Archive for the 'On the road' Category



Thursday, December 20, 2007

I joined a small group of people, most of them nutritionists, as they continued their strategizing about how to implement a Gates Foundation -funded project aimed at moving the nutrition agenda forward in a number of countries with high levels of malnutrition and stunted growth of children. They had met earlier with a larger group in Geneva. At that meeting seeds were planted to explore alternatives to UN expert-driven needs assessments. I was invited as a change management expert and was asked to answer the question: what are the components of readiness for change and how do you assess these?

We met on the 10th floor of the UNICEF building in a small windowless meeting room. Because we were less than 20 people, as per UNICEF’s rules, we did not get coffee or lunch catered, so we drank water from little plastic cups until our coffee break that required descending 10 floors.

It was a new world for me, with new abbreviations and jargon and peopled with professionals who had known each other for many years. The meeting was very informal; a good thing, as I went way over the minutes allocated to my presentation. Although what I presented resonated with people’s experiences, it also put some question marks around the planned agenda items as I questioned the underlying premises of their design. It was perfect because my intervention (an expert coming in presenting new ways of doing things) mimicked exactly what this group planned to do in the targeted countries. I asked them to reflect on that experience, of being on the other side of the change initiative. The same things came up that they will have to deal with in their work: discomfort about suggestions of abandoning familiar process in exchange for something that is not taught in nutrition school; worry about time pressures, the extra work, losing some control and not being able to rely on their own professional networks to provide expertise in large group process facilitation.

Andre Gide said “One doesn’t discover new lands without consenting to lose sight of the shore for a very long time.” Some people in the group were ready to push off and others were more cautious. One thing everyone agreed on is that they would need lots of leadership, and they would need it at all levels. It was a congenial group of people and I enjoyed spending a day with them.

I left the meeting before it was over, not wanting to miss my flight. I added an extra hour to the departure time suggested by my hosts which was smart. Between the taxi ride and the security line I used up two full hours, only to find out that my flight was delayed by one hour.

My taxidriver was from Bangladesh. He spent the first 45 minutes of our ride talking incessantly to me. I learned everything about his kids, he dictated me cooking instructions for making Tandoori chicken the Bangladeshi way (much better than the Indian way of course), pausing after each cooking step to ask me ‘do you understand?’ Then he moved on to recite (and explain) the entire menu of the restaurant ‘Curry in a Hurry’ operated by a friend of his. At that time I began to tune out and watch the 10th iteration of a looping TV show on local eateries in Manhattan that serve high cholesterol breakfasts (I had seen the same loop also for one hour on my way into Manhattan on Wednesday evening). Luckily his cellphone rang and the next half hour I was treated to a loud and excited telephone conversation in Bangla. I recognized the frequent ‘atcha’s’ which I believe means something like OK. Sometimes it wasn’t clear who he was talking to, so from time to time I made a sound that showed I was paying attention.

I did little walking yesterday but when I did, upon my arrival at the airport, I suddenly realized I walked normally. I toed off the way I am supposed to and I think my gait was indistinguishable from other normal walkers. It felt great and very different from my walking a day earlier. I had hoped that I had entered a new phase of my foot’s recovery or maybe I was simply well rested. At any rate it gave me a boost. This morning, however, I woke up with a new set of pains in my foot. My body seems quite adept at inventing new discomforts….and so the beat goes on.

Sunday, November 18, 2007

Last night I went to a reunion/alumni event at the Societeit Minerva in
Leiden. This is a socio-cultural phenomenon that is nearly impossible to explain to anyone who does not know about traditional student life in
Holland. It was a gathering of hundreds of gentlemen, generally well off, mostly in grey suits and with grey hair, and smattering of women (the male society merged with the women’s society in 1972) in a cavernous hall that is completely brawl- and beerproof. It smells and looks that way. There is not a square inch of loveliness to be found in that place. Even architecturally it is a monster but it is most functional. The event, I suspect, generates nostalgic reminiscences, family updates and inquiries into retirement. I watched and participated in it both as an alumna myself and as a foreigner. There is nothing quite like it. It is, from an American perspective, totally not politically correct (no diversity in the room, no handicapped access). I tried to forget about my foot because sitting down was imposisble until dinner started, quite late in the evening.

I had arrived very early in the morning at Schiphol airport after a mostly smooth flight. KLM cabin personnel had once again been very sollicitous and put an aluminum container in front of my seat so I could keep my leg up during the flight. I did not sleep much; nights remain somewhat difficult in anything that is not a flat bed.

My taxidriver to Den Haag was a young man from Jalalabad who had fled with his family from Pakistan to
Holland some 10 years ago. We spoke in Dutch the entire trip.
Holland is his new country. He dropped me off at my brother’s place. My sister-in-law Greet who is a Re-Balancing therapist, gave me a treatment in the morning which was happily received by my worn body. I emerged relaxed and slowed down to a crawl to find my other brothers Reinout and Willem with their mates who came to see the new, repaired and, hopefully, improved me. We had a noisy reunion where everyone talks at the same time. This is genetic. It can be rather intimidating to more introverted types. We, born into it, are masters of the craft.

The only one missing was my sister Ankie. She returned to her
Brussels home from a hospital stay and was not quite ready to drive down to Den Haag. Instead we had a very long phone call comparing hospital experiences, abdominal scars and the recovery process. After a wonderful lunch we visited the Mauritshuis, a lovely small museum at the government center in the center of Den Haag to see an extraordinary exhibit of seventeen-and eightteen-century Dutch portraits from the most famous painters
Holland has ever known. One couple painted 300 years ago that had been languishing on their separate panels in musea in different countries, were reunited again. You can imagine what a happy event that was.

On December 5th we Dutch celebrate Saint Nicholas day (Sinterklaas). The Saint arrives usually a few weeks before. What luck! While in the museum, Sint Nicolaas arrived on his white horse at the square next the the museum. From our second floor window we could see the action in a side alley where Sint’s horse trailer was waiting to take the horse back to wherever it came from. Americans, I suspect will find it a very bizarre thing: an old bearded man, dressed like a bishop (one piece of clothing that has not changed over the centuries) sitting on a white horse with tens of white people whose faces have been painted black so they look like royal slaves, dressed in the garments that were in fashion in the 1560s. They all have the same name (Zwarte Piet, Black Peter) and throw small spice cookies and candy that they carry around in pillow cases into the mass of kids and their parents who have gathered to watch the event. I can see it through the eyes of an American because I am an American. My Afghan taxi driver admitted that at first he thought it was a weird celebration. But now, after ten years in
Holland, he and his family enthusiastically participate in the event and think little about what it really portrays. It is much like Christmas in other parts of the world, a feast where, originally, the rich give gifts to the poor.

I was dropped (off) in
Leiden and met five women friends from my yearclub in a small restaurant to catch up in an environment more conducive than the cavernous hall for conversation. We had seen each other in June for some other nostalgic event and so we continued form there. Of course everyone wants to hear my story. There was actually not that much to tell since they have all followed Caringbridge and know most of what there is to know. Each had brought a poem that they had written or a favorite from a Dutch poet and a gift to celebrate my second life. I was touched deeply and will be reading through all this quietly again on my flight back to
Boston.

I came home at 1 AM from the
Leiden event. It was probably a bit much for someone in recovery like me but I would not have missed it for the world. And now, back home.

Friday, November 16, 2007

I am waiting to board my plane. It is no yet Saturday but when I land in Amsterdam it will be. The last day of the workshop was inspiring beyond belief. Nine teams who had started on their leadership journey late May reported on what had changed as a result of their taking control and responsibility for the success of their hospital or department. Our new facilitators-to-be were listening with amazement. Group after group showed us how they had taken up a challenge and improved something that had an impact on many. Some showed graphs about immunizations. I visualized the parents of children who will live because of these vaccination improvements. It is maybe a drop in the bucket, but some family tragedies are averted because of it.

Each team was proud and full of confidence. If they can change this, they can change that, they reasoned. They are unstoppable now. Something has been set in motion. And because they learned and grew as a team, when one despairs, the others can pull the despairing member up. Several people mentioned that their family life has improved as well. I wished I could peek into all those lives but I am content just to hear the stories.

My colleague Mary O’Neil flew in on Thursday night from Boston. She is on an around-the-world tour. She arrived just in time to catch the presentation from the HR team from the central ministry of health. HR is Mary’s field so the timing was perfect. The closing ceremony of our workshop was both moving and fun. And then it was time to say goodbye. Everybody was sent off with a blessing and a wish to change Kenya for the better. I checked out of the hotel and Ida drove us to the lovely lunch restaurant next to the physical therapy place. After lunch I showed up for my last PT appointment in Kenya. While I was being treated, this time by Lula from Norway who is as much a citizen of the world as her Danish colleague Karen, Ida compiled her to-do lists in the restaurant garden next door. I was picked (up) from Ida’s home by John and Carol and met at the airport by Kyeri who guided me swiftly through check-in, immigration and to the lounge where I am writing from now. It’s a good start of a journey that worried me a bit.

Thursday, November 15, 2007

Late September when I signed on for this assignment the 16th of November looked like a long way off. It would be the day that I would know whether going to Kenya was foolish (as some around me said) or whether I could handle an assignment like that again. So the day has arrived and I am still in one piece. The piece is a little sore, especially its lower extremity because it was a very very long workday yesterday; actually it was a very long and intense week. But here I am, November the 16th and I am flying home tonight.

Yesterday started at 6 AM with my usual morning routines that include exercises under the shower and then outside the shower. By then I am usually limber enough to walk fairly normally to the breakfast restaurant which is one flight down and then a short walk past the swimming pool. After that I am being picked. Here in Kenya I am not picked up but picked, just like I am dropped, not dropped off, at the end of the day. The driver takes me to KIA, a ride of about 15 minutes if we are early enough. Then comes the set up for the day, turning on the music so that people can come waltzing in and ready to focus on the tasks ahead.

Yesterday morning was a little different because I taught a short catch up session for people who had missed it on Monday morning on adult learning. I have a lot of fun with this session. I bombard them with a fast lecture about adult learning and violate all the principles that are written on my powerpoint slides. In my reflection afterwards we uncover the feelings people had while I lectured them. After they are sure that they can be honest with me and they get past the customary politeness to professors, especially a foreigner with grey hair, I ask them if I did a good job teaching them, what they think they’ll remember from it and how they’d grade me. I am pleased when I get the lowest grade possible; I should. The rest of the program we will honor the principles of adult learning and they see how, understand why. Now they know.

In the evening there was much to do because on the eve of the last day nothing can be postponed anymore. My foot protested and I slept with it propped up on several pillows. This morning it refused to bear weight by itself, something I know it can do. I am glad I scheduled one more physical therapy session this afternoon. Ida and I will see Josephine and her little girl in the hospital (she has tonsilitis we now know) before I head out to the airport in the evening. KLM is scheduled to depart at 11:10 PM for Amsterdam.

Wednesday, November 14, 2007

Yesterday was the 14th. I am still counting in months. It now has been 4 months. I don’t think all that much about the crash anymore, except when people ask why I am limping, which I do especially on my way to or from the dining hall. It is a bit of a hike and I can’t quite hide the limp. Those are the only times and I am factual and brief in my reply. But last evening, while Eunice gave me my last massage, the image of me losing control of the plane suddenly re-appeared out of nowhere and I found my whole body going rigid, right in the middle of the massage. And then it passed. I guess there is still a part inside me someplace that has not quite come to terms with what happened. My EMDR therapy has been interrupted for three weeks and it is obvious that I am not quite done with it, no matter how good I may look and how much I appear to have resumed my old life.

And so I switch my focus from the big global picture of poverty and maternal and infant mortality to my recovering body. I can’t quite control it as it happens without my intent or consent: a body part complains and wants attention. I respond with a massage and a warm bath. When all had calmed down again I went to bed.

We have passed the halfway point of the workshop and my departure is in sight, tomorrow, in fact. The work is not quite done but we are on track and everyone is learning, as intended. This includes me. I continue to learn about working across cultural and other boundaries. From time to time there are surprises; about how seemingly innocuous words or acts that were meant to serve a common goal are received quite differently on the other end. Our collective challenge, on all sides of the many divides (culture, age, gender, profession, you name it), is to keep talking, distinguish intents from interpretations, consider impact and then move on, everyone a bit wiser. Such experiences reinforce my resolve to get better at what I believe I am supposed to do on this earth (and maybe why I was given a second chance) which is to help us learn to have productive, rather than destructive conversations about things that matter. There will be more of this today, no doubt.

Tuesday, November 13, 2007

Josephine’s little girl is sick. We sent her home to be with her. She is admitted to the hospital. The health of our children is precious and we don’t realize it until they fall ill. We worry when the doctor cannot tell us what is wrong and the medicines don’t work. But Josephine is among the lucky ones: she has access to doctors, medicine and a hospital. Our work here is for people for whom this is out of reach, a luxury they cannot afford or access. As a consequence their babies die of preventable or treatable illnesses. It is a frightening thought to imagine such a tragedy. Josephine’s worry grounds me as it reminds me of why I am here. I once had a large button made for participants in a workshop here in Kenya, many years ago. Against a background of the colors of the Kenyan flag it says in big white letters “Why Am I Here?” Sita had put that same button on the lamp next to my bed when I first came back from the hospital on July 21. William wore that button on the opening day of this workshop. It is not a bad thing to ask oneself that question periodically

We completed day two of the workshop and tried to get the participants as much grounded in the philosophy, methodology, concepts and tools of the leadership program as is possible in a short time. With life interfering, as it did with Josephine, or other commitments that pull people in and out, our facilitation team is never complete. I am blessed with a team of colleagues that is so flexible that they can handle this reality without batting an eye. I made a point of sitting down more often and putting my legs up while William and Ida ran sessions.

After the workshop was over we drank our tea hastily and went downtown. That sounds easier than it is. We inched our way to the Hilton Hotel which took a good 45 minutes. I caught the nurses in their last hour of work. They were from all over Eastern and Southern Africa as well as the Commonwealth Secretariat from London which sponsored the event. We had a wonderful conversation about what makes midwives and nurses in general effective or ineffective in their work. They had already put subjects in their curriculum that I believe are critical but usually missing such as self awareness, group and power dynamics. The examples I knew about why they need these topics resonated with everyone.

Afterwards Ida picked me up and we had an Indian dinner. Back home a few more exercises, my footbath and email checking routine and then to bed. And now, while I am writing I am multi-tasking again, Skyping with Axel and Tessa at the same time as they are winding down their day and I am ramping up mine. I am already in their tomorrow.

Monday, November 12, 2007

Yesterday things started to speed up. If I had not gotten that idea myself my dreams last night would have informed me. They were of the multi-tasking and sensory overload type such as trying to answer a phone when a noisy speaker truck drives by (the type they use here n Nairobi to broadcast election messages). But there were also babies being born, old movie reruns with extras I knew and a doctor’s check-up. For now I will let these swirl around in my mind while I figure out which marching orders my subconscious has hidden in these dream for me for today. I suspect there is something in them about letting go and letting something be born while taking care of myself. The latter will be a challenge as today I will do double duty: after the workshop I will jump in a taxi and head down-town for a work session with East African nurses who are re-writing the nursing curriculum in the Hilton Hotel. That’s how these things work here. They asked me to talk with them about adding something better in it about management and leadership than what they currently have: theories from dead white men from the US.

Yesterday I had set my alarm very early so I could do my exercises, write in my journal, have breakfast and be on time for Josephine and John to pick me up around 7 AM. When we got to the venue at the Kenya Institute of Administration (KIA) Ida and William were already there, preparing. There was still much to be done, and there were the usual ‘start-of-workshop’ glitches. But we pulled together nicely as a team and the day unfolded much as we had expected, except for the fact that we were missing some the KIA faculty (even though we are at their place) and we were all very cold. In Kenya there are also climate surprises; global warming has made the usual weather pattern unusual.

It was a long day and even longer as there was homework for all of us and for me more exercises, footbaths and all that. Being up and on my feet most of the day took its toll: my foot was swollen and stiff, my neck and shoulders sore. The icepack was waiting in my mini fridge and did the job while I soaked my foot and answered my email; I can do all these things at the same time.

Sunday, November 11, 2007

I woke up from a dream in which I was presented with two choices: do something entrepreneurial and creative, or unload a car and add more stuff to a place that was already very full. Axel was encouraging me to go with the creative choice but I got busy loading more stuff into the room which required organizing what was already in there. I am not sure what this is all about other than getting mentally ready for the workshop that begins in a couple of hours.

Sunday was very quiet as I had intended it to be. I did go to Quaker meeting. This meeting is different than ours in that there are books on the table, several Bibles, Faith and Practice and other holy books and one can do contemplative reading during the meeting for worship. One of the members read a passage from Mark. It is the story of Jesus driving out the evil spirit from a, presumably, epilectic boy. The father of the boy had asked Jesus “if you can do anything, take pity on us and help us.” To which Jesus replied, “If you can? Everything is possible for him who believes.” The story is about the transformational power of believing in something. This is very much the core of our leadership program, here and elsewhere. The transformation occurs when someone believes in something enough to propel him or herself into action; when others see that, some will follow and become believers as well, attracting others. If you have enough of those who believe, things begin to change. This is how social change happens.

The theme reminded me of an interview I once read by Edmond Desmond in 1989 with Mother Teresa in which she said “I am like a little pencil in his [God’s] hand. That is all. He does the thinking. He does the writing. The pencil has nothing to do with it. The pencil has only to be allowed to be used.” And then I thought about the three of us in the plane wreck, three broken pencils, unable to write. And now, nearly four months later, here I am in Nairobi, with a newly sharpened point. I may not be quite like a brandnew pencil, but I am very ready to write again. And the work, not surprising, is about transformation.

Sunday, November 11, 2007

Whatever I had done on Friday, the effects continued the next day. I was so full of confidence about my progress but yesterday was discouraging. It was good that Eunice came for my massage at 8 AM. Even so, I had a hard time walking to the breakfast restaurant, which requires descending stairs and then walking over uneven pavement. I had wanted to go downtown and walk around a bit or to the museum, not wanting to stay in my room all day. Walking around did not seem a good idea anymore. I ended up going to the national archives, on Joseph’s and Kristen’s suggestion. It was small enough that I could manage a little less than one hour on my feet. It was hard as it was without any places to sit.

The Kenya National Archives are located in an old building that used to be the Bank of India in the very old days. It is a temple like building and must have looked quite imposing in the center of old Nairobi before it got overshadowed by much taller buildings. But now, with a new paint job, it looked quite charming in the middle of the pollution and chaos of downtown. The ground floor is filled with many artifacts from various Kenyan tribes, sometimes in unlit cases so you can’t really see what’s inside but beautiful craft work nevertheless. Then there are small displays of artifacts from neighboring and other African countries. Upstairs was a rather dusty exhibit of large photographs of many people, white and black, who are presented as heroes but who were in real life villains, crooks and criminals, who enriched themselves beyond belief at the expense of the country. Some were also responsible for unthinkable brutality. I found it hard to look at these glorified pictures. They are collectively responsible for most if not all the current messes.

I was dying to look into some of the old and worn file folders that were on display in glass cases containing official government correspondence on various topics. According to a sticker on them, these folders were open to the public for viewing as they were more than 50 years old. But you could not just lift up the cover and look inside them. I required probably something more than I was prepared to engage in.

The rest of the day I did stay in my room. I took a nap, did some reading and prepared for the workshop. I had a wonderful video skype chat with Tessa and Steve. The webcam allows me to have a full screen window into their room. I could see them play with the new puppy. With this new technology you have to get dressed and be somewhat decent before you sit down at the computer. No more skyping without any clothes on!

Friday, November 9, 2007

For a short while I could do an amazing trick yesterday during the day: standing on my bad foot only, I was able to push up on my toes and lift my heel about half an inch from the ground. It was a little easier with shoes on; then I could lift my heel even higher. I was so excited that I could do this finally. But then, in the evening, no doubt because of my physical therapy and the long walk, I reverted back to my earlier stiffness. And the few times during the night I got up to go to the bathroom my foot was so stiff that I could hardly walk. Now, in the morning I wonder how I managed my trick from yesterday. It seems impossible again.

This morning I woke up from many dreams. One includes Joan, doing well but with a greatly disfigured arm. In another dream I had lost my place in the middle of a powerpoint presentation which included a reading from a book. I even had forgotten the title of my presentation and the place in the book where I was supposed to read from. I had hoped that Axel would help me out but he didn’t. He was busy with something else. The people in the audience either did not seem to notice or were infinitely patient with me, until some weird screensaver kicked in. Then Axel started to search frantically with me. I am glad I woke up. There were many more dreams or parts of one long dream; chaotic, bizarre with me always looking for Axel who was busy or having a great time. I was the one who wanted to leave.

Friday was a half day at the office. Josephine and I worked hard on getting all the materials together and finishing the writing and copying of session handouts and teaching notes. We had a brief meeting with Mokaya from the Kenya Institute of Administration who will be part of our team. He is also teaching full time so it is hard to get a hold of him. We were able to meet with him briefly before the start of his class. He asked about Axel who he has never met. Because they are following our recovery on Caringbridge, many people feel they know Axel and follow his recovery like they are following mine. I get such a kick out of this.

When the lights in the office were being turned off and people started to leave I got nervous. During previous visits I was completely independent. I would walk to and from my hotel, an easy walk if you are sure-footed. Now I cannot do this so easily, especially with all the stuff I carry along. I felt a bit helpless as people are starting to leave and I had not been able to get a taxi. This is the part of my current condition that creates much anxiety; little things like this that I never even thought about before. The world is an entirely different place if you can’t walk that well. When Josephine finally left an hour later she noticed I was still there. Her husband, waiting for her in the car downstairs, gave me a lift to the hotel.

I had another physical therapy session with Karen and although it was once again pretty intense, I felt great afterward. Either foolishly or bravely I walked, far too long (explaining my current stiffness and soreness no doubt) over nonexisting or very uneven sidewalks to a nearby shopping center. It was very hard work. I walked partially because it would be faster than the traffic but also because I had wanted to check out Dr. Li’s Chinese Herbal Remedies and Acupuncture clinic. I was curious about acupuncture by a real Chinese doctor. He had successfully cured Karen’s son-in-law from allergies. Unfortunately the clinic is closed on weekends, so no acupuncture this time.

At the Uchumi supermarket, amidst thousands of Indian shoppers preparing for their Dawali festival tonight, I stocked up on such survival items as chocolate and chips for late night snacks next week. Gone are all my good intentions from the early recovery period when I avoided anything that was unwholesome and that would surely distract my body from healing. I am still avoiding the alcohol on behalf of the nerves, however.

Ida and I had a wonderful dinner in a garden restaurant and were finally able to catch up on our lives. When we meet in a work setting we never get around to that. Later Sita Skyped me and we watched each other on videos through our webcams. I showed her my hotel room and droopy flowers and I could see her cats and even the weather outside. We made faces at each other. She is off to Delhi in a couple of weeks for another interesting assignment.

There were loud bangs throughout the evening and the night. These were fireworks from Dawali revelers, not gunshots. They sound the same as I remember from Lebanon.


May 2026
M T W T F S S
 123
45678910
11121314151617
18192021222324
25262728293031

Categories

Blog Stats

  • 141,177 hits

Recent Comments

Edith Maxwell's avatarEdith Maxwell on Boosted out
Sallie Craig Huber's avatarSallie Craig Huber on Rays for real
Lucy's avatarLucy on Probabilities
Olya's avatarOlya on Cuts
Olya Duzey's avatarOlya Duzey on The surgeon’s helpers

Enter your email address to follow this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email.

Join 78 other subscribers