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Our hotel is the strangest structure. I constantly lose my way as I walk from our meeting room to restaurant. There are narrows passages and uneven levels, floor one on the left is at a different level than floor one on the right. There are meeting rooms everywhere, and workshops going on in some of them.

As for the structure itself, it is as if someone dropped a bunch of concrete pillars and walls from the heavens, covered everything with a sticky substance and then threw a collection of tiles of every color and size over the result.  Or, and this is more likely, it was a small hotel that discovered there was money in hosting training events, and kept adding halls. Everywhere are citations or bible verses in haut relief inscribed on the walls. I live under ‘God will protect you.’

It is definitely not a structure that is friendly to people with physical disabilities. And yet we have one such a person in the group. He is a hospital manager who walks with great difficulty using two crutches, one leg useless for walking. Since I have been working with ICRC I am very much aware how rarely buildings are designed to accommodate people with physical disabilities. And this makes it hard for some groups to participate. But participate he does, climbing all the crooked stairs, three levels up clutching his crutches and his briefcase. We started to talk about my work with ICRC and the people I worked with, what I learned from that. He was pleased. I promised to introduce him to the chief of the Paralympic Committee in Niger.

The first night I discovered the restaurant where we are served breakfast was dark. I returned to my room – everyone had disappeared someplace. I lived that night on a banana and a bag of almonds. The next morning I found out there was another restaurant at the entrance to the hotel which I had not noticed before. I went downstairs and sat down – the TVs were, as usual, showing football matches and one man was watching. It quickly became clear that it was not the kind of restaurant where one sits down and is served, even though it looked like it was. I should have ordered food at lunch time and then it would be served in my room. If I did not want to eat in my room I would have sat there for at least an hour, all by myself, and watch football or some mother sketchy program on TV. I thought I had ordered something simple, grilled chicken and a tomato salad. One hour and a half later the food was served in my room.

Just in time

There was no time to rest. After the short flight (from Amsterdam to Paris), a stop in Paris and the connecting flight to Abidjan I arrived in my hotel late Sunday evening. I was able to negotiate a chef salad with the two remaining servers in the empty restaurant where the lights had already dimmed. I think they were willing to serve me because there were two giant screens with football (soccer) matches going on. They watched while I ate the leftover meats and cheeses from breakfast and lunch served on a bed of iceberg lettuce. The best part of the meal was the mustard mayonnaise, which I ate right out of the bowl.

I was picked up at 6:30AM by our driver to take me to a regional capital some 100 KM to the north of Abidjan, to arrive just in time for the training of trainers’ workshop that would start at 8:30AM. Getting out of the city at this time of the day requires navigating endless traffic jams. We arrived about 8:30AM and found the team at breakfast.

Luckily I knew most of the 12 or so people in the group. I had trained some of them several years ago and watched them perform earlier this year, to my great delight. I had effectively passed the baton, at least to some of them.

I had rearranged the two-day program earlier to consist mostly of un-programmed time so that we could practice simulate parts of the governance workshop and practice. This turned out to be good intuition and the facilitators grew in confidence in front of my eyes.

Our Cote d’Ivoire project team always arranges for a brief training of trainers before any event. They have done this for years, more so than in any other place I have worked. As a result there is now a considerable pool of confident and experienced facilitators who do the work I used to do. Now I limit myself to introducing new techniques and methodologies which they absorb like sponges.

The event for which we were preparing was a governance workshop for representatives of Community Management structures (COGES) tasked with the oversight of the district hospitals. The adoption of practices of good governance is something of great importance here. The challenge is to reduce the gap between words and deeds when it comes to good governance. The gap is big.

Reunion

Our group of women were about the last from a period when the men’s and the women’s clubs had separate existences, separate buildings and separate governance bodies before the two clubs merged in the early seventies. My sister who completed her studies in Leiden before the merger, was never part of the new ‘mixed’ club that was named Minerva.  Only the women who joined after the merger were invited. As a result we were a tiny minority standing out in our colored clothes amidst a sea of dark suits.

The women’s building that we inhabited before the merger was an elegant house on Leiden’s main canal – but it was clear the men could not move in with us. And so we ended up moving into the men’s building, a large, hideous and indestructible building, reeking of beer (and cigars in the olden days) on the main drag of Leiden.

We had decided to enter the large room together, there is force in numbers. At the coat check some older men looked at us with, what I assumed to be a question mark on their head (‘what are these women doing here?’) or made awkward jokes about ‘shouldn’t we have separate places for men’s and women’s coats?”

We had agreed to join the men for the cocktail hour. After all some of the men from our year (or just above) were no strangers; we had studied together, we were related (like me),  some had husbands, ex husbands or boyfriends in that group, or we had served together on committees. After the noise levels had deafened us enough and our voices became raw from trying to get ourselves heard over the din, we left to dine together in the intimacy of a small elegant restaurant in town – the opposite in all aspects of where the men were congregating. It was a most exquisite restaurant (‘Puur’) which I promptly gave a five star review on Tripadvisor.

 

Leiden memory lane

I left on the 3rd to fly to Holland to be at a reunion of friends I studied with. My showing up from afar pulled in others who would otherwise not have come. The occasion was the annual reunion of people who had joined the student clubs during a period that included 1971, when I had started my studies.

I flew in a very full plane to Amsterdam. The plane was so full that people were offered money to give up their seat in a clever reversed auction system – you bid an amount you want Delta to give you in order to give up your seat. You can ask for $100, $200 or even propose you own amount.  The approach is full of delicious anticipation, possibly followed by disappointment.

On long trips we are allowed to overnight in Europe, a perk I never use since my trips are often too close together. But this time the timing was perfect. I reserved a small hotel close to the action in Leiden. It is funny that people who go to Holland always want to go to Amsterdam while the provincial cities are so much more pleasant, as interesting and much less a tourist trap.

As it turned out the hotel was a tiny (5 room) boutique hotel on Leiden’s main canal, where the original university still stands. I was given the room under the roof in a beautifully restored old ‘grachtenhuis’ (canal house) that was probably built in the 1600s. The hotel was even nicer than I had imagined from the already very nice webpages. I gave it a five star review on Tripadvisor.

The room wasn’t ready when I arrived early in the morning and so I missed the chance to take a little nap or even shower and change before my brother and sister in law came to pick me. They had organized a nice side trip that included a visit to a delightful museum in Wassenaar (Voorlinden) I had heard about. It is located in one of the old mansions in the, a wealthy suburb of Den Haag, the former home of a wealthy art collector, now open to the public.

Afterwards we visited my nephew and his young family in Den Haag for tea and catching up. And then it was time to go back to Leiden to my charming little hotel which I was anxious to show my brother. There we would meet up with another friend before going to the festivities that had triggered the stop in Leiden in the first place.

New routines

I arrived home on a near perfect Indian summer day, but the swimming days were over. This left as the only option the joining of a fitness club to keep up the swimming that had so become a part of my daily routine. I joined the Manchester Athletic Club. Axel is already a member but doesn’t use it much, preferring yoga at the gentler local Yoga studio – no bulky sweating men or women there.

As part of the membership orientation one gets a fully evaluation by a fitness professional. It was fun and very interesting. I had earlier embarked on a significant lifestyle change which I was able to maintain during my travels in West Africa: more exercise, more walking (no elevator use wherever there are elevators) and eating only what I need rather than what I want – at least when in hotels where breakfast buffets were probably responsible for my average weight gain of 5 pounds per trip.

I experienced what people who are exercising regularly have always told me: at first it is a bit of a chore – shall I ride my stationary bike at home or do some I find more enjoyable. Now that has changed – I look forward to the routines and miss it when I cannot.

In less than two weeks I will fly out again. The suitcase remained open and ready – I will be going back to West Africa for my last work trip this year.

Easy as pie

The nice Air France people at the Niamey airport shifted me one class up from the back of the bus to the mini B-class that the French call Premium Class. It is not B-class but it is nice enough, with slightly more space than the cramped coach seats.

I sat next a man from Texas who was on his way home.  He has a job with a USG contractor that has him on a rotation of two months in Niger and one month home. He was a pilot but he didn’t fly in an aircraft. This made me conclude that he was a drone pilot. He did not respond enthusiastically to my curious questioning and so I stopped.

From the size of the enormous US embassy that is being constructed out of unassailable materials on the banks of the Niger River, I gathered that the American Government is not planning to leave Niger any time soon. The Saudis, the French, the Algerians, the Malians and the Chinese, in a kind of Embassy armed concrete race, are also building, expanding or reinforcing their enormous fortresses, on prime real estate spots in the same area.  Being a construction company with influence and access must be a goldmine.

The four American servicemen who died here – widely reported in the international media here, but apparently not in the US – and the subsequent spats between Kelly, Trump and McCain, have put Niger and our operations on the map.  For Americans, awakened to this news, over a week after it happened,  what the men were doing there in that far away spot, was apparently a surprise. It is hard to imagine that the Head of the Armed Services Committee knew less than the guy downstairs selling souvenirs in the hotel’s lobby.

I had a feeling that my Premium Classe neighbor was not too keen on talking and so I stopped asking questions. We each pulled our eye shades down and went to sleep, it was after midnight anyways.

I slept a few hours. The flight is short and one ends up missing a night no matter what one does. That I was tired became clear when I couldn’t find my passport and boarding pass after spending a few hours in the AF lounge. As it turned out I had left both in the shower. At least I knew I had them when I entered the shower. I got a lecture from the stern looking lady at the desk when she handed me my passport – as if I didn’t know that I should keep my passport with me at all time. I felt a bit sheepish, looking at my toes during the lecture.

I had used the last of my four international upgrades that Delta hands to its very frequent flyers. This made the final leg of the trip very pleasant. I finished my audiobook on Seeds, caught up on coaching class homework, read a bit (Sue Monk), and tackled a 1024 piece puzzle on my iPad.

Delta now lets its passengers use a text app, like WhatsApp or Viber, during the flight for free. I was able to chat with Axel while in the air. I was also able to announce my arrival to the US Customs and Border Patrol using the handy Mobile Passport App, also from the air. It took less than 5 minutes from getting off the plane into the arms of Axel. Boston’s Logan Airport is the best and only airport in the world where arrival is easy as pie.

Time to go

On the way back to Niamey we met a father and daughter; the daughter supports a school in Zinder, for boys and girls from various villages in the region. We had flown out with them and then saw them at the hospital. We had learned from the hospital director that they were related to a late French president, bearing his name. We had fun using our smartphones to figure out their precise relationship with the late president. A few searches on the internet and we knew who they were; in fact we knew a lot more about them then they could have imagined. We checked out the family tree, and then pictures until we figured out their precise relationship with the late president. And then we went over to meet them and had a nice conversation in the waiting room, and then in the plane, sitting next to each other. We learned about the school and how they had set it up, keeping girls from getting engaged at the age of 12, staying in school, the negotiations…and then the pride when the first batch got their Bac. I thought of Razia Jan.

The networking immediately had its effects: they needed a physical therapist for one of the girls in their school and my colleague was able to connect them to a PT in Niamey. It helps to be extraverts and have done one’s research.  And then at the airport, we meet again, waiting for the plane to Paris. We would be sharing our third plane ride in a week.

I went for a very long swim which was both cleansing and meditative after our trip home from Zinder. The flight is not long (2 hours) but with all the waiting it takes a good part of the day; and there is always the sand, the dust. I ordered a large plate with fruit. Our diet at the guesthouse in Zinder had gotten a bit stale after three days: tough and stringy chicken – served the same way no matter what we ordered from the limited menu, and only cabbage, onions and a few carrots under the heading of ‘vegetables.’  We were never served fruit, even though I did see giant papayas in the market. There are few products that are grown locally such as watermelon, melon, papaya and giant pumpkins, cabbage, onions, potatoes but not a whole lot more. Pineapple, bananas, oranges, apples, grapes are all imported, either from the coastal countries south of Niger, South Africa or Morocco.

Every morning we were served a greasy 3-egg omelet with onions, and then there was Nescafe. That too had gotten a bit stale. After my swim I splurged and ordered the pricey Nespression as it is called here.

In the evening my friend from long ago picked me up and, once again, took me to the restaurant that doesn’t serve African meals. It was the security that made her decide not to go local. People here are worried about what is happening in Mali; as if to justify their worries, another attack took place this morning a little to the west of Niamey, again, near the Malian border – Niger’s Wild West.

On Saturday I called the one person I had missed seeing at our reunion in the basement of the stadium with the team that had reactivated the center in Zinder. When we started the leadership program they had picked that as their ‘project’ – it was inactive despite salaries being paid – but no patients.

She brought me to her home that was heavily guarded. Her husband is the minister of finance and she is third highest in another ministry; I was moving around in high circles – yet she was quite down to earth. I met two of her 6 children and learned she was widowed when the last one was born. She had remarried many years later and now has a guard in front of her house. She too is afraid of what is happening in Mali, and told me ‘when Mali has a cold we sneeze here in Niger.’ She too was unnerved by the attack this morning. I promptly received one alert (level 3) and then another with a level 4 alert.

It is strange that suddenly Niger is on America’s map. People now know there are soldiers here who die because there are many very bad people hiding in the Sahara, where there are no borders and lots of weapons. I guess it is time to go.

Patient flow

The young girl with the pretty shoe has returned, this time with her papa and grandma. It is the second testing of her new leg.  It takes a while to put it on.

I asked if I could take some pictures. Grandma said no, but the girl, looking for permission from dad, nods yes.  She puts the leg on herself, not yet an easy thing to do. She then walks hesitantly between the two even exercise bars places in the middle of the room.

The motto at this hospital is ‘the patient is the center of our attention.’ It is a slogan but I don’t really see that here. The chief of the center, who is preoccupied with preparing for her trainer’s role later this morning, is not paying much attention to the girl and her father. Maybe I am the center of attention, and pleasing me is what counts. I hope not but it is very possible. I suggest she helps the girl put the prosthetic on correctly, as the first walk did not go well.

The (international) ICRC expert takes a look and shows her how to make the knee lock and unlock on her own. It is all about learning to do things for oneself, he says. Patients are not served if we do things for them. He then watches and corrects her gait and shows how her steps are of uneven length. He draws lines on the floor with a marker to show where her shoes should be at every step, toes one way, heels on the way back. He is very involved with her (the patient in the middle), unlike any of the other staff of the center.  I see that the challenges are not only managerial but also a lack of understanding of what the slogan (focus on patient) really means in terms of one’s behavior. Later I also discover that technical competence to diagnose and treat, is very limited.

Another man comes in, he has diabetes and lost his foot – he is waiting to make a plaster form of his stump but I am told this cannot be done and he has to come back, because Tuesdays are plaster days, not Thursdays. He is accompanied by the only physiotherapist in the hospital; the one whose only staff consists of two blind PT aides. I learn later that all they can really do is massages, as a blind person is of little use to check a person’s gait.

It is busy today because it is market day. In the past there were sometimes only 2 or 3 patients per months. Now I am seeing three all at once. With the help of ICRC the place is taking off. The man for whom the large prosthetic was made shows up and with great ease put on his new leg and walks away to practice outside. He is far ahead of the young girl, making her first awkward steps.

More are coming: a 4 year old girl riding on the back of her mom. She sustained some minor brain damage at birth and walks with difficulty, her foot arches collapsed. The mother gives a small sandal to the assistant. She was told an orthotic would help. My ICRC colleague says she needs PT. Another woman comes with a baby on her back that had his clubfeet corrected. For the next few years he has to sleep with a metal bar with shoes attached that will ensure his bones grow properly. At four years old no one will be able to tell he was born with clubfeet. This is the specialty of CURE hospital here.

Showtime

Today we have planned the second module of our Leadership Program, the same as last week in Niamey. The program was supposed to start at 11AM in the main conference room but when we went there to set things up we could not enter. The DG, faced with an impromptu visit from the labor union, has requisitioned the room. It took at a while to figure out where to go. Several department chiefs offered their conference rooms. Everywhere cleaners were dispatched to clean these rooms. In the meantime we waited under a tree for instructions on where to go, while the temperature rose and rose. Lethargy swept over the hospital. Everywhere people were sleeping on mats, on chairs, or simply on the ground.

A very young girl arrived with her parents – she walked with a limp. The PT happened to be there and he asked the girl to pull up her skirt and walk. She too was the victim of an injection gone awry. Luckily, he told me later, exercises will be able to correct her posture and get rid of the limp.

Our team here spent a good deal of yesterday and this morning preparing, writing their flipcharts in large script, running out of space, having to do it over again – drawing a schematic several times until they get it right.

We practiced the visioning session – where people have to draw their vision of the center. Dj. is utterly stumped. Eventually she draws a kind of architectural plan of the new (dream) center, with some difficulty. I explain how individual visions are shared and then turned into a shared vision. It is such a novel concept. Luckily this session is facilitated by the young ICRC program assistant who is now the master trainer. He has done this module last week in Niamey. I see him grow in confidence in front of my eyes. He is now helping his co-trainer to prepare and become more confident.

I asked her to rate her level of confidence on a 10 point scale. After some hesitance she says ‘in the middle.’ When I insist on a number she says ‘a 7.’ I ask her what it will take to move to an ‘8.’  She utters a few clichés, like ‘become more confident, ‘have ‘sangfroid,’ ‘get out of my comfort zone,’ while I keep asking ‘but how?’  I keep hoping she says ‘through preparation,’ but she doesn’t and so finally I utter the word. ‘Oh, yes, of course she says, ‘preparation!’

The young ICRC assistant is also the logistician, organizing handouts, materials and something to eat and drink during a brief lunch break. I love how he says, ‘pas de souci,’  because I know he is right; I need not worry because he has taken care of things. He is reliable and honest, now he needs to learn to speak more audibly and with more confidence.

We just learned that we have seats on the UNHAS flight tomorrow. I had been a little nervous about that given our delayed flight coming out. With UNHAS nothing is guaranteed and one knows only 24 hours in advance whether the trip is on or not.  The only alternative to flying is a 14 hour bus ride that starts at 4AM in Zinder and arrives early evening in Niamey. That is, if all goes well, ‘incha’allah’ they say here, because life is full of surprises and unexpected turns of events, and God only knows (and wills).

A hard life

We had a nice local lunch (rice with a tomato-peanut sauce) in another guesthouse. This is the place, I was told, where the very humble and no-fuss American ambassadress likes to stay when she tours the country. My ICRC colleagues have traveled with her (“she is like Condoleeza Rice,” which I took to mean that she is an African American). “She didn’t even want to wait in the VIP room at the airport, and she traveled with us in the UN plane, on a regular seat like everyone!” they exclaimed. This is of course not very African. When one has status one uses it. VIP salons, red carpets, news coverage, first class and front row seats, respect, especially respect, is what one gets when one is at the top.

We are not staying in this lovely guesthouse, a simple mudbrick structure with traditional decorations – so much more tasteful than our guesthouse, because of security concerns according to my ICRC colleague. I was surprised that the American embassy security people did not protest. At any rate, this I have learned in Afghanistan: if people want to blow you or your guesthouse up, no security detail can prevent it. The security at the guesthouse where we are staying didn’t strike me as all that much different or effective. In most countries I travel to, life is simply not safe. Period.

As if to illustrate this, I met a young woman and her grandmother at the rehab center. The girl had come back to try out her prosthetic leg which I had already seen  standing in a corner; a small left leg with a pretty shiny white shoe attached, a shoe with a gold clasp, a party shoe. It stood, somewhat incongruously, in a corner of the ‘walking school’ room, next to a giant leg that must be for a basketball player. The disembodied leg with its party shoe told a tragic story. The girl had been sick and received an injection. I remember from our days in Senegal that people there were great believers in injections and there was even a professional category of ‘injectionist.’  When people have a malaria attack they receive quinine injections twice a day – sometimes administered by people who do not know where the nerves run, or who use dirty needles. The injection can be put in the wrong place and lead to paralysis, irreversible, or cause an infection.

This girl had bad luck. The needle was probably dirty and caused an infection that was not treated. Eventually the entire leg had to be amputated. But it could also have been a traffic accident, or a simple household accident, or simply a small wound that gets infected as the climate is warm and the body is humid and bacteria love this combination. ‘So not necessary,’ I think, ‘so utterly not necessary.’ And yet, it’s what happens daily a thousand times over. And now I am not even talking about the self-inflicted wounds of armed conflict. Those people also show up. But that girl, that leg with the pretty shoe, it’s a haunting image.


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