure that more people will lose their limbs and so the national rehab center I am working with this week can expect more and more people who need to learn to live without their God-given limbs. They will need prosthetists, physical therapists, orthopedic surgeons, social workers, wheelchairs, crutches and, most of all, a family support system. It is a very tall order for this government institution that is funded by public monies and, for now, considerable support from ICRC. It will need to wean itself from the latter, just when demand is like to grow, exponentially.

The demand is already exceeding the center’s capacity to deliver the services. A few new regional centers are being planned, some already under construction – but the question is, how can these centers be staffed, supplied and supervised in the face of increasing insecurity in the country. The cities, I am told, are still OK, but the roads servicing those cities are not. Soon it is planting time – but the seeds and fertilizers needed to plant the field need to come over the road – and others are eyeing the trucks for cheap supplies. It’s not just the war machine that is in full operation here – there is a settling of accounts, re-taking of fields and other goods some feel more entitled to than their current owners. I thought of Rwanda where the settling of accounts was as much a drive as the prevailing narrative of ethnic cleansing. I thought of how Kagame, enlightened dictator, has turned things around. A new Prime Minister is taking the helm this week. He has the unenviable (and maybe impossible) task to turn the tide of political turmoil, economic downturn, environmental degradation, insecurity, an enraged population and oppositional forces who want to see him fail. Good luck with the VUCA.

Habits

For three days I observed some 20 Senegalese, mostly pharmacists, wrestle with the complexity of the pharmaceutical supply chain. The chain requires that numerous actors, each with their own needs and motives, work flawlessly together to bring the medicines to the people who need them.

Aside from the actors there are also many places along the chain where things can go wrong, or not happen at all.  The last kilometer has become a bit of a rallying cry. It’s a concept that sounds simple but is very complex. When I asked why that last mile doesn’t see as many good quality products as it should, there were many opinions which led to heated debates.  Not knowing much about the supply chain, and not being a pharmacist, I focused on the dynamics between the teams to see whether some of the causes of the problems could be traced to the way the talked with each other.  So I held up a mirror from time to time and things quieted down and there was a pause for reflection.

To the puzzled looks of the hotel staff I had said I wanted the chairs placed in front of the tables, set up in U form, not in back. I explained that the tables formed a barrier between the participants and that it also invited people to place their laptops and (multiple) phones on the tables so they could monitor incoming emails and text messages. This is the new addiction of our times (“let me check my phone to see if anyone, anywhere, wants me for something.”)

After the initial surprise about the setup people sat down. But before we started they had already placed their phones and laptops on their knees – habits are hard to break. We discussed how we were going to work together these three days. They agreed that having various devices open was not such a good idea. One by one the laptops disappeared. The phones was another story. I had made sure that no one had a relative in a hospital somewhere, or was close to dying or giving birth,. Despite the commitments, cellphones kept ringing, people answered them, and many couldn’t help themselves to check messages regularly.

Back where home was

I am back in Senegal. I was last here fourteen years ago, when, accompanied by the girls and Axel, we celebrated our 25th wedding anniversary. However, it had been 40 years since I was last at the hotel I am staying at now. It was called Le Meridien then. My parents stayed here when we lived in Dakar. The hotel is now named after a Saudi King. 

It is located in what was a quiet but windy part on the northern side of Cap Vert where Dakar is located, in a small village called Les Almadies. A tiny little restaurant built on the rocks, with not much of an inside, offered simple lunches, fish, brochettes, frites. While waiting for the food to arrive (never fast), we walked on the black rocks looking for treasures. There was very little construction here and other than the Meridien, nothing tall.

Now the US embassy is here, with countless other embassies and well-guarded residences of people who did well, either because they bought land here all these years ago, or got their wealth from connections to a previous president and his circle of cronies. Or maybe they won the lottery. 

The airport is now far away from Dakar. It has the allure of a modern airport. It is still clean and organized. Entering the country was a breeze – no lines for the visa counter. The visa is free and is issued in no time: four fingers on the reader, a look in the camera, and stamp-stamp and I was in. The luggage part was not so efficient – it took an hour for my bag to arrive and by then half of all passengers were still waiting for theirs.

Once again, the driver who was supposed to pick me up was not there but, unlike my experience in Zambia, two months ago, this time I was prepared. I had the driver’s number and the name of the hotel. A nice young man named Mounir saw me looking, and looking. He offered to help. He called the driver who told Mounir someone else was at the airport, not with my name on a piece of paper, but the name of the company. He clearly was not on his post when I came out. Mounir asked for a little something to compensate him for his services – not everyone is so altruistic. I gave him something that I thought was a lot for his two phone calls and walking me across the length of the arrival hall. He wanted more. I said I thought he was richly compensated and he backed off. It doesn’t hurt to try and I am sure he is often successful.  Eventually I was delivered, 3 hours after I landed, to my hotel on the other side of Dakar.

The hotel still has the same furniture in the rooms. It’s funny how I instantly recognized it. The hotel has a superficial glow of luxury and I am sure the prices are commensurate with that. But underneath are may signs of poor maintenance and surface cleaning. The breakfast food was, like the hotel, good looking only.  I am not a food snob but this I recognized as mass produced food with little attention to quality and freshness. The dining area feels like an airport restaurant – cavernous and noisy. There are many US military here, body-built guys who fill the gym with testosterone. Elections are only a few weeks off – observers are streaming in. The military are here, I suppose, because of Senegal’s proximity to the Sahara desert. Parts of the Sahel (the Sahara’s front yard) and the Sahara itself are crawling with bad people, drugs, arms and poor souls who want to get to Europe. I presume it is also a perfect training ground for new crops of terrorists as all the key ingredients are present: an unlimited and never ending supply of potential recruits (poor young men with no prospects), money, drugs, arms and an easily cultivated hate of the west and western life style.

Not so easy

The strategic planning process wasn’t entirely finished when my part of the contract had been completed. It’s hard to estimate how long something will take, as being stuck in the mud can take 15 minutes or two hours. And then there was the bi-continental arrangement and the technology challenges. On my departure day I was kept busy until the last minute to keep the process moving, but even so we weren’t done. The board and staff had some weighty things to discuss.

I did the fastest handover ever of the methodology I used the last two days to one of the board members who had the most intuitive understanding of what I was trying to do and had been my ally throughout. I had no doubt that she would bring the process to a satisfying closure.

Then it was times for a round of hugs and off to the airport with one of the drivers. I had interviewed him on my first day about his vision for the organization and the obstacles he saw to that vision. He was very articulate and had an intuitive grasp of organizational dynamics. Yet he was the driver and had not completed high school. I urged him to get his secondary school diploma and maybe even pursue a management degree. 

On the ride to the airport I learned that he and his wife had made a CD. They sing together. I had heard Zambian singing earlier on the radio and it reminded me of the four part harmony songs during long road trips in South Africa, eons ago. I bought two CDs, one for the board chair who had put so much faith in me after our initial interview when he hired me (although he admitted to being lost a few times during the retreat), and one for myself.

I asked the driver where he had gone to school. He was ‘from the village,’ as so many Africans would say, which meant he had gone to a rural government school. Schools in many African countries often have two shifts due to infrastructure limitations and teacher shortages. In Zambia the early morning shift started at 7AM.  I asked him what shift he was in (morning) and how far the school was. It was a 10 km walk. He had to get up at 5AM and then walk for several hours. During the rainy season he’d hunch over his books in a plastic bag to keep them dry – he would arrive soaking wet at school. Some kids lived in rented rooms near the school but his parents were too poor.

I thought about how easy my school years had been in comparison. In the first couple of grades I would take the bus and, after I had earned my traffic diploma, by bike. I would get soaking wet too but we had radiators where we could hang our wet sweaters and pants (girls were not allowed to wear pants except under a dress, so we could take them off and still be decent).It was humbling to think about how easy everything has been for me and what enormous sacrifices the majority of the world’s kids (and their parents) make to do the things we take for granted. I counted my blessings as I started my long way home.

Mud flats

After two very intense days I am humming John Denver’s Leaving on a Jet plane as my bag is (being) packed. It is early morning and the first rains have come. Raindrops stampede onto the corrugated metal roof. It took me a while to realize it was rain. Rain in Africa sounds so very much different than rain in Manchester by the sea. It sounds more violent, like a horde of people pounding on a big metal gate to be let in.

The two-day bi-continental strategic planning meeting is over. It was quite a rollercoaster ride. I have never used the ICA methodology bi-continentally with one team sitting in rooms in Lusaka and one team in Harpswell Maine. On the floor in our Zambia room there was a mess of cables and cords, speakers and computers and black boxes. Harpswell looked a little more organized but of course we couldn’t see the floor. They were sitting snugly, windows frosted, cold drizzle outside, cradling their cups of coffee to wake them up at 6:30AM their time while we were sweating it out in un- or poorly air-conditioned rooms at 1:30 after lunch. I don’t think I can imagine a bigger contrast.

On day one it took us an entire hour to get the connection right. On day two we did better although often either audio or video disappeared for a while.  Add to this that I was using a methodology with a group of people used to deductive planning, and needing a physical wall on which to put pieces of paper with ideas, then engaging with the group to move pieces of paper around as the participants discus the meaning and placement of all these pieces of paper. As we did our final reflection round at the end, with a marker as a talking stick, many people commented that there were times that they felt lost.  This is where my white hair helps – if I had been young I am sure they would have started to tinker with my process, or een take over.

Although I never felt lost, I knew what we were doing and where we would end up, I wasn’t altogether sure I could pull it off in the allotted time and given the bi-continental constraints. There were many times that we got stuck in the mud – I know there are always mudflats when you do strategic planning (usually people are surprised by those). It’s a discovery journey in my book which means there are rivers to cross, raging currents to bridge and oh so many places where you get may get stuck in the mud, or simply stuck. These muddy places are usually where the members of the organization are not aligned on something. In a traditional (deductive) strategic planning process where you start with the very abstract, mud places are camouflaged because of the vague general language people use. Later after the plan is finished and implementation starts they get tripped up when the different understandings of the vague language surface. In my view such a process does little to create energy and confidence among the staff lower on the ladder, especially when you have a dynamic of wise old elders (the older American board members) and young(er) local (Zambian in this case) staff.

I have once again surpassed the number of days that I contracted for, I was contracted for only Monday and Tuesday, even hough the retreat was planned for four days. There were limits to the time I could be engaged for. Since my flight is late on Wednesday (day three), and we didn’t get everything we wanted done, it was no surprise that I was asked to facilitate continued conversations until the time of departure for the airport.

This is the second time I have contracted for less than I am used for – I am resolving this, once again, by donating the surplus, if possible, as a tax-deductible contribution to this organization, health kids/brighter future. I do that happily as it is an extraordinary young organization with a passionate staff and passionate board, and no egos anywhere in sight. So very refreshing! Although my contract was a one off arrangement, I hope I will have more contact in the future. Now getting ready for the very long ride home.

Lost in Lusaka

It was my first trip to Africa in half a year, a hiatus I had not had for decades. I forgot things, not stuff, but information. After two long plane rides I arrived at 10PM in Kenya. I had booked a guesthouse room that was , supposedly, near the airport (Airport Homestay), for 36 dollars. I figured it was pointless to spend a lot of money on a fancy hotel room at the airport for a very short night as my plane to Lusaka required my presence at the airport the next day at 5AM.

The driver wasn’t there with the sign with my name, as agreed in my communication with the guesthouse. A friendly taxi driver called the guesthouse on his phone and was told the driver was there. The taxi driver hovered around me, concerned but also hoping he get the ride. Another, this time female taxi driver approached me as well, to help. I was by now one of the few people standing in front of the arrival hall and it was now past 11. Finally, the driver was spotted with a crumpled sign that had my name (defensively and cryptically saying that he had been there all along but had stepped away). I shook hands with the helpful taxi driver who must have been disappointed. In hindsight it would have been hard to find the place as it was hidden away from the highway in a gated apartment complex. I don’t think we would have found it.

My 36 dollar room was a bedroom (with bathroom) in a regular house tucked inside a fence tucked inside a gated apartment complex. Not quite as close to the airport but to no too far either, a 20 minute ride. I was welcomed by Lilian in her tiny living room. She pointed me to the bedroom right next to it. It contained a bed, a mosquito net, towels and bottles of water. Everything I needed and nothing more. I fell into a comatose sleep, instantly.

The next morning everything was dark. I called out in the hallway to Lilian but no peep. I opened the door and was faced with a fence that was locked. There was no guard and Lillian was clearly fast asleep. How was I going to get out with my luggage? I looked at the possibility of climbing over the fence with its sharp points – no way. I banged on the large metal gate until I recognized the voice of my driver. He had been there at the appointed time but had no key to open the fence – I had been tired when I arrived to consider this possibility of locked behind a gate. I did not have a working phone (a big handicap) but the driver had, and he woke Lillian up. She came down the stairs sleepily and full of apologies. The gate was opened and we made it to the airport in a short time. Everything went smoothly from then on. A few hours later I landed in Lusaka. 

The smooth ride continued. Going through immigration was a synch – no long lines, no forms to fill in, no finger printing or photo taking, just 50 dollars. And then the thought occurred to me what if there was no one to pick me up – as I know these things happen fairly frequently.  I didn’t have the phone number of the driver, and I didn’t even know the name of the guesthouse, the latter more problematic.  It was Sunday and I didn’t even have the address of the organization’s office.

Indeed, the driver didn’t show up. I found myself at a loss, and really stupid that I hadn’t written down the name of the guesthouse. The airport in Lusaka doesn’t have internet, so an email or Skype chat was out of the question. What now?

I had noticed a woman with a Dutch passport standing behind me in the immigration line. I asked her about the taxi fare into town and then she offered to give me ride to where I was staying. Her driver was helpful and eventually helped me find the phone number of a friend of a friend who had worked at Save the Children where one of the senior staff of my client organization used to work. He took me to the mall where I might be able to find a café with internet connection so I could try other options.And so we were sitting at the Mug & Bean at a Mall, sipping my Capuccino when the Board Chair and the organization’s president found me – it had been two hours since I arrived, no longer lost in Lusaka. Thank God for small cities and a well connected middle class that works in the health field. I learned my lesson: get the driver’s phone number (he had mixed up AM and PM), and the name of your lodgings. I am clearly out of the habit of traveling in Africa.

The joy of eating in Japan

Today is my last day of work and our last day in Tokyo . We return tomorrow. There is likely to be more work here later and I am contemplating whether to seriously study Japanese.

While I worked, Axel has been exploring Tokyo, one day with our friend Miho, and the other days by himself. Sofar I have had a day and a half to accompany him on his explorations. It has been mostly raining which has literally dampened the fun a bit.

This has not dampened the food explorations. Every day we have the Japanese breakfast: miso soup, nato (fermented beans), rice with all sorts of interesting add-ons, seaweed, tofu, and more. There is a continental breakfast as well but why bother.

We have had, of course, our sushi, but there is more to Japanese food than sushi and sashimi. Twice we were invited to join with the founder and program manager of the Japanese Women’s Leadership Initiative (JWLI).  On Saturday she took us to a lovely small yakatori (=small brochettes) restaurant named ‘the dirty stinking southerner’ (Nambantei) according to our host. It referred to the smelly Dutch people who entered Japan in the 1600s, the first foreigners to be let in. The walls and menu were decorated with copies of old drawings of these smelly foreigners on their ship (yes, with the Dutch flag I am embarrassed to say) and sitting around a table drinking beer.

Last night (Sunday) we went to a small restaurant where we grilled thin pieces of beef on a small grill in front of us, accompanied by spicy kimshi, salad and a variety of pickled vegetables. The restaurant is located in the neighborhood where our host grew up during and right after WWII. She pointed out where her house had once stood, now replaced by a 4 story building.

Yesterday we got a taste of overpopulation at and around the very busy Shinsuku station, one of four large stations that spew out thousands of people every minute into Tokyo. It has a Times Square feel to it (and there is a Times Square just around the corner). We are glad to be in the quiet Rockefeller house (by invitation only, we are so lucky) with its beautiful gardens, tucked away in the district known for its active and noisy night life.

 

Next assignment: Japan

 

August came and went too fast. In the US Labor Day (first Monday in September) signals the official end of summer. The roads fill up again, university cities add tens of thousands of residents as students return. Faro returned to his immersion Chinese school, first grade now, and babbles easily in mandarin according to Sita- none of us understanding him of course.

Sita went and returned from her job at the eventful ASEAN World Economic Forum in Vietnam and barely got to explore Hanoi. She wants to go back there, as we would want to.  It’s an idea for a family vacation.

I completed the lion’s part of my consultancy with an organization in North Carolina, just in time before hurricane Florence moved in. I have started to immerse myself in the preparations for my teaching job in the fall and put the finishing touches on the lectures and workshops in Japan.

We left for Japan on the 12th using up my last Delta global upgrades before they would disappear forever. Even in business class the trip is long. We emerged in a  daze after 19 hours from the moment we got up. After entering and leaving various stations and trains and going up and down stairways and escalators, we found our way to our lovely hotel in the Roppongi area of Tokyo. Our abode here is the Rockefeller-built International House of Japan – a building with a philosophy of cultural and intellectual exchange to get Japan back on its feet after the war. It certainly did!

 


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