Archive Page 23

A farewell to MSH

The journey is finally coming to an end. And as the saying goes, it is not the destination but the journey that counts. Actually, there is no destination. I have not arrived, just turned a corner.

When I started working at MSH it was Thanksgiving week in 1986. My new boss had just left for a month and had written down some instructions on what I should be working on. I was hired as a research associate. I don’t think I had a job description. I was joining a team that had started a 5 year project just a year earlier. It was like a startup.  We were building a road towards better management of family planning projects, laying the bricks in front of us. There was lots of energy in the old mansion of Brandegee – a mini Versailles, built by a wealthy merchant with aspirations. We were surrounded, at least downstairs, by curtains from the Imperial palace in Japan, a life-size John Singer Sargent painting of the merchant’s wife, Flamish tapestries and a vast collection of leather bound books that were very, very old.  Upstairs our deputy project director sat in an office that was originally a bathroom, marble-clad. The toilet and bathtub covered with planks.

MSH was already a teenager by the time I joined. I had an informational interview at the mansion two years earlier with one of its many experts – a gentleman who asked me what my expertise was. If I wasn’t intimidated by the setting, I surely was intimidated by him. I am sure I stuttered, turned red in the face and said I could do anything and I was a quick learner. But he dismissed me by saying that MSH needed experts, not generalists. When MSH won the large global FPMT project that changed. Women started to invade what was essentially a male club. After FPMT MSH was never the same again. MSH partnered with Pathfinder in the FPMT project. I had been working as a consultant for Pathfinder and had led the writing of one of the first books that considered the user’s perspective in family planning service delivery. The quality of care movement had just been born, with Judith Bruce who had written the first authoritative book on the subject. Pathfinder proposed me for a position that was sufficiently vague and open that narrow expertise was not required and probably not desirable. My attitude of being a quick learner, speaking French, and having lived in West Africa clinched the deal.

It was a heady time. Of all the people who were there then Ken Heise is the only one left now at MSH. He was the Zaire man, as the DRC was called then, and ex Peace Corps volunteer who had a vast network of friends from that time. All our sister organizations at that time had ex PC volunteers from Zaire – he was known in this new world I entered. I was not. I also was not sure what I wanted to do and what I was good at. I was a psychologist who had lived in Lebanon and Senegal, spoke French, had an American husband and two young children, lived about an hour’s ride north of Brandegee and was looking for a purpose.

That purpose I found when I learned about MSH’s MT (management training) program that was run in collaboration with the Experiment in International Living. We delivered multiple programs for various management disciplines which were essentially the WHO’s health systems pillars: financial management, pharmaceutical management, information management, human resources management and the management of service delivery programs for Child Survival and Maternal and Child Health. With some twenty participants who had come from all corners of the world, each course lasted 6 weeks full of intense learning about management in a highly experiential way. Relationships were forged then that lasted. More than a decade later I was embraced and taken to someone’s home for a meal in Guinea – he had participated in a course and it had changed his life. I was awed by this part of MSH and wanted more of it.

We also had a formidable team, consisting of worker bees like Ken, Ann Buxbaum, and myself, supported by an impressive cast of advisors, faculty members from INCAE in Costa Rica, from AIM in Manila, from one of the management institutes in India and of course from our own backyard, Harvard.

We had organized the task based on levels: we would develop experiential curricula, lots of case studies (influenced by Harvard and the Harvard wannabees) that would target senior level people, mid level managers and young leaders. Since I did not have a job description and my boss was travelling most of the time, I started to read, a habit I developed then and never abandoned. There was not much written about managing family planning programs – the research and literature was either about managing in the (US) private sector, or about the clinical/technical aspects of family planning. We developed case studies and made a deal with Kumarian Press. We published a lot. And then we started teaching what we were learning. And that is when I truly found my purpose. My first trip was to Nigeria, a place few people wanted to travel to. I joined a team of people who became my mentors, already highly accomplished thinkers and doers. One of them introduced me to the reading list for students in Organizational Behavior at the Yale School of Management.  Suffice to say I read them all. I now know many of those books are still considered the classics.

Although I started my traveling as the person who hands out the per diem, the gopher, I was able to sit in the sessions and even do a session, on delegation. We used the book of case studies written by David Korten – the only existing grounded book on the management of family planning programs. I prepared about 8 hours for a 2 hour session, practicing in front of the mirror in my hotel room, and then in front of my mentors.

I soon became a Nigeria expert; that was easy in those days: make a few trips to a country most people didn’t want to travel to and you are an expert. So easy, and so arrogant!

Over the years I realized that it was not so much the teaching that I liked but working with the stories of the people in the room and engage with them, dissect their experiences and help them find things that they could do differently, with less agony or pain and more effect. The dormant psychologist in me finally awoke.

In those heady first few years we were one of just a few doing management training focused specifically on the delivery of programs (FP, child survival, etc). There were of course the universities but their teaching wasn’t practical – a label MSH had already earned and which kept differentiating us from the pack. The other actors in the Global Health space then were CEDPA, which also delivered such programs (and was a partner with us on FPMT), but geared specifically to women. CEDPA had carefully managed and nurtured its alumnae network, something I believe was a tactical omission on our side. We neglected the power of relationships – women of whom many would rise to the top, over the years and who could open doors where others could not. Our own Fatimata Kane in Mali was among them. Fast forward and we know that CEDPA was gobbled up by AED which was then was gobbled up by FHI, becoming FHI360. But CEDPA, in my view, left a giant fingerprint in every country where family planning is now normal.

Back to the late 80s and early 90s: the world, it seemed, was awash with money for family planning. Population pressures, especially in Asia, had already surfaced as major drags to development over the last decades, though in many African countries family planning was eyed with suspicion, as a plot by their former colonial rulers to keep populations down. Family planning program managers had to tread lightly. Especially in Francophone Africa where family planning programs were delivered through state structures advocating for family planning was political suicide. As a result progress was slow and the activists often lonely.  The FPMT project created a network when networks weren’t as much in vogue as they are now, but our instincts were good: we had to connect them to each other and create processes and structures so they could learn from each other rather than teach them. The Francophone Regional Advisory Committee (FRAC) was created in 1986 at MSH in Boston. For the following 12 years we managed to bring people together in nearly each of the countries of the members with a fairly stable membership. Over the last 6 months I have met three women who were part of this network; we hadn’t seen each other in 25 years. Fatimata Kane of MSH/FCI/Mali was one of them. In Niger our FRAC founding member became minister and is now retired. In Mali, just a few weeks ago, I sat with another, also retired now. We talked about how the landscape has changed – family planning is no longer a dirty word and, although not at the levels where it should be, contraceptive prevalence has moved everywhere into the double digits.

And then there was AIDS, as it was referred to at first. The HI virus and resulting ‘slimming’ disease took the world by surprise. Early on we decided that family planning service providers should talk about AIDS and provide information and counseling (there wasn’t much else possible then). But the family planning program directors balked, as were the older nurses. Family planning was respectable, AIDS was not. They didn’t want any association.  But when years later PEPFAR started, with all its extra money, top up payments or attractive salaries, the family planning providers left in droves to work in the PEPFAR funded programs. I imagine one can pinpoint drops in performance of FP programs at that time.

And now the world is a different place in countless ways. Recruitment was easy way back, no need to check terrorist lists, no need to go through security checks at airports, Libya and Iraq still run by dictators (only Mugabe is still there). There was no internet – we had a telex machine that brought us messages from the field, long strips of punched paper curled up on the ground when one walked into the office in the morning. Our cable address was ‘MANSHEALTH.’ We had business cards that looked like lawyers’ business cards, Times New Roman type, no logo, no color. Voicemail was still in the future. We had phones that had small pieces of paper stuck to them with the names of our colleagues and the name of their significant other in brackets. We were amazed when we got our first COMPAQ computers, not individual ones, mind you. You had to go to the third floor library where one was installed. We used IBM selectric type writers. The new computers were not portable but, if needed, luggable, with amber letters dancing on a tiny screen, and floppies. To get anything done in the field took patience and perseverance and lots of time. I remember organizing a FRAC meeting in Guinea and getting a Peace Corps volunteer to travel 100 km to the nearest telephone so we could communicate about logistics.

I have worked an entire generation at MSH. Some of my young colleagues were born the year I started, or even later. They believe in MSH’s purpose. MSH’s creation story remains powerful, as some of us experienced when Ron came over this spring to address the JWLI fellows. He saw a need and he saw a problem that he ascribed not to lack of technical know-how but to the lack of management structures and, more importantly, leadership thinking. Over the years we have expanded management to include leadership and now governance, but the essence remains the same: if people responsible for services start to think and behave as managers who lead then the intended results will flow from there. How to operationalize this in a manner that differentiates us from our competition is the big challenge now.

And so I end this reflection on my journey at MSH with a sense of deep gratitude for what this journey has allowed me to do and become: I am clear on my purpose and will pursue it wherever I can: helping people to have productive conversations. I have been able to raise and educate our kids (one and 5 when I started, and now 32 and 37) – and yes, to all the new moms, it is possible to be a professional and a mother, but not without the agony of thinking you are not enough for anyone tugging at you, the sacrifices, the sleepless nights and tearful farewells.  They will appreciate later what it is you were trying to do, and admire you for it. There’s nothing like a good role model nearby.

I have a network of people I know and respect all over the world. I have gained innumerable deep life-long friendships with people near and far. I have been introduced to a young startup in Zambia that closes the loop for me: there are new versions of MSH in the making. There are young Rons out there. The opportunities for doing good abound, and so does the talent, like Ron’s all these years back, to do something about it. MSH can play the role of a wise elder, nurturing this talent and helping these young idealists to expand the work we are so deeply engaged in.

I want to end with something our erstwhile colleague Morsy (Mansour) wrote in the foreword to Managers Who Lead. Before we even developed the LDP, and in the experiments Jana Ntumba and I did in Guinea, we learned that leading is not about technical expertise – in fact expertise can get in the way and serve as a shield. It is also not about the numbers as the numbers can be fudged and require more controls which starts an endless cycle of more controls and more clever ways around them – people have an amazing capacity to spend their creative creative energy on the wrong things.

What we learned and now know to be true, is that what we are trying to bring about is a change of heart, as hearts cannot be fudged like results; hearts are sustainable as long as they keep beating.  Morsy expressed this so well: “what was missing was something inside [people’s] hearts, something that ignites the fire inside all who want to truly contribute or make a difference. What was missing was commitment. The question became: “How can we inspire this commitment in every health service team and team member?” This is the question that health managers around the world are asking. How can we take our limited resources and give the best of ourselves to ensure the quality we want our people to have? How can we not be stopped in the face of inadequate systems and limited resources? How can we motivate our staff to be creative in overcoming obstacles, when there are so many? I believe that when people are committed they can produce incredible results. Even if the systems are poor, with commitment they will find ways to continuously improve them.”

Morsy and Kahlil Gibran come from the same region and so it is not surprising to find that one echoes the other. Gibran reminds us that “Work is love made visible. The goal is not to live forever; the goal is to create something that will.” There you go, that’s the work. I hope these two quotes take you by the hand and lead you wherever you need to go.

Looking good

The upgrade did not materialize but, at the arrival hall of Logan airport my husband did, as did the wonderful weather and greenery of New England that makes late spring such a wonderful time here, and not such a good time to spend in the Sahel.

During my last week of employ I took care of my looks:  a haircut and teeth cleaning, making myself presentable for my goodbye party on Thursday.

Tessa had been on my case for some weeks now to make reservations for a restaurant to mark the end of my career at MSH – a career that marked pretty much her entire life, most of Sita’s and three quarters of my life with Axel. I invited all three to the party – after all, my salary paid for their education and allowed other things that would not have been possible without MSH. We all are what and where we are for a great deal because of MSH.

I had not taken her exhortations to make up my mind of where to eat very seriously. I am used to make last minute reservations – for two in the area we live in it usually works just fine. But Tessa knows better about Boston and wanting a table for 5.  Tessa is the ultimate millennial when it comes to places to eat – she checks out the websites, triangulates and then makes a triage – she did this so well in New Orleans that she is now my go to person for restaurants outside Cape Ann. When I finally made up my mind, a week before the date of the desired reservation, none of her selections had room for us. In one case no reservations would be taken till July. I was chided for my carelessness with the familiar eyerolling sigh of “mohommm!”  She came up with a new batch of restaurants and this time I was decisive. She got us a table online instantaneously – it will be a celebratory dinner with no regard for cost – making a first dent into my severance package.

Today it was teeth cleaning day. It is not usually a topic I describe in my blog because it is not interesting, but today it was. My dental hygienist greeted me with great enthusiasm – her sister’s name was Sylvia, though written like this Szilvia. I guessed, based on how her name was embroidered on her smock (Krysztina) that she was Tsech or Hungarian. Yes, the latter. She spoke with a strong accent and before I knew it, encouraged by my questions, I learned about her journey as a high school grad from Hungary to being a dental hygienist in Beverly MA, with a first stopover in England in the early 90s, when such a thing was not as common as it is now thanks to the Euro zone.

When she learned about my travels she wanted to know if I had learned to travel light (I do and she doesn’t). She interrogated me like a detective to get my secrets (how many outfits, shoes? And what about layers?).

It’s hard to respond to such a barrage of questions when you are in a dentist chair. For one, there is stuff in your mouth, but I also didn’t hear her questions very well. There are all the different noises a dentist office produces, my hearing is no longer what it used to be and then there was her accent. At one point she asked me (I thought) how often I fly. I said about 9 times a year. But what she had really asked me how often I flossed and was rather nonplussed at my answer. “Huhh, 9 times a year? I have never heard anyone say that before.” We soon cleared up the confusion and had a good laugh. I think she will probably remember that I floss 9 times a year. I used to do it only twice a year, just before and just after my dentist visit; nine times would have been pretty good, about once every 6 weeks.

Doors closing and opening

After a sleepless night at the very last row of the plane, I am now in Paris in the K-hall lounge, dizzy with sleep. I was too late to get the complimentary face massage from Clarins – all 20 minute sessions booked for the morning. I probably would have gone to sleep. One has to get in on the first flight in the morning to get a slot it seems. Word has spread about this nice part of the lounge experience.

I am trying to use up my global upgrades that Delta offers to its frequent flyers. All four of them go ‘poof’ at the end of September. I am waitlisted and competing for three open seats in B-class to Boston- calling on the powers in the universe to get one of those.

The same boss who gave me the news of the termination of my position has now resigned herself to take up a post in Geneva. She is leaving a week before me. Strange how things can change on a dime – and probably a good thing we don’t have a crystal ball.

I am drawing on my daughters’ experience with rate setting and contracting – it’s a new world for me and I want to start it right – no regrets later, oh I wished I had…But it is causing some anxiety,

Of the three jobs that I thought I had in my pocket just weeks after I had been notified of my departure from MSH two have been cancelled already. I will not go to Saudi Arabia (hoping for next year) and I will not teach an online OB class this summer for Simmons College (not enough registrations). Only the very brief Japan trip in September is on.  I have been given the go ahead to buy my ticket.

Each time a door closes another one opens. Soon after the cancellation of the Saudi project I was invited to compete for a contract of an organization MSH has partnered with and competed with in the past.  And within a day of learning about the Simmons cancellation a former colleague who now works elsewhere in the global health space has approached me about a gig in Senegal. This is my new reality – welcome says Axel as he’s been there. The question now is, how many days of the year do I actually want to work? And do I want to continue going to hot and dusty places, leaving beautiful Lobster Cove during the best months of the year?

Rallies, rupture and selfies

Political rallies were announced the other day for Friday. I knew this before I heard about them locally because I received several emails warning me. The previous rally had turned bad with several people wounded, and enraged more people, so more rallies are in the making. The emails reminded me to not go to these rallies and take pictures. I wasn’t planning to – but I had one more assignment in my scope of work that required another trip across town to a state agency I was supposed to work with. When I learned this morning that it was not a good idea to travel across town on Friday, especially since more spontaneous demonstrations could develop, and also that all the people in the agency that could make decisions about governance were all at some rally in Mopti, I decided to change my flight home.

My colleague was amazed I could actually arrange this in about 10 minutes – he had discouraged me to even try. But I was motivated – the heat and the food arrangements had started to get to me, and there was nothing else to do. Spending another day in my hotel room sitting in front of my computer was simply not appealing anymore. I had done too much of that already.

My reports written and reviewed, we made one more trip across town to see progress on the manual (and there was, quite significantly, and not ‘de la literature!’). The roundtrip once again took over two hours (heat, filth), while I was munching on ‘beschuit’ and drinking oral rehydration liquids – to replace lost fluids and avoid upsetting my stomach again (unfortunately mangoes were no recommended foods).

I returned to my hotel to pack, get cash (credit card machines never work here), pay my bill, say goodbye on Skype to my US-based boss who is leaving MSH tomorrow and sort out some administrative stuff. The driver picked me up early to go to a communal breaking of the fast (‘la rupture’) at a fancy Bamako hotel – I was invited to partake in the meal before he would take me to the airport. I had some simple communal meal in mind, like we had last week at the zoo/conference center but I was wrong. Everyone was in their best and most colorful outfits, white and light blue for the men and all colors of the rainbow for the women. The setting was an impressive buffet, all manners of dishes and delicacies. Here I was in my travel clothes, but warmly welcomed by colleagues I had never met. We sat around the table waiting for the sign that the fast for the day was over.

There was some comparing of smartphone clocks before a round of kinkeliba tea was served and the dates were passed around.  People had told me that, this far into the month of fasting (it’s over next week) people had gotten used to not eating from 5AM till 7PM and their stomachs had shrunk. And so I expected people to put small portions on their plates. Not so. First they piled their plates high up with rolls, beignets, mini pizzas, pain au chocolat and such. Then they filled up plate after plate with stews, skewers, fried potatoes, couscous, and then there was desert. If this is restrained eating, then I wonder what regular eating is. Actually, I kind of know.

And now I am at the airport, watching two teenage girls preen and posture to continuously improve their selfies. It’s kind of entertaining to watch. They don’t seem to get tired of looking at themselves, try out new poses. Smartphones have democratized style and beauty – anyone with looks can now be a glamour girl, pretend to be on a magazine cover that is her own phone.

Garbage and other unmentionables

On Monday I started the second part of my assignment, working with an impressive Malian NGO that is getting ready to take over the functions of our project, which means instead of us, they will be assisting other less advanced NGOs to get their organizational management and governance in order. For them to do this they have to get their own house in order and this means, among other things, bringing their governance practices up to American standards – they hope to get American tax dollars in due time to help them pay for their assistance to others. The senior leadership team participated in last week workshop and now they are getting their governance manual together – something they realized was lacking.

We had given them a generic outline of what a governance manual needs to contain. They immediately set to work, very systematically – see what they had, someplace, and what they did not. They asked us for advice on these missing pieces and we asked them a bunch of questions, such as, how do people get on or off the board, what requirements are there, who votes and how, etc. It’s a big task that, with the French tendency to write literature whatever they do, required some nudging towards conciseness and simplicity.

The NGO is across town and it took a full hour to get from where we are to where they are; straight through the congested market, narrows streets blocked by 18 wheelers filled with yams or potatoes or onions and the smaller camions, carts and strong lean men that take the wares to other parts of the vast market. And where there is a market there is waste. A huge and horrendous garbage pile sits right at the edge of the market and next to a residential/commercial district. Garbage pickers are pushing their way through the mess to discover treasure – kids barefoot, skinny women and men. I could not look at the scene.  Onwards we went through lots of potholed or unpaved streets lined by various small scale commercial enterprises. The town is filthy beyond filthy – I remember times when it was not, or maybe my memory fails me.  But we certainly produce more filth because there are more people and more cars and no one fixes anything it seems. One wonders about city government – it appears to be entirely absent. One also wonders what urban planners are doing – there must we at least some. But as my colleague says, the only way to get something done or get away with not doing something is to pay someone off. It’s a thriving side business for countless people I suspect.

Back in the office, another hour later, my colleagues sent for a sandwich from a local sandwich shop, a beef shawarma. It tasted delicious and so I didn’t notice right away that something was amiss. But by the time I was dropped off at the hotel I didn’t feel that well, and after that I was up all night trying to get rid of whatever toxins I had ingested. I didn’t sleep a wink and called in sick the next day. There was no way I was going to endure two more hours in traffic and driving by the garbage heap without some form of physical upheaval.  The combination of very high temperatures, food not being consumed during the day because of Ramadan and the regular power outages made for a perfect intestinal storm. I bought oral rehydration salts (a gift from the American people, our project logo on the box, bought by retailers at a subsidized price and selling for 45% over the price advertised on the box. From the American People for the American People. It got me back on my feet.

A Sunday outing

Today my Quebecois friends told me at breakfast he was not feeling well and would not join me, and so I went by myself. I asked the taxi man (we are now considered friends because I pay him well and I negotiate only a little) whether he was willing to accompany me in the park, since I had no idea what the park was like and decided having a male companion might be a wise thing. He reluctantly agreed. At first I thought it was because of the entrance fee and I told him quickly I’d pay for him. Later I realized it wasn’t that (only). He is fasting and it was over 90 degrees and on such days most people just stay quietly in a cool place, like under a tree. Instead I dragged him around the park and up a hill and then to visit the neighboring zoo. I usually don’t like to visit zoos in developing countries because they are too sad, but people told me this zoo was very nice and the animals well cared for. This turned out to be true.

I was kind of excited when we arrived at the chimpanzees, the very few animals that were actually visible. He kept saying how human they looked – they are like us, look at their hand and feet, he kept saying. I told him they were our ancestors and that we looked a lot more like them some 200.000 years ago. He looked at me in disbelief, you mean before Jesus? Yes, long before Jesus I told him.

We also stopped by the lions – it was like one of those ‘Where is Waldo’ pictures – the guard told us there were 9 lions in the very large lion enclosure – we looked and searched and found about 6 of them, the rest hidden in shady places. The enclosure has a fence around it that seemed adequate but my driver got obsessed with people falling over. You’d have to be very dedicated to falling into the enclosure, said the guard, but my driver thought it would be easy; and then, I could see his mind running away, the lions would eat you. I told him that I’d thought the lions looked rather well fed and would probably not eat him, probably just sniff and then walk away, but he was convinced he’d be a goner. Most of the lions in Mali are gone now – killed. My driver told me that this was normal as the people who killed the lion would otherwise have been killed. He was clearly preoccupied with the killing nature of the lions.

Since most animals were asleep and/or out of sight we retraced our steps back down to the park and then to the museum. He declined my invitation into the museum where I hoped it would be cool. It was now the hottest part of the day.

The museum is small and could use some display help but the textile exhibit was nice. The old and new videos of traditional practices and rituals that accompanied the collection of masks, were interesting but I didn’t stay very long as the temperature inside was only slightly lower than outside.

I was beginning to visualize myself sitting at a lovely restaurant terrace looking out over the Niger with a large bottle of cold water and a glass of very cold dry rose. Since that part of the trip had not been negotiated the night before there was a little more haggling before I found myself exactly as imagined at the Brasserie Badala. Looking out over the slowly moving Niger River, seated under an umbrella that sprayed a fine mist of water every minute over the tables, I had the glass of ice cold dry rose, a bottle of water (I drank all 1.5 liter during my meal) and a salade nicoise before heading home. The combination of heat and rose wine called for a nap. And now, even though the day is fading, the temperature is still at 97 degrees, suggesting an afternoon swim.

Knowing Truth and the taxi man

Last night I went out with the two Dutch guys who are lodged at the hotel and my Quebec friend joined us at the last minute – a good thing. It reminded me why, all these years ago, I traded in my Dutch husband for an American one. There is something about the Dutch I meet abroad that irritates me. They know everything, they have an opinion about everything (with particularly strong opinions about the US) and they are always right. This I have come to associate especially with Dutch men (former husband included) – although of course I know others, not Dutch, who exhibit some of these traits.

My new Dutch acquaintances are here to work on security issues with the Dutch embassy. They are military men, seconded by the ministry of defense. They are sent all over the world to deal with threats. They just came from Kabul, so we had something to talk about. When I mentioned I had lived in two powder keg places (Lebanon and Afghanistan) I was told that there is a more serious one I had not mentioned: the Sahara/southern Libya/northern Mali and Niger powder keg. That’s why they were here – but they couldn’t say much other that they dealt with ‘special’ stuff. One has been an air marshal in the past. I have never met an air marshal as they fly incognito, but I know they are always on my plane. And so I got to ask the question I always wanted to ask an air marshal: don’t they want something to happen, on these long boring rides, see some action? He laughed but I didn’t get my answer. I think such information is not be made public on a blogsite no doubt.

I had negotiated a price for taking us to a lovely restaurant, just a tad too far to walk. My compatriots, upon hearing what I had negotiated laughed and said I had been suckered into much too a high a price. And then they started to talk about a bad experience they had had with the same driver earlier in the week and how they told him, basically, to go screw himself, implying basically that I was naive. I told him that I had no problem overpaying a bit (it still is small change for me, and surely for them) because the end of Ramadan feast is approaching and everyone needs money and that I didn’t feel I had been taken for a ride. They had some faint excuse that they were here on the Dutch taxpayers account and that therefore they should pay as little as possible (this did not apply to meals and drinks of course). I told them they should take another taxi if they didn’t want to contribute to his overpriced fare. In the end we all piled into the taxi but I noticed an icy silence from the otherwise talkative driver.

When we returned from a fabulous dinner they hesitated about contributing to the fare. I waved them off, no need to waste Dutch taxpayer money on a poorly negotiated deal (a waft of Trump?). But they did contributed something in the end.  The taxi man was very agitated and waited until they had disappeared through the hotel security gates, and then, with only my Quebecois friend and me in attendance started to rant about how they had treated him. He was visibly shaken but I told him I didn’t want to hear anything about his experiences with them and that we were negotiating with him on our terms, a bit more favorable to him. We hired him to take us to the national park, the zoo and museum for a Sunday outing. He agreed as long as it was not with them. I am sure the price we negotiated was ridiculous in the eye of our Dutch military men – but it what fine with us, from the North American continent, proving their general disdain for anything (north)american.

Along the road

Roadside advertisements here are of a kind that I don’t think you’d see in the US anymore. I think they may have been common in the 60s and 70s, but advertisers probably wouldn’t get away with them nowadays, at least not in the US or Europe. But here all is up for grabs. Advertising that alcohol consumption makes you smart and successful (la bière de la réussite), or that sugar is good for you. One billboard for a line of sugary sodas shows a young boy kid picking up the front end of a small truck with one hand while holding the sugary drink in his other; or there is the one billboard that encourages people to ‘find the lion inside you’ advertising a line of candy. Of course now, because of Ramadan, many billboards wish people a blessed Ramadan showing happy beautiful people drinking or eating specific products, including one of a family eating in front of a Shell station (Shell wishes you…). And women empowerment is not forgotten either: Maggi reminding people that every woman who uses Maggi in her cooking is a Star.

This morning during my morning jog on the treadmill I listened to an NPRs Hidden Brain podcast (This Is Your Brain On Ads) about how ads to which one was exposed at an early age hold sway over anything that the intelligent grown up now knows is nonsense or plain wrong, like nutritious breakfast that consist for 80% of sugar. But those were advertised to the innocent and credulous young mind, with the help of cartoon characters. The message got engraved somewhere deep in our brain and trumps everything we know to be true.

Large electronic billboards are also starting to emerge. They are quite common in the big cities in Asia and I had seen them in Kenya (not always working properly), but last night I saw the best one ever. It is permanently displayed on the main drag near my hotel. It says (most visible at night) in English, in large white on black letters:

  • Mouse not found
  • Keyboard not found
  • Fatal error
  • System suspended

It is a frightening message if you don’t know what these words mean.

But the best thing I saw today was the man with a plastic bag that has the picture and name of our previous president on it. He is still on people’s screen. The plastic bag is also, unfortunately, made with chemicals that don’t dissolve in a hundred years, so his picture will be around a bit until the bag starts to fray as it flaps in the wind from trees or fences, along with the millions of black plastic bags that dot the landscape. This way even our honorable last president will eventually contribute to clogged drains. The Rwandan president did well to ban plastic bags (you are told upon landing in Kigali to leave all plastic bags on the plane). But here it looks like such political will is not on the horizon yet, especially if the current president gets his way and stays on beyond his mandate. Malians are protesting many other things the current administration is not doing, and maybe plastic bags are not quite up there with things like the economy, security and transparency.

Waiting for our daily bread

Every morning it’s the same ritual. Breakfast is at 7, but the bread arrives usually at 7:30, so I learn and go to the refectory at 7:30. But this morning the bread was late because of a big rainstorm that hung over us for most of the night. Rain is badly wanted here but it also disrupts things, especially where roads are not paved and/or the drainage system can’t manage the abundance of water.

And so we sit with the handful of people who are not fasting waiting for bread. It sounds nearly biblical. They are not fasting because they are too old to fast or they are Christians or have some other reason. One of our staff has just returned from maternity leave. She is breastfeeding. I was surprised to see her fast. Apparently she has tested whether she can fast, and she decided she can. It’s hard to imagine in this hot weather to deprive oneself not just of food but of water. I wonder whether the baby is getting condensed milk.

This morning the contents for the bread were eggs, pre-fried. It’s better than spam. But now there is also every morning butter and jam for me, because I asked for it on spam day.

One of the ladies (it’s mostly women who are not fasting) starts to speak in English and the topic turn to language, one of my favorite topics. English is now taught as early as Kindergarten. Still, French remains problematic because most parents speak the local language with their children and it is only in school that they speak French. I proudly brag of my Chinese speaking grandson. Soon the intention to speak English disappears, it is too difficult and one cannot have the conversation I would like to have over breakfast. We return to French and many return to Bambara.

One of the women has a bag full of the menthol throat lozenges that I remember from my childhood; they are grey candies in red celophane wrappers, disguised as medicine. The bag is handed around and the women drop a couple of the lozenges in their tea – sugar and mint, all in one, while we contiue waiting for our daily bread.

Smart, safe and subordination

A smartly dressed young man joined us yesterday. He recognized me, though I did not recognize him. He was at the lunch seminar I gave last September about the neuroscience of coaching and amygdala hijacks. We re-introduced ourselves. He is in charge of security and came to check out whether we were secure. When a security chief shows up it worries me. I asked him whether there was any reason for concern – we are after all in Mali with its many groups of angry unhappy people who have easy access to money, drugs and arms, items that are circulating unencumbered in the vast ungoverned space of the Sahara. “No,” he said, “there are no concerns. It’s a routine mission.” He sat at the back of the room fiddling with cell phone and then left. His report will say, “the people are safe.”

The cellphone business is maddening. Some people check their phones (most now have two) frequently (“has anyone sent me a message or text since he last time I checked a minute ago?”). I have come to believe that there is a vast number of bored people – one half sends messages or text to anyone on their list, while the other half are the ones checking to see if anyone is talking with them. I can only surmise that they are bored; or, the one I am supposed to work with don’t understand what the task is, or who have enthusiastic colleagues who are doing the work for them. It can all be linked to confidence: they don’t dare to ask when they don’t understand, and they don’t want to risk exposing themselves by contributing the wrong things to a group task; alternatively, it’s us that don’t engage them enough, don’t create a safe space. The latter we can act on, the former we cannot.  The challenge is both infuriating and exciting at the same time. We have succeeded at least in getting everyone to open their mouth at least a few times – something my colleagues here were not sure would happen.

We have a few women in the room who were sent by their superiors – I suspect it was their turn to get per diem and a nice little vacation out of town, some sort of reward for something. We actually have completely the wrong people in the room, which confirms my suspicion. It’s a workshop on improving the effectiveness of governing boards but of the 26 people in the room less than a handful are actually board members, I believe there is only one executive director. The rest are mid-level staff. Hmmm. The people who write critical books about development (and are right) would say pull the plug. And then I feel just as underpowered as everyone else, when I say, “I can’t,” or “it’s not my call.” I did express my wonderment, but that is easy.

There is one group of 8 people from a semi-governmental structure who are several layers removed from their non-functional board. They didn’t know that there is a draft board handbook. I told them I had it on my computer and transferred it per flash drive. It’s a draft I reviewed two years ago. Nothing has happened with it since. It can’t be finalized until it is validated – a critical process required for just about any document produced in francophone organizations, state or non-state. A draft in limbo for so long is, in my view, missing an owner. It was created by a consultant we hired. So there you go.

The group (not a team although we call them that) also didn’t know that my terms of reference say I will be working with them a half day next Friday (Fridays during Ramadan are essentially half days). The information sent to the chief had apparently stayed in his inbox. It was a bit awkward when I told them enthusiastically that I was going to work with them next week and received 8 blank stares. The problem here is that people don’t feel they can simply go to the chief and say, “hey, why didn’t you tell us.” The idea itself is frightful judging from the response.

I am also supposed to work with another of the groups here next week (four whole days). This group includes its CEO and two board members. It is an NGO that is not dependent on any higher structure, other than its Board. Still, once again my mentioning of next week got me blank stares – the CEO had just stepped out of the room. He too had not passed the message; when he came back in they did dare to mention what I had said and he looked worried, asking me about the dates (these were communicated). He frowned and said that tying up his staff for four whole days might be problematic. I could imagine it would. For a brief moment I thought I could go home earlier, but our team leader stepped in and sorted things out. I am not going home earlier.


February 2026
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