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Spaceous

Our short trip to Nagasaki is already behind us. The class I taught at Nagasaki University – the reason for this side trip – was attended by 2 Japanese PhD students (international public health), 3 tropical medicine docs from, respectively, Afghanistan, Benin and Mali, one 2nd year MPH student and 7 first year students, the latter all Japanese.

We spent a lively three hours together, so lively that a few students commented at the end that it felt as if they had only been in class for 3 minutes rather than 3 hours. I took it as a compliment. The material I was covering was new for all of them: how to make leadership actionable, what is a mission, a first attempt at a personal vision and why all of this is important. The material is all-purpose as it can be applied to self, to family, to work team and to one’s organization. Although not quite 3 minutes, the session went quickly and when I was done it was dark and cold outside.

Axel met me at the tram stop near our hotel. He had already made a reservation in the same tiny French-Japanese restaurant (chez garcon Ken) where we had dinner earlier this year, across what used to be the waterfront of an 18th century Dutch settlement, Decima (0r Dejima as the Japanese call it). The reservation had not been necessary as there was only one other table occupied but we liked the little reservation card nevertheless. It said ‘reserve pour M et Mme Boston.’

The owner, cook, waiter and dishwasher, presumably garcon Ken himself, prepared us some French dishes in Japanese style: a shrimp mousse, a salmon terrine with a spicy mayonnaise and a pork terrine with grainy mustard, followed by a yellow snapper and shrimp in a rich sauce. Pannacotta with fruit completed the meal, as well as a carefully selected wine to go with the meal. In between his cooking Ken came over from time to time to make a toast and to disappear again into the tiny kitchen.

Thursday was a travel day again but we managed to squeeze in another visit to the atomic bomb site – the epicenter and the hall of remembrance – a brief respite of contemplation – before meeting Miho and a colleague for a sushi and sashimi farewell lunch.

Back in Tokyo we joined a bunch of jolly commuters, hard drinkers and smokers, for another round of sushi and some noodles before heading to our next hotel. The Tokyo prince hotel looks like a Russian hotel from a bygone era – a giant unimaginative block of real estate set back from the road, with a shopping arcade in the basement and hundreds of rooms lining endless corridors. The décor in the room is early 60s, tired yellow velours, cream-colored draperies and furniture,guilded faucets, cut-plastic chandeliers and turquoise wall to wall carpet.

Because of a clerical error that had put us in a smoking room – causing an immediate respiratory attack in Axel – the hotel upgraded us to a smoke free suite. All the hotel rooms we have ever stayed in in Japan could easily fit in this suite. We have an enormous living room, another enormous bedroom and even a separate dressing room. I don’t have to leave the room when Axel does his exercises.

And so we have arrived at part 3 of our Japan stay – I work and Axel plays. But since my work is playful and joyful, my next three days won’t feel much like work. It has also stopped raining in Tokyo.

Next stop

Our second day in Tokyo was dreary, rainy, windy and cold. Nothing appears to be open before 10 AM  and, and since we had to get on our way to Tokyo’s other airport, Haneda, around 11 AM, we ended up spending our last vacation morning in the hotel lobby and coffee shop.

The trip to Haneda airport required one metro transfer, a short trip on a train and a longer one on the airport monorail that passed through southern Tokyo. It reminded us of Rotterdam, a giant port which has none of the refined delicacy of the Japan we are so in love with.

Nagasaki, though cool, was bathed in sunlight when we descended, a nice contrast with Tokyo. Nagasaki is draped over green hills with water everywhere. We were fantasizing about taking a road trip from south to north, one day.

Miho waited for us and guided us to the bus for the long trip into town.  We dropped off our bags at our hotel, a fancy modern looking boutique hotel wedged in between girl bars and eating places in a part of town that is dead during the day but quite lively even on school nights.

We had a beer in a café that was a novelty in 1925, a time when Nagasaki wasn’t the cosmopolitan place it is now. At the time it had, unheard of, a décor of foreign movie posters, a gramophone playing western music and home-made ice cream. Today the décor is a little tired, yellowed and dusty. Gone are the movie posters and the gramophone. It is still there but relegated to be a decorative item. The western (Christmas) music comes, now doubt from something Sony.  The place serves frikadelles, a Dutch fast food variation on the hamburger. In Nagasaki the Dutch influence here is nowhere far.

For dinner we selected shabu-shabu with the famous marbled beef, this time not from Kobe but from Nagasaki. We thought we were in fish country but apparently the beef here is prized as well. The dinner arrangement consisted of low tables but without the hole underneath so Axel and I were reminded about the Afghan meals we took sitting down, hardly able to walk afterwards.

Meals are often taken in separate rooms for privacy, created by paper sliding doors. Halfway through our meal a mother with her two school-uniformed teenagers joined our little alcove. There was much giggling after we offered ourselves up for English practice but the girls were too shy and the mother didn’t speak any English, asking Miho a thousand questions about us. When we left they had some English parting words (‘nice to meet you’) for us, accompanied by more smiles and giggles.

Birthday eats

We managed the long flight to Tokyo by watching endless movies when the sleep wouldn’t come. The 12 hours ticked down slowly to landing time at the end of Tokyo’s Sunday – we left on Saturday morning and had skipped 14 hours. When we opened our hotel room door it was exactly 24 hours after the alarm clock had woken us up in Manchester by the sea.

It took 2 hours to get from the airport to our hotel by public transport. I think I am done cheaping in out; being sleep deprived and with an ankle that doesn’t operate very well, the last metro transit was murder.

We checked in, dropped our bags and found a fast (Japanese) food place nearby that served me a small strip of grilled salmon and a bowl of vegetable broth, and Axel a bowl of rice with caramelized onions, beef strips and shiitake mushrooms.

The hotel we selected from the internet is nice for being reasonably priced. Tokyo is an expensive city. You can select the number of square centimers you want from the website. We chose an option with medium number of square centimeters which still makes for a tiny room where Axel cannot do his exercises on the ground while I am around. So I am sitting in the lobby now which is also the only place with internet access.

In the morning we spent a few hours in the ‘precious’ coffee shop which also doubles as the hotel’s breakfast restaurant, waiting for a FASID colleague to come and get stuff we don’t want to carry to Nagasaki and back.

We then walked to the Suntori museum in the Midtown mall which is all decked out for Christmas and could compete with the fanciest shopping mall in the US (and win). A Finnish glass exhibit showed the subtle and not so subtle links between Finnish and Japanese design – extraordinary.

We walked on to visit another museum but my ankle gave up and we had ourselves driven to an exquisite tofu restaurant at the foot of the Tokyo Tower, a bright orange Eiffel-Tower-wannabee monstrosity that spoils the view  (if you look up) from the tofu restaurant’s beautiful traditional gardens.

It is good that the yen is still monopoly money to me otherwise I would have gasped at the price of our lunch. It was an 8-course affair; a dainty tofu lunch served in or on a variety of beautiful small dishes made from wood and ceramics. Each new course was served by a smiling waitress in traditional costume, shuffling quietly on white stocking-ed feet over soft tatami mats, to and fro, to and fro. We could have been somewhere in the country side, 100s of years ago. The only modernity, aside from us, was the credit card machine (thank God) and the digital camera used to take my birthday picture. It was tastefully delivered (separate from the bill) in an envelope decorated with an origami crane and accompanied by a bright yellow gerbera in its own portable vase.

By then we were exhausted. Although late afternoon here it was for us also still the middle of the night. We returned to the hotel for a nap, hoping to do another art museum in the afternoon but we woke up too late for that. So we selected a sushi restaurant out of the 100s of restaurants available to us (these are the visible ones, not counting the ones on 2nd or higher floors or hidden behind curtains and below ground doors). Our tactic for selecting a restaurant is to find a place with lots of salary men (and an occasional salary woman), who are having their post work drinks and dinner before heading out to the suburbs, to wife and kids.

Tomorrow we are off to Nagasaki, leaving us a short morning in Tokyo and another travel adventure.

A family that travels…

Tessa called us from Death Valley in California. It is a matter of seeing is believing, the real thing so much better than its name. They did get a flat tire which is why she had time to call us from the tire-fixing place. Otherwise they are rather busy trying to press everything they want to do on this road trip into the remaining weeks – it is down to weeks now.

Sita skyped in a little later from her New York City hotel room, with Faro on her lap. She is experiencing the travails of being a working mother while Jim handles the day-during-daytime routine. And so when she comes home from a long day scribing of deliberations about cold chains and supply chains, he hands the baby over to her, ‘here, now it is your turn.

Faro can now crawl across a bed, a room, any surface really. And with that a new phase has arrived, the phase of The Mobile Baby. He is also recognizing us on skype and trying to touch us, drooling on Sita’s precious keyboard. A handful indeed.

We just learned from facebook that Sita is sequestered, after hours, in the UNICEF building where the conference is taking place. A suspicious package led brought in NYPD, sirens, and shut down the HVAC and elevators. They are told to keep working. Jim will have to wait with his ‘here, he’s yours,’ it seems.

We are packed for Japan and I am ready to get on a plane and stop worrying about things not done. Today was one of those days – cleaning my desk and things kept falling down on it. I am glad I am travelling with my best friend.

Learning

Just as I am over my fever, and on the mend, Axel is starting to pick up whatever strain of bugs I introduced in the house. He has to collapse whatever he has into three days, no more.

In the meantime I am trying to collapse lots of small and big assignments into the remaining three days as I would like to leave on Saturday being able to focus on what lies ahead in Japan and nothing else.

This is a challenge because most of the hours I am at the office are booked for one or another meeting. And so my early arrival at the office (6:15 AM) is helpful, leaving me a few hours to be at my most productive and most creative. There is a benefit to getting up in the middle of the night.

Much of my time now is devoted to learning or promoting learning. It is an enjoyable task because I get to explore areas that had either faded into faraway parts of my brain or are entirely new. Today we listened to two knowledge management experts of a local (for profit) management consulting firm. With knowledge its primary product, the company spends considerable resources on knowledge management and learning. We invited them to see what such a Cadillac model looks like and spark some ideas about things we could do, given our limited resources.  A few of us left with our minds spinning and much in awe. We have a ways to go but were warned not to bite off more than we can chew.  Good advice.

A long pause

We had Faro and his parents over for much of the Thanksgiving holiday and although I was feeling crummy, it was wonderful to have them around and watch Faro trying to crawl, play guitar and learn Dutch children’s songs.

We also talked with Tessa who has nearly reached the halfway point of their road trip. They are starting to think about the return trip, taking the southern route, which makes a lot of sense.

After another horrendous coughing fit that woke both of us u last night, and completing my second week of feeling poorly, it was time to pay a visit to our new doctor.  He congratulated me on seeking help (of course) and then told me I had ‘walking pneumonia’.  This simply means you don’t have to get hospitalized and can keep walking, a mild form of pneumonia or bronchitis, he couldn’t quite tell.

I received an antibiotic injection and prescriptions for two kinds of antibiotics, one for now and the other as a backup to use when I get on my way to Japan and still feel crummy. I would like to enter the plane on Saturday morning as a healthy person. I also would like to come out healthy on the other end because at Narita they have giant heat sensors to pick out people with (any kind of) the flu. And who knows what happens then.

I also went to see the foot doctor for another cortisone injection because I would like to be able to walk in Japan. Lately, a walk around the block ended in a hard to disguise limp. The last shot was 6 month ago. So tomorrow I should be well again.

I notice my entries are getting further and further apart. I believe it is because of sinking from a cold into something more serious over the last 2 weeks, when I returned from Bangladesh.  Still, in the meantime we went south to DC and west for thanksgiving and north for post-Thanksgiving.

In Franconia (NH) we experienced our first snow of the season. It is really winter there. Canon mountain had all the snowmakers going on full blast when we arrived and was fairly white when we left (snowmakers still going but now complementing the natural layer that had fallen overnight).

The softly descending snowflakes on Sunday morning put me in a poetic mood, with a poem surfacing without any effort from my side. It was my first poem in ages.  Snow slows things down, even when just watching it from a warm inside. It also creates a mood of ‘now.’  Both seem to be important for bringing forth the muse.

We drove our second cousin once or twice removed (?) to Cambridge. She was part of the mini family reunion we had up there at her New York uncles’ and California aunt’s old vacation home in Franconia.

We took advantage of being in Cambridge and went to see Lincoln and then have a lovely after theatre culinary experience at a Kendall Square wine bar called belly. Although we are vegetarian wannabees we cannot help ourselves to order steak tartare at those rare occasions when it is on the menu – it was well worth the trangression, and nicely bracketed by an arugula salad and a beet/bean salad.

DC tourists

With the work done and the weekend ahead, we started our whirlwind tour of a few DC friends we hadn’t seen in a while.  We started on Q street with long time friends over a beef stew, a good glass of wine and catching up on at least five years of stories.

Saturday was reserved for culture. We visited the Saudi exhibit at the Sackler  a much more multicultural view on Saudi Arabia than we are used to.

Next stop was the Roosevelt Memorial park along the river. I didn’t even know it existed and we agreed with our hosts that it was inspiring and breathtakingly beautiful (apparently in any season).

I had insisted on seeing a rather unusual exhibit of objects that couldn’t been with the naked eye. My companions were humoring me and pleasantly surprised. The objects are created from microscopic materials and then painted using paint molecules and the split legs of dead flies. It was only through a powerful microscope that one could see the tailor of Gloucester, a parrot on an eyelash, a bird’s nest, a gilded motorcycle, a dinosaur, Beatrice Potter and more.  He even recreated the building of Lloyd’s of London on a pin’s head.

We then switched friends in another part of town – dinner and drinks and off to bed. Sunday morning was reserved for a visit to the zoo around the corner from their house. It was the first time in decades that I was there. Much had changed since our last visit. It is quite astonishing how much animals and large living spaces could be shoehorned into such a small piece of land. It was a pleasurable walk on a beautiful fall day, except for my crappy ankle which reminded me I need to get another cortisone shot.

Packed with ice around my ankle our friends delivered us to the last stop in Bethesda which included a Louisiana brunch with crayfish, crab cakes, beignets and a sauce called entouffee, washed down with chicoree coffee – a brunch that would see us through the rest of our day.

We took the metro to our last destination, National Airport, for our flight back to Boston where it was a few degrees colder and a little closer to winter. We agreed that DC was indeed a great place to visit, not just because of our friends but also the sheer number of interesting places and events that are going on all over town, free or otherwise.

Failure

Despite the stuffy nose and having been in an all day meeting, there was an extension of the day at the WorldBank where I attended a Fail Faire.

Colleagues had told me about this Fail Faire and I had been skeptical, wondering why anyone would be willing to get up on a stage and talk about his or her failure. I do accept the premise that we learn from failure but somehow I couldn’t get my head around the concept of this being done on a stage and in a public place.

The WorldBank hosted the event which was well attended by a large crowd of predominantly young (inferred from the high energy at 6 PM on a Friday) development workers with an ICT interest, as this was the focus of the failures. There was much twittering around me about the lessons that emerged out of the failures – a very connected crowd.

We listened to the failure stories which were presented in comedy club style – there was much laughing and many clever slides with even more clever pictures and very little text. At the end, using applause level as the measure, we elected the church lady and the computer class in Angola as the winner – not necessarily the most insightful failure but certainly the funniest story and best presentation.

I had expected something completely different and now can understand the appeal. Who would not want to be entertained on a Friday evening, with free drinks and snacks, in the company of best friends and colleagues listen to people who fell on their faces? I’d go again but I don’t think I would ever present as these were hard acts to follow.

Neti cold

I thought that with the daily use of the neti pot I had finally conquered colds, forever. I had not had a cold since last March when I went on a serious detoxifying Ayurveda diet with all its side practices of neti pot, tong scraping, meditation, brushing and what not. The only thing I never stopped using was the neti pot and I discovered I remained cold free. QED!

Not anymore. A mega cold has hit me but I remained in denial till Wednesday night, going off to work in the middle of the night and to bed in the early evening, waking up miserably every two hours.

Now I am in Arlington with my stuffy nose. It may not interfere with the plans for today: I am going to indulge with five other colleagues in figuring out how we can become a learning organization. It is the slack time to do this which some twenty years ago we joked about. Imagine that, paid slack time. And now, here it is. Three cheers for never giving up.

Our home work was to study organizations that have tried to do what we are trying to do. We are in odd company: LL. Beans, the US army and lots of hospitals. Harvard professors have written about the learning organization and then there is of course the society for organizational learning and its founder Peter Senge who popularized the concept in the early 90s. I think that is just about the time we talked about slack time.

Axel has joined me – we have decided that whenever possible, he should come along, a break from being the stay at home partner is just as important as a break from being the travelling partner. We are also travelling together to Japan in a few weeks.

Re-adjusting

Miles and days have passed since I last wrote. The trip tripped me up, health wise, as I am struggling to keep, what feels like the flu, at bay. I haven’t been sick in 9 months and thought that I could stay ahead of colds and the like with my neti pot and mostly vegetarian eating. Not quite.

The trip back felt interminably long. The last straw was a Boston jet way that couldn’t connect to the plane in the right way, keeping us standing cheek to jowl in the aisles, everyone wanting to get out so badly. Once we were out a security door was locked leaving ground personnel flummoxed and us travelers stranded between the plane and the immigration area in the bowels of Logan airport.  After 20 hours of travel such things become major irritants.

Finally, at 2:30 PM I was home at beautiful Lobster Cove on a beautiful fall day, although I don’t recall much about it. At 5:10 PM I was sound asleep.

Monday was a holiday, and another 10+ fall day. I spent much time outside, cleaning out one of the garden beds to plant the garlic and getting the daylight to help reset my bio clock back to Manchester time. It is not quite there yet. I keep getting up at 3 AM, wide awake. This makes for an early arrival at work (before 6 AM), lunch at 10 AM and I am ready to go home at 2 PM., and back to bed at 8 PM.


March 2026
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