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Privilege and predators

Many of my colleagues are at the big HIV/AIDS conference in Washington. Every morning I receive a lot of blog posts in my mail box. Everyone is blogging like crazy. In my mind I imagine the end of the day’s session and everyone running off with their laptops and Pads to blog about what they learned/heard today; only a few bewildered souls standing around wanting to just talk. Ha!

It is good that the conference reports are upbeat because we need upbeatness. I attended a brown bag lunch presentations yesterday. A colleague from Lesotho with whom I have worked earlier in the spring talked about the work we are doing there with orphans and vulnerable children. The work is good and important but also a drop on a hot plate. The numbers of HIV infections among young women is staggering and the number of children left vulnerable to abuse (both physical and socially as they are being cheated out of inheritances) is frightful. Especially if you consider that in about 30 years’ time these children will be governing the country. It brings images from futuristic doomsday movies to mind.

The contrast with my life is beyond description but I will try nevertheless:

I drive home in a car I own that is in good shape because I have money to maintain it. The roads are in fairly good shape and the government has ordered maintenance work on the Tobin Bridge. It creates two daily traffic jams, in and out of Boston, but I can count on the bridge not collapsing under me one day.  I arrive at my beautiful home, inherited from my in-laws, that is situated right next to the ocean and has a small beach that we have mostly to ourselves.

I have a loving husband of more than 30 years, two grown up kids who have work (and cars, and one of them a home) and found good mates. I have one healthy grand child who would not have survived the ordeal of birth if he had lived in the mountains of Lesotho, his mom might not have either.

We pour ourselves some drinks and wander down to the beach where we are the only people. We sit by the water’s edge and talk. We decide it is a good time for a pre-dinner swim and change in our bathing suits; we go back to the beach and discover the water is icy cold. We stand around for a while and then sit down again at the water’s edge and talk some more. Then it is time for dinner, a collaborative efforts (Axel picked the menu and did the shopping, picked the chard out of our garden and I assembled the feta-tomato-pita pizzas). We take our plates outside, pour ourselves a glass of cold white wine and eat while we look at the glistening cove and the flowers that surround us. We talk some more. A few chores later it is time for bed. All is well. I wanted to say ‘we are blessed,’ but that presumes that we deserve to be blessed. But what about all these orphans in Lesotho and their predators?

 

Bounty and business

Monday was recovery day, requiring my presence only at 2 phone meetings. The rest of the day I reconnected with Lobster Cove, its land and its water.

The garden had suffered from the up and down weather and a recent rainstorm had flattened the potato plants which are also infested with white flies. Axel feared that our harvest was going to be poor. I decided to investigate and dug up 3 plants. This produced such an abundance of potatoes, especially small ones that we decided to leave the rest alone and let them small ones mature.

I harvested most of the beets, gold and red, several large and moth-eaten leaves of the Portuguese kale and plucked about a pint of purple beans. Thus our dinner was red, golden, green and purple. Axel added a vase with pastel-colored snap dragons from the garden and our home grown feast was complete! We had this fabulous dinner outside after a quick cooling off in the cove. Things can’t get much better than that (except for the presence of our kids and grandkid).

I learned that while I was away Tessa started her own business. I can’t quite understand how we produced two business owners, but we did. Tessa’s company is called Align Graphic Design, LLC and Sita’s is dpict. I realized that I also have two family members who have ‘domained’ their own name (Tessa and Axel). Tessa’s site is under construction and the other is a little inactive (announcing my return on September 8, 2011).

Summer again

Although I should be used to this by now, it never ceases to amaze me how one moment Axel and I speak via Skype, thousands of miles apart and then poof, we are in the same place again. Of course the ‘poof’ includes 17 hours in planes (this time the baby was sitting in front of me). Still, thanks to the first (or second?) law of thermodynamics and the Bernoulli principle, we are re-united.

During my lay-over in Amsterdam I bought Axel his favorite Dutch drink: Corenwijn. It comes in a 900 gram stoneware bottle. I tried once to buy him Corenwijn that came in a plastic bottle but it was not what he wanted; and so I added about 1 kg to my already overweight hand luggage. I stayed away from the cheese shop (that would have added a few more kgs) and then filled every empty nook and cranny in my hand luggage with lightweight licorice.

Out of curiosity about all the fuss I watched the Hunger Games on my tiny TV screen. I am not an action movie fan but I can manage on a small screen because the blood and gore is less visible.  After having satisfied my curiosity I switched to Robin Williams with his Weapons of Self Destruction. My neighbor had been watching it and was in stitches for a good part of the trip; it was rather contagious and, as a bonus, it killed the time.

I arrived in Boston with plane loads full of young people who were being whisked off to camps and language schools – it is that time of the year. It is hard to imagine crossing the Atlantic to go to camp. But then again, I flew for 18 hours to facilitate a two-day meeting.

It is summer again. I put my warm sweater, scarf and coat back in the closet to wait for our fall and donned proper summer clothes. It was hot and humid in Lobster Cove. If it wasn’t for the off-shore breeze I would have gone for a swim.

Lite, sweet, solemn and tired

The two day workshop ended on a high note after an intense morning of work planning with a team building lite – a guessing game that got people in stitches. After that we became a little more serious with everyone acknowledging one other member of the team, followed by the solemn signing of the Birchwood Declaration.

This is the second Declaration I have midwifed; the first was the Kabul Declaration that was signed by Ministers of Health from 7 countries in the Middle East and Central Asia. At that time Sita helped with the graphics. This declaration was not quite of the same significance but still an important commitment to a set of principles to guide the project over the next 4 years and possibly beyond. Ian from headquarters who had a great facility with words, with photo shop and the staff of the business center, helped put the finishing touches on the jumble of words that emerged from a session on day one. He wrote the prose that left people speechless, then took our picture and put one and one together, photo shopping the picture taker in as well.

Sue and I stayed on in the empty conference room to make sure we got all the data generated during the second day into a computer. It was good Sue helped me out as she knows the context and can distinguish between proposed activities that made sense and those that didn’t. It was tedious work as we moved around the room from flipchart to flipchart, crumpling each after we were done. In the meantime it got dark and cold and when Sue left for the airport I took the remaining flipcharts to my room to complete.

But I collapsed from exhaustion; it had been two very long and intense days. As an extravert my energy tends to leave with the last person leaving. It departed with Sue. Back in the room I dropped everything on the ground and fell into bed; a fitful but not very restful sleep.

I spent the day finishing the data entry, trying to make sense of things I know nothing about such as pharmacovigilance, essential drug lists, formularies and tendering. I completed my trip report and sent it in for review, had a massage and pedicure in the Lotus Spa, talked with Axel on Skype and packed up. It’s time to go home.

Big and fanciful

I learned yesterday that our conference complex can host 51 conferences at the same time, from small board meetings with 12 people to large events for as many as 3000 people in one room. Whoever came up with the concept for this place is a smart business man (or woman) and probably exceedingly rich by now.

The operations are smooth. The management clearly has invested much in staff development and empowerment. The staff is very friendly and responsive. Several people are assigned to support our workshop. In the morning a young man or woman shows up looking for the facilitator and then goes over the day with me – to make sure they are ready for our breaks. Then Mr. Lucky, presumably their supervisor, shows up to make sure I am happy and, I suppose, to make sure the underlings are doing their tasks correctly.  One of the underlings is a young girl who has ‘learner’ printed on her name tag. I asked her what she was learning: to serve you. She is.

Next to our room the senior management of a research company is holding a meeting. A slide show called ‘Way Forward’ was left on the screen during the lunch break. The concluding slide read: Change our organizational culture and then a bullet point below it explaining how they were planning to do that: Create a culture of obedience and the following of rules. I wish them luck.

This morning, on the way to the gigantic breakfast hall (only seen before in China) I walked by several conference rooms that had their occupants for the day announced on their doors: the Promotion Boxing team, the Management Lubrication Systems team. In the breakfast hall I found the ‘Do Not Harm’ team from the state-owned electricity and utility company. They were wearing jackets and baseball caps (the men) and coveralls (the women). The women wore the team’s objectives on the back of their coveralls, printed in large letters. That is how I learned what ‘do no harm’ meant: reduce injuries on the job; prevent fatalities, and a few other things that related to Safety First – old wine in new bottles. The men did not advertise their objectives.

Last night we went out for a celebratory dinner in a restaurant called Tribe, a carnivore kind of place. It is located in a gigantic entertainment complex (not far from our giant conference complex) that appears to be inspired by Las Vegas. You enter into a place that is permanently bathed in daylight – a condition created by a faux blue-with-some-clouds-sky painted on the ceiling. It’s a weird sensation when you come in from a dark outside as it looks but does not feel like it’s daytime again.

Insight are streets and avenues that pass by shops and restaurants, named and designed to make you feel as if you are in Brazil, Italy, France or deepest darkest Africa. A larger than life sized faux Michelangelo’s David was placed centrally in a faux Italian fountain. It was a slightly adapted version as David was wearing a large shawl covering most (but not all) of his private parts. I wondered whether this was his winter outfit or the response to a ‘no-nudity’ policy.

Giving back

I have been in South Africa for a little over 48 hours and the end of my time here is already coming into view. I spent two days in the MSH Pretoria office where I got to greet friends and colleagues and start putting the final touches on the strategic planning workshop design. It helps when you are familiar with the main players and the context and when there are kindred souls around to help with the task.

Two headquarter colleagues joined from the Washington office and we are ready to roll with the workshop just 9 hours (a good night sleep) away. Today was rather festive in the office because it was Mandela Day. I have never sung happy birthday to Nelson Mandela and so today was a first as I joined the entire office staff in the birthday song.

Nelson Mandela is a little bit like Saint Nicholas – his birthday is a day of altruism and giving to others. For the 67 years of his struggle for the liberation of South Africa from the yoke of Apartheid, his fellow citizens are asked to devote 67 minutes to giving back to the community.

Our office staff fanned out over the greater Pretoria area, to clinics and orphanages, carrying boxes of clothes, blankets, toys, food.  I had wanted to come along but it was my last day of preparations and I needed every minute I had and some critical consultations with people staying put. People came back inspired. Their experience put their complaints and discomfort in perspective – they were reminded of how easy their lives were compared to the orphans and street kids they visited.

At the end of the day the MSH country representative presented the results of a series of consultations and several meetings with key staff, in Accra and last month in Addis. The resulting Strategic Road Map is to be our blue print for the next 5 years. It was interesting, as a headquarter person, to watch the roll out in a field office – several of the staff had participated in this or that event leading up to the final road map.

Afterwards (these presentations were apparently happening around the world) staff were encouraged to celebrate the achievements of the long strategic planning process and toast to our collective good health, good fortune and good works. And so I had my first glass of South African wine on this trip and toasted along with everyone else.

The team whose deliberations I am facilitating is coming tomorrow to the conference center that is near the Jo’burg airport. I decided to go ahead, check out the room, and prepare the materials and have a good night sleep. As we drove up to the gigantic conference complex it felt more like arriving at a prison: white washed walls as far as the eye could see, and when turning a corner more of that, with razor wire on top. I was told the place can accommodate more than 10 large conferences and I presume thousands of guests. The enormous parking lots and Disney-esque entry lanes (five, side by side) to the property seem to confirm that we are here with a cast of thousands.

Noir et blanc

I finished my writing assignment at 5 minutes after 5PM. It was a long haul on a very hot and muggy day. It is the first draft only. I will have another week to write improve on it when I come back from South Africa. That trip starts the day after tomorrow. I have to shift my focus to that assignment and will do so during the very long trip from Boston to Atlanta to Johannesburg.

But first I am going to focus on tomorrow. Tomorrow is July 14 – it will be five years since we fell out of the sky, a black day that was otherwise a New England 10+ day. It was also a Saturday. We now know what will and what will not get better. For me this knowledge (that some things – ankle/arm – won’t get better) is fairly recent– for Axel it is old news (brain/arm). Although we will have to get used to living with some degree of handicap, living at all remains rather miraculous.

We declined to go to the ’14 juillet’ party that we were supposed to attend five years ago. We could just imagine the conversation and didn’t want any part of that. Instead we are going to a ‘diner blanc’ with tons of other people in Gloucester; my first time, Axel’s second. I watched this picture of this event last year, all homesick and wishing I could have been there. Now I will be.

We will join 7 other friends for this fest that was invented some 25 years ago in Paris. It is a sort of pop-up dinner party where everyone is dressed in white and brings in everything that they need for dinner (tables, chairs, plates, silverware, tablecloth, decorations, candles and of course food) and when all is consumed they pack everything up leaving nothing behind.

After change

For the first time in a month we are alone and there are no significant events on the horizon, other than watching Faro grow and one short trip for me. We have the house all to ourselves.

The debris from the party have been cleared away, the bottles and cans recycled and Axel is trying to revive the grass dance floor with an overdose of water. Tessa cleaned the floors before hopping on a plane to Florida for a week with her in-laws.

I am returning to my morning routines, abandoned when Faro announced himself five weeks ago.  This includes meditation, lots of water and a diet that did me much good – better than the take out, the pizza, sausages, ice cream and birthday cake from the last few weeks.

I am also returning to a strict discipline of writing one session a day for an e-learning course on change – the first draft should be done by the end of the week.  It’s a little easier to do this at home than at work because in the office there are so many distractions, other stuff to do.

As part of the writing process I am doing a lot of reflection on my own recent change experiences and am finally able to take some distance, look at myself as an observer. As I write about the stages of change, of grieving and loss I recognize every step of the way. Observed experience makes it easier to write about change.

This morning I organized a demonstration for my colleagues in Arlington and Cambridge of a group facilitation tool that I was introduced to only 10 days ago. It helps people who may or may not be in the same place find meaning in the chaotic events and complexity of our times by thinking better together. I added some complexity on my own by trying to getting colleagues who reside in several Southern African countries in on the demo.  I was only partially successful and learned a lesson or two about working with technology from a distance.

Silent crowd

Last year I looked wistfully at pictures of Tessa’s birthday beach party, an annual event, on facebook, while sitting at my little China-made desk in my bedroom of house 33 in Karte seh in Kabul, Afghanistan.

I saw pictures that needed an explanation: people in weird poses on our kitchen floor, everyone with a headset on. Axel explained: this was silent disco; they were dancing to wicked good music. A friend of Tessa and Steve is a sought-after disc jockey on the Boston club scene. He graciously offered to come and DJ at her party last year, bringing lots of headsets so the neighborhood wouldn’t know that a disco party was going on. He did so again this year and I got to be in it rather than looking in from the outside.

Whoever came up with the silent disco idea is a genius. If you take your headset off there is no music. And so you can dance on loud music if you want, alone or with others, and if you want to have a conversation you simply take the headset off. I thought of our conversations yesterday about insights and innovation: someone made an “either/or” into an “and/and.” You can have your cake (loud music) and eat it too (have a conversation), AND all this without pissing off the neighbors.

Axel had been dreading the party a bit – in litigious America having 30 to 40 young people on your property, mix in much beer and stronger stuff that slips in unnoticed, along with random people you don’t know is a risky thing. Besides, his recliner is in the living room. Tessa responded very wisely to these concerns by telling her friends to bring a tent or sleeping bag and stay the night and not allowing strangers to tag along with friends, unless explicit permission was provided by her (in case of new partners).

By looking out of the window I can see, judging from the number of cars still on our property, that many heeded the suggestion of staying for the night. Those who left will miss out on one of the best experiences Lobster Cove can offer: waking up on a sunny Sunday morning and then have Tessa and Steve cook a hearty breakfast and eat it on the beach.

Tessa also had some strong young men take the recliner up to our bedroom. And so we are for the first time in nearly a month sleeping in the same room again. This vacated the living room and made it, with all the other rooms downstairs available for overnighters without a tent: there are couches and Afghan carpets, and, after a brief inspection this morning, there are people using them.

We did not last very long into the night – we are after all more than double the age of most – but we had a great time hanging out around the fire and then dancing with our head phones on. Our daughters have wonderful friends. They are in a stage of life where engagements, weddings and jobs are the subject of most conversations. There were serious talks about getting, having and leaving jobs, or mates for that matter; and wistful conversations about travelling (they had done, or wished they had done).

But they also wanted to know about us, with lots of questions about Axel’s arm in the sling, why the rotator cuff operation, why Afghanistan, the plane crash. Some were actually following my blog and knew a lot about our lives. At times Axel started to talk about something we did, and was greeted with the words, “oh, we know all about that already!” But some things don’t go in the blog and so there remains much to talk about.

It is Sunday morning now and, after a brief inspection of the after-party debris, I went back upstairs to reminisce about my 27th summer which took place in Beirut, 33 years ago. I realized that some things don’t change. I too was in the middle of a transition then, of both jobs and mates and about to start on the trip of a life time, with Axel, to Afghanistan.

Aqualife and death

On Saturday morning, at dead low tide, Axel and I walked across the near empty cove to inspect whether the mussels that Roger and Axel had transplanted from Ipswich some two weeks ago, had settled into their new home. We found them happily sticking to rocks and each other. The experiment seems to have been successful and we are proud of our mussel heroes: they are tasked with repopulating the cove with their species. We are ready for phase II – another transplant.

The clear water allowed us to inspect the aquatic life in the cove. We saw new kinds of seaweeds, one that fills like a bladder when under water, with a bubble of air providing a bright contrast at the top of the green slimy thing. It’s everywhere now where three years ago there were none.

A kind of snail shell, maybe another variety of the hermit crab, is also more abundant than before and then there is the invading red algae that are choking some of the other seaweeds in the cove.

We were happy to see two small lobsters poking out from under a rock, menacingly raising their tiny claws up to us in a defensive attack stance. One medium sized crab walked across the bottom with a small squid under its arm – the large eye of the squid looking like a jewel on a white gown.  Unfortunately the crab met another crab without a squid and a deadly attack (for the squid) ensued. I could hear them screaming ‘It’s mine, I found it,” and “I want it and I am bigger than you so I will take it away.”

Hordes of little hermit crabs converged around the fighters. They knew that in the end they would be the winners, catching the shreds from the poor squib that was torn into pieces as each crab was trying to gobble up as much of the squid. Soon there would be nothing left to fight over.  We left the crabs to themselves and headed back to shore for a breakfast of freshly picked Swiss chard mixed in with freshly laid eggs from a nearby chicken farm. Life is good and about to get even better.


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