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A very long drive

I took Friday off to celebrate part one of Sita’s birthday by introducing her to some amazing folks in her neck of the woods. These are connections through other connections that were random, or may be not, starting with a plane ride to Dhaka. I have a friend who met her husband on a plane ride to South Africa, these things happen and are wonderful. After a three hour ride we arrived in beautiful Ahsfield on a gorgeous fall day. We had a winter soup lunch and talked about complex adaptive systems, mathematical models, large group methods and working around the world.

Although we were not done talking, we had to leave, late in the afternoon to pick up Jim and the Bunwinkies’ instruments for a show in Worcester. The Bunwinkies were playing without their drummer and their male lead singer, making it an all women band except for Jim. It was the first time we saw them perform; we were in charge of the baby, a charge we shared with the other oma and opa who drove up from Beverly. We were the only people over 40 in an old firehouse that had been bought by 10 young men who’d made it into a very interesting living space with lots of space for band practice and performance on the ground flour.

The bunwinkies followed a guitarist whose poems we couldn’t quite understand but made wonderful music. Everytime people clapped Faro would startle throwing his arms wide open, then fall asleep again. By the time his mom and dad were on he had fallen asleep again, missing a wonderful performance, with Sita on lead guitar. This girl continues to amaze us. We left after the Bunwinkies had finished their act, knowing that Sita could look after Faro again. Besides, it was past our bedtime. After midnight when we tumbled into bed, I realized we had driven more than 200 miles.

The next day was Sita’s real birthday and continued with part two.  Seeing her now at 32 years, a mother herself, brought back many memories. She commented that birthdays should really be celebrations of motherhood and that it was the mother of the birthday person who should be acknowledged and feted.

We gave her a massage by Abi as a birthday present, knowing it would be exactly what she needed (it was). While she was relaxing I shopped for the ingredients of a rijsttafel, an Indonesian culinary extravaganza that required an entire day of cooking, another birthday present. We are now all of the age at which it is people’s time and effort rather than material gifts, that are the best birthday presents. I had assigned Axel and Jim a dish each (coconut chicken and beef rendang) while I took care of the remaining dishes (nasi goreng, telor bumbu, atjar, gado-gado and peanut sauce). All the spoons, bowls, cutting boards and knives in the house were used and re-used, making the kitchen look like a battlefield.

By the time the guests arrived (2 pairs of in-laws) I was exhausted. They ate, provided lots of compliments and then cleaned up the kitchen when not hanging out with our collective grandchild. We concluded Sita’s birthday watching Hercule Poirot after all the guests had left. Sita loves Poirot so much that for his first haloween Faro will be Hercule – the costume is already purchased, he has a pacifier with a Poirot mustache, only the white spats are missing.  His dad will be Captain Hastings (repeating ‘Good Lord’ over and over again) and Sita will be Miss Lemon. They will be quite a trio.

Pride and energy

We are treated to another visit of Sita and Faro. Early Thursday we got up what seemed to be in the middle of the night, fed and packed up the baby with all his gear, dropped him off in Beverly, where his (only) retired oma lives and then proceeded to Cambridge where Sita had a one day assignment, scribing for some company we had never heard of but which seems to be doing good work to help people stay or become healthy. All stops were conveniently on the way to work.

During the drive in Sita gave me some good ideas for a global conference I am asked to design and facilitate next spring in Southern Africa. It is the best thing a mother can wish for, to get advice from her daughter on matters related to work. I wished she could be there with me, like we were working as a pair in Afghanistan, 6 years ago.

In the morning we had our quarterly global meeting at MSH. It is a carefully orchestrated and painstakingly prepared event with voices coming in from all over the world – We have come a long way to inclusivity and it was nearly flawless: Islamabad was on the line, with Sania Nishtar, the founder of an organization called heartfile that helps the Pakistani government address the rise of chronic diseases, soon to outperform the infectious diseases. In the (US) Midwest a researcher told us about his Blue Zones work, trying to identify the secrets of longevity (no surprises there: diet, family, community, meditation and such), a colleague in Uganda showed how chronic diseases detection and treatment have been incorporated in the work MSH is usually engaged in.

I reflected on my year back at MSH which started so badly and realized I can once again be proud to belong to this organization I felt so abandoned by last fall. It was an inspiring meeting.

The rest of the day I was invited to learn about a new technology platform MSH has purchased that allows us to design courses online and track who has taken what course. It is truly a Big Brother arrangement because just about anything the learner does can be tracked, except maybe picking his or her nose.

While we were learning about how to build a course my hands were itching to design a real course. I notice a surge of energy each time I am engaged in something creative and a drip-drip loss of energy when I am not.

The new consortium we are part of with John Hopkins allows for lots of creativity, in fact it promised innovative approaches to our funder. I am busy reading up on how insights and innovations happen and am, once again, energized by that.  I am also given the opportunity to become an accredited coach. One of the companies we are considering for the training has an energy model as its basic philosophy. It looks like all energy streams are coming together.

Zooming in and zoning out

I am zooming in on the next two trips and the last two of this year (Bangladesh and Japan).  Once again I am mired in arranging flights, trying to get good seats and mentally preparing for another set of long flights. This last trip alone, to Dhaka, fills me with trepidation as it is very, very long, spread over 3 calendar days.

I am enjoying being home. A surprise visit of Faro and his parents this week helped shorten the time I had counted down to see him. It was a quick visit but enough to take measurements for a scarf and mittens, and marvel at how fast he is growing. He was no longer dressed like a baby, with herringbone trousers that include a small change pocket and a cellphone pocket, a striped T-shirt that made him look very French and the bear hat to cover his still bold head.

We worked in the garden and I tried to convert the harvest into a variety of meals: soups, kitchari, apple pie, apple sauce and tomato salads. I am making up for lost veggie meals.

We have had a rather active social life with meals in restaurants, at friends’ homes and standing by the counter.  My stomach has gotten rather confused by the change in diet, or maybe it is the new batch of anti-inflammatory pills that made me feel rather punky. As a result I missed the last debate between the presidential hopefuls.  At any rate, I have already voted, so it makes no difference (as if it would).

At work I am engaged in lots of small (near horizon) tasks and lots of reading.  The reading is to catch up with the world of health communications, understand their theories and latest research, so I can sit meaningfully at the table of the new project with Johns Hopkins, of which I am now part. I discovered a great website of the University of Twente, of all places, where someone went to great length to upload all the (health) communication theories, in English even.

Since the project is all about innovation I am also reading up on that topic and am learning about how to switch on my right hemisphere (daydreaming with a touch of awareness so as not to make it the same as zoning out).

Zoning out is actually what I would like to be doing right now.

Good and better

The best part of travel is coming home.  After a long flight to Amsterdam, a three hour wait at Schiphol that I filled with reviewing a report under a tight deadline, and another long flight I landed in my yellow-orange-red and green home state with Axel waiting at the gate. When I left it was still summer, now it is unmistakably fall.

We celebrated my homecoming with a dinner in one of my favorite restaurants in Gloucester (Alchemy). We were seated on a comfortable couch in a little alcove – with one glass of wine, nearly too comfortable, given that it was already past midnight in the places I had spent the last 5 weeks.

Back home I got to admire the new appliances that look very settled in – a new kitchen look I still need to get used to (I changed my mind about stainless steel but it is too late now). No more rattling death sounds from the old fridge and an over the stove exhaust fan (also stainless steel) to replace the greasy and rusty one that we bought nearly 20 years ago.

I texted Sita and Tessa about my safe return and got one text back from Indiana where Tessa and Steve are visiting Axel’s alma mater (IU) and taking nostalgia pictures when not visiting friends.

Sita is back from two trips to DC and told me our grandson is in the 100th percentile of height and the 90th percentile of weight. I am not sure what the universe of these percentiles is – I have a hard time imagining that 100 percent of the kids in that cohort are shorter. He is, according to his paternal grandmother, already at the weight his dad was at 1 year. Faro is not even 5 months.  I can’t wait to see him.

Axel has been busy, too busy, with estate management. Things got complicated when our electrical main, running through our new neighbor’s yard, was nearly clipped during excavation works for their new sun room’s foundation.  The engineer had neglected to put utility cables on the plan and, I am told, has now been fired. It could have been very messy.

As a result of the estate management complication he has neglected the garden a bit. It looks like a jungle, full of unpicked edibles. The beans were too shriveled up to eat so we will dry them and put them up. I harvested pints of tiny yellow tomatoes, a few sleek and bright purple Japanese eggplants, some cucumbers, some baseball-sized zucchini and Brussels sprouts. On the fruit front, our neighbor’s orchard is full of apples, many on the ground. He encouraged us to take as many as we want, which we did. I think today is going to be a cooking day.

At night we were among the first dinner customers of the new Foreign Market café/restaurant in town, finally opening for dinner. We were treated like long lost friends (I think Axel went there a few times while I was away) and enjoyed a lovely meal and great wine (South African), reconnecting with each other after this long absence. It is so good to be home!

Greens, reds, yellows and orange

The trip from Milan to Holland was a breeze, much easier than getting from our Bellagio apartment to Milan. Our short stopover in Aalsmeer was indeed short but sweet. Sietske waited for us at her usual place outside the departure hall and took us home.

She cooked us an incredible Italianesque meal that we consumed in front of the TV because of the Holland-Hungary soccer match that her husband, the Dutch national team’s physician, could not miss (of course). I think it was the first time in my life that I watched all 90 minutes of a game. The Dutch won, which made it more fun, while we enjoyed our exquisite meal, at par with the best we had in Italy.

The next day we completed the final leg of the trip, Amsterdam to Boston. It was smooth and felt fast, despite its 8 hours duration. I got more of the embroidery done for Faro, which should be completed by the time he is 70 cm tall as it is a Jip and Janneke height measuring device that starts at 70. I watched the Hemingway-Gellhorn film which is essentially a film about testosterone and how one lone woman manages to live with the hormone. Fascinating. Axel and I both watched Jane Eyre which made me realize that current Afghanistan and Jane’s England were not that different when it comes to women.

Tessa and Steve picked us up at Logan and brought us back to a house with suitcases and baby stuff strewn all over – masking Steve’s efforts to present a clean house upon our arrival. I didn’t mind, it was nice to be all back together. I got to hold the baby again and again and again while Sita and Jim caught up on work that needed to be done after their trip that had taken about 20 hours (including a missed connection).

It was a beautiful fall day, not that different from the Bellagio climate. I spent some time in the garden digging up about 10 pounds of potatoes (the last) and harvesting a bounty of chard, leeks, eggplant, tomatoes and beans. We ate very few vegetables in Italy, other than the occasional side salad and I had a craving for unprocessed greens, reds and yellows.

Axel had prepared all of us Aperol Spritzes invoking our wonderful vacation once more. Jim’s father came over to see how much his grandson had grown in the 10 days he had not seen him. At about 7:30 PM it was bedtime for me as it was after all a school night. In two more days I am back at Logan for the next trip.

Goodbyes

We left the house on Monday morning with everyone packed up except Axel and me.  For the others the 7 AM departure on Tuesday morning had suggested an overnight near the airport. The friendly United Airlines telephone artist sold them an overpriced sketchy hotel that would sleep three adults and a baby.

We had enough time for a morning, some coffee and a light lunch in Como, sitting across from the Duomo which was closed until the afternoon. Tessa stocked up on some last cheeses for friends in the US – which we get to carry – and then it was time for the difficult goodbye I had been dreading all morning.

Axel and I walked around some more in Como, eating one more gelato and looking for an ancient walk Axel had to see (we did, it looked mostly like all the other old walls in Europe) and contemplated which route to take back to Bellagio: the drive over the mountains through the middle of the Bellagio promontory, or the narrow zigzag road we had taken in the morning, along the eastern shore of the lake or the one on the western shore that the kids had taken on their way in and that required a ferry ride to Bellagio.  The best way would have been the slow (2 hour) ferry directly from Como to Bellagio but it didn’t take cars.

We decided on the west bank, partially because there was a supermarket on the way out of town we were told. As the last ones leaving our rental place, our job was to replace the supplies we had used. It took us an hour to find the one that was right next to the exit of our parking garage in Como.  Directions from non-English speaking Italians (we met very few who spoke more than a few words) have been rather sketchy throughout our trip. Actually, all directions, whether from maps, GPS or word of mouth were problematic as we discovered over and over again.

This was also true of advice about which wine to buy.  On the suggestion of a local shopper with whom he stood in line, Axel unwittingly bought a sweet bubbly red wine for our ‘cena ultima’ in Italy.  We only saw the word ‘frizzante’ printed on the bottom of the label after we had opened the bottle – buyer beware! I stuck with my white wine spritz(er) – the spritz part, we learned, is an Austrian invention.

The late afternoon ferry ride from Caddenabia was spectacular. We noticed that Bellagio was glowing gold in a Rembrandtesque sort of way– the only place on the shore catching the last two hours of direct sun rays because of a low ridge in the west. Anything left, right and across from Bellagio looked rather dull in comparison.

We joined the post vacation crowd on a terrace by the shore until the sun finally set, for our final vacation beer. We talked softly, trying not to reveal to the other, mostly mature, couples sitting around us that we were American. One hefty extraverted North Carolinian found us out. I think he was quite alert to find his own people (who would have imagined that I would count as ‘his people’).  After admitting that he had my silhouette on his sunset picture he struck up a conversation with Axel, who is always a good pal to chat with. Mrs. North Carolina, with her tightly bound up hair, did not seem to be much of a conversation partner, as she watched the sunset quietly sipping her prosecco.

We drove home to prepare our final odd meal that was entirely made of leftovers. It was a creative affair – what to do with two balls of fresh mozzarella, an end of salami, a chunk of aged parmesan cheese, one misshapen tomato, a droopy bunch of basil, half an onion, lots of garlic, cheap white wine in a carton, 7 raviolis, a container of pesto and another with spicy olives, two droopy bunches of lettuce, a pasta/arugula meal Axel cooked what seemed ages ago and half a container of tiramisu ice cream.

It turned out quite a feast. We made it a TV dinner, plugging the TV in for the first time.  We watched a detective in Italian – we didn’t quite get the conclusion – followed by a serial about fighting the mafia in Palermo – bad bearded Italian men killing each other. It was a variation on the familiar theme of bad bearded Afghan men killing each other, only a little more ingenious and with sexy bare-shouldered women involved. I didn’t get to see the end – Axel did stay on till the end, only to be told that next week’s installment would be the grand finale, without commercials.

Exactly at 9 AM the landlords stood on our doorstep, as we had requested while we still had an image of an early departure and a leisurely stroll through Milan. We hastily packed our breakfast and drove up the mountain to have our odd brunch on a panoramic lookout point that also appeared to be the site of some WWII atrocities. Being in Italy one gets confused about who did what to whom but the tributes to the land’s fallen ‘figlii’ (figlios) reminds you that war is not good for anyone on any side.

Learning from our landlord that it is impossible for foreigners like us without the right paperwork to drive into Milan, and that we would have to park just about where the airport is we decided to drop the Milan idea and drive slowly south along, what we had fantasized, would be picturesque country lanes. The drive would take us through Gorgonzola – why not?

It turned out a miscalculation that I should have known about, from my geography lessons in elementary school. As soon as you leave the Alps you are in industrious northern Italy. Industrious means countless trucks jamming up the roads. Between the roadmap that didn’t have road numbers, our on and off smartphone GPS and the chaotic multi-colored signage at major intersections we got so tied up in knots that we finally gave up our fantasy and heeded the signs pointing us to the Milano autostrada.

We arrived in plenty of time to deliver our car without any scratches at the Auto-Europe/Sicily-by-car car rental place. The Trip Advisor horror testimonials about renting a car in Italy did not match our experience by a long shot. I will write a counter-review to encourage the fearful. Car renting in this country is just as automated and painless as anywhere else in Europe or, for that matter, the US.

Last call for villas and villages

The two days of Sita’s vacation and our last days went faster than the wind. We spent both across the lake, checking out the picturesque villages and villas that are still whispering ‘watercolor us,’ but we were too busy moving around. It’s the tension between doing and being on vacation. Always.

Our favorite place, we decided, was Lenno, which has a Beach Club that makes the best apero spritzes and has a sandy beach – a rare thing here. Lenno also has the Villa del Balbianello, a spectacular combination of living spaces and gardens, with views over various parts of the lake from every nook and cranny.

Before it was finally gifted to the Fondo Ambiente Italiano, it belonged to an eccentric and ultra-rich Italian man. Aside from smoking a lot, which killed him when he was about my age, he also was into exploring: poles, mountain peaks, continents and whole civilizations, dead and alive. His villa was just the space to display all his acquisitions, including his 10 feet dogsled which took him to the North Pole, accompanied by a small army of men and dogs

His villa was adorned with 100s of prints from Lake Como as well as a unique and large painting-on-glass collection.  In the kitchen, which was originally a 11th century monastery, we recognized an original Brabantia broodtrommel (bread box) and a McCormick spice rack with 40 year old spices.

Getting to and from the villa required a steep hike up and down – this place was not for people with bad knees and hips, though for extra money one could get a water taxi to take you to the place. We opted for the walk at the hottest part of the day. Faro slept through the entire visit and was considered a good boy – quiet boys are good boys up to a certain age.

For dinner a friend of Sita’s from her ValueWeb network, invited us to his place further down the promontory, near Como.  A steep ride up and then down into the valley brought us, in two cars, to his place which was nearly as spectacular as the villa. The town of Erba is full of villas, though most appear uninhabitable, owned, according to our host, by the bankrupt state of Italy, waiting for better times.

Andrea and his Russian wife Irina and hairless dog Wicka (sp?) live on the top floor of what used to be a farm house. The rounded brick top of a cupola makes for the center of their living room – a place one should never get drunk in because a fall could be unpleasant. The couple are both artists/designers and have surrounded themselves which such interesting things that Faro couldn’t stop looking around event though he was beyond exhausted.

And now it is time for our farewell and I am in bit sad. The kids are leaving for Milan today because their flight leaves very early tomorrow morning – a long flight via Frankfurt and Newark to Boston.  We are following tomorrow on a late flight to Amsterdam, too late to catch our connecting flight to Boston. That was exactly the intent.

Feasts

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Yesterday was Sita’s last day at work and our task was to complete our exploration so that we knew exactly where to take her during her two days of vacation. We explored the east side of the Bellagio promontory, right under the conference center. In fact, the small harbor where we hung out the entire day was what we saw from Sita’s window on our first visit to her temporary workplace.

Our exploration was of the relaxed variety. We walk a few feet, turn a corner, see another amazing view and sit down for a while. We had already noticed the Pergola restaurant by the water and filed it away under the rubric ‘lunch.’ And before we knew it lunch time had arrived.

Axel drove Jim home in time for his American workday to start while Tessa and I took the steep up and down foot path to the west side to make a reservation at another idyllic eating place that was filed under ‘dinner’ – a place for all of us to celebrate the completion of Sita’s assignment.

By the time we had returned back to the east side we needed a swim, including Faro who had been riding in his Baby Bjorn on Tessa’s belly leaving each of them soaking wet. For the first time the attention Tessa received was not for her 3 feet of copper dreadlocks but for the baby. People here go crazy over babies.

We settled on the gravely beach, less pebbly than the free beach we discovered the day before. Faro had his first swimming experience – kicking his legs in the water like a pollywog, maybe remembering his last days in utero.

When Sita made the daily ‘pick-me-up’ call it was too bad she couldn’t simply walk down the garden path, swing her suitcase with her markers and breast pump over the high wall and request a leg-up from one of the many estate gardeners.  Instead Tessa walked once again over the ridge with Faro to reunite with a relieved and happy Sita.

In the evening we had dinner at the waterfront, starting with apero spritzes and other colorful cocktails, shared five unusual dishes, and topped things off with desserts to die for (and espressos/cappuccinos of course).

Views

On the suggestion of our landlord we got on the mid-lake ferry and visited the small medieval town of Varenna, across the lake from Bellagio.  The boat provided a new and different perspective on Bellagio – a breathtaking view on the tip of the peninsula, with its stately ochre buildings and contrasting evergreens.

We had lunch on a lovely terrace, looking at Bellagio across the water, and feasted on local fare: cheese, wine, and once more a ‘insalata caprese.’ I think I can eat this everyday.

We took the ferry back in time for Jim, whose workday follows American hours and thus starts at 3 PM sharp. We dropped him off and wound our way up the mountain to check out whether the restaurant on the top would be a nice place to celebrate the completion of Sita’s work on Saturday.

The restaurant is part of a working farm, a family business. Alessandro received us in English that was a lot less halting than what we have heard so far.  He explained that weekends are busy as the Milan crowd drives up into the mountains, many coming straight to his restaurant. But we were in time and reserved the best table in the house, for 7:30 – in time to enjoy the spectacular vista of the lake before and after it splits in two, first in daylight and then at night.

The restaurant has a vending machine. At first I thought it was filled with dessert, brown veined white triangles that looked like cheesecake on top and ice cream cups at the bottom. As it turned out, the automat was filled with farm products: various vacuum packed cheeses in the top sections and yogurt in the small containers below.

We then descended down to the beach where parking and bathing is free – one of the fee ‘libero’ places, where you could enjoy yourself and not spend a eurocent. The beaches here are rather pebbly which makes it hard to walk on and even harder to lie down on.  We swam, read, and then fell asleep – I am getting the hang of vacationing. It was a lovely warm Indian summer kind of day. With the setting sun we were reminded that fall is in the air and headed home.

So far we have been eating one kind or another of pasta every night – this night it was leftovers supplemented with a few enormous fresh spinach ricotta raviolis, served with a valeriana (veldsla) salad with very fresh and runny mozzarella and tomatoes, all prepared in our tiny IKEA kitchen.

Sita had an event and didn’t come home until 9 PM but we finally managed to get her and Faro to fall asleep before midnight. She is still in recovery and it shows, though the people she works for may not even realize it.

Learning

Months ago I signed up for a course on coursera.org. Sita suggested I do so, and we both signed up for Model Thinking. I had forgotten about it until I received word that the course would start on the 3rd, my first vacation day.

Coursera is a social entrepreneurship company. Its founders are shooting for worldclass education for millions of students, of all ages who can access free courses given by top notch professors from top notch schools around the world using state of the art technology. All that the students need is a computer and internet access to download the lectures, readings and links.

Axel, Tessa and Jim had gone into town and I had offered to babysit. It seemed like a good opportunity to check out my first online class.

According to a thread in the discussion section of the online course, many other people had also signed up for the course; maybe thousands, ranging in age from 11 to 73, from all continents and countries that are worlds away from each other, both geographically and ideologically (Vietnam, Serbia, Peru, Iran, Egypt, Nigeria, Portugal, France and South Africa).

I planted Faro on my lap and we took the first session of the Model Thinking course together, widening the age range by another 10 years and 9 months.

We listened to five lectures: Why Models? Intelligent Citizens of the World. Thinking More Clearly. Using and Understanding Data.  Using Models to Decide, Strategize and Design.

I think Faro liked the lectures, especially when the prof (Scott Page from University of Michigan) drew on the white board with his red pen, and illustrated then this then that model using squares, circles and arrows. According to the prof, after this course, Faro and I will be able to partake more intelligently in conversations about anything. You can’t start early enough with important stuff like that.

Around lunch time Axel called to suggest I join them for lunch at a nice restaurant on the lake, just when Faro had gone to sleep, exhausted from our two hours of top notch lectures. 

I had forgotten how much work it is to pack up an infant, especially one that is asleep and can’t help. It took me several trips to the car to get him and all his gear safely packed up.

We had a lovely lunch at the lakeside, fresh mozzarella, grilled eggplant, tomatoes and a pinot grigio followed by a quarter inch of espresso. For post-prandial entertainment we strolled through the giardini del villa Melzi, a two hundred year old garden bordering the lake and planted with trees from all over the world that had grown into beautifully proportioned giants: a Montezuma pine, Californian Sequoias, a Lebanese cedar and thick camellia hedges. If you were born into nobility, life was pretty nice here. Now it is nice even if you aren’t.


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