Archive Page 56

Bad to worse to bed

Being without voice is bad enough but now a dry cough, sinus congestion and ear aches have joined in, plus a slight fever. My body is protesting loudly about something; and here I was doing so well with the sugar abstention.

We went to a meeting at our donor’s offices this morning and in the middle of the meeting I had a coughing fit that became a coughing spasm and therefore hard to stop. I had another one later during the day. I was hoping to get better because tomorrow I am standing in front of 30 people eager to learn how we ‘do’ management and leadership development. It is not going the way I had wanted.

Our meeting with our funder this morning was all done in whispers, not just mine – people clearly adjust to the levels of voice with which they are spoken to. This is good to know, if one didn’t already – when someone is shouting loud at you, speak softly back. I am also getting tons of advice about home remedies, some known, some unknown, like putting a peeled onion on the table, tapping my chin, massaging and wrapping my throat, and then of course the known one of ginger, lemon, honey, hot water and a bit of rhum, a grog. I will do that before bedtime as they make a wicked ginger tea here.

Talking in a whisper without engaging the vocal cords is more exhausting than I thought; having done this now for two days, it finally caught up with me. I left the office at 3 PM and headed for bed, too tired to do anything else. I left my colleague behind to prepare on her own. It is pretty clear now that she will have to do the facilitation – I am going to be the whisperer in the background which won’t let me engage with people – so very frustrating.

The only good thing to report is a fabulous massage last night. The spa across the parking lot has a deal with the hotel, 20% off. I think I will be back.

Whispers

When I woke up on Tuesday my voice was completely gone, not even a croak. Part of me was rebelling against this affliction and the other part sighed and surrendered. What else can one do? I am sure that the fighting would only prolong it.

And so I went through the day whispering. It is funny that when you whisper, other people also start to whisper around you.

We took another chance going to the ministry hoping to see the big boss and have him approve the meeting on Thursday that we had started to prepare with an underling. We positioned ourselves in the anteroom to his secretary; a large room with some 20 chairs arranged along the walls. On one side was a large bureau – the center piece of a bureaucracy (= the power of the bureau). Since I couldn’t really talk I observed. There was a constant coming and going of people, many quite young. Everyone carried a folder or a brief case or some other container for papers. Sometimes papers got filled out but most came with papers already done.

The sign on the entrance door to the secretary’s office says ‘knock and then enter.’  But some people just sat down and waited. It wasn’t like a doctor’s office where you are called in, and so I never understood on what cue people got up, knocked and went into the next room.

The next room was populated by three people sitting there amidst piles of papers, some loose, some in binders and folders, piled up high. My colleague left a handwritten note for the big boss, who she had taught some years ago, asking him to just see us for a few minutes. The secretary wasn’t very friendly. I gave her my card and she copied it on a piece of paper. We went back out to the anteroom and continued the wait.

I had to go to the bathroom. This required an explanation of who I was and a key, which I got. I am not sure why the bathroom was locked as it wasn’t in pristine condition. I know in many ministries of health the toilets are locked because people wander in from the street and foul the place up (really foul).  For a moment it looked like I couldn’t get out as the lock fell apart when I tried to open up. I had visions of being locked in there for hours and nobody daring to rescue me not knowing whether I was still doing my business. Eventually I got out and shortly thereafter we got our break with the big boss. Not having a voice was really awkward. My colleague had to do the talking and I sat close to the boss, whispering to him now and then.

The rest of the afternoon we worked on the program for Thursday, for which we have now received the official green light, and me whispering my colleague through the exercises she will have to do.

Voiceless

As the day progressed, my allergic reaction to Tana got worse. By the end of the day I had a full blown laryngitis. I am told that the air quality in Tana is similar to that in the big Chinese cities – really bad. My body had a near instant reaction to the toxins in the air – as soon as I had left the airport my eyes began to water and my throat started to hurt. I hate to think what I am ingesting with each breath of air. Air intake is not so easy to regulate as sugar, darn.

I spent the day getting to know my new colleague, a seasoned facilitator who will be running the leadership program here. She too is coughing and having a reaction to the air quality; so at least I am not alone. I was told by my colleagues that a cut onion on the table will keep the cold from wandering around. I forgot to get myself an onion for my hotel room – which, by the way, also smells funny and was apparently sprayed to keep insects at bay; more toxins.

We had hoped to make a courtesy call to the general secretary of the ministry of health on this first day to get some marching orders or test ideas on how to use my ten precious days here. This turned out to be a very difficult task. My new colleague has tried to set up appointments for two weeks now without success. Some people are apparently not all that keen on this project. Why is anyone’s guess?

By mid-afternoon we decided to go to the ministry and hang around hoping to catch the important people in between meetings. Getting there was an adventure. We took a taxi, a rickety Renault 4L that hung together with wire and duct tape. Every time the car stopped the driver had to put two wires together to start. Then, half way through constant traffic jams he pulled over to get a couple of liters to gas to get us to our destination; and then all hell broke loose with a monsoon type thunder and lightning storm. And it was then that I learned about real rain and artificial rain. Artificial rain is created, according to my counterpart, by blowing salt into the air. When I came back to my hotel I looked it up and got the more scientific explanation of what is called ‘cloud seeding.’ I had no idea such a thing existed.  And so we experienced artificial rain and, presumably real rain as we are on the edge of the rainy season’s start. I couldn’t tell the difference as both types of rains created instant rivers dashing down the steep streets of Tana. A toddler would have been swept away. Our taxi’s roof held but water came in through all the ill-fitting windows and doors. At least it brought some cool air in the otherwise stifling heat.

We arrived at the ministry when many people were leaving, a cause de la pluie, apparently. Given the puddles and rivers and resulting intensification of already intense traffic jams, I could understand that, but it didn’t help with our mission.

Luckily my colleague knows lots of people as she has had a long career in educating government officials on such topics as leadership, public administration, management, etc. People embraced her left and right and she took advantage of introducing me to everyone so that we could start seeding the place with snippets of what our leadership program can do.

Having already given up on getting an audience with the right people and then have these people call a meeting so we can show our wares, we were surprised to suddenly find someone who could call the meeting and reserve a room. That would be Thursday. Now I badly need to get my voice back because that is my main instrument.

Easing in

I spent the morning of my Saturday in Johannesburg working. When I am on a trip some of the other work continues. I wanted to clear my plate and thought I did when I learned there were other files to review though not visible to me in the Google Drive; most of the time I like Google Drive but yesterday I didn’t.

I treated myself to a Lebanese mezze for lunch, a macchiato on a terrace and then a pedicure. I decided that I hadn’t quite earned the massage yet (that’s the Calvinist in me).  For dinner I feasted on softshell crab and a magnificent glass of white wine at the Koi restaurant, a chain I know from my Pretoria stays that has an interesting cuisine. I eat my meals fast as there is no one to converse with. When the tables filled up and people were waiting to be seated I offered the other three chairs at my table, looking forward to some dinner conversation, but the wait staff looked at me as if I was off my rocker. Apparently one doesn’t do that here.

Back at the hotel I found that my suitcase was heavier than the airline allowed. I filled my hand luggage and succeeded to stay under the 20 kg for the flight to Tana. I left my cliff and other bars, that I now know contain a lot of sugar, for the hotel staff. I am holding on to the various packages of chocolates but that is for the teams I will work with. Bringing chocolate to Madagascar is like bringing coal to Newcastle, but I couldn’t think of anything else to bring.  Should I now feel guilty about bringing gifts that I no longer deem edible, at least not for the next 40 days?

And now I am in Tana, not at the usual boutique hotel where I have always stayed as it is full. I am put up at a “you-could-be-anywhere-in-the-world hotel.” It looks just like the one I will be staying in in Abidjan in a few weeks.

I am looking out over leaden skies. Everything is wet – it is the rainy season here, hot and humid. As soon as I got off the plane I started to have watery eyes and sneeze– I am beginning to think that I am allergic to Tana, as this has happened each time I have come here.

And now I am going to have my free welcome cocktail (a beer I think) at the bar downstairs and check out the sauna, hamman and espace sportif – all of which I get to use for free, the boutique hotel doesn’t quite have that. And then I am going to celebrate my last free night trying to finish the book Congo (by David van Reybrouck) that my sister gave me in June.

The period I am reading about now (early 50s) is exactly the time that my father travelled across-Africa (hitting some of the same cities I am doing now) on a brewery trip that took 3 months. Travel is a bit faster these days.  I can’t remember whether he stopped in Congo, but if he did, he may well have met some of the future giants of Congo politics (as they were each associated with a beer company – Lumumba, Congo’s first prime Minister was at Polar beer, and Kasavubu, Congo’s first president was with Primus beer). I have my father’s diary at home and only skimmed through it once. I was embarassed by the racist undertone of his writing about the locals het met (presumably mostly servants and servers) and the luxurious life that the Belgians and French lead: houses at the most beautiful spots, camembert and french wines flown in regularly – they live like kings, my father remarked. The diary sits in a box with postcards from african cities: palms, neatly painted colonial architecture (without the black mildew), an occasional car and bus and here and there a bare-breasted African woman.

Sugar and purple arcades

I could fly around the world in a B-class pod that reclines 180 degrees. This way the 15 hour flight was a cinch.  For the connecting flight to Atlanta I was on the waiting list for an upgrade. Maybe it was because of me being a 2 million miler but I ended up at the front of a list of 50 hopefuls, all competing for one seat. I got it. Maybe having passed the 2 million mark has put me in a different league where I am leaving some of the competition for upgrades behind. I imagine that most of the 2 million milers are already business class travelers with paid seats.

On the long stretch I watched three movies: A Royal Night Out (OK, probably won’t remember in a month), The Little Prince (in French, lovely) and That Sugar Film. The latter shook me into a resolve I am keen to stick to. It is a documentary about sugar and how it has slipped into what we might consider ‘healthy’ foods under the guise of ‘low fat.’  I have resolved to not touch the stuff, at least in recognizable foods, until I get back to the US.  This is no small deal as I am a bit of a sugar addict, and learned that I consume more than the prescribed 24 grams for women on many days. It was the promise of a healthy liver and mental clarity that was most attractive. Test my clarity in 45 days!

I arrived in Johannesburg under clear skies. It was a warm summer day. The hotel is in one of the suburbs. The Jacaranda trees are in full bloom. The urban designers planted the trees in such a way that one has a sense of going through a purple arcade with the flowering limbs touching one another overhead. Here and there the dark red Bougainvillea adds another magnificent color to the overall décor of suburban lanes. It is breath taking; but here, as in Pretoria, people hide behind tall walls, serpentine wire and thick gates.

The hotel presents itself as an opulent urban sanctuary. Urban here means main thoroughfare and shopping malls. The hotel which is a dedicated historical monument, must at one time been looking out over green fields and surrounded by gardens. But this is no longer the case. It is now separated from the busy street life by hedges and a locked gate, just like the jewelry shops at the mall.

I have an enormous suite that has two bathrooms, two rooms and a separate dressing area. The old fashioned bathtub was the main attraction after the long flight. Before taking a bath I wandered into the mall to get money, a local simcard and a small bottle of wine. I completed my mall visit with a sushi dinner on a mall terrace while watching people stroll by. This stopover in Johannesburg was just what the doctor prescribed. By the way, I had no dessert, nor did I eat the praline that was put by my bedside. Sugar!

Lists

The last few days before departure have bene relentless and exhausting as tasks piled upon tasks. Some came back after I thought they were done, like the Ethiopia visa that expires two weeks before I even get there. The Ethiopians must assume that one makes short trips. The visa was stamped on October 23 and expires on November 22. I arrive December 5. That was not good value for money and requires now another 175 dollars for a rush visa, ughhh. But after an whole day trip across the continent on December 5 I don’t want to wing it and try to talk my way into the country on an expired visa. What if they were to send me back to Abidjan?

The good people at Delta managed to get me from the waiting list into a B-class seat for the long haul from Atlanta to Johannesburg, so the first part (and the longest) of the mega trip looks good.

Last night Tessa came over in the storm to pick up some of our plants and collect her wedding paraphernalia that are being recycled from one of my colleagues who just had her wedding in the north country.  This means the decoration part is done.

Over dinner at a local restaurant she went over her list: save-the-date to invitees – not done (the hardest part), dress, about to be ordered,  Steve’s outfit (no idea yet), music (some ideas), food (figured out), putting up the guests (ideas only), officiator (done), place (done – their home), photographer (everyone), flowers (will grow), wedding cake (we got the stand, homemade probably), wedding party (small, no bridesmaids, done). We have 11 months to go so we should be in good shape, ha!

And now I have to pay attention to the open suitcase with things strewn around it. Three hours before push off.

Standing

I am continuing my preparations for the trip, which are also happening at night, in my dreams. This morning I woke up from a frustration dream in which I was delaying a trip because of my knitting. I kept losing it (the knitting, not my marbles) and constantly had to retrace my steps to find it. I was never going to leave it seemed.

Reality is the opposite; the departure is getting closer and closer. Much of my ‘get ready’ work is about finishing (big) reviews I promised to have done and the designs of the various interventions I am tasked with. Obviously, based on my dreams, I am not convinced of making much progress, even though I am checking things off my ‘to do’ list.

Yesterday, when internet access disappeared about half past 5, I took it as a sign that the workweek was over and it was time to play. I was reminded of words uttered by my brother in law, years ago: ‘pas trop de zèle. These words have stayed with me ever since, whenever this ‘’ trop de zèle’ exhausts me.

We had an impromptu evening with our friends from Essex who came with their inexhaustible supply of roasted vegetables, to which we added grilled salmon and potatoes from (the exhaustible supply of our garden).  We picked a movie, very old fashioned at a  movie theatre, and watched Bridge of Spies with a flawless Tom Hanks performance. It brought back memories of visits behind the Iron Curtain in 1973. The scenes of people trying to get across the Wall before it seals off the East from the West were haunting. Back home, over a warm (Irish Coffee) and/or cold late night snack (ice cream with chocolate sauce) we sat by the fire mulling over the film, the cold war, the suffering, the divided cities, streets and families, bullies in uniform, and the terror of living in constant fear. We searched inside ourselves for whether we could ever display the moral character and courage of Hank’s character and his spy, whether we could be this ‘standing man,’ a key phrase in the denouement . We expressed gratitude for being born and living where we did and do. We are living such a live of abundance and freedom that it puts my mild suffering on long airplane ride entirely in perspective.

Two million and counting

I have been busy getting ready for my five-week-criss-cross-Africa-mega trip – getting the tickets approved and bought (requiring several different projects to sign off), hotels booked, airport pick-ups arranged just on the logistics side; then there are the medicines that need to be stocked up, requiring overrides from the insurance company for supplies lasting more than 30 days, and then the malaria pills. And then of course, most important, the preparations, the designs, the calls with key stakeholders to get ready for the various assignments. On Sita’s recommendation I now have an app on my phone (Wunderlist) that tells me what’s left to do each day, in addition to getting milk and eggs and other supplies for daily living.

This evening I found a large box on my doorstep at home. I was surprised, racking my brain for something big I had ordered but had forgotten about. But no, it was Delta Airlines reward for me having flown more than 2 million miles with them. I started acquiring miles on Northwest in the late 80s so this has taken me about 30 years. It gets me a gold card on SkyMiles for life, this is nice. The package contained a carry on case that is made from material tested by the army, by the National Football League and by NASCAR (racing cars), so it should last another 2 million miles. The second 2 million will go faster, given the tempo of my trips, though I doubt I will be traveling like this in 20 years.

I looked up what this gift cost Delta and priced the Tumi case at about 600 dollars, so it is a real gift, not a crappy Chinese case with a zipper that breaks on the first trip. But then again, I don’t really need a fancy carry-on; I would prefer upgrades, especially on long rides like the upcoming one from Atlanta to Johannesburg. I hope that the 2 million miler status pushes me to the front rows whenever it gets too crowded in the back; fingers crossed.

Babies, burbs and bottles

Sita is working again and struggling with having an infant, nursing and pumping in between complex assignments that include travel. Even if travel isn’t all that far (Cambridge), it is complicated with an infant and a 3 year old who is in school. She arranged a deal with her sister who came to Cambridge. She brought her work with her (=her computer) but ended up having to use the computer to look up what to do with a gassy crying baby. She did well on one day but on day two mom came to the rescue and together we worked on getting the burbs out of Saffi. When she finally stopped crying (more like the braying of a donkey at times) we rewarded ourselves with a nice lunch and a bag of brownie crisps.

On Friday night I picked Sita up for a night at our house before going back to work on Saturday. By then the hotel staff had thrown her breast pump and various other items left in the room, out in the trash. It was a sorry performance by a worldclass hotel. For the pain and suffering this cost her, not to mention the distraction from the work she was paid to do, Marriott gave her a platinum membership in addition to reimbursing the cost of the lost items. But what use is a platinum membership when you only stay at such hotels once in a blue moon?

Both Tessa and Axel are recruited to repeat the babysitting stint a few more times before the next month is over. Axel was practicing this weekend whenever Saffi was crying. He takes his job serious. We are all happy about that. I won’t be able to come to the rescue because I will be in Madagascar.

On Saturday Sita borrowed our car without the gizmo that clicks the car open and shut (and with it the alarm). When she arrived at her hotel in Cambridge and gave the keys to the valet parking attendant the alarm went off – and we got another one of Sita’s stress calls. We ended up driving, all of us, into Cambridge, dropped the keys with clicker off and let Sita focus on her work. Once in the city, we decided to go to the Aquarium which is a treat with a 3 year old. Saffi slept through the whole outing, including the rides to and fro.

Once Sita’s work was done, on Sunday, we all decompressed at home, surrounded by toys, books, diapers and bottles. I finished my small knitting project, a sweater for Saffi which was just as well as it fitted like a glove. This means it won’t fit anymore in a couple of weeks. It’s called just-in-time knitting. The knitting hasn’t been good for my shoulder and so I am holding off on a new project until the shoulder is in good working order again.

On Sunday afternoon we went for a lovely walk in the Audubon Ipswich River Sanctuary, getting chickadees to perch on our hands picking seeds that a nice person had left scattered throughout the park. They wouldn’t perch on Faro’s tiny hand as he was too obsessed with catching them. They figured that out very quickly.

Horizons

The last week has brought Atul Gawande’s latest book (Being Mortal) to life for Axel and me. Our neighbor Charlie turned 93. He is doing amazingly well but he is of a different opinion, lamenting his shuffling walk and the things he can’t do anymore, like driving a car. He gave up driving after a brush with a stone wall and we are all better for it, except Charlie himself who has now become more dependent on others. He is lucky that there are others, but still, this dependency stinks.

And then we went to M’s 84th birthday party and kissed her husband goodbye, not knowing if we will ever see him again. He sat there, listening, dozing. People had not expected he would be there to celebrate but he did. M read a Gibran poem to us, but it was really to him and I could tell she was preparing herself for his departure. All the emotions are so raw now, she said through tears.

And finally we visited A. and her husband who survived a brain tumor but the aggressive treatment has left him a shadow of his former self. Axel and I are digesting all this aging business, or trying to, wondering what our time horizon is, five years? Ten years? Twenty years?

We are also wondering what it is like when one recognizes that the horizon is closing in. We are still considered the ‘young old,’ with Axel hitting 70 next year (I am a spring chicken in comparison); our friends we visited the last two days are medium old and Charlie is getting up there with the very old. We are watching all of these people age (mostly men at this point), trying to learn from what we see. But we don’t know what the experiences actually are and what there is to learn; we are onlookers for now, though increasingly aware that slowly (or fast) we will be sliding into the experience ourselves. Preparing for the inevitable is steadily moving up on our list of priorities.


March 2026
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