Archive Page 17

Full dance card

I thought I had a very quiet last quarter of 2019 ahead of me which would prove, income-wise, that I had effectively retired for three-quarters. But things popped up, some unexpectedly and one other a possible outcome of my first (unsolicited) proposal. Aside from planned short trips to Chapel Hill and Niger, South Africa, and possibly India is on the menu. Axel is going to accompany me on my second trip to South Africa next month so that we can vacation in a place where summer is just about to start.  

Now I am in Niamey, exactly 2 years after I arrived here in the middle of the night from Bamako. It is the 2nd of 3 planned trips of a 3 year project that ends sometime in 2020. I am hosted by ICRC. On arrival I was given an envelope with a phone and lots of papers to read and some to sign (to show I had read them and received the phone). ICRC operates in all the dangerous places in the world and knows a thing or two about the safety of its employees and consultants. This is the reason why I ignored all the high alert messages from the travel agent regarding my trip to Niamey. 

I am staying in the same hotel, as I did last time. It is  much younger than I am but feels old, tired and neglected. The room is surface-cleaned but the dark red carpet has a few more stains and the entire room feels grungy. I have had this sinking feeling of entering into a grungy or depressing hotel room many times in my career, never mind the many self-congratulatory stars on the hotel’s awning.  But then, after a few hours, I am OK with the room, spread my stuff out, tried out anything that should work, including the hot water, the TV, the lamps and the internet, and made the room my own for the duration of my stay. I even abandon my slippers after a while and walk barefoot on the old and spotty carpet. It’s a bit different from my lodging two weeks ago in Pretoria.

I asked for a room with a view of the Niger River and the giant swimming pool. There was a little humming and hawing but I got my room. I went for a swim in the somewhat cloudy water and then escaped to my airco-ed room. It is too hot to be outside, even at 6PM. I watched, from the coolness of my room, two ladies swimming with a man, a relative I presumed, trying to instruct them. They each had a large orange life preserver that looked like it belonged on a boat. The women stayed in the water for hours, giggling and floating and occasionally trying some swim strokes. When it was time to go they changed in the ladies’ room and emerged in full Islamic costume, none of the parts of their bodies that had been so freely exposed during their swim, showing now (other than hands, ankles and face).

I sat on the terrace where one table had been set for me, no one else seemed to think it a good idea to eat outside (it’s hot and there are bugs and the menu is rather limited). But I find the cooler indoor restaurant depressing and did not want a pricey buffet. I don’t like buffets with their good looking salads made from yesterday’s leftovers, their desserts that look better than they taste and the heavy dishes.  Since I eat very little I consider the hefty price I pay a subsidy for the other eaters. I had essentially been sitting all night, then all day and again all day, doing brain rather than physical work – I didn’t need much food. 

The outdoor restaurant has a menu that looks like it hasn’t been reprinted or re-issued in a decade. There is a variety of pizzas, some salads, fresh (?) juices and two kinds of brochettes, meat and fish. The brochettes are ordered by the stick, small sticks or large sticks. I ordered 3 small ones which the waiter finds odd as they are ‘mouth-teasers’ as the French call them, not actually considered dinner.  I am served 9 tiny pieces of roasted meat served on three small bamboo sticks with mustard, hot sauce and a powdered spice mixture. I wanted fries but decided to eat light and save the fries for day two. I ordered the ‘small vegetables’ plate as a side, which invariably means a heap of tiny canned peas and carrots. 

I washed my simple meal away with a can of Flag beer that came from Togo. Despite being listed on the well-fingered menu there is no more bottled beer here as all the local breweries have closed. So no more ‘conjoncture’ either, the  local brew that stayed low in price even if all the other prices went up. I can’t remember the precise reason for this unusual and informal name of the beer.  

On my second night I ordered the same 3 ‘mouth-teasing’ brochettes but now accompanied by fries – an enormous heap of fries served with hot sauce, ketchup and mayonnaise. They were salty, limp and greasy but I ate them all because, against my better judgment, I do like salt and fat.

The bill was 2 dollars more even though I had essentially the same meal as yesterday, at least according to the menu prices. The waiter from yesterday (who stood right by me) had forgotten that the cans from Togo are two dollars more because the local bottled beer on the menu is not available anymore. Maybe a good reason to finally change the menu and take all this local stuff off. Or is it nostalgia, those good old days? Could be, I am sure they were better before the end of Libya, ISIS, the guns and the smugglers found a niche in the Sahel (and the construction companies that are fortifying the best real estate in the city).

Anticipating 40

Labor day signifies the end of summer. We already knew it from the shift in the air, crisp at night, no more need for fans or AC, and the days agreeable warm. We still occasionally swim in the cove, when we are not too busy with the management of stuff. This is why getting rid of stuff is so liberating – less management, more time to swim.

Whenever we can we take meals, breakfast, lunch, cocktails, sitting just above the beach. We have created a little eating corner with the bottom of an old bench and two chairs left behind after a party earlier this year, when the summer was just starting (sigh). I both love and hate this time of the year: love because it is Lobster Cove at its best, hate because winter is coming. 

I have put the finishing touches on a weekend in April on the island of Schiermonikoog, way over at the most northern-eastern point of Holland, close to Germany, surrounded by the Waddenzee, loosely translated as the ‘Flats sea,’ a part of the North Sea that empties with the tides. It will be a family fest, a ‘Vriesstock or Vriesenpalooza’ as my nephew calls it. Axel and I will celebrate our 40thanniversary surrounded by our dear and noisy Vriesendorp siblings, those of their children and grandchildren who are around next April. We will show up with the 8 of us and it will be Faro’s and Saffi’s first trip to Holland.

Among the many things we are carting to Sita this weekend are Dutch books, so that the language barrier will not get in the way of the kids playing together and our son-in-law Jim can say and understand more that the word ‘paprika snippers,’ which he learned on his very first trip decades ago.

Our car could be mistaken for one that takes stuff to their kid’s dorm. But a look inside shows that it is filled to the gills with things that have accumulated after the student experience (mine and Sita’s): desk belonging to her great grandfather on which I studied for my final high school exams in the spring of 1969, books, photos and CDs from Sita’s school and early employment years, blankets from West Africa, an old map of China from the Cabots who left their stuff in the house we live in, to decorate Faro’s room – he will be the only one who can read it.And after that Tessa gets to pick up her stuff and we should finally be relatively free, free enough to empty one side of our office to install a heat pump and we can be warm this winter, and cool next summer. Free at last!

New roof, old memories

We have a new roof. Roofers bring large dumpsters. After all the roofing detritus was dumped there was plenty of room for more. Our roof expert told us that we had too much stuff in the attic of what is now our combined office. The structure was not built to hold boxes and boxes of school materials and childhood treasures and CDs of our daughters, plus boxes and boxes of old administrative papers, letters and postcards from Axel, his parents and his former loves, clothes for dolls, for babies, for grownups, countless yards of African fabrics, dishes, moth eaten camel and cow hair rugs, saddle bags, mementos, and boxes and boxes of books: French books, African books, Lebanon books, yearbooks, Dutch books, and magazines that we once thought worth keeping.

Discard from roof and memory lane

And so we embarked on an exhausting trip down memory lane, which included countless steps up and down from the attic to the basement and back, aggravating our muscle and tendon problems from which we are now recovering. 

Peter Walsh, whose book, Let It Go, we first borrowed from the library, then bought as we figured it was an important reference manual, guided us on our journey. What is a treasure, what is a toxic memory?  Much as we did some months ago when we threw out all the papers and cuttings and letters related to our plane crash, now we threw out, without second thoughts, dismal papers and photos and magazines about the years we lived in Lebanese which was at war.

I threw out my entire collection of Dutch literature, closing a door on that part of my life. I had put adds on the website for Dutch people in the Boston area but got no response. I knew I was not going to re-red them and knew no one who would want them.

We made piles for the thrift stores in our area, for the Waring School (all the French books), and the higher end (and pickier) resale boutique in our town, the Stock Exchange. The rest piled up in our office to take to our daughters, including my grandfather’s desk on which I prepared for my final school exams in the spring of 1970. Tessa and I had a facetime session going through all her artwork portfolios, a tedious exercise but it thinned things out considerably.

We found a carefully wrapped up and preserved lot of baby clothes, they were Axel’s. I recognized some from pictures preserved in small photo albums, also in those boxes. They are vintage 1940s. There was a story there, a sad story of the siblings that never came, yellow clothes in case the baby was a girl. I carefully washed and ironed them and then hung them in the grandkids room closet. Not that I would want any kid to wear these clothes today but I simply couldn’t throw them out. I did check the vintage baby clothes offerings on Etsy and eBay but noticed there was a glut (though very little from the 40s). I think these clothes are most interesting for textile artists who can turn them into something beautiful. I will ask around to find people who may want to do that.

I offered up to the dumpster a collection of conference briefcases that I had once hoped to attach to a wall in my office as they were all locally handcrafted and some quite beautiful. But the idea was rejected and I had packed them up, for what? So much of what was up in the attic was there because we thought they were treasures but we learned from Peter Walsh that very few items are truly treasures, the others simply labeled as such because we didn’t know what to do with them. Out they went.

When the dumpster retrieval man showed up I asked what happens to all the detritus and discards as I was feeling badly about what we were adding to a landfill. He told me it gets sorted and only stuff that cannot be recycled (sadly: plastics) goes to the landfill. Metal, paper and wood is separated and recycled or burned (hmmm). And there we stood on the now liberated driveaway, looking up at our new roof that we will never have to replace again (our kids will) and then taking in the opened up space in the attic. 

Voice, empathy and compassion

When I was 10 or 12 I used to borrow books from the library about the lives of accomplished women like Marie Curie, Florence Nightingale. I think I inherited a gene from my maternal line that assumed men and women were equal and deserved to be treated equally and could do anything that the other sex could do (men could knit sox and sew clothes and women could be captains, and train conductors). This wasn’t the prevailing opinion in the 1950s in Holland. Only boys played soccer or cricket. Women doctors were rare except in well baby clinics and as teachers of hygiene (which is what my mom did). Most of the mothers of my schoolmates stayed at home, and those who had started university studies stopped them when they got married.  

Mari Popova, in her book ‘Figuring’ tells the stories of several accmplished women who lived in the 18th, 19th and 20th centuries and whom I had never heard about. All these women, astronomers, artists, mathematicians, inventors also bucked the trend: they were told to get married and focus on children and home.

I am curious about these women who have veered from the path that convention prescribed.  My mom did that, both my grandmothers did that.

To this day I am fascinated by women who dare to run for president of the United States, who take on powerful industry lobbies because of the damage they do, who call out abuses that have gone unchallenged. During my early morning exercise bike rides, I have been listening to Michelle Obama, Melinda Gates, Hillary Clinton and Elizabeth Warren telling their stories and making history (her-story) in the process. 

Two things have struck me in all their stories:  they all got to the place where they made history (her-story) because they found (recovered) their authentic voice, never silenced by convention and/or powerful men. They also are (and may be this is a typical feminine trait) driven to understand other people’s lives – empathy is the word they all use. 

In my various neuroscience classes I am learning that empathy isn’t actually as great as people claim. If I empathize with someone who is not in a good place, my brain chemistry micks the other’s and I risk getting into that not so good place myself. Better is compassion, which is a combination of empathy (understanding the other, standing under the other’s reality) and action (“how can I help you?”).

With the democratic primary campaigning in full flight I am looking for candidates who show compassion with proposals for action, anchored in understanding (empathy if you will) that are actually realistic and realizable.

Perspective

From often windy and overcast and drizzly Scotland we are back in daily 10+ days: blue skies, no or light breezes and temperatures that the Scots would consider too hot but we feel are just right.

After no exercise (other than walking a lot) for two weeks, I resumed my daily swims in Lobster Cove waters that are as close to warm as it gets. 

Before I go in the water I scan the mouth of Lobster Cove for fins, white fins. Great white sharks (one or many I don’t know) have been spotted nearby. Since we already have had a 45 feet whale in the cove (granted, it was dead), why not a great white shark?

I swim with goggles because I want to know what is going on beneath me, which is why I don’t like dark muddy ponds or the open waters outside the mouth of our cove.

Lobster Cove is fairly clear these days. I can see the green crabs fighting with each other. Fine, let them kill each other, after they have eaten all the baby mussels it serves them right!

I just finished Maria Popova’s opus magnum (Figuring), all 550 pages of it; a book I plucked from Sita’s eclectic collection of books, and have been carting across the Atlantic and back.  

Popova (whose ‘Brainpickings’ I have subscribed to for several years now), has created something best described as a tapestry of words. Using diaries and letters as her main source, she took me into the lives of some extraordinary women who choose paths of great resistance over prescribed social conventions. They were all pulled by an innate force that knew of their talent. What obstacles, what bigotry, what bias they all had to deal with. And I wonder about all the women that were not able to muster all that courage, or weren’t supported by some remarkable and enlightened men (fathers, lovers, publishers, colleagues); how much talent was lost?

One of the last creative geniuses Popova writes about is Rachel Carson. I think a lot about Rachel Carson as I step into the waters of Lobster Cove, and watch, like a voyeur, what’s going on beneath me; the creatures that eat each other, wondering about the white shark that would eat me. Rachel Carson saw with great clarity, all these years ago, that you cannot interfere in ecosystems without expecting consequences: the killing of seals (they open lobster traps) led to their protection, which led to seal overpopulation which attracted sharks, first the smaller ones until word reached the larger ones that there was good food to be had along the Massachusetts coast. So what are we going to do now? I know what I am going to do now: I am going to re-read Carson’s Silent Spring.

Guest at home

We were welcomed back at our own home with hugs as if we were old friends. This was not a surprise. When you live for two weeks in someone else’s home you learn a lot about their personalities. We learned first of all what they looked like from the many family photos on the walls. We also saw what books they are reading (we like some of the same authors), the games they play as a family, the kids’ toys and books, the garden (we enjoyed their raspberries while they enjoyed ours before Scottish and American birds got them), the spices they cook with, the wines they drink. Everything in one’s home is imbued with what one values. And once you discover that you have some of those values in common, there is an unavoidable attraction. 

We also communicated a lot over the last two weeks on WhatsApp about such mundane things as garbage disposal, the demise of the little apple tree, where do we find the toaster, etc. All these things together created a bond one could not possibly expect if the exchange had been a commercial transaction.

The guidelines from Home Exchange suggested we unclutter (a good suggestion) and remove very personal items. We found that it is these very personal items (unless fragile, of immense value and/or irreplaceable) that are important in an exchange, and set the stage for a friendship to bloom – something we have never experienced using VRBO, AirBNB or other vacation rentals. This is the brilliance of the home exchange idea – you actually create new friendships across oceans and lands. 

We were in invited to dinner in our own home – it was at first a strange sensation, to be served by people you have never met in your own kitchen and seeing them move with ease, knowing exactly where to find what. They had gotten as much at home in our kitchen as we had been in theirs.  

We were served tea and cake, (there had been a birthday), followed by a swim. Then it was the cocktail hour. We had champagne, and toasted to our new friendship. The boys watched movies in the living room while we exchanged stories about our adventures over dinner preparations. We discovered that Axel had snapped a picture that included the kids’ grandma who is part of a rowing boat crew we watched while having our pint on the Portobello Promenade. It was great being a guest at home.

The dinner was exquisite: a crab bisque made from crabs caught by the boys, washed down with a crisp and cool white wine, followed by eggplant parmigiana and a desert consisting of raspberry crème, toasted oats and fresh raspberries, plucked from our raspberry bushes that are in full production.  

The champagne, the wine, the food and the five extra hours of the time zone change made it hard to keep my eyes open. I retired to our office where we had set up temporary quarters until our friends move to their next exchange in Newport today.

This was our second exchange. There is one more when we leave for Maine, a family from Canada. It was a good idea, this signing our house up for Home Exchange a year ago. It was a lot of work to get to the first exchange but now we are in the period of its sweet rewards. By the time we get back from Maine we will have accumulated enough points (the currency of Home Exchange) for about 22 days in houses anywhere in the world that Delta’s frequent flier miles can carry us.

A last day in Bonnie Scotland

We walked more than was good for us on Monday, our last full day in Bonnie Scotland. We have learned, the hard way, that Google maps isn’t all that dependable. We also never quite know what the reference point is for turning this or that way. You can see your path but you have to walk awhile before you notice that you are walking in the wrong direction. On the small phone screen it is hard to see the city’s bigger picture. As we already knew, context is everything, and old fashioned paper maps provide context in a way that no digital map can compete with.  

We visited the second Museum of Modern Art, which turned out to be Number One of the two. The gallery, and at least one other place we had seen from the topfloor of the double decker bus we traveled to and from the city daily, must have hired a graphic designer who thought he (or she) had a brilliant idea: to put the name of the museum partially on one surface and partially on another, in such a way that you can never see the entire name of the place you are visiting from any one vantage point.  We arrived at the  ‘onal ottish lery dern,’ or something like it. You’d have to know that you were nearing the National Scottish Gallery of Modern Art. Axel said if he had submitted something like that when he was still a student at Mass College of Art his professor would have given him an F (“ a cute but useless signage design”).

We had lunch at the museum café on the outside terrace in a lovely garden. We wanted to sit outside because the sun was shining, and this has been rare and should always be taken advantage of. However, there was also a very strong wind, so strong that it blew the salad leaves right off our plate and Axel had to hold on to this beer bottle. It was so strong that back at our temporary home it had blown over the infant apple tree with its heavy load of a dozen good looking (but still immature) apples. 

We had one final pint, a wee dram of whiskey and an Edinburgh Original G&T in a very old pub, off the Royal Mile, the one with the sign that says ‘unlearn whiskey, drink more gin.’ We now understand why gin is being promoted so heavily (and why everybody and their brother are now distilling gin): it takes a lot less time before you can cash in on your gin making investment – good Scotch takes a while before you can charge an arm and a leg for a bottle. 

We had reserved a table at our favorite oyster and fish restaurant just in time to take advantage of the ‘buck a shuck’ special (which, for our dozen and a half of oysters, shaved 40 pounds off our final bill) and sampled more of their creative and yummy seafood tapas.

On the day of our departure we got up with the sun, a last hurrah before we landed in cool Manchester where we took our Scottish weather it seems. We rode the tram to the airport sitting beside a compatriot who was not only a citizen of Cambridge (MA), but also Dutch, small world I muttered to myself, in Dutch.

At the airport I checked the prices of the 10 best peaty and smoky whiskeys against the list I had copied from Esquire Magazine. I sampled a few but decided none was worth the kind of money I would have to shell out. l don’t have a whiskey habit and live a perfectly satisfactory life without wee drams. And maybe it is with whiskey as it is with arak or Pernod – they taste best in the places where they belong.With this vacation over, we are gearing up for Saffi’s fourth birthday, Faro’s Opa-and-oma-(and-Audubon-camp) vacation, and then our next vacation with the whole family in Brooksville Maine, just 11 days away. The best thing about being a free agent is that can have as much vacation as I want, until the money runs out. 

Fall

While the US east coast is suffering from a heat wave, here in Scotland I could be fooled into thinking it is already fall. People wear woolen caps and down jackets. It is cold, rainy and windy. I am sure that in two days, back home in the heatwave, we will wish that we were back here. But right now, I could do with some sun and warm weather. 

Yesterday, we woke up to a blue sky and sun, a teaser that didn’t last long as the clouds moved in fast. The weather app on my phone now only shows cloud and rain icons for our last two days here (and beyond). I lost my vacation mood for a moment, but what else can you do than pack your umbrella and clothes for three seasons.  The spring and fall jacket I brought that, back home, I never wear between  June and late September, is on duty most every day.

On the bus to the city we found ourselves surrounded by foreigners: Germans, French, Canadians, and Italians. I suspect this was a fresh batch of visitors who completed their workweek or school year last Friday and flew in on Saturday. 

We went to our second Quaker meeting, but his time we picked the later meeting, the one that starts at 11AM.  As we were racing up to the Old Town against the clock – it was nearly  11 – we saw a Quaker we met last week coming down (having completed the early meeting). We said hello but she didn’t recognize me with my new Glasgow hairdo. She apologized profusely and then told us that, although we were late, there is a grace period of 10 minutes for latecomers.  We slowed down our pace and then climbed the stairs that provide a shortcut to the Quaker House; narrow little alleyways and steps seemingly cut out of the medieval stone in between and underneath the enormous stone buildings of the old city.

The late meeting for worship is better attended than the early one. I counted some 30 people. The last 15 minutes a Jesuit Priest was invited to talk about how Catholics use silence in their worship. He will be followed by representatives from other faiths the next few months after the Edinburgh Festival is over and life returns to normal in September. 

It was an interesting talk and I would have liked to attend the other talks. At the end visitors were asked to introduce themselves and so we learned we were not the only foreigners (3 other people from the US and one Swede). Again, everyone greeting us warmly.

We lingered a bit, Quakers love to talk after an hour of silence, but did not partake in the communal soup and bread lunch. We had a lunch date with our friend R. who lives on the west side of the city. She had visited us last week in Portobello but this time the visit was on her turf, an Art Nouveau style flat that reminded us of the flats where Hercule Poirot searches for clues. Unlike Mackintosh’s designs, this one was all curves, except for the door and window frames, no hard rectangles. 

After lunch we took a short and slow walk (her aging cairn terrier and us all with our arthritic joints and tight muscles). The walk led us through the gardens around a large castle-like estate with a splendid view of the Forth and some very tall and unusual trees one doesn’t usually see in landscapes here.

We ended the cool drizzly day looking for a restaurant that would take us without a reservation. We had good luck at our second try and found a restaurant on Rose Street that served us the mussels, scallops and salmon we craved.  Back home we cared for our sore legs while watching the Scottish version of Antique Roadshow. Outside a storm was raging and the sky was practically touching the earth.

Memories and hallowed grounds

We probably last saw each other in 1964 and then our paths diverged, running on parallel lines – public sector/private sector – for, what, 45 years? Facebook brought us back together, not once but twice. We met in person because J.  lives in Scotland with her husband, not all that far from where we are staying. 

We drove to meet her. I was curious, would we recognize each other when we last saw each other when we were teenagers? We did, and we re-counted old stories, perspectives told from two different sides. She felt the odd ball out, I thought she was so exotic. I told her about an odd present she gave to me at my birthday party, a 10 year old girl. It was a red enamel saucepan. It was odd at the time, but that little pan traveled with me to Leiden, to Beirut, to Dakar, to Brooklyn, to West Newbury and finally to Manchester by the Sea. It is only recently that it went to a landfill because holes in the bottom had made it useless. It is the only present I remember from that time, 58 years ago. 

J and her husband completed careers with Shell while I also worked all over the world, with governments and NGOs. She had collected all the KLM houses from traveling business class all those years, then sold them for 9 or 10 pounds apiece. I never got the complete collection, business class not allowed unless you were lucky, which must have happened a few times, since I have about one and a half meter of them.

Although the contexts in which we worked were as different as nigth and day,  we did the same thing – helping people fulfill their leadership potential. When J. led me into her study I saw a bookshelf that could have been mine. 

Our hosts took up golfing when they retired with a nice package from Mr. Shell. They live on a golf estate. The place is awash in golfers and places to practice the sport. We visited the mecca of golfers, the St. Andrew’s old link. We tried to be in awe of all this hallowed ground but we have never been bitten by the golf bug and didn’t feel the need to have our picture taken on a popular bridge with another enormous clubhouse as a backdrop.

Foreigners who want to play here have to put their name in a hat, draw the right lot and then pay a 250 pound for a round of golf on the oldest of public golf courses (or any of the 6 other courses). Our friends get the insiders price, 400 pounds for an entire year to play on any of the these links 7 days a week. If you are a fanatic it may pay to move here.

We then ambled over to the university where one of Tessa’s friends studied, past the coffee shop where Kate and Will met and then on to another hallowed ground, the remnants of the ancient St. Andrews cathedral with its stunning bacdrop of the North Sea.

We had lunch in our friends’ club (for golfers of course), high on a hill with another spectacular view of the coast line veering west than north. And all the while the sun was shining.

We drove back the 70 or so miles home, me driving as I have now mastered the challenges of driving on the left and am familiar again with the stick shift using my left hand. Axel was the navigator with Google’s assistance. We drove back via Dundee. When we hear Dundee the word marmelade automatically pops up – the marmelade that came in white ceramic jards with nice black letting. Noone here seems to have the marmelade association, funny.

It was too late to see the new V&A museum on the inside. We got a glimpse from of the outside since the road home led straight past the museum and as well as the ship on which Scott sailed to the Antarctic. They will have to wait for a next visit.

Brilliance

We are learning to say ‘brilliant’ instead of ‘fabulous,’ or ‘great,’ or ‘wow!’ We saw more of Makintosh’s (and his wife’s) brilliance today in the house he designed for a German competition. He (they) didn’t win the competition and probably should have. The house (A House for An Art Lover) was not meant to be build. But it was built anyways by architects and crafts men and women who liked a challenge. 

The house is located in the middle of the grounds where the World International Exhibition was held in 1901 – a large park that now contains sports club, the Mackintosh house, a beautiful walled garden, glass (=green) houses, and even several ski slopes where young Glaswegians were preparing their slaloms to be ready for the first snow fall (apparently just a few months away).

We had reserved a table in the restaurant that is located at the ground floor of The House, following the recommendations of our newly discovered virtual guide, the chaotic scot. It was a superb meal (our umpteenth), which left us full for hours.

We had lucked out on sunshine and blue sky for a good part of the day, making our walk through the garden very pleasant. By the time we had figured out which bus would get us to the next attraction the rains had arrived. As someone pointed out, that was the weather more typical at this time of the year. 

Our last museum visit in Glasgow was the Riverside Museum, mostly to admire the late Zaha Hadid’s design.  We should have had Faro with us as it was full of mechanical things he would have liked, some very large and some very small (boats, trains and automobiles). A tall ship moored on the quai allowed for a nice view of the building.

We picked up our backpacks at the hotel and, in the pouring rain, headed to Queen Station to catch the express train back to Edinburgh. We had hoped to find a nice pub at the station for a pint before boarding the train, but unlike Glasgow’s Central Station it was more functional (get on or off the train and leave!). We boarded the train earlier than planned, to get out of the rain and have our pint in Edinburgh just in time for the cocktail hour.  A little impatient I got myself a wee dram of single malt from the catering man with the trolley who happened to have such things on his cart (of course). And here ends our Glasgow adventure.


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