Archive Page 37

Sixty-ish

The last afternoon in Abidjan I checked out a new ‘residence,’ because all the previous places we stayed were not good value for money. But this one was. I had a ‘studio americain’  which was more than good value for money. The place is near the office. There is an American dinner (the O’burger) and a patisserie around the corner. It also has things I never use such as a swimming pool, workout room. The best feature is the terrace on the 7th floor from where one can observe traffic jams in all directions, while sipping a dark rum or a ‘sex on the beach’ cocktail, underneath an artificial cherry tree which has blossoms that light up once the sun goes down (it does require electricity).

I finished my reports and packed up for our return trip to Paris first. The driver had called an hour before our agreed upon departure time that he was already waiting for us below. What he did not say is that he was waiting for us at the Ibis hotel that is on the other side of town. This we discovered when we were ready to go and he was not there. The mix up had us arrive at the airport a little later than we had planned, just about exactly the same time that all the other 1000 passengers arrived to fly to points north and east.

The plane was full again with babies; maybe they were the same babies as on the way out. Some slept, some cried and some did a bit of both. We left late which made for a mad dash to catch my flight to Amsterdam, requiring endless long walkways, a shuttle, check points and other obstacles.

I did not want to miss the flight since I had paid 140 Euro for a B-class upgrade, seduced by the words “offre spécial.” I thought it was special indeed; imagine that, an upgrade from Abidjan to Amsterdam for only 140 Euro! It was early in the morning, my brain not fully awake and my ignoring my intuition saying “too good to be true!”

It was of course. The upgrade I had just purchased was only for the 50 minute flight to Amsterdam. I got to the gate just when it was closing, the last person on board. I collapsed in my chair, a regular economy seat but with a guaranteed empty seat between me and the person at the window. The economy row in back of me also had only two people with one empty seat between them. And so there was nothing else to do then to enjoy my 140 Euro breakfast: a sliver of salmon, two pieces of (nice) cheese, a croissant with “fresh Brittany butter” and raspberry jam in its own little jar, a few spoonful’s of something in between yogurt and crème fraiche and a cup of coffee. I enjoyed every little bite and licked my fingers to not miss anything of my most expensive breakfast ever (the Meridien hotel in Dubai comes in second with a 75 dollar breakfast but it had a lot more going for it).

And then I was in Holland again. I took the train to my brother’s house, just in time to see him spent his last two days as someone who can still say he is in his sixties.

Le kilo

The 500-page French-language instruction manual for our leadership program is called ‘le kilo’ here in Cote d’Ivoire. It was a comment I believe I made three years ago when we started and I apologized for the hefty tome that we handed out to the would-be facilitators. We laughed about it. Now it has become simply a reference to the instruction guide; people use it with a straight face, no longer a joke, just a word for a thing. I had to laugh when, during the practicum, someone said, they didn’t use their ‘kilo.’ An outsider would not  understand what this referred  to.  One of the slogans in my current coaching course is ‘Words mean worlds.’ Indeed.

We had a full day of practicum sessions yesterday. Because the group is so large we have split in two. I am observing one region in one room and my counterpart is observing the other region in the room with the race track table.

The two regions are represented by, respectively, 8 and 6 district teams. The plan is that these district representatives, who are themselves participants in regional leadership training that is far advanced, take the program one level down. After this training each district team will conduct the leadership development program in their districts, much like the ones we observed last week in western Cote d’Ivoire.

The practice sessions I observed took place in a small room with four air conditioners that did not work very well. It was hot and humid, and in the afternoon, when the hot sun tried to get through the curtains and everyone was busy digesting a heavy lunch, the teams struggled. But this is the reality they will be operating in when they go back: seeing the participants in the program they will lead after lunch in rooms that won’t be as fancy as this one, which by the way is not all that fancy.

Measuring success

One of my monitoring/evaluation (M&E) colleagues has challenged me some time ago to explain what exactly happens when the teams in our leadership development programs (LDPs) show ‘leadership’ and improve whatever it is they want to improve. What’s in that black box we call ‘transformation?’ I had already formulated some thoughts that take into account everything I am learning about the brain but this remains guess work, not the kind of reasoning that our M&E colleagues would find acceptable.

Getting hard data about transformation in the social sciences is not easy. I actually thought it was impossible until I read Sandy Pentland’s The New Science of Building Great Teams (HBR April 2012, reprint number: R1204C). The article describes fascinating research at MIT’s Human Dynamics lab about measuring what makes teams effective and high performing using metrics of success as indicators.

Sandy (whose real name is Alex Paul) and his team of researchers created electronic badges full of sensors for people to wear at work for weeks on end. These badges produced thousands of data points; measuring tone of voice, acts of verbal and non-verbal communication, proximity to others, etc.  Using the data thus produced, over a period of several weeks, they were able to say exactly what distinguished the teams that did well (as measured by their indicator of success) and teams that did not.

We won’t be able to repeat the high-tech approach of the MIT team in Africa quite yet but we can ride on their coat tails by using their conclusions: three factors seemed to make a difference:  energy (which we have to eyeball but they could actually measure), engagement (the number of verbal exchanges between team members, both in one-on-one settings and in group settings) and exploration (the number of exchanges with members from other teams).

The winning formula is thus: energetic action to move towards the desired result (as opposed to passively waiting for higher ups to solve problems), engagement with each other in frequent conversation, working on a task together, asking for ideas, perspectives (as opposed to retreating to one’s office or computer and trying to solve problems on their own without asking for input from others) and exploration (going outside one’s own ‘tribe’ to listen to other parts of the organization, reading about what others are doing, soliciting advice from experts in other domains (as opposed to staying in one’s own small circle of familiar contacts, one’s bubble).

After reading about the MIT work I realized that our intuitions were not that far off the mark. Listening to our trained facilitators here in Cote d’Ivoire, these are exactly the things they mention when we ask them ‘what changed?” Their responses are consistent: “I used not to work with others as a team before; I did things on my own. Now we talk more with each other about the work, we get input from people we never asked input from, we even work with people from other ministries or other parts of the health system.”

A few of my colleagues will remember what happened in Egypt in the early 2000s when we first tested our approach to leadership development which became our ‘’LDP’.  There is a video (Seeds of Success) on YouTube about this experience. You can see people talk about their transformation. Viewing it again through MIT’s new 3 ‘E’ lens, I am excited, seeing energy, engagement and exploration. They were all there, and I knew it intuitively, now supported by the MIT Human Dynamics lab’s Big Data.

Harvest time

I have a different role now in this kind of ‘technical’ work as we call it at MSH. In the past I would be busy 15 hours a day, thinking, planning, goading, negotiating, giving feedback, preparing. But now all this is done by others. I have handed over the baton and it has been carried around the block several times, without me lifting a finger or a foot.

I had not thought a lot about this but this is of course how it should be: working oneself out of a job. What I also had not realized that moving further away from the action (on the balcony as Ron Heifetz would say) allows one to reflect while taking in a much bigger landscape.

And reflecting I do. I have time to read and reflect and connect. I have time for slow conversations with people, driven by curiosity rather than some force outside me that wants answers. I love it.

In short succession I wrote 3 blogs for my own page on our intranet. I have no idea who will read it, I have a just a handful of followers, but it doesn’t matter. It’s like a storage place for ‘aha’s or ‘déclics’ as the French call it. I will post some here as well. Stay tuned.

Marvel

Monday morning we had a brief meeting with the project director who just returned from his vacation, about our adventures in western Cote d’Ivoire. I produced a slide show with the main observations, mostly good. I congratulated him and his team on what they have created in that part of Cote d’Ivoire that is often peripheral to where the action is.

My colleague R. treated us to a wonderful lunch: grilled fish, a paste made from plantains and Atieke, two local starches. The paste looks a bit like playdoh but tastes better. The sauce was made from the peanuts we bought on Sunday. It is a little spicy, like the Indonesian satay sauce, and very filling. Because of that it is usually eaten at home,  at lunch or breakfast time but not at night.

And then we took to the road again, this time closer by, to a town called Adzope, just 100 km north of Abidjan. It took us a small two hours. We arrived at the ‘luxe’ hotel where we launched the very first workshop of the leadership development program in May 2014. This is why am I am here: to observe our leadership development program that has been cascaded down. Now third and fourth generations of trainers are preparing the next generation to take the lessons even closer to the base. I kind of lost track of the many generations and branches that emerged from that first leadership development program all those years ago.

Once again, probably because of my white hair, I got the royal suite. It is called the ‘Suite Merveille’ (wonder or marvel suite), where I stayed last time as well. It has a bath with the same faucet arrangement I marveled (indeed) about when I was here last: the faucet doesn’t extend all the way inside the edge of the tub and thus, when the water is turned on, it splashes in all directions except into the tub. No one seems to have bothered to change the arrangement. This is Africa, improvisation in the face of adversity to the Nth degree, even when this adversity seems to me such an easy thing to change. “Ahh, c’est la vie!”

We are in the same heavily draped room with an enormous, un-moveable boardroom table that looks like a race track – an elongated oval with a space in the middle. It occupies a good part of the room. It sits about 35 to 40 people around. But we are 50. Away from the table is a second row, consisting of well-worn auditorium chairs with small writing tablets hidden in the arm rests.

I remember the panic when I saw this room three years ago. It is so completely contrary to what I then thought we needed (and could not do without). Now, 3 years later I don’t panic anymore. I know the process carries itself even if the space is unsuitable. It is no longer my problem (ah the joys of ageing!) and the facilitators can draw on their own experience to make the space work, as we did last time. They remembered, placing extra chairs on the inside of the oval, making small group work possible.

Room with a view

I had asked for a nice room with a view, which is what I got but not in the way I had expected. The view was an enormous tree, close to my window. At first I was annoyed because it was actually blocking my view, until I noticed movement. On closer look the tree was full of bats. These are, I believe, the fruit bats. They used to live all over Plateau in the tall trees that used to stand everywhere. They would leave their guano on the cars of all the people that work here, until someone in the government thought it was best to cut the trees. But clearly this tree was spared and some of the homeless bats moved in.

It is like a nightmare to peek between the leaves and see fat bodies wriggling while hanging down. They wriggle to get as much shade as possible. I see large bats the size of kittens and their offspring, the size of hamsters and mice.

And then, as if by order from above, they swarm, even though it is not yet dark, about an hour before sunset. They rise from the tree, circle it, thousands of them, looking like a swarm of birds, and then, as quickly as they appear they are gone, God knows where, to catch their daily meal.

I remember watching these bats from the terrace of the Grand Hotel in Niamey decades ago. I realized this was a ritual that was eons old. No hacking of trees could stop it. I am sure people have even used chemicals. They are a sturdy lot and their offspring will go on living in trees and hunting at night, long after we are gone.

And so, I had been given after all, a room with a view.

Ride and rest

After another long day of riding in a car we arrived at Abidjan at the end of Saturday afternoon. I finished one book and two electronic jigsaw puzzle which helped pass the time. The landscape consist mostly of green foliage, a 1000 shades of green and the grey ribbon of the road, interrupted here and there by dusty villages and people carrying stuff or waiting for something. It’s kind of boring if you have seen it before. What killed the boredom was a stop in a cocoa plantation, where the farmer hid from us for a bit before he dared come out. Two white women are not a common appearance between the leafy cocoa trees.

For lunch we stopped again in Yamoussoukro. Our Ivorian colleagues tried hard to get us the peanut dish that B, my co-traveler from the office in Medford, likes so much. Apparently it is a dish that is eaten at home and not commonly in a restaurant.

We had transferred our reservation from the guesthouse of our first night here to a hotel, preferring a place with a restaurant and, in particular, a salad bar. The fancy hotels here aren’t actually all that fancy, but it would be for two nights. We ended up in the Ibis which is getting a one star review from me on trip advisor as does certainly not provide the value one would expect of a 130-dollars-a-night lodging.

  1. went out for dinner and karaoke and dancing with a colleague who hails from the country where she was, only very recently, a Peace Corps Volunteer. I had dinner at the hotel and went to bed. Sometimes the age differences are a little too obvious.

On Sunday we each went off in different directions. B. accompanied a colleague to church while I slept in and worked. She then went off to buy clothes for a tailoring project while I went off with my ‘sister’ R. to shop for beer and wine for our next hotel stay. We have stayed there before and we know the restaurant is pretty useless there. We would eat juicy ripe mangoes and drink local beer for dinner each night as the restaurant was pretty useless with a waitress not all that interested in serving anyone.

We both had home-made lunched and napped at the hotel before meeting up to review the progress of my report to the project director. He has just returned from vacation and we will see him only briefly before heading out to a small town (Adzope) not too far from Abidjan. When the week is over we will go straight to the airport to catch our flight to Paris, unless the AF strike that is being prepared reaches into Africa.

Containment

Yesterday we completed our sweep through one of the regions in the western part of Cote d’Ivoire. We sat in on the last session of this round of the workshops in the leadership program at the hospital of Bangolo. We were seated on brightly colored plastic chairs in a small standalone meeting room on the hospital grounds. Here too there were no tables, though some people used another chair for that purpose. This team, which included two women (unlike the previous group), was made up of the hospital director, someone from the ministry of sports and youth, an NGO leader, a midwife and a couple more hospital staff.

There is a way of applauding, all across Francophone West Africa, that starts with a shout ‘clap one,’ at which command people clap once, followed by a ‘clap two,’ and then ‘triplet’ (pronounced the French way). People clap three times in unison and with their hands send the last clap to the person who merits the applause. This person then accepts the clap by bringing his or her hands, full of the clap energy, to his or her heart. In the first group we attended on Wednesday, they even had assigned a focal point for these ‘triplets,’ who periodically shouted out the commands. The second group we observed had little of this and the third group did a triplet just about every five minutes. It can get a little bit stale after hearing dozens of triplets, but no one seems to mind.

I was quite pleased with what I observed the last three days. The facilitators were trained by the people I trained back in 2014, and most had entirely internalized the concepts and tools they were sharing. The three teams are working on the containment of infectious diseases outbreaks to keep them from becoming epidemics; it is small scale and small victory work right now but that is because they are practicing new ways of managing and leading as they go along. The hope is that after we are gone, they will have changed the way they lead and manage and can tackle larger problems.

The team in Guiglo focused on bringing deaths due to meningitis down to zero; the team in Duékoué was looking at neonatal tetanus and the team in Bangolo focused on rabies. I remembered a district in Afghanistan that had followed the same leadership development approach and also focused on rabies. They were able to bring the number of people coming into the hospital with rabies to zero by getting rid of the dogs that carried the virus. They did this by engaging multiple stakeholders to work together on this public health threat. I am sharing their Challenge Model with the group here – as they are not focusing on the dogs themselves, which they probably should. In Afghanistan it was the lack of environmental hygiene in the market and around slaughter houses that had led to the rabies outbreak

We had our last meal at the same place we have eaten every night – grilled carp and atieke and a salad with, every day, less and less tomatoes and more and more onions. We are now buddy-buddy with the waitress, Estelle, who was dressed in long white and gold trimmed gown, an outfit fit for the Oscars. Maybe because it was Friday night and payday just happened a few days ago? In her gown she dragged small tables and plastic chairs to accommodate our wish of not being too close to the disco that we assumed employed her. The playlist was fabulous but better at some distance. She served us our drinks with a smile and entertaining conversations. When we made moves to leave she kneeled before me and extended her arms, a respectful way of saying goodbye to an elder, which I am in this part of the world . She called me  ‘mamie’  (grandma), which I am also.

Student rising

Our new hotel has no restaurant yet. That part of the complex is still under construction. One can have breakfast in a temporary arrangement that consists of a canvas canopy in the middle of the construction site. The table is set with plastic plates and cups for the 5 of us and a few other guests. Right now the finished part of the hotel is where we sleep. There is no reception, only rooms.

We prefered eating elsewhere and went to a local patisserie where we spotted the little Nespresso machine, for which there was electricity and capsules, we were in luck. An espresso cost the same as a stick with powdered Nescafe: 1 dollar each. For two dollars I had an espresso, a half baguette, straight from the oven and a tasty omelet.

Everything in this new town has been better than in the previous one: no centipedes, warm water (that is if you take a shower at 5:30 AM), and electricity (after a while). I now have a cold beer waiting in my private refrigerator for when I get back to the hotel tonight.

Today we are sitting in a tiny room with two rows of chairs facing each other, it looked a bit like contestants facing each other.  Later it turned out the cleaner had arranged the room like that and my colleagues the facilitators, for reasons unknown, did not change the set up.

Outside the conference room, cleaning supplies piled up high give the impression that hygiene is important – a good thing in a hospital. However, our colleagues tell us these supplies have been sitting there for a while, which makes me wonder whether hygiene is a theoretical rather than a practical issue.

A loud boom outside shakes me, activating reflexes from our Lebanon and Afghanistan days. My Ivorian colleagues tell me this is the sound of teargas. I have never been close to teargas and so I don’t recognize the sound. For me a boom is an explosion. We learned earlier that the students are holding a demonstration; we saw them streaming to a central point along the wide sandy paths that serve as secondary roads. Our driver turned into another sandy path strewn with the ubiquitous blue plastic bags to avoid the area where the conflagration seemed to be concentrated.

I learned later that the students are protesting the cancellation of their February vacation. A strike earlier this year of the teachers set them back by 3 weeks. The school administration decided it should cancel the vacation to catch up. Two students were arrested. Today’s demonstration is calling for the release of those two. This is how demonstrations can be self-generating and the administrative forces better pay attention to this, otherwise it will continue to disrupt the lives of many people, including the regional director whose office is right in the center of the demonstration, so that we could not make our courtesy visit.  That part of the town is now off limits and the police is in full riot gear.

Amenities

We observed the first day of the three day workshop that is the second in a series of four. We met in the same meeting hall that had been re-arranged, to my great delight, with a circle of chairs in the middle. I had introduced this notion to others some time ago, as a much better way to meet (one cannot work on a computer or check a cellphone when sitting in a circle without tables). The idea had trickled down to the next generation of facilitators. It was a new combination of faciclitators and participants, and so a bit stiff for the first part. But eventually thaw set in and the conversations became more animated and the learning began.

Having a workshop that is held, quite literally, in the middle of the hospital, is challenging as participants can be called out at any time for an emergency. The facilitators were scratching their heads on what to do about it. I suggested they stop scratching and give the job to the participants. That is after all the team that is supposed to learn about leadership.

The facilitators create a village and the group selects the name of the village, appoints the chief and notables, a ‘conscience horaire’ (time keeper), a treasurer for the fines that late comers have to pay, etc. The norm setting is a well-worn ritual all over Africa and has little to do with the behavior of people. This version, which I have only seen in Cote d’Ivoire, with its village and chief was at least Africanized. But it did have an entire enforcement system that I thought was too much like the way things are here with the emphasis on extrinsic motivation.

And then, like all the other norms I have seen over my career, immediately ignored. The only part that was respected was the role of the village chief, both as arbiter of divergent opinions and to open and close the day.

The leadership work that we do, and which few recognize, is about awareness. I believe that if you are not aware you cannot make choices. And so I pointed out that they had created a new norm, by ignoring the norms they created, and that was that norms don’t matter and that there are no consequences for breaking the norms. And now that they were aware of this they could either throw out the norms or find ways to stick to them.

At 4 PM the session was over and we drove to the next town and a new hotel. This one also had no power and also no water. It may be hard to imagine this, from one’s comfortable vantage point in the US (or Europe, or fancy hotels everywhere) that a hotel could run without water and electricity. It reminded me of my first month in Beirut, in 1976, after the fighting had stopped. We stayed in the Mayflower hotel and ate our peas and rice in the dark.

I was given the royal suite. A comfortable suite of rooms with an enormous bed, and several amenities that were useless because there was no electricity (two aircos, two TVs and a refrigerator). The bathroom was nice but without running water not usable. All would come back in due time we were told.  Insha’llah, I murmured. But water and electricity did indeed return and I slept comfortably and took a hot shower in the morning. The latter had to happen before 6AM because after 6 the water would be gone again until 10PM. One learns to adapt.

We ate with our colleagues on the side of the road, grilled carp, an onion tomato salad and hot salsa and atieke, the local starch, washed away with a cold beer. Life is good.


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