Archive Page 20

Good luck for managing VUCA

I have known about the concept of VUCA for some time (Volatile, Uncertain, Chaotic  (or Complex) and Ambiguous). It has been a theoretical concept, only mildly expressed in my peaceful and protected life in Manchester by the sea. I didn’t really understand what VUCA means until our meeting this afternoon with the ICRC officer in charge of our security briefing. As he described the political situation in Mali, the letters VUCA flashed in front of my eyes.  There are so many factors at work, so many interests, so many weapons, so much unchartered territory, so much anger, so much disappointment, so much mistrust.  There is the vast Sahel, flooded with weapons drugs and the most desperate young people seeking a better life in Europe..and always people taking advantage of the misery of others to enrich themselves. And then there is a very divided governing elite, plus active religious partisans – I is hard to wrap your head around it.  

If ever I experienced a sense of doom it was in that otherwise sunny and nicely decorated office of the officer as I watched the map and our briefer’s finger tracing the parts of Mali that are now off limits and/or ungovernable.  I asked how he was managing to stay optimistic and do his work amidst so many distressing signals and events. A few weeks ago there was a massacre  of Fulani herders. Some 160 of them got killed. This followed after the Malian government cracked down on Islamic terror cells in the country. These terror cells have become more virulent and are spreading, like a cancer across national boundaries (including once considered peaceful Burkina Faso).  The white blood cells (the government’s forces) are supposed to attack these cells but they seem impotent. Militias are forming to fill the vacuum – ICRC is trying to figure out who is legitimate, with whom to establish relationships so it can continue to do its work.

The government didn’t hold, for this and other reasons; people are protesting in the streets, kids have lost a school year as teachers are striking and all the while ISIS is rebuilding its base in the desert – its new headquarters after Trump declared ISIS was conquered. It is not.  It is cultivating its force far away from its former bases in Syria and Iraq. There are signs that Sri Lanka’s sleeper cells were activated from here. The attacks can happen anywhere. This is what terror is about: fear it can happen here. Yet the American press is mostly preoccupied with the Mueller report. As if….

Bombs that can be activated by cell phones, and new mines are being placed in some parts of Mali. This will ensure that more people will lose their limbs and so the national rehab center I am working with this week can expect more and more people who need to learn to live without their God-given limbs. They will need prosthetists, physical therapists, orthopedic surgeons, social workers, wheelchairs, crutches and, most of all, a family support system. It is a very tall order for this government institution that is funded by public monies and, for now, considerable support from ICRC. It will need to wean itself from the latter, just when demand is like to grow, exponentially.

The demand is already exceeding the center’s capacity to deliver the services. A few new regional centers are being planned, some already under construction – but the question is, how can these centers be staffed, supplied and supervised in the face of increasing insecurity in the country. The cities, I am told, are still OK, but the roads servicing those cities are not. Soon it is planting time – but the seeds and fertilizers needed to plant the field need to come over the road – and others are eyeing the trucks for cheap supplies. It’s not just the war machine that is in full operation here – there is a settling of accounts, re-taking of fields and other goods some feel more entitled to than their current owners. I thought of Rwanda where the settling of accounts was as much a drive as the prevailing narrative of ethnic cleansing. I thought of how Kagame, enlightened dictator, has turned things around. A new Prime Minister is taking the helm this week. He has the unenviable (and maybe impossible) task to turn the tide of political turmoil, economic downturn, environmental degradation, insecurity, an enraged population and oppositional forces who want to see him fail. Good luck with the VUCA.

On the road again

Our 33rdEaster celebration took place before Easter because of my trip to Mali and our art camp that will follow. Mid-May is simply too late to associate with Easter. We lucked out on the one sunny and mild day in weeks. As usual it was a joyful gathering though several longtime and relatively new friends were missing because of our just-in-time invite.  We went electronic (with eVite) but will return to old fashioned invites in envelopes with real stamps next year.

In my clean up frenzy of the last few weeks I had injured my lower back, picking up and moving some items that I shouldn’t have. Impatient to wait for help I moved them anyways and in doing so, stupidly, hurt my back in a way I have never done before. I had instant sympathy for people complaining about their backs. Unable to get either a chiropractor or massage therapist to reduce the debilitating spasms Axel used his iStem on my back– a gadget that delivered small electrical currents to my lower back. It gave me some relief albeit temporarily. Sitting and standing was no problem, but getting up or bending over was very painful. I started to move like a (really) old person and wondered about my flight.

On the eve of Easter, the flight to Paris was only half full. Did people cancel trips because of one of the main attractions, the Notre Dame, being crossed off the tour program, I wondered? I had two front seats to myself and managed to sleep. Once in line to boarding the Bamako and Abidjan flight that luxury was gone – even on Easter Sunday. The flight was completely full. It’s a short flight, and this one a day flight, so I didn’t mind.  The back pain had eased – now I was simply stiff after the long flights, but not in pain.

I did not find the promised ICRC chauffeur holding up a sign to bring me to my hotel. I waited for about half an hour in 102 degrees and then got a taxi (climatisé).  Since the back doors had no handles and opened with difficulty the driver invited me to sit in front. I took the dusty seatbelt and clicked it in. The chauffeur laughed. It stopped the seatbelt sign from blinking.

Even though he said he knew where the hotel was he had to call a friend on his flip phone for directions. He pressed the flip phone between his shoulder and his ear and shiftied gears with his left hand. I asked him to stop multi-tasking. He agreed but then kept talking and driving.  I gestured he was about to lose his ride. He pulled over, finished his call and concentrated on the one task I was paying him for, except for removing his neon yellow  ‘taxi-aeroport’ vest, letting go of the steering wheel with both hands for an instant. I held my tongue.

To make small talk I asked him about the mangoes – it is that season here. I don’t think he understood me. A few kilometers later he suddenly stopped, in the middle of a busy road and put the car in reverse. He had spotted a woman selling mangoes. After that the ride was uneventful. 

On the dashboard in front of me, as if written with ‘wite-out’ I read:“monsieur so and so, telephone so and so, marketing mechanic, please contact on this number. Forbidden (‘Def.’) to speak with the driver,’ like the placard in a bus. We didn’t talk anymore after that. He did deliver me to the right hotel and in his car climatisé and so I gave him the  agreed upon 10 Euro fare.

Strands

Multiple strands are coming together, centering around the brain. I may still understand little about what is going on in our brains but it is a lot more than I did only 2 years ago. It all started with a promotional video by an extraordinary woman named Judith E. Glaser, about her Conversational Intelligence™ program. That was my first introduction to how we think and how we converse with each other bring about chemical changes which then bring about other changes in how we relate to each other, the culture we create and thus our ability to rise to great heights and be creative together (or not). I enrolled in her course and saw it through to certification over a one year period. It changed everything.

I soon realized I was missing some critical information about the anatomy and functions of our brains – so I completed a 3 month Coursera course on neurobiology for lay people. That taught me something about the limbic system and the hippocampus and how our vision and hearing and speech work, and much more.

I started to listen to webinars on coaching and the brain and suddenly I found courses and webinars and books on neuroscience (for lay people) everywhere. Then I encountered the word epigenetics and could not grasp what that was all about, so I enrolled in another Coursera course on Epigenetics and paid the 49 dollars for the certificate. Not that a certificate is important to me but paying 49 dollars keeps me from dropping out when the going gets tough. It is forcing me to pass the quiz for each module.  The 7 module course is a huge stretch for me. Although I was good in chemistry in high school, I never learned about biochemistry and molecular biology. I have, miraculously, received a passing grade for the first four quizzes. Passing is the right word, no spectacular results. Some of my answers are guesses and some I really knew. My brain is working overtime. 

Axel wondered if I was actually learning anything or just studying for the tests. I actually do now understand at least something about DNA, gene expression, RNA and methylation and acetylation, long non-coding RNAs, enzymes and what not. I now know that saying ‘that’s just the way I am’ is nonsense. We are what we believe, what we eat, were we live, how our parents treated us, what we see, hear, touch and smell. This is the work of epigenetics. Which, incidentally, is also the essence of countless books and webinars that the internet algorithms now place on my path. And I reward these algorithms by buying the books, registering for the webinar, taking the courses. It’s the ultimate mimicry of how the brain works – more learning, more practice, more strands of neural fibers.

Reboot

I have been admonished by some of my faithful readers to write more. Why haven’t I been writing for a month? Too busy? I think I was busier before my full time job was terminated. It’s true that the busier I was the more organized I was. So this is a reboot.

I have been kind of busy, but not accompanied by the usual discipline of writing. Since my last post about Senegal I have returned to cold and wintry Massachusetts, went on a ski trip with the grand kids, made a brief trip to North Carolina with its daffodils and flowering trees and returned home to suffer through a series of three snow storms in a row, leaving us with half a meter of snow and lots of black ice.

The grandkids took to cross country skiing with great ease and glee. Saffi’s bottom is about one foot off the ground, so falling and getting up was no big deal, a source of much giggling and laughing by all. Both she and Faro loved going fast down tracks of the little practice hills in front of the Jackson X-country ski lodge. Oma functioned as a ski lift from time to time, pulling Saffi up by her ski pole. Faro was old enough for lessons and made quick progress.

After I became a free agent I had signed us up at the Home Exchange site, a French site that helps people switch homes for a short period. We have three exchanges organized for the summer: one with a family from Breckenridge, CO (though we won’t do the exchange, getting points instead which will allow us to ‘pay’ for stays in people’s homes when they are elsewhere or their second homes); then one with a family from Scotland – we are switching homes for two weeks, and finally one with a family from Canada who will be in our house while we are in Maine. It is our very first experience having strangers stay in our home and it has led to some long overdue repairs and much decluttering. As for the latter we are getting excellent decluttering advice from the book ‘Let It Go’ by Peter Walsh (no, we didn’t find Konmari’s approach as helpful).

And so this is where we are now – the upstairs bathroom is empty (and therefore out of order) except for the bathtub. Carpenters, plumbers, painters and floor sanders are lined up, we hope, in the right succession. With this we are finally turning a bathroom with distinct 50s features (Kelly green trim, severely rusted pipes, leaks, rusted sink, plug-prone toilet) into a 21st century bathroom that is code compliant and has a fresh new look.

Habits

For three days I observed some 20 Senegalese, mostly pharmacists, wrestle with the complexity of the pharmaceutical supply chain. The chain requires that numerous actors, each with their own needs and motives, work flawlessly together to bring the medicines to the people who need them.

Aside from the actors there are also many places along the chain where things can go wrong, or not happen at all.  The last kilometer has become a bit of a rallying cry. It’s a concept that sounds simple but is very complex. When I asked why that last mile doesn’t see as many good quality products as it should, there were many opinions which led to heated debates.  Not knowing much about the supply chain, and not being a pharmacist, I focused on the dynamics between the teams to see whether some of the causes of the problems could be traced to the way the talked with each other.  So I held up a mirror from time to time and things quieted down and there was a pause for reflection.

To the puzzled looks of the hotel staff I had said I wanted the chairs placed in front of the tables, set up in U form, not in back. I explained that the tables formed a barrier between the participants and that it also invited people to place their laptops and (multiple) phones on the tables so they could monitor incoming emails and text messages. This is the new addiction of our times (“let me check my phone to see if anyone, anywhere, wants me for something.”)

After the initial surprise about the setup people sat down. But before we started they had already placed their phones and laptops on their knees – habits are hard to break. We discussed how we were going to work together these three days. They agreed that having various devices open was not such a good idea. One by one the laptops disappeared. The phones was another story. I had made sure that no one had a relative in a hospital somewhere, or was close to dying or giving birth,. Despite the commitments, cellphones kept ringing, people answered them, and many couldn’t help themselves to check messages regularly.

Back where home was

I am back in Senegal. I was last here fourteen years ago, when, accompanied by the girls and Axel, we celebrated our 25th wedding anniversary. However, it had been 40 years since I was last at the hotel I am staying at now. It was called Le Meridien then. My parents stayed here when we lived in Dakar. The hotel is now named after a Saudi King. 

It is located in what was a quiet but windy part on the northern side of Cap Vert where Dakar is located, in a small village called Les Almadies. A tiny little restaurant built on the rocks, with not much of an inside, offered simple lunches, fish, brochettes, frites. While waiting for the food to arrive (never fast), we walked on the black rocks looking for treasures. There was very little construction here and other than the Meridien, nothing tall.

Now the US embassy is here, with countless other embassies and well-guarded residences of people who did well, either because they bought land here all these years ago, or got their wealth from connections to a previous president and his circle of cronies. Or maybe they won the lottery. 

The airport is now far away from Dakar. It has the allure of a modern airport. It is still clean and organized. Entering the country was a breeze – no lines for the visa counter. The visa is free and is issued in no time: four fingers on the reader, a look in the camera, and stamp-stamp and I was in. The luggage part was not so efficient – it took an hour for my bag to arrive and by then half of all passengers were still waiting for theirs.

Once again, the driver who was supposed to pick me up was not there but, unlike my experience in Zambia, two months ago, this time I was prepared. I had the driver’s number and the name of the hotel. A nice young man named Mounir saw me looking, and looking. He offered to help. He called the driver who told Mounir someone else was at the airport, not with my name on a piece of paper, but the name of the company. He clearly was not on his post when I came out. Mounir asked for a little something to compensate him for his services – not everyone is so altruistic. I gave him something that I thought was a lot for his two phone calls and walking me across the length of the arrival hall. He wanted more. I said I thought he was richly compensated and he backed off. It doesn’t hurt to try and I am sure he is often successful.  Eventually I was delivered, 3 hours after I landed, to my hotel on the other side of Dakar.

The hotel still has the same furniture in the rooms. It’s funny how I instantly recognized it. The hotel has a superficial glow of luxury and I am sure the prices are commensurate with that. But underneath are may signs of poor maintenance and surface cleaning. The breakfast food was, like the hotel, good looking only.  I am not a food snob but this I recognized as mass produced food with little attention to quality and freshness. The dining area feels like an airport restaurant – cavernous and noisy. There are many US military here, body-built guys who fill the gym with testosterone. Elections are only a few weeks off – observers are streaming in. The military are here, I suppose, because of Senegal’s proximity to the Sahara desert. Parts of the Sahel (the Sahara’s front yard) and the Sahara itself are crawling with bad people, drugs, arms and poor souls who want to get to Europe. I presume it is also a perfect training ground for new crops of terrorists as all the key ingredients are present: an unlimited and never ending supply of potential recruits (poor young men with no prospects), money, drugs, arms and an easily cultivated hate of the west and western life style.

The promise of music

On Friday I drove to Boston to get my old violin looked at. I had expected to pay a few hundred dollars and wait a few weeks to get it back, repaired and ready for my first violin lesson in at least 3 decades. 

As it turned out the was so much wrong with my old violin that the option of simply renting a new one for a while became more attractive. It would come all ready to play with a case, a bow, new strings and guaranteed new string if any of them would snap, even a new block of rosin for my bow. The repair lady asked me whether the violin had sentimental value, in case repairs might be worthwhile before she started to point out all the places that needed to be re-glued, re-attached and re-shaped. I told her no. Half an hour later I walked out with my new rental – I had made a commitment for one year. It was cheaper and the rent would count towards eventual purchase. I will made my old violin available to anyone who wants a violin for decoration.

It was strange to put the violin under my chin again. My first efforts to play were horrible and I realized I had seriously overestimated my ability to play again. I called my ukulele teacher and asked for a violin teacher and told her I was ready to start with lessons right away.

Awaiting the appointment for my first lesson I started practicing scales-whether for my ukulele or violin, I knew you could never practice your scales enough. That is when I noticed my shoulder repairs had left me with very little stamina to keep the violin up – five minutes is all I could manage before my arm started to drop. I don’t know whether it’s simply a matter of building up muscle again or whether the rotator cuff surgery had left me impaired for good.  I have decided I will play 5 minutes (scales only) several times a day to see if there is any progress. In the meantime the ukulele teacher has also asked me to do finger exercises to send messages to my aching finger joints that they need to loosen up. Musci heals, I am told. I will test that.

Family & art

The income generating activities planned for January are not happening as planned, thanks to our president. This will thus be my first month without any income. It’s not affecting my spending pattern tough. Inspired by my ukulele lessons and the joy I get from making music, however clumsy, I have decided to pick up my violin again, and take lessons – for the first time in 4 decades. The violin needs some work, and a new case. The case arrived today, so now I can take the instrument to be repaired and fixed up – a new bridge, new strings and new hair on my bow. It’s a costly operation, but the urge to play the violin again after all these years is strong. The money will have to come out of my retirement fund, which appears to be recovering from a steep drop late last year. 

As part of my effort to avoid getting stale in my coaching skills I registered for peer coaching, organized by the International Coach Federation of which I am a member and by which I am accredited (albeit at the lowest level).  I coach someone in Wisconsin and am being coached by someone in Vancouver. My Vancouver coach asked me about my transition from full time employment to self-employed. After having been FT employed for more than 30 years it was a transition. She asked me what I was transitioning to. I didn’t know and have thought much about it. Over the last 4 sessions with her things have become clearer: a physical move to my new office cut ties with my ‘work-from-home-MSH office.’ I am literally in a new place and it is entirely mine: the computer and printers, the office equipment, the printing paper, the paperclips, the licenses, the pens and pencils and of course the income. 

My priorities have shifted as well: more time with family (a ski vacation with everyone next month), more time with art (hence the investment in fixing my violin) and, as a combination of both family and art, I just registered us for a three-day course at the Snow Farm Craft Center in Williamsburg (MA) in May. Axel will be learning about Japanese lock printing and I will perfect my glass bead making skills. It was Sita’s idea who told us about the place and gave us a gift certificate for Christmas.

The clarity also included a choice to stay in our house as long as we can by moving the bedroom down into my old office. It will be a major and no doubt costly project – but better done now than when all my joints are creaky and failing (some already are).  And it’s kind of exciting during those dreary winter months, to think about possibilities and new vistas.

Tidy up and letting go

Like so many baby boomers we are looking at our stuff – the ‘too much’ part of our stuff. We are getting advice from Millennials who are riding the boom, so to speak and selling us methods and books and movies as we transition to what may well be the last phase of our lives.

There is Marie Kondo who tells us how to ‘tidy up’ Japanese style (the folding of clothes into little tents is particularly remarkable). There is Peter Walsh from Australia whose approach gets to the root – his book is called ‘Letting Go.’ It’s the one that speaks most to us. Letting go of treasures (how many treasures do we need?), of stuff we might some time need (but when, didn’t we say this 10 years ago?) of mementos of a long time ago…oh there is so much of that.

And so we are throwing things out, boxes full of written papers we were once so proud of (look what I wrote!), or things I made in Kindergarten, of entrance exams I wrote for the UN, more than 3 decades ago, of my entire administrative correspondence with UNESCO headquarters in late 1979. Out, out!

There is also a staging area in what used to be my office – piles of stuff to go to the thrift store, to the Afghan family in Gloucester, to our daughters.  We are learning from Mr. Walsh not to make a pile of stuff that someone else might like. This would be the equivalent of kicking the clutter can down the street. We help each other by saying – why do you think they’d want this? Aren’t they decluttering too? The hard things are those that express something about what we had wanted to be, aspired to, but didn’t quite get – the letting go is to let go of that image of ourselves. But once you di let go it is so very liberating.

I am now fully moved into Axel’s office. This afternoon we laid the rugs on the floor, over some kind of bubble wrap between reflective paper – it kind of pops, ever so softly, when you walk over it. It is for warmth as the studio has no foundation – just cold air below the floor. The rugs are clean now, we hope, after we hung them out in subzero temperatures for a few days, vacuumed them, sprayed them with pyrethrum to get rid of the carpet beetles that had nestled into the rolled up rugs when we were not looking. The would have eaten the entire rug if I hadn’t moved into my new office and upended the piles of stuff.

The last few days we passed in Den Haag (or rather Scheveningen – the ultimate pronunciation test for non-native speakers) at my sister’s, also in a new house. Here we had our sibling New Year’s lunch, the main reason for the visit.

We ate typical winter fare (pea soup with something like pancetta on dark rye bread) while reminiscing about our youth and our parents, long since gone. It is amazing how different our experiences are and how different our knowledge is. My sister, the oldest, was born during the war (and passed her first winter in what is called the ‘hunger-winter’).  Things were so bad that people even ate the tulip bulbs. I tried to eat one as a teenager, out of curiosity, but dismissed tulip bulbs as inedible (confirming the Dutch proverb that ‘hunger makes raw beans taste sweet’).  

My Irish twin brother and I were raised in a different era, one of great economic growth (the 50s) and my youngest brother, when the rest of us had left for university , has been raised nearly as single child by his parents and grandmother who had moved in – even though he was number 5 of 5.  A pencil drawing of the brother I never knew (who would have been 2/6) hung on the wall. He lived for just a few weeks because of spina bifida, his death an enormous sadness that my parents rarely talked about. 

We looked at old letters and pictures and made new pictures of these 5 aging siblings – it was a joyous occasion! My sister gave me 65 single-spaced carbon copies of letters my father typed on various typewriters during his 3 months trip through Africa. The copies were sent to my mother with handwritten personal notes on the back. The originals are probably still in some archive of the Dutch Brewery Trade Association over which my father presided in the early fifties until he retired.

I am only a third into the letters which provide a window into trade negotiations of European powers in French Africa before countries became independent. Over a period of 3 months he traveled from Amsterdam to Stuttgart to Zurich to Lisbon to Dakar. He stayed in the hotel (the Croix du Sud) where both of us passed our first night in Subsahara Africa, me 25 years later. He then traveled to Conakry where we probably also stayed in the same hotel, then to Abidjan, then via Accra (then called the Gold Coast) to Lome where we also stayed in the same hotel, multiple times upgraded and renamed by the time I got there.

He made all these trips in small DC3 planes which he welcomed because of the air conditioning (I do as well), and mentioning the endless delays between planned and actual departures (maybe not as bad now). He also referred to Air France as a state within a state.  From Lomé he went to Cotonou in what was then Dahomey, then on to The Cameroons as it was referred to at the time. From there to Fort Lamy (?) and then onwards to the Congo, Nairobi, Madagascar…but I haven’t gotten that far in the letters.

I am learning a lot about the complexity of trading with Africa, beer drinking habits of both my father, the locals and the colonial elite (“the French elites don’t drink beer, they drink champagne”), the relationships between blacks and whites and the attitudes of the Europeans towards the locals. Some of my father’s comments make me cringe. My father also writes a lot about the climate, which is of course familiar to me but his comments are interesting given that my father had never been in the (sub)tropics and left Holland in the middle of the winter, now exactly 64 years ago.


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