Archive for the 'On the road' Category



Fun and havetos

Our passports are now sitting in some part of the Fedex system on their way to Washington, for their Afghan visa stamp. We were not able to get our visas renewed in Afghanistan because of a Byzantine bureaucratic process, a misalignment between the various agencies involved in the stamping process, or because we are not paying under the table as we are expected to do. Or all of the above.

We are trying to balance our time here between ‘have-to’s’ and fun. We took care of some of the ‘have-to’s’ yesterday (haircut, tax stuff, visa applications, appointments) and the rest was for fun. The latter included a walk into town, a breakfast at the Beach Street cafe consisting of home fries and lots of bacon, and then a drive to Newburyport for a reunion with Anne and Chuck, a salad lunch and a glass of rose.

On the way back we assembled our dinner: fresh fish, local strawberries, local asparagus (including some of the remaining stalks from our garden), fresh corn from further south, fresh pasta and wine. I marvelled at the taken-for-granted luxury here to simply walk into a store and buy wine and beer, drink it, and come back for more as often as your wallet allows.

People outside the US may not understand that fun does not include being glued to the TV to watch the World Cup matches. Although a bigger deal than 4 years ago, from observing our surroundings it does not seem to be something that stops everything and everybody in its tracks.

Today fun will include a pedicure for me, more walking and sitting in the garden to read. It is vacation time after all. Afghanistan seems far away, even though this morning, reading Dexter Filkins in the NYT, brought it momentarily, and uncomfortably back on our screen.

Malling around

We had some idea of mussels by the ocean, after climbing the tallest man-made structure in the world, but we ended up in the Dubai (do buy) mall the entire day. We tried out the metro which turned out, at the end of the day, not a good deal because it is not synchronized with the mall closing. Taxis are cheaper, maybe because they are driven by people who don’t earn that much.

The Bourj Khalife had just opened when we travelled through here in January this year. At that time it seemed more of a symbol of Dubai extravagance than anything else. But today we had the full experience: from vision to reality, the architectural ideas, drawn from a flower that looks like a trillium, sketched then drawn, then competed, redesigned, tested and finally built. There were pictures of the mason and the master architect, the art designer and the carpenter, the project manager and the package manager – all smiling into the camera, life size, presumably after the project was completed. I am sure they weren’t smiling all throughout the design and construction phase.

At the top of the structure, or at least the highest point where tourists are allowed, we watched the dusty skies. Computer screens showed the view for day and for night, as well as the life view, which wasn’t all that clear, so we opted for the programmed view from another day, clearer than today.

All the time we were so high up there I thought of the World Trade Center on 9/11 and the people jumping to escape the inferno for another form of death. I was glad to be back on the ground.

We found a fast food fish place (Nordsee) that actually had baguettes with herring – not exactly like Dutch herring but close enough. After that we malled and malled for hours, testing macchiato here, ice cream there, marvelling at the variety of choices, the freedom of walking around uncovered, the absence of guns, blast walls, razor wire and sand bags and the cleanliness. With the amount of money generated from war, poppies and international aid, Afghanistan could surely create something like this?

When we had tired of malling we watched a local movie about arab men with too much money, colliding with a poor Indian cab driver dreaming of a Bollywood career and an eastern European flight attendant in trouble. It ended OK for most of them except the spoiled rotten Arab men, one died and the other was wrecked by guilt and drank himself silly on forbidden whiskey which made his dad very mad; but then he found religion which, I presume, made his dad very glad.

After dinner we found a cold beer-serving Thai restaurant that looked out over the Bourj fountains. For the price of putting up with the moist 36 degree air, we had a front row seat to a most spectacular musical water ballet, with a new show every 20 minutes. We watched it from one side with our Thai food, and then later from the other side of the lake with coffee and dessert. So that was Dubai, Holland is next.

Overnight express

The flight to Kabul was quick because I slept most of the way, stretched out on three seats. The (very) early morning flight Kabul is the cheapest of its offerings. You’d think that that would fill up the plane but it was half empty, hence the three seats.

My vertigo had subsided except for that one moment that the plane was pushed backwards into its parking slot, after arrival in Kabul. The backwards movement, uncommon in planes, tripped up my brain and everything started spinning again; luckily it lasted less than a minute and I was able to walk out of the plane into what was at least a physically stable world.

Otherwise things aren’t very stable here. Kabul is picking itself up, once again, from a series of traumatic events that had occurred during my absence (one plane crash and two attacks, Darulaman and Baghram). This does not include the many other efforts at intimidation that are happening with increasing regularity all over the country, especially in the once peaceful north. I’d like to think these are acts of people who are cornered and becoming desperate, but like us to think they are on the winning team.

Axel cooked me a nice breakfast and then I went back to sleep to continue my series of interrupted naps. I slept till 12:00 and then went to the office to participate in the continuation of our work planning meetings. It was the reason for taking the early morning flight.

The day ended with a phone call with Boston where I was joined, by video, with the people I had just left in Washington. It was as if I had been beamed halfway across the globe overnight, or shipped like a UPS parcel.

Truth to power

I am back in Dubai waiting for the Safi plane to take me home. With my emergency room experience under my belt I had been able to negotiate a stay in the Dubai airport hotel. It is expensive (it charges by the hour) but it would allow me to stay in the hotel and have a few hours of sleep rather than having to negotiate several waiting lines, get into a taxi to another expensive hotel, sleep an hour and get back into a taxi to join more waiting lines.

A young man with my name, misspelled, on a handheld sign whisked me straight off the plane to a luxurious hotel room just above the hustle and bustle of the tax-free shopping area; a room with a view on one of the jetways.

I dreamt about women’s liberation and courage, quite a good combination of themes that came from watching first Temple Grandin deal with the stockyard cowboys in Arizona (Thinking in pictures) and then Alice Paul and her team fighting for women’s voting rights in the 1917s in the US (Iron jawed angels).

Both films were about the power of vision and the ugliness of human behavior, in the case of these particular films, man’s nature, when the vision clashes with a deeply entrenched status quo. I don’t quite understand the perceived threat (is is more perceived than real it seems). It is one I also see in Afghanistan, when people stand up for their rights and speak truth to power.

And now on to Kabul.

Vertigo

I had until yesterday always associated Vertigo with Hitchcock but from now on it will be associated with my four day trip to deliver a presentation at a conference in Washington that nearly didn’t happen and 5 hours in the emergency room of George Washington University Hospital.

The vertigo had started small, brief episodes before I got off the plane on Saturday morning, a few more that day, a few more on Sunday, all short and fleeting. But then, at the end of the morning session of the big conference that celebrated the end of the project I have been working on for all these years, the episode did not stop. I became like a drunk: unable to walk with the room spinning around me and then my stomach started to heave. Two colleagues got me to the bathroom, just in time; after that I had to have a plastic bag/waste basket next to me at all time.

For a while it was touch-and-go: will she present, will she not. My colleagues were ready to whisk me away to the emergency room but I resisted. After all I had travelled 36 hours to make that presentation. In the end the presentation became a team effort: the Afghan representative of the ministry of health and one of my Boston based colleagues prepared themselves for taking over. We ended up each doing a piece. We took longer than planned, there were fewer people than we had expected and there were essentially no questions but we delivered the message that some good stuff is happening in Afghanistan.

And then I was taken to the hospital where I had a cat scan (everything OK), blood tests (everything OK), and EKG (OK) and the final conclusion, luckily, of benign locational vertigo. A little after 10 PM I was sent home with antivertigo medicine and the OK from the doctor to board the plane to Dubai tonight. My colleagues wanted to keep me in DC, in a Holiday Inn near the office but that was not at all in my plans. I am happy to go home; a home that I learned just now had been bombed again and had a plane crash. Vertigo seems like a minor irritation in comparison.

Full

Full with the joy of seeing friends and colleagues who I have worked with for many years, decades in some case; of seeing colleagues from Nepal. We started something there in 2006 and it is still going strong – leaders are popping up everywhere.

Full of pride in seeing Flore from Cote d’Ivoire. She was an administrative assistant, underemployed like Marzila in Kabul. I convinced the rest of her male team that we needed women on the facilitator team. Some protested (I have heard this too often: she is too young, the older men won’t accept her in an authority role). But they did and now she is here in Washington for the first time in her life. We hugged. I could have cried.

I could have cried and was filled with sadness upon hearing about the earthquake from my Haitian colleagues, the sadness of Sandra who lost her husband, her life partner, her best friend. Many are still living in tents, afraid to enter even their undamaged home. It takes courage they say. For now it is too scary, because of the continuing and unexpected aftershocks. The earth, it seems, is not done yet. What a frightening thought.

Full of the stuffiness that comes from being in a windowless hotel basement room for an entire day watching rehearsals of powerpoint presentations and doing my own.

Too full with stories to be able to stick to the 30 minutes allowed (but how does one tell about Afghanistan in 30 minutes?).

A city full of beaming students and their parents as they walk, some in their graduation gowns, others with just the tassled hat on, or simply carrying the thing in a plastic bag) on their way to the enormous GWU graduation set-up in the middle of the Mall.

Meals full of calories but so very yummy.

Full of energy after a good night. Now it is morning here in DC and evening in Kabul. The real reason for why I am here starts today. Rehearsal time is over. Curtain opens in a couple of hours.

Full of pearls; wearing my mother’s and grandmother’s pearls for the occasion. I so rarely dress up these days. This seemed like a good time.

Full of gladness that I am not leaving for Dubai tonight.

Royal

For 16 hours I was high up in the sky, oblivious to the worries of the world, ensconced in my business class pod. Things turned out all right and it was my lucky day after all. I fell asleep, which is very easy to do in the pod because the seat flattens entirely, as soon as we were up in the air and woke up as we approached the North American coast. Sixteen hours in that business class pod is easy flying; I could have gone on for another 16 hours. But in coach it is an endless trip, I have done it too.

I entered the US with a simple swipe of my passport in a kiosk. I got my clearance for the Global Entry System just when my continuous travel stopped, last winter. It’s very satisfying to bypass the long lines. The swift entry and not having any checked luggage, made it possible to catch the plane to DC that left 25 minutes after I exited the plane that had taken me from Dubai.

I was taken to a very fancy hotel, Monaco, which is located straight across the National Portrait Gallery. I learned that the hotel used to be the Tariff Building and was the first significant federal building constructed after the US Capitol and the White House. The design is based on an Italian Renaissance Palazzo. I feel kind of royal, first the B-class and now this. I am travelling in style.

I threw myself Washington like a true tourist, starting with a walk down to the Mall. I chose my lunch spot carefully: in the National Gallery’s statue garden. I had it with a glass of white wine in a plastic cup, just like that, in the open, while watching a steady stream of obese tourists waddle by and trying to look at the exposed flesh with the eyes of an Afghan and I marvel about this place where everything is possible that is so frowned upon back home.

I visited the National Gallery and then made a brief pilgrimage to see Amelia’s shiny red Lockheed Vega in the overcrowded Air & Space Museum. I had watched the movie about her on the plane and felt compelled to pay my respect.

On my way back to the hotel I passed by the Canadian embassy, marvelling again at the absence of any visible form of protection, except for some low fences one could jump over in a second. It made me want to scream at all the warmongers in Afghanistan, ‘don’t you see what you could get, how lovely and peaceful Afghanistan could be if you could just stop worrying about your own wellbeing and interest and start looking after the good of the country?’

Back at the hotel I ‘rested my eyes’ as Axel calls it until the phone brought me back from a bottomless sleep. Kathy from the reception rang to tell me the provincial health director of Bamiyan Province had showed up. He has been all over the US on a trip paid for by the State Department and we were able to keep him here three more days to participate in our conference. I am paying his bill, hence the call.

I am happy about his presence at the conference on Monday. It will keep me honest. When people ask me about ‘country-owned’ and ‘government-led’ I can call on him.

It also meant that I had an Afghan dinner date and the food was going to be Afghan. Our Sikh taxi driver took us far outside the city; I was ready to turn back and then there it was, a place along a major road, strip mall style. I don’t think I would have ever gone in by myself as it didn’t look very attractive on the outside. It was Afghan all right, very Afghan. A wedding was going on inside. It is as if I was back in Kabul except the men and women mingled freely and most women were not covering themselves as they would in the home country.

The food and the service was excellent and stood in some contrast to the rather run down surrounding. I could tell that my Afghan friend was enjoying the food he has missed for 3 weeks. I watched him observe with curiosity his Americanized country men and women as he ate his warm Afghan naan, sipped his green tea and dug into his qabuli rice. It was royal treatment of a different kind.

Dubaifarsi

It was a dusty ride out of Kabul and into Dubai. Someone other than Captain Courtney was piloting us to Dubai but the chief flight attendant and I recognized each other from my cockpit ride 6 weeks ago.

I was driven from the airport to my dayroom on Dubai Creek in a Lady Taxi (pink stripe on car) by a Sri Lankan lady all dressed in pink and white, the company uniform for female drivers. It included a white gauzy veil that was much too warm for Dubai. In her native Sri Lanka there was no veil and there was rain, lots of rain during monsoon time.

Still, she liked it here because of the money (lady fares are 20% higher than male fares). She had started out as a housemaid for an Iranian family and had decided that this was not a good form of employ. She took driving lessons and told me proudly she was licensed now. Because of her previous Iranian employer we could communicate also in broken Farsi.

I am staying in a hotel that is populated by Africans, many with small children. I am curious about why they are here. I have a small balcony with teak garden furniture that looks out over the Creek, exactly as I had hoped.

After completing my presentation for the conference I walked, in spite of the heat, along the quiet Dubai Creek. Weekend in Dubai transforms the place. Instead of the frantic activity of loading and unloading wares from everywhere on and off their boats, the dhow hands were languishing in whatever shade they could find.

I had planned to cross to the other side and eat a Lebanese lunch but the cold coconut milk, fresh from the nut, and the jumbo prawns offered by a small sidewalk cafe kept me on this side. Afterwards I made a quick stop at the spice souk where I found most shops closed for Friday prayers, except for one. I found the one spice I haven’t been able to get in Kabul, star anise, and surprised the Iranian shopkeeper with my ability to communicate with him in his native language, Farsi. It seems that if you don’t speak Arabic, Farsi can take you a long way in Dubai.

Got my middle seat changed to window – things are lightening up.

Spargel in Cologne, mardjuba in Kabul

At exactly one minute before 5 PM we pulled up at the Hertz return at Frankfurt airport. That saved us a surcharge. We had not expected it would take us most of the day to get from Tilburg to Frankfurt but it did. We did take a break in Cologne for a look at the Dom and a last meal of asparagus and ham in an old beer establishment with plain wooden tables that looked like they are sanded down each night. Axel had a sauerbraten and his last pieces of pork for awhile.

We left from the E hall of the airport, gate 6, while from gate 9 the Ariana flight to Kabul was leaving just minutes before us. Both planes were half full; good for us (once again a whole row) but not good for either of the companies.

Behind me two Afghans who live in Holland with an older Dutch lady in between. The Afghans were switching back and forth between Dutch and Dari; the combination of the two works well for me, I could pretty much follow them.

The Afghans were giving the adventuresome 80-year oma advice about how to prepare her stomach for the land she was about to enter. The wonder medicine is onions, I learned.

We arrived in sunny and chaotic Kabul where it was 11 degrees which felt a whole lot warmer than 11 degrees in Holland. We would have liked to have those 11 degrees during our stay in Holland.

At home we found everyone there: the gardner gardening, the cook cooking and the cleaner hanging out with the guards in the back, plus a few other office gophers to do miscellaneous things. We were greeted like long lost family, in Dari of course.

We will eat asparagus again tonight; the four kilos we brought survived the trip well – they will be good for 2 more meals. Our cook recognized it, but not the white kind. It is called mardjuba here, which is never white and much skinnier, like the ones we grow in Manchester. I think (I hope) that I talked him out of preparing them Afghan style, just didn’t want to take any risk.

Freedom

We are in Holland now. We just went for a walk in the dark around the neighbourhood. No blast walls, no barbed wire, no guns. Just ordinary Dutch people watching TV in their living rooms, curtains open so we can peek in. As we peek in we watch a reportage about Dutch soldiers in Uruzgan. We can’t escape Afghanistan.

We left Kabul at 10 AM in a half full plane. As soon as the doors of the plane closed all the women dropped their scarves and veils. It made me wonder, what is it about this society that forces women to cover their head, neck and hair until the doors of the plane close, after which all the hidden body parts are OK to be shared with total strangers.

I wondered how many future suicide bombers and Al Qaida operatives were in the plane with us, on their way to some assignment or another. I wouldn’t ask that question on the way back as I suppose none will be flying back. It’s an eerie thought.

We had four seats to ourselves which made for a pleasant 7 hour ride to Frankfurt. We picked up our rental car, added a navigation system to our bill and drove at breakneck speed to my brother’s house just over the border from Germany, in a little less than 4 hours. We thought Frankfurt was closer by, it’s only an inch on the map after all, but it was a few hundred kilometres.

Before dinner we had a Grolsch beer especially brewed for the new (and unlikely) soccer champions of Holland (F.C.Twente) who come from the same place that the beer comes from. Grolsch brewed a special congratulatory beer which was the first real beer we had, something Axel had looked forward to for days.

And now I am watching Dutch TV where people are chewing over the eventful 4th of May (Memorial) day where some loony man created a panic that landed several people in the hospital and brought back painful memories of last year when another loony killed several people. On this 5th of May, Liberation Day (65 years ago), everyone is talking about freedom. We have our own ideas about this right now.


January 2026
M T W T F S S
 1234
567891011
12131415161718
19202122232425
262728293031  

Categories

Blog Stats

  • 137,286 hits

Enter your email address to follow this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email.

Join 76 other subscribers