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Old

I observed the first day of the management training that is provided as part of the WHO wheelchair service training package from the sidelines. My Filipina colleagues ran the day in a mixture of Tagalog and English. Not everyone of the participants actually manages a rehab center, some are in charge of developing national policies. This makes it challenging to cater to everyone’s needs. But the trainers are doing a great job.

Not having slept well the last few days I resolved to go to bed early, and treat myself to a facial to get sufficiently relaxed beforehand. I was suckered into getting the anti-aging treatment, which is double the price of a regular treatment.  I am sure my 26 year old colleague was not given that suggestion. Have I now entered that category of old and credulous people who pay extra for the silly promise of looking younger? My brain told me this was poppycock but I bought the package anyways. When it was time to pay, as if to convince me I had chosen well, the beautician pushed a mirror in front of me. Frankly, I thought I looked old and tired.

On the way back to the hotel I stopped at the supermarket to stock up on dried mango for the return trip. There was one line dedicated to retired people. I decided I looked sufficiently old (and tired, though not re-tired) to be allowed in that line which was also populated by a string of young girls. When the cashier saw me she told the girls to step aside and let me through. Old indeed!

Birth of a society

The second wheelchair stakeholder alignment or consultative meeting is over – it was the primary reason for me being here.  Although my task is not done, the hard work is over. Tomorrow we start the managers training meeting for rehab center directors and other people in managerial positions from the government, the national health insurance program, private sector and charities. I will get to serve mostly as a supportive coach to the Filipina trainers; they left me just one session to conduct, on Planning for Financial Sustainability no less!

This afternoon I served as a midwife to the birth of the Philippines Society of Wheelchair Professionals. The first part of the day was hard labor, but then in the afternoon the baby slipped easily into this world. The birthing process was participative and exciting and left spirits very high, swept even higher by a group photo accompanied by Queen’s “We Are The Champions.”

I had asked for nominations for candidates to form a transition committee that would help shepherd the Society into its postnatal period, until such a time that it is strong enough for formal election of its officers. Ten people were nominated or nominated themselves; two of them declined, seven of them did a less than one minute stump speech and eight were on the ballot. Everyone voted for five candidates, a somewhat arbitrary limit informed mostly by practical considerations and my experience that teams of 5 are often more effective than larger teams.

While Maggie counted the votes, the 60 or so participants and soon to be members of the Society created three drafts statements built up from the ideas of each and every individual in the room. After the election results came through, the five members of the democratically elected received their applause and set down to their first task as Transition Committee and fashioned the mission statement out of the key words that the group had identified from three drafted statements. Transition_committee-PSWP

And while the Society’s mission was being created, the rest of the participants brainstormed possible objectives and settled on four, an easy process of convergence as the glue among the participants had already set, in spite of quite divergent individual agendas and concerns.

Maggie gave me a brief refresher on hash tags and @ signs and supervised my first Instagram postings on this newly born society and its first pilots.

A research team from JHPIEGO, a Johns Hopkins affiliate, invited everyone to dinner to share the results of a consultation they conducted on Monday morning – a nice example of synergy between organizations who sometimes compete and sometimes work together, as we did here – both of our programs funded by USAID.

I ended this great day deeply tired but very happy and treated myself to a massage in the hotel spa. Unlike the sketchy spa in our previous, much more upscale hotel, this spa was great and open till midnight.  My massage was splendidly done by Nellie, who I might visit one more time before it is time to return home.

Wet Sunday

Sunday the remains of the latest cyclone hovered around Manila. It was a day to stay indoors and take care of other assignments, read and take naps. I decided to take a late breakfast but that was a mistake; everyone and their brother, and especially little overweight brothers, milled around the various self-service stations in random movements. The description of the breakfast arrangement is priceless: a showcase of a live interactive kitchen and the intent to “make your gastronomic adventure more festive.” Today I am going to try breakfast at 6 and visit station 7, the kimchi and other fermented foods station.

During a few dry spells I took a walk in the neighborhood of the hotel. It was Sunday and therefore quiet for a change. We are near the UN and the University of the Philippines faculty of allied health services and the university hospital. The buildings hint at past grandeur but it is gone now. The Radium and X-Ray Therapy Institute had known better times, its function chiseled into its grand façade.

When the mall opened I checked out eyeglasses but found little reason to purchase an extra set here. The prices were only slightly lower than in the US. This is true for many of the brand name offerings at the mall which clearly caters to the well-heeled citizens of Manila. Only the nail and spa places are a bargain for us. After the pedicure a facial and massage is still on the program.

Two women who had just flown in from the US joined us for dinner. One is from Johns Hopkins University who will share the findings of a research study about wheelchairs. The other is from the US Cerebral Palsy Foundation and arranged her last minute flight, this event being too good an opportunity for her program to meet with key stakeholders to miss. We went out to the Seafood Market restaurant, recommended to us by both the concierge and the reception staff, a short walk from our hotel.

The restaurant turned out to be quite a dining experience. When entering the restaurant one receives a supermarket shopping cart and then helps oneself to fresh fish, displayed on ice, vegetables and fruits. When done the cart is wheeled into the kitchen and a short while later the contents of the cart return to the table transformed into a most wonderful meal.  For about 20 dollars each we had sweet and sour fish, scallops, jumbo prawns and a mountain of stir fried greens. For dessert we had picked mangoes and watermelons which were delivered to our table prepped for easy eating. What a concept!

Work, eat and play

It was a nice reunion at breakfast where I found both my US colleague and my Filipina co-conspirators – the same team I worked with in Cambodia earlier this year when Massachusetts was still covered under lots of snow.

I love breakfasts in Asian hotels because they serve both Asian and western breakfasts and I get to sample a lot of different foods. I started with sticky rice rolled in some sort of leaf, eaten with caramel and roasted coconut. Then I had a crepe, again with caramel and this time with banana slices, and of course lots of fresh fruit.

After breakfast we reviewed our plan, divided roles and I started to prepare for the sessions I am running. M. and I went to the mall for lunch and to hunt for flipcharts but we got sidetracked after an overdose on Japanese food – M. had a facial and I had my toenails done in a nail spa that reeked of toxic liquids but made my nails presentable again.

It is weekend here and in the rainy season, or maybe any season, it is mall time. The place was filled with Filipinos who are visibly doing well. But on the way to the mall you have to dodge the street urchins, some younger than Faro, who have already learned the rules of street life. A young mother held on to the littlest of her brood of four, five? I wondered about her story. It was a very sad and disturbing sight, just steps away from the good life.

Later I met a new member of the team,  a young Mexican physical therapist who was one of the trainers of last week’s intermediate wheelchair fitting course. She is also representing the newly founded International Society of Wheelchair Providers, supported, like all of us here, by the American taxpayer via USAID. We plan to lay the foundation this week for a local society, and possibly future affiliate of the international society.

For dinner (there is always a reason to eat here) we went back to one of our favorite places during our last visit, a shabu-shabu restaurant (akin to Mongolian hotpot). We had our Filipina colleagues do the ordering to avoid the fish lips and other weird edibles that M. and I ordered last time, not knowing what was what. For desert they had brought the fruit durian. I was amazed that the restaurant was OK with us bringing in our own dessert, and, even more amazing, something that had a rather pungent aroma that wafted through the place as soon as the Tupperware container was un wrapped. We all got to try a piece – not bad actually, until the burps set in. We also got to try malang, another tropical fruit, small white globules, a little like lychees, that made a very nice ending to the meal, and that may also have contributed to the not so great burps.Maggie-and-durian

A case for women

One of my many fun assignments is to direct MSH’s contributions to the Japanese Women Leadership Initiative. This role has gotten me involved in activities of the Boston-Japan Society. Axel and I attended its annual gala some months ago. This time I was invited to a luncheon that was attended by the economic affairs representative at the Japanese consulate in Boston. The purpose of the (sushi) luncheon was to bring together various women who have senior positions in Boston’s academic and civil society community and provide some insights on how to increase the role of women in Japanese society.

The Japanese Prime Minister has put women empowerment high on his agenda. Only a small percentage of women occupy senior leadership positions in both the public and private sector. A study investigated why this was the case and pointed at a complex set of interacting variables that are at play in just about any society: cultural practices and values, government policies, organizational policies, the educational system, the opinions of men and women, fathers and mothers in particular, and the near total absence of mentors and sponsors to encourage women to get into, and stay in the workforce in career track positions.

Education is obviously not the issue as the literacy and enrollment rates for both genders are high. It is what happens after school that appears to discourage women to embark on a career.

And now, some 36 hours later, I am in Japan, waiting to board my next flight to Manila. There I will be working on another one of my fun assignments: getting the world more responsive to people with mobility challenges – one wheelchair at a time; a wheelchair that is well fitted to its user and the environment in which he or she lives, and an environment that is accesisble to all its citizens, walking or rolling.

Towards normalcy

Today will be the completion of Saffi’s first week in the world. We are all glad it is over as it was a rather trying week. Sita and baby were discharged on Wednesday night. Our plan had worked: the baby had gained a few grams and the hospital staff relented, sending Sita home with some fifty tiny bottles of formula. Later we realized they were about to expire, another item to get out of the hospital as they would otherwise have to be discarded.

Being at home made all the difference. The stress melted like snow in the sun. Sita and Jim were finally able to settle into their new rhythm without uniformed staff interrupting them constantly. The baby met her regular pediatrician who noticed more weight gain and so we are on the path to normalcy. Sita hopes to be done with the formula and pumping after more weight gain is recorded at the next weigh-in on Monday.

Faro is beginning to act out a bit, being a little rambunctious and testy. We try to be gentle with him and Sita gives him special attention when the baby is asleep. The baby’s presence in his life is no longer an abstraction. With Saffi living in his house, and worse,  in his mammy’s and papa’s bedroom, we try to be understanding of the turmoil in his little head.

He was distracted from all the changes by a visit from his cousin who is 6 months older. They had a good time running around the yard and playing on the gym set. Faro was like a little puppy, getting wet in the small pool and then rolling around in the dirt, stuffing mouthfuls of dirt in his face and then looking up to see our reaction.

We had celebrated Axel’s 69 nine birthday the day before. We gave him an etching that he had drooled over some 6 months ago in Manchester’s second hand store, The Stock Exchange. He had researched the etching and had debated buying it. Then one day it was gone and he regretted not making a decision earlier. What he didn’t know is that Sita and I had bought it. He was very surprised to see it again. I also gave him Ottlenghi’s vegetarian cookbook (Plenty). He went straight to work and by Friday night we had already tried three of the recipes, all of them enormous improvements on the hospital food Sita and Jim had lived on for nearly a week.

It was nice to be on vacation, even though it included vacuuming and running errands. I did finish at least one of my trip reports, my expense reports, responded to a few emails and dealt with an email hacking scare, but all is settled down now. This is a good thing as the next trip is already staring me in the face: Thursday I am off to Manila.

Hospital rules

Axel and I quickly settled into our new grandparents’ routine. I continued to live out of my suitcase, wearing the same clothes as I did in Madagascar and Lomé. They were too cold for Madagascar, and just right for the temperatures in Lomé and too much for the heatwave in Easthampton.

While Jim slept at the hospital we got Faro up in the morning, brought him to school and then continued to the hospital. Sita was recovering very slowly from the ordeal and in considerable pain. The hospital procedures and rules did not help.

One night I traded places with Jim and spent the night with Sita. It was a sleepless night for both of us. It was an eyeopener for me as I compared this experience with having Tessa at the Beverly hospital birth center 30 years ago.

Although the nurses were nice, except for one we quickly referred to as nurse Ratchet, the stream of specialists interrupting all hours of the day and night is maddening – nurses for this, nurses for that, doctors for this, doctors for that, each demanding adherence to rules that didn’t always make sense. I was familiar with the hospital routine that insist that each caregiver first asks name and date of birth before providing care. You’d think that after this was established at first with the assigned medical staff, or if they’d just seen Sita 10 minutes ago, this could be bypassed.  But rules are rules of course and I am sure that the lawyers had a serious talk with the staff. The hospital had gotten some law suits on its hands a few years ago and the ownership changed. I could see the lawyers’ finger prints on everything. Good care is trumped by rule-following.

Even the person bringing the food tray checked name and date of birth; that was new to me. But again, I could see the lawyer waving his or her finger: deliver the food tray to the wrong person and we have a lawsuit on our hands. Can’t they not simply check the name of the room against the person? How many checks are needed? It is beginning to look like the TSA with five different people checking on what the previous person has already done.

When specialist advice went against Sita and my intuition about how to get food into Saffi we consulted the patient rights charter on the hospital’s website. It was written in language that, although meant to be supportive of patients, was more supportive to the hospital’s owners than to us ordinary people. We figured that if Sita used her right to refuse treatment, she’d have to sign all sorts of harsh sounding and unintelligible papers to release the hospital of any and all responsibilities, even those we thought were justified, like not putting Sita’s baby to her breast for long stretches of time the day of Saffi’s birth and the day after.  When Sita questioned the doctor and nurses about that some days later they responded with ‘that was then and now we are here!” Someone was protecting someone from something.

One night when I relieved Sita for a bit taking Saffi into the visitor’s room, so that the exhausted mom could sleep, I found the room both frigid and noisy. A giant industrial blower was turned on, apparently to dry the carpet under a drink dispensing machine. I asked whether they could please turn it off. No one was authorized to do so.

By day 5 we were told that the baby was still losing weight and she had apparently crossed a line that got alarm bells going. Having seen Faro losing much more than that three years ago and seeing him now, Sita and I were not concerned. But the doctor and nurse Ratchet were;  another rule got activated and formula was added to her regime. Sita and I resisted until we were told that under these circumstances Sita could be discharged but not the baby.  Since our objective was to get out of the place as fast as we could, we relented and embarked on a weight gain campaign and never mind the method.  Saffi obliged, gained a bit of weight and Sita and baby were discharged in the evening. Everyone is home now and we can make our own rules.

Long rides, new routines

The nice people of Delta upgraded me to business class for the long flight to Boston. Usually I don’t consider this a long flight but when you are rushing home seven plus hours is very long. The upgrade made the wait easier and allowed for a glass of champagne to toast myself to my new granddaughter.

Axel picked me up for the ride to the Northampton hospital in Western Massachusetts, where Sita and Saffi were recovering from the ordeal of childbirth. That too was a long ride, especially the bottleneck on the Mass Turnpike where holidaymakers were jamming up the road to points south such as New York and New Jersey, returning from their New Hampshire and Maine vacations.

I found Sita and Saffi, both exhausted but looking good in the maternity ward, surrounded by family and friends. I finally got to hold little Saffi, her eyes firmly closed and probably hoping she was still in the womb and all these noises and lights would go away. During the night she perks up, when everyone is gone and the lights are dim.

Unlike Faro who was rushed off to specialist care in the nursery, and emerged with tubes coming out and going in several body parts, Saffi was unblemished, although she did have a low-jack box around her ankle to prevent her from being snitched away by a stranger, and bands around both ankles to tell who she was.

We stayed for the week to help Jim with the logistics of another child and a diabetic cat. We held the fort at home while Jim kept his two girls company in the hospital.

Faro took everything in stride although he was barely interested in his new sister, holding her only one for the obligatory ‘new sibling’ picture, including the kiss. But that was enough. He did inquiry whether she was talking and pooping, two important activities in the life of a 3 year old.

New life

Saffi-7.29Just as I was boarding the AF flight out of Lome word came through that our second grandchild had arrived at about 3 PM in the afternoon on Saturday July 25, weighing in at some 8 pounds. I believe her name is Saffi but I can’t get anyone to answer the phone in the middle of the night in Easthampton. I spent the day anxiously waiting for news after hearing in the middle of Friday night that Sita had been admitted to the hospital and that a Cesarean was likely to happen yesterday. I kept beating myself up for not having taken the Friday night flight to Paris, but who could have known? The girl wasn’t scheduled to arrive until August 1.

A long wait

And so I spent Saturday morning, tired from the interrupted sleep and distracted about Sita, with my friend A and his wife at a lovely beach restaurant, relaxing, eating fish brochettes and drinking fresh pineapple juice. We talked about his plans to start a rehab center in Cameroon and how to get ready for the big jump to actually set it up. It would mean leaving his paying job with ICRC and risking the savings from friends and family, his salary and savings, career for the sake of a dream. I encouraged him and added bits and pieces from our course to the conversation. I have never taken such a jump and am not sure I’d have the courage. But then again, I pointed out, just about everything around us, except for the sand, the wind, the flora and sea, started as a glint in someone’s eye. I pointed at his latest model iPhone, yes, that one too. It also carries the message that you don’t get to the supermodel right away, so start small to show that one can deliver the dream in reality. It was a wonderfully inspiring conversation. I promised to support him in whatever way I could.

We left for the airport in the hotel shuttle. A few miles before the airport we encountered a huge crowd of cars (with the opponent of the President at the head, who had apparently just come in on the plane I was to leave on). He was followed by thousands of followers, in cars, in trucks, on motorbikes and on foot. Many were dressed in orange, the color associated with Dutch football fans, playful and dedicated. But these people didn’t look so playful. They stared at us, white folks stuck in the crowd in our little bus that could easily be upturned. I kept hoping that the generally good natured Togolese would stay that way. Still, it remained unsettling to find oneself in an immense crowd of people. I know crowds can easily go from friendly to nasty – we see this over and over on the television.

There was no visible presence of people representing the law; no uniforms anywhere in sight, only self-appointed traffic regulators with whistles in their mouth. But then, as quick as it started, the parade had gone by us and we resumed our trip to the airport. Our very alarmed French passenger let out a sigh of relief. I fear that in the excitement I dropped my travel (smart) phone on the floor. That my phone was missing I discovered too late after having gone through all the security check points. The receptionist at the lounge was not helpful and refused to let me use her phone to get in touch with the driver.

The phone was supposed to receive the signal that the baby had arrived. Now some unknown person has gotten that message, unless the phone is still in the bus but I am not counting on seeing it ever again. I can only hope that whomever found it, if not willing to part, will erase all names and phone numbers. If anyone who reads this gets a sketchy call from Togo, beware. It is not me.

And now I am waiting to board my flight from Paris to Boston. It will be about 14 hours before I will see the new baby. It seems an eternity.


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