Archive for the 'On the road' Category



The good life

I decided to forego the macchiato five floors down and instead had my cup of Nescafe and instant oatmeal. This allowed me to linger in my pajamas for a good part of the morning.

At about 11 AM Liz picked me up for an outing into town. First stop was a leather factory. Leather is a big thing here which I could have figured out since they eat so much beef. On the outskirts of town, in the factory’s shop, we found racks full of coats and bags of the softest leather. I am not much of a leather person but some coats were hard to resist, especially at the prices advertised. Liz emerged with a elegant jacket that appeared to have been made for her, such a perfect fit. We will return next week to make the final decision about some items we asked them to put away for us.

Next stop was the coffee place, Tomoca, where we had our first macchiato of the day, coming out of an enormous espresso machine. We sipped our coffee from the tiny cups while breathing in the wonderful smells of freshly roasted coffee beans. Liz will take back the coffee beans I ordered while the ground coffee will come along to Kabul as a treat to anyone who has been living on Nescafe too long.

The rains moved in and we skipped the Mercato, allegedly the biggest market in Africa. Instead we headed for the Boston Spa building to make our appointments for a hot stone massage, a manicure and a pedicure for next Saturday when we will have earned such treatment. Above the spa is the Lime Tree café, a bookstore/café/restaurant that has the feel of the universal university bookstore/cafe restaurant. Not surprisingly you can find many young expats sitting behind their computers checking email while drinking their lattes.

The afternoon was reserved for work – getting ready for the first event that starts on Monday when we will create the team that will run the leadership program after we leave, two weeks from now.

Liz and Pierre-Marie, our colleague from Cameroon, picked me up again at the end of the day and we headed for the Beer Garden Inn, a German brew pub with a menu in German and shiny copper kettles brewing the beer in full view. The place was packed and we got the last open table. Soon we found ourselves with a contraption on our table that delivered the beer from a tab, coming out of a meter long cylinder; imagine that, one meter of beer!

We did not order the full meter (5 liters). Ours was filled to the 3 liter line, about 65 cm, with foam filling up the remainder of the cylinder. Iit was plenty for us girls, although we suspect that Pierre-Marie could have handled the full meter.

A few men, sitting behind us, had started with beer up to the 75 cm line (about 4 liters) and seemed to have given up after drinking about 60 cm of that. They looked rather tired as they slouched on their seats. Twenty cm of beer can tire you out easily. Simple pub fare accompanied the drinks and made for a very pleasant evening.

Back at the hotel it looked like the Oscars were being handed out; the place was full of excited young men and women. A red carpet led me up the stairs, then abandoned me by the elevator. The red carpet continued to the basement nightclub with its loud music, dominated by the thump-thump of the base, which got louder by the hour.

At 2 AM in the morning the scene outside my hotel was buzzing with people, men mostly, and some women of ill-repute, drinking enormous amounts of alcohol and getting noisier by the minute. I stood on the balcony for awhile, not being able to sleep, and surveyed the animated scene 6 stories below, then retired to my bed to continue reading why Richard Dawkins thinks God is a terribly destructive delusion. 

Slow start

The receptionist at the hotel told me that Michael Jackson was dead. If you were to believe the TV, nothing else happened yesterday, not even in Iran. An email from an African colleague offered condoleances. Michael was one of our tribe, believe it or not.

Here in Addis, I heard his songs on car radios, in restaurants and shopping centers. Watching CNN I learned that even the US House or Representatives had a moment of silence. I think he would have liked knowing. May he does know. All channels on my two fancy flatscreen TVs were covering Michael, ad nauseam.

I spent a good part of the day chasing the elusive Ethiopian telcom simcard. Such cards are now the monopoly of the state. It controls who gets one and who does not. This stands in sharp contrast to the sale of such cards in other African countries.

I stopped at 4 different state-run telecom offices. I was asked to show my ID and then told they had run out of simcards. I saw long lines and people filling in multiple forms but I never saw a simcard changing hands. We went on a wild goose chase all over Addis. The suggestion that maybe we should call ahead before going through thick traffic to another branch office was met with indifference. No, we don’t have the number, and you should just go. I don’t know whether it was a case of foot dragging, not being able to say no to a foreigner, a supply problem or an intentional creation of scarcity. We finally gave up. I felt rather handicapped without a cellphone as landlines are very unreliable. How did we live without cell phones before?

Interrupting the chase from time to time I joined my colleagues who had flown in from the US ahead of me and were busy orienting our new project director. We are getting ready for an intense two weeks in which we have to bring many new people on board and hand over the running of the leadership program and put in into local hands.

Slowly the sky darkened and a thunderstorm produced some significant rain. In the office I was congratulated for having brought the rain, a sign of good luck. The big rains have been slow in coming and people are worried that another drought is in the making.

In the absence of a simcard I made my phone calls from the receptionist desk. It’s a busy place with people coming and going. One person came in and pulled a large wooden model that is used to demonstrate condom use, out of a plastic bag. Nobody flinched; it was as if he was showing the proofs of a brochure. I started to laugh because it was something both ordinary and extraordinary. This is part of the business we are in.

At the end of the day I returned to my large apartment via a local supermarket where I bought fresh roses for next to nothing. I continued unpacking while watching interminable re-runs of Michael Jackson, grieving fans and celebrations of his life. I asked the Italian restaurant to bring my meal to my room, accompanied by a large glass of south African (not Italian) wine and celebrated my safe arirval in Addis, great colleagues and an exciting new venture.

Up

I bought and upgrade to business class for the last leg of the trip for an outrageous amount of points, 45500 – worth nearly two free round trips in the US but it was worth it. I was one of only a handful of people in the spacious cabin, without even a neighbor when they started moving people to the front out of an overflowing economy class. An ecstatic Scotsman plopped next to me, proudly showing his silver NW frequent flyer car. I tried to be happy for him but found myself a little annoyed about my expensive upgrade, having gold and platinum cards aplenty. Some people are lucky about these things. I have been flying with platinum cards for the last 10 years and only very rarely had such luck.

Breathlessly I read the entire book of Masuda Sultana on the plane, My War at Home. I had downloaded it on my Kindle as soon as Ghia had introduced me to her by email and now I am thrilled that I will someday meet her, in Kabul or Stateside. The book is an autobiography that starts with a 16 year old Afghan-American girl being married to a doctor 12 years her senior who slowly finds her voice and becomes an activist for Afghans women’s rights and justice for victims of US bombing attacks after 9/11 in Kandahar. It’s also a book about leadership for people who think they have no voice.

After I finished the book I finally started to focus on my assignment here in Ethiopia and drafted an agenda for the facilitator training that will start on Monday. Today I hope to meet the members of the consulting firm we hired to serve as our facilitator team. I have three days to orient them and bring them on board, after that they will run the senior alignment meeting with bosses and then run the first workshop in two places as a split team; eveyone will get a lot of practice and exposure. It’s a just-in-time kind of thing which allows us to withdraw quickly and support them from afar; a formula that has worked well in countless other places and leaves everyone with a great resources in country – win/win for all.

When I arrived at the hotel I was greeted by guards and attendants who are starting to recognize me. This time I was given an upgrade to a suite without having asked for it (frankly, I don’t care all that much about the size of hotel rooms – it’s the internet access that concerns me more). But when I opened the door to the suite I noticed clothes and other signs of life that indicated to me the room was not mine and I withdrew quickly.

The room next door was open. Inside I saw a group of people hatching some plan or another. When they streamed out and found me in the hall it turned out to have the manager among them. who apologized and invited me to take that room for the night. Tomorrow the enormous suite will be mine, he promised.

I slept well, with te thump-thumping of the active nightclub on the backside of the hotel, 7 floors down, only faintly audible. I woke up with the sun streaming into my room from the 45 feet terrace. And now I am going to have my first cup of the best macchiato in the world. It is served in the Italian restaurant 6 floors down that functions as the hotel’s restaurant.

Fragile

I am flying about 35000 feet over millions of acres of Maine/Canadian woods, along an aviation highway. Every few minutes a plane races by my window in the opposite direction. I am glad to know that planes in opposite direction have to hold different altitudes (odd and even thousands of feet) so I don’t need to worry about us flying straight into each other. It stays light on the left side of the plane for most of the journey; in the north the sun never sets in this time of the year. On my side it gets pitch dark.

Now and then we dive into a massive cumulus cloud and I think of the Air France plane from Brazil that disappeared into one full of thunder, lighting and turbulent air never to come out whole. Life is fragile and everything can be changed in a matter of minutes.

Or a matter of months. Susan died this morning. She slipped out at 5:24 AM which is just about the time that I opened my eyes to a new day. All day I walked around with her in my head wondering how it is possible that someone so full of life can be dead in a matter of months. I look down on the endless Maine woods, wondering where Susan is now, while I listen to Feist. Suddenly, as if to answer my question, the combination of the low sun, white clouds and the reflection of the plane produced an enormous round rainbow with a large with spot in the middle. I have never seen anything like it – the ends of a rainbow are not supposed to touch – but these did; a perfect circle. And then it disappeared as conditions changed.

Two hours into the flight we are still flying over endless woods, punctuated by a thousand lakes with occasional signs of human habitation. We must be way up in Canada before starting to cross the Atlantic.

I prepared for my departure to Addis with a massage of my messed up upper back, shoulders and upper arms. The various tears have brought everything out of alignment. After the massage Abi taught me some yoga poses and exercises that will help strengthen the affected mussels. If only I had the discipline to do those three times a day.

Back home I interrupted my packing with a half-hearted attempt to make goat cheese but skipped a step in the process. I will not know whether I invented a new kind of goat cheese or made something that is inedible. The lesson is, when you need to pack two suitcases, one for summer in Ethiopia and the other for winter in Afghanistan, don’t try to make goat cheese before you finish the packing job.

In good hands

We are slowly moving through the phases of the change process I teach. I am a little ahead of Axel and in the exploratory phase. There is much to think about and sometimes it is a little overwhelming. There is so much that has to be done and so few calendar days to squeeze it in.

The trip to Kabul on Monday or Tuesday has been postponed. This is both good and bad. The good thing is that we will have some quiet time together at home to think through what needs to be done and for Axel to make connections. The bad thing is that my entire summer is a series of carefully dovetailed events that now need to be disrupted. There is a combination of immutable appointments (the trip to Addis, the shoulder surgery with all its pre-op and post-op tests and follow up) and commitments (teaching at BU, a family reunion and the trip to Ghana late August). Sometimes my head spins. Right now I have no idea how all this is going to work.

Axel and I did our mind-mapping sessions and got some twenty people to overcome their fears. A few reported later that they bravely mind-mapped all sessions they attended after us; even business school professors can learn something new!

I attended a session on the Argentinean Tango and organizational behavior. Dancing the tango requires as much leadership as followership and my struggles with leading and following as we learned only one basic step illuminated possible pitfalls for someone who is switching from follower to leader. That would be me in a few months. I experienced the kind of gut learning that this conference was designed to bring about.

A matching dream last night produced another insight all by itself and I woke up realizing that one of the key skills that senior leadership requires is negotiation as I dreamed a complex scenario that required working across boundaries. We have an author of many textbooks about negotiation right here in our midst.

Friday night at OBTC is always the traditional talent show. There are many regulars: a few poets, a yodeler, an opera singer, a balad singer and then a few brave souls who stand up on the podium for the first time, including two dancers demonstrating the tango.

Over the last 7 years I have become the conference chronicler poet and the pressure is on as soon as people arrive on day 1 – asking me, ‘will you be doing the poem again?’ How can I say no? I carry a little notebook with me at all times and jot down things I notice; funny things, contradictions and stuff that’s weird.

I used to be nervous about making a commitment and then finding myself in front of a microphone with a mediocre or incomplete poem. But now I know it will come and I need simply be prepared with a piece of paper and pencil to catch the verses as they appear in my mind. It was my 8th such poem and chronicled the southern experience (food, Tums, dress and climate), the keynote speakers, the theme and the turbulence that Axel and I are experiencing as a couple over the imminent move.

We have lined up some eminent B-school thinkers as coaches and guides for our adventure and feel supported by a ring of admirers and caring colleagues. We are in good hands!

Not knowing

In this warm city, garbage left out starts to get ripe real quickly and so, every morning, between 3 and 5 AM a large dump truck installs itself in the ally below our window and empties containers with much noise. It wakes me up but not Axel.

Yesterday started with a reflection from one of our society’s sages, Andre Delbecq, about theme of the conference (from good teaching to good learning) as applied to his life’s journey. Illustrated with great quotes from Henri Nouwen and Parker Palmer he distinguished between what one thinks one should do, wants to do and is called to do. I understand the latter while Axel is trying to quiet his mind to hear it.

We are currently, as a couple, in the turbulent headwater of two currents coming together with, for now, no land in sight as we are left in a state of not knowing. Not knowing whether we are travelling to Kabul or not next week. Not knowing what Axel will do there. Not knowing what will change in my work relationships when I am in Kabul and not knowing what comes after Kabul. And, more practically for me, not knowing what will change after the presidential elections over there.

Where I was buoyed by Andre’s talk, seeing an affirmation of my decision to move to Kabul for a year, Axel was not because he missed it. He had not slept much the night before, a combination of the effect of the southern fried food and the news about Kabul and so he slept in.

We skipped the paid for dinner at the college cafeteria and instead had a dinner à deux in a lovely Flemish restaurant (mussels and sweet potato fries) to sort out how to handle the turbulence, the strong feelings that are created and the support we need from each. There is a heightened need for communication under these circumstances – and making time for each other. I should know this.

The sessions in the conference are of great use to me. I am looking at all through the Afghanistan prism and pick topics that I think I will need to learn more about. Some are concurrent and I have to make choices. I am collecting names from people to become my support network when in Kabul and everyone happily agrees to serve this purpose. Both of us feel tremendously supported, encouraged and loved by this community of professional colleagues – some of whom have become dear friends as well.

Today is our session – a skill building workshop about mind mapping, which we also planned over dinner, in between talking about Afghanistan and our imminent move. We feel like one eyed teachers in the land of the blind – not pros at it, as people think, but just a little ahead in the practice. We have only skimmed the surface of all the writings about mind mapping and I am a little intimidated when I Google the word. Not knowing but knowing enough for now.

Openings

The news came through yesterday that the job in Kabul is mine for the taking. It feels good to be out of limbo and no longer having to say, ‘if I am offered the job.’ A little bit of limbo remains because I have not received approval for the trip next week, yet the travel agent sent me an itinerary and a question whether to confirm. Axel should be on that ticket but was not. A few wrinkles still need to be ironed out.

Yesterday was a quiet day, wedged in between the board’s work and the beginning of the conference. A bunch of us turned into tourists and signed up for a guided tour around the city of Charleston in the morning and an afternoon tour to the Magnolia Plantation on the banks of the Ashley River, some 10 miles upstream from the city.

Our group included a group a giggly group of (female) school teachers from California in their forties who could, collectively, answer all the questions from the tour guide and wrote down the answers they had missed in little notebooks. A quiet young woman turned out to be a newly minted captain in the US navy, docked in Charleston for the night; a young couple with a toddler and a newborn who fitted in her dad’s palm and never gave a peep during the entire day. By the end of the tour we were no longer a bunch of unrelated individuals but had bonded and talked between and across rows of seats.

As we entered the bus the guide asked each of us where we came from (Philly, Boston) and I could see him mentally adjust his teaching plan. He was going to be gentle with us and show how good the South had been (with their slaves), how scared and vulnerable ordinary people had been and what a shame that 32 of the plantations along the river had been burned and sacked, depriving us of this part of America’s heritage.

The guide talked fast and southern making it more like a foreign language to me. I was exhausted by the time we left the city and wiped out by the time we were delivered back at our dorms. But it had been a great day and, in contrast to my short visit last October, I had a much better feel for the place. Charleston’s main source of income is from people like us. The tourist business runs like a well-oiled machine with thousands of people playing their well rehearsed roles. It was a flawless performance.

It gets hot here and humid. Just like in the kinds of places I visit in Africa and Asia. It’s a little taxing for people not used to it or who are carrying excess bodyweight around. I can see them thinking about weight loss programs. We haven’t seen too many locals with extra weight. Mostly skinny boys and girls dressed to the nines. This is particularly amazing given the fried food they eat here.

Our conference kicked off with an extraordinary session run by Jim Clawson from UVA’s Darden School of Business. Part theatre, part teaching, he affirmed all the principles that we use in our leadership program and kicked at problem-driven leadership work and achievement-focused goal setting with some wonderful and compelling examples while creating a space for all of us in the audience to make connections with others. It was a flawless kick-off for a conference about good teaching and good learning.

This morning I woke up very early – it was still dark outside. My mind was full of thoughts about the impending move to Afghanistan and everything that needs to be handed over before September. I went out for a walk in the cool and empty city, looking for coffee and anxious to clear my mind. I got both tasks accomplished and am now studying the program through an Afghan lens. What sessions and which teachers will help me when I am over there?

Off duty

We finished our last day of Board meetings yesterday at exactly 5:30 PM after another full day of meetings in our plush board room. We ended with a high energy exercise about everything that we knew needed attention and repair. That is now for others to fix and attend to, as we outgoing board members hand over our batons to the newly elected ones.

Part of the reward for doing board work is that you get to eat out in interesting restaurants a lot and have long and leisurely dinners for three nights in a row. We celebrated our accomplishments and the transitions in Virginia’s Kitchen, a lovely restaurant in an old house; we had the upstairs room which looked like a museum, all to ourselves; this time there was no music to compete with.

Over dinner people took turns to speak about what Magid and I had brought to the board. It was incredibly affirming and at times surprising to hear people talk about what I, as an outsider to this academic society, an interloper in my view, had brought to the table. I am, they say here, from the real world, with the emphasis on ‘real.’

I spoke about my introduction to this society now nearly 20 years ago and what a journey it had been and how incredible to have been elected to the Board. Still, despite the fact that I know many people well, it remains an alien culture and I will never speak its language like a native.

The menus in restaurants here are so very different from those in the north. Yesterday’s dishes were variations on fried food encircled by grits and collard greens or sausage and seasfood in a rich soup or sauce. For Axel the combination required an emergency visit to CVS to buy antacids. Lucky for me CVS also sells wine, beer and ice cream – attractive items to put in our oversized and entirely empty refrigerator as we are getting ready for the conference to begin later today.

Axel has learned much about the southern perspective on the civil war. People are still upset and the view is quite different from the one we get up north. Today I am partially off duty: we have to refine out design for the session we are doing on Friday about mind mapping. But most of today we can play untill about 5 PM when the conference starts with much shrieking and hugging and kissing as we see dear friends we have missed for an entire year.

The limbo continues about Afghanistan and I check my mail several times a day in the hope of finally knowing, one way or the other, so I can make plans about the future. But the Afghanistan team has not made its decision yet. And because of that no one is travelling to Kabul on Monday, not Axel, not me. The bad news is that this was about the only window for such a trip; the good news is that I now have a chance to use up some more vacation days that will go ‘poof’ in 2 weeks, weed the garden and eat our first harvest of lettuce.

Feelings

Today is my last day on the Board of OBTS. At the end of the day, Magid and I will be let go and leave the work and the many tasks to those who were elected after us or who were appointed and took on another term. It is a dedicated group of people; strong personalities with opinions and a tremendous amount of experience as teachers and faculty members.

To this day, despite my long exposure to this group (I have been coming to these annual conferences for 17 years) the world of academe remains an alien culture. There are expressions and abbreviations that people use all the time that I cannot seem to keep straight. I have asked but forgot; they are meaningless for me. Issues of tenure, research versus teaching and grading are irrelevant to me but stand center stage in this culture.

I brought everyone their party bags, a tradition I inherited from my predecessor and embellished a little bit by not only putting in things that increase the trade deficit with China but also food for thought, candy and things to doodle with. The brightly colored party bags -primary colors only – stand out against the muted tones of the very corporate board room. Outside in the hall is a huge portrait of the center’s namesake, a local entrepreneur. He is painted running up stairs through a phalanx of clapping people, with a twinkle in his eyes. He looks very young for having made enough money to finance this building. Maybe that was part of the dream. Through this portrait he has secured eternal youth for himself and a place to meet and study for the generations to follow.

Axel in the meantime is on a historical tour and visits Fort Sumter while we do board business. He is tourist among many others in the muggy hot air while I freeze to death in the overcooled board room. We meet up for cocktails with the Doctoral Institute students and faculty who are just getting started with their pre-conference event.

Dinner is in a fancy restaurant, up carpeted stairs with a Steve Wonder look-alike playing the piano for the downstairs guests. We get the piped music. I am shocked at the prices on the menu but relax when I see a steak tartar appetizer that can function as a main course. It’s more than a main course and Axel finishes it off. And I have once again confirmed that I am weird: she wants to live in Afghanistan and eats raw meat. Everyone else around me had the more civilized variety of meat that is cooked, filet mignon that, most claim, is the best they ever had.

Axel and I don’t sit at the same table and so we haven’t had a chance to catch up on what he has done. Instead he talks with other guys his age about the feelings triggered by our possible move east – at least I think that’s what he was doing. Imagine that, men talking about feelings! It could have been a group of women together. This is what’s so nice about this bunch of people who have been so welcoming to both of us over the years.

Southern clutter

A straight flight down from Boston brought us to the South. This is a very different place. All the street names are reminders of the love/hate relationship with Britain. Liberty Street and George (or King) Street are side by side. It’s a very different place from New England: the architecture, the palm trees and the way women are dressed. There is no grunge look here. The southern belles we pass in the evening wear elegant dresses, long and short, with strapless tops if they can. And then there is the drawl; lovely.

We converged from all sides of the US to this place for our 1st board meeting of the year that precedes the annual conference. There are about 20 of us, always some new to the board and some going off, like me. With this last meeting I will have completed my three-year term.

A few others have brought spouses who joined us for this first informal event of our agenda – good food, catching up with news and ‘checking in.’ During the brief pauses of the phenomenal guitar players who augmented the restaurant’s ambiance we took turn talking about what was new, good or bad, since we last saw each other in October. I got to break the news about my wish to move to Afghanistan, which few people understand. For some it is like saying, I have decided to go to the moon. But others get it; that this is a huge and interesting professional challenge.

After dinner we returned to our dormitory. The conference organizers have put us in the nice dorms. I suspect we are in the graduate student dormitory: suites with three rooms, a kitchen, bathroom and small sitting area. We managed to fill up the few horizontal surfaces and the tiny space with our stuff in no time – even though we brought very little stuff with us. It never ceases to amaze me quick we can clutter up a place, any place.misc 014

All the suites are located around an open air courtyard that has a picnic table and a sofa and armchairs in it. They are made to look like the real things, but out of colorful plastic – like you would expect in a modern art museum. It rains here a lot and the dark puddles of standing water on the sofa and chair where the cushions would have been attest to this fact. It’s a small design flaw that makes them useless after weeks of rain.misc 015

Our dorm looks out over the backside of buildings; a parking place with a bunch of containers which, we discovered, are emptied at about 3 AM by large trucks that make much noise for a long time.


March 2026
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