Archive Page 61

Devilish

I left Lobster Cove in the rain. Tessa was having her annual birthday party with her friends. She is 30 now and some of her friends have babies and everyone is a lot more responsible with alcohol and fireworks than when they were in their early 20s.

The tent had been set up and this made the rain irrelevant. I took the rain with me to the airport and then it was over.

Tessa warned all the neighbors about the fireworks she had bought. The combination of alcohol and fireworks used to unnerve us a lot. Axel had to carry the nervousness by himself. I learned that the party went as planned and everyone had fun.

Thanks to NyQuil I slept most of the way to Paris, waking up as rested as one could be after a 4 hour sleep. The flight was not very full considering that it is summer in Europe and the Euro is down. This was not the case for the flight to Antananarivo (Tana for short). Luck had it that next to me was a mercurial 3 year old. He fell asleep just before take-off and I considered myself lucky, not knowing that his sleep would last about 10 minutes out of the 11 hour flight.

From that moment on he babbled to himself, sang to himself and tried out new sounds as loud as he could; everything in his loud screechy beginner’s voice.

He also wriggled and kicked and occasionally had a temper tantrum. I felt sorry for the person in the seat in front of him who had to endure all that kicking. The only thing that temporarily quieted him down was a large cookie filled with frosting. He would moan something like ‘cadeau,’ and then his (very young) mom would give him a large kind of oreo (un gateau choco prince). The cookie would temporarily quiet him down but as soon as it was gone he would rev up again. Filled with more sugar, he resumed his screeching and singing and wiggling and kicking. No cartoon or music video could calm him down. My luck!

The processing of our health status and immigration status was confusing, chaotic and took forever as we inched our way through this line and then that. But people were in great spirits, except people like me who had been on the road for 24 hours and had been sitting half the time next to a little devil. A driver from the office was waiting for me but I never saw him – the arrival hall is one large teeming mass with people holding placards; a forest of names and hotels and companies. I never saw MSH and took a taxi; later I found out he was there. I tumbled into bed at 2:30 Madagascar time which was exactly 24 hours after I left Lobster Cove

Cuffs all around

On Monday I visited the shoulder doctor for the 3 months checkup. I had planned to ignore the summons as I find these check-up visits not a good use of time or money, but this time I went. While in Kampala my ‘good’ rotator cuff slipped a little out of its socket and left me with no strength at all in my right arm. This was a problem because I am not supposed to carry anything heavier than a coffee cup with my left arm. Luckily I was travelling with a colleague who carried the stuff I could no longer carry.

Eventually things got better. The rotator cuff must have slipped back in place and slowly my strength, what little I have in my right arm, returned. I started to worry about having to have yet another operation. My physical therapist had a name for what happen, a sub lux, and taught me how to push the rotator cuff back. The doctor told me there was a solution to this problem (in all likelihood created by the overuse of my right arm while the left is recovering); it is a reverse shoulder replacement. I am hoping that this will never be necessary, what with the left arm starting strength training in a few weeks. I am kind of tired of surgeries and the long recovery process of healing tendons and bones.

In the meantime I touched down for two days at work where things are a little bit in limbo because we are changing our organizational structure. I presume that by the time I come back from my next trip, later this month, the dust will have settled a bit more.

Imbalancing acts

During our long drive home yesterday from DC we talked about the weeks I was busy, what I had learned and facilitation assignments ahead. One Big Thing I learned (the same question I asked the conference participants during the wrap up session on Friday) has something to do with balance and imbalance.

In the middle of last week there was a moment where I had completely lost my balance. I was able to look back at that moment and my reaction to the event and realized that imbalance is actually a good thing, even though it may not feel that way at the moment. It was as if I had fallen into a hedge and came out the other end. Behind the edge, in a Secret Garden sort of way, was a whole new field full of interesting vistas promising things I had not thought about before and raising new questions I had not pondered before.

We tend to look for balance in our lives, convinced that balance is a good thing; thousands of books have been written about it. But maybe balance is boring. Falling and getting up, stumbling over things may seem a bad way to move, but if I would be given a choice now, I think I’d continue with the stumbling. All these moments of imbalance in my past, recent and long ago, have made life so much more interesting and have contributed so much to my learning, that I wouldn’t have wanted it any other way.

Back home for a bit

A whole week has passed since I left Kampala. This means I can temporarily halt the taking of anti-malaria medicine.

My next assignment, hardly leaving me a chance to recover from the week in Uganda, was the facilitation of a worldwide technical summit organized by my pharmacists’ colleagues. We looked at the work that has been done over the last 4 years to improve pharmaceutical systems so that medicines are available in health facilities for those who need it. Colleagues from 17 countries joined headquarter staff to extract lessons learned and find out what they need to focus on in the last project year. I had been part of the organizing committee since the beginning of the year and getting the program designed had not been an easy task, but in the end everything came together nicely, the energy was right, we got the outcomes we had hoped for and we had fun in the process.

Axel had driven down to DC, stopping along the way to visit friends and family. He arrived in DC just when I landed from Kampala via Amsterdam and Boston and picked me up to deliver me to my DC hotel. It was like a brief spousal visit before I dove into the conference and he continued his visits with friends.

On Saturday morning we set out for our long drive north, after a good breakfast at the Red Fox deli on Connecticut. The whole day we drove in the rain; it was rather cold given that we are now officially in summer and it is nearly July. We interrupted our trip at Sita and Jim’s for tea before continuing to Manchester (still in the rain). They had just returned from a vacation on Lake Champlain with friends.

We arrived some 14 hours after we left DC to a wet and wild Lobster Cove, which continued to be wet and wild throughout Sunday – perfect for staying indoors and getting ourselves organized for next week which includes Tessa turning 30, the 4th of July and my return to Africa for another 3 week assignment, partially in Madagascar and partially in Togo.

Truth to power

We finished the four day Coaching & Communication workshop for managers, supervisors and coaches who are responsible for reproductive health or other health services. Eighteen participants joined us, coming from the Ukraine, Ghana, Kenya, Tanzania, the DRC and Uganda. We had revamped an older curriculum that was based on a modular approach spread out over a long period of time. It was a test and an opportunity for us to try something new.

As usual I kept exploring and reading until I landed in Kampala to see if there was something newer, something potential more impactful that we could add to the mix of inherited sessions. I revisited and re-read Kegan and Lahey’s book about competing commitments which I sensed was just the antidote for the usual New Year’s Resolutions that we see at the end of workshops (I will work on my listening skills, I will be a better human being, etc.)

We had reserved the last session for exploring of competing commitments and the concept of immunity to change because it required some level of trust and intimacy in the group. We felt we had reached that stage because of the constant practice sessions in trios. By Friday everyone was quite familiar with the daily life struggles and challenges of each other, and recognized how universal they were.

Everyone came with five challenges they had to deal with, related to relationships with peers, with bosses, with recalcitrant or non-performing staff. All of these they considered obstacles to both the quality and quantity of service delivery. This link to services was important because both our funders and their employers had agreed that this workshop would ultimately benefit the users or would-be users of those services. This was an assumption that we had to prove. We engaged everyone in this collective challenge by creating our theory of change which then informed the development of our monitoring and evaluation plan.

We had created several opportunities each day, usually in trios, to apply and practice the various concepts we covered: giving or receiving feedback, coaching, listening, inquiring versus advocating, facilitating learning, repairing relationships, exploring why we often cannot be honest when we have to have the hard talks, and re-writing the scripts of failed conversations.

One recurrent theme throughout the process was the inability to speak truth to power. We could see how, for them, as it is for us on the other side of the Atlantic, not being able to speak truth to power is the cause of many initiatives failing to deliver on promises (at best) or terribly gone awry (at worst) with sometimes catastrophic consequences for individuals or whole populations.

We used aIgnorance is bliss Calvin and Hobbes cartoon as teaching material. Despite Hobbes’ warning that they (Calvin and Hobbes) are heading for a cliff in their red radio flyer, the wild ride continues. Why worry about later when you are having fun now?. Hobbes is speaking truth to power (we are heading for the cliff), but is unable to stop the inevitable and unpleasant conclusion of the ride from happening.

We can all come up with examples of this in real life. The US’ misguided actions after 9/11, the arms race, dictatorial regimes, and, at a micro level, the sons of powerful persons who are never held accountable for raping or impregnating school girls.

Except for a few very brave souls (many of whom either stand to lose their freedom or live(lihood)), most of us reluctantly accept what happens so that we don’t have to fight with our demons or confront our deepest fears. In the immunity to change session some people did get a whiff of those fears. Although they could be real (when the stakes are high) in ordinary life many of our fears are imagined and never put to a test. If we did, and found out that they are unfounded, lots of things would stop to be problems, and many a ride towards a cliff would be diverted in time.

Back to work

I managed to stay away from my computer during most of my vacation week. This worked because there are some very capable people in the office who took over. I had no sleepless nights over this. In fact, I have slept better than ever in the last 6 months because my shoulder is no longer bothering me.

I continue to get high marks from my physical therapist for my progress. I have to watch out not to progress too much because the ‘no weight bearing’ remains in effect until July 27.

On Friday night I was back on a plane to Holland. This time with Tessa and Steve who joined me for my brother’s wedding – a second marriage for both – but celebrated as if it was a first. The only things that gave this away is that there were, between husband and wife, 9 (grown-up) children and no one was in white. We celebrated the melding of two families, or may be even four as the parents of one ex and one deceased spouse were also there. It was a joyous and warm celebration despite the nippy not-quite-summer-night weather. Tessa got to hang out with her cousins, a rare opportunity, and schemed to have everyone come to her wedding next year.

I left the party early to catch up on sleep and prepare for the next assignment, in Uganda, while Tessa and Steve partied on and left for the east of Holland with another brother and his wife, to explore lesser known parts of Holland by bike.

I got up when some had just gone to bed and most of Holland was still asleep to catch a train to Schiphol airport, boarded the plane to Kigali and Entebbe, and arrived at my hotel in Kampala at midnight. The quiet of the night allowed for a swift ride covering the 40 km from Entebbe to Kampala in less than an hour. Apart from the few drunken young men riding on giant Easy Rider type motorbikes, helmless, there was little traffic, a good thing. We let them pass and hoped to not see them again later by the side of the road. We didn’t.

Trying for summer

I have been back for more than a week. It was a rather frantic week with long days and early rises so that I could relax this week which is a vacation week.  So far I have managed to ignore emails for one whole day, Monday!

In the meantime Faro turned 3, last Saturday, a joyous day spent in the Nonotuck park in Easthampton amidst a bunch of 0-3 years old, family and friends and an abundance of food. Faro, who has not been exposed much to sugar discovered cupcakes, and in particular frosting. We are indulgent with birthday kids and so he was able to lick the frosting off at least a few cupcakes before we drew a line.

Sunday we worked in the garden, a good workout after a mostly sedentary life of months, no years. The asparagus are popping up, the leeks and onions are thriving in this wet spring, the potatoes foliage is looking healthy, the spinach not quite discovered by the rabbits and the garlic looks vigorous. The more delicate plants were a little perturbed by all that rain, which followed me from Holland back to the US.

Axel and Tessa returned from their mission to Palm Springs experiencing everything that is wrong with air travel, spending about 24 hours to get back home. Tessa negotiated that half the miles used for the trip got re-deposited, plus some extras, as the delays messed up her work week that is now even more frantic. She too has to clear her desk before she heads out with me to Holland for a more fun occasion, the wedding party of my youngest brother where she has a chance to re-connect with her uncles, aunts, nieces and nephews. She negotiated with me about Steve coming along (he is). She should have been a lawyer!

My big sister Ankie arrived with her husband yesterday afternoon. We celebrated their arrival with Lobster and corn on the cob, strawberries and cream. Except for the weather it is summer!

Revisiting the past

It’s hard to stop the memory machine, my brain, thinking, sometimes even obsessing, about the events of the last few days. It has been hard to fall asleep, despite having skipped a few nights; and then I wake up late, hours past my usual wake up time at sunrise.

I spent 24+ hours in Amsterdam, walking, talking with my friend A. who helped me through the difficult breakup with Peter time 37 years ago. We revisited every corner of our memory in the hope of being able to put all that to bed, including how our relationship had evolved over these three-plus decades.

The weather was nasty on Friday and I felt sorry for the tourists in the canal boats who couldn’t see much through the window panes with the rains streaking against them. If they had only one day for Amsterdam they’d had bad luck.

Saturday was better. We visited the superbly renovated Hermitage museum. An exhibit of Hollanders van de Gouden Eeuw (The Dutch in the Golden Century) revealed how much the current approach to governance has its roots in how wealthy Dutch Burghers organized themselves to govern the country. A basic tenet was that poverty and hunger were bad for commerce because such conditions would only foment dissatisfaction and revolt; as a result a system of caring for the ‘unfortunate’ was put in place by the wealthy burgers as both a Christian obligation and a way to keep the population if not happy, then at least temporarily satisfied and beholden to their benefactors. Over the years this system of paternalistic caring has been handed over to the state, now more as a human right than a gesture of Christian compassion.

When we re-emerged from the museum the sun was out and things looked up. Amsterdam is a great place to walk around and watch people when the sun is out. We had a nice lunch in a tiny place, a simple ‘broodje met oude kaas’ (a roll with old Dutch cheese) and a glass of karnemelk (buttermilk) which is about as good a lunch as one can get.

Back at A’s house we sorted out my return trip by bus to Aalsmeer from where I will return to Schiphol tomorrow.

Endings

Just about the time I landed in Holland yesterday, Axel and Tessa arrived for their sad mission in Cathedral City in the Californian desert. We are now 9 time zones apart and about 40 degrees Fahrenheit in temperature. At my latest check it was 99 degrees in Palm Springs and 59 in Amsterdam.

The man who was the center of my life during my formative adult years was buried yesterday amidst 100s of people. Those included two men who used to be my brothers in law. One had aged to look exactly like his father and the other now without his hippy beard. The niece and nephew I held on my lap as a young bride were now 39 and 41, having their own children, teenagers already.

I remember as a child how boring I found funerals. How could I understand all these grownups traipsing down memory lanes? There were many moments when my eyes met the eyes of others wondering about dates, places, names. Where do we know each other from? There were people who said they knew me because they had been at my wedding in 1975, and there were people who looked just like the men I had fallen in love with way back when (now more or less the age of their fathers).

There was a grieving family standing around the coffin when it was lowered into the family grave.  Three (young adult) children, one just looking the man who I fell for all these decades ago, held each other tight when their father found his final resting place, tears running down their stricken faces. It was too much for most everyone, witnessing this final step in the farewell ritual.

I gave my condolences to the children I never met before, though heard about, and the wife who I had met only once at another funeral 24 years ago when the person who was our best man was cremated. I have now met her twice, each time at a funeral. I think it will be the last time as there is no longer anything or anyone that connects us.

The service was beautiful and non-religious. Peter wasn’t a churchgoer although the chaplain from the hospital who led the service revealed that there had been many conversations, even occasional attendances at his Sunday services in the hospital at an earlier time when my ex-mother in law was dying.

After a crowded reception where I practically lost my voice, his old group of friends gathered at someone’s family summer house, much like the Big Chill, a movie Axel and I watched last weekend.

The house is in Noordwijk on the boulevard that parallels the long beach that runs along a large part of the west coast of Holland. We spent many days there in the early 70s, nights and weekends, laughing, crying, eating, drinking, especially the latter, and walking on the beach. People had brought pictures. There I was, 21 or 22, with long hair, in my hippy bright yellow Levis, a cloche hat and an Afghan lambskin turned coat. Memories came flooding in of those days when we were either over-serious or carefree and when we all paired off in couples; some of those still going strong today while other relationships fell apart before the decade was over, like mine. Peter and I were together for 6 years and married only 3.

I listened to the stories of the friends who accompanied Peter during his last difficult weeks; who saw him in denial and accepting, who talked with his doctors, who saw him lucid and in mortal pain; who held his hands and told him they loved him and then stepped aside for the last farewells with his family. I didn’t see him when he was sick. We exchanged a few emails which were lucid and familiar, his peculiar and cryptic way of writing, nearly shorthand, high context would the cross cultural experts say. But we had had little context in common those last decades and so I didn’t understand all as well as I would have liked it. Just days before his death he shared with me his pride of becoming honorary consult of the People’s Republic of Laos, and the sign next to his front door. Now none of this matters anymore.

Gala

On Tuesday night Axel and I attended the annual Gala dinner of the Boston-Japan Society. The key note speaker was the US ambassador to Japan, Caroline Kennedy. I felt I was in the presence of history. This is exactly what she invoked with stories of her dad and Japan and the war. This August will be the 70th anniversary of the dropping of the bomb. The symbolism of seeing the flags of Japan and the US on a giant screen, backdrop to the sounds of the national hymns of these two nations that were once bitter enemies, didn’t escape anyone. The evening was full of thank you’s and expressions of friendship and collaboration; a true love fest indeed.

The gala is also the occasion of recognizing talent which turned out to be mostly female. The lineup of award recipients consisted, without exception, of people who tend to be marginalized: women and people with disabilities. There was the gifted young pianist (blind) who treated us to some exquisite pieces; the others were all women who had made their mark in Japan and beyond in the areas of finance & economics, teaching & writing, and fashion.

We are not members of this society. Why would we? I have been to Japan a few times, speak just about 3 words of Japanese, and neither one of us can claim any Japanese heritage. Axel’s father didn’t even fight the Japanese; he was busy with the Italians in the Mediterranean. As a result we felt a bit out of place between the women in their elegant kimonos, the flock of giggling skinny and tiny young women, the distinguished looking gentlemen of a certain age (Japanese and American) and the many mixed couples, mostly US men with their Japanese brides.  From the amounts written on the silent auction items it was clear that we were in the company of influence and money (not unlike the sensation I got on the few occasions we attended events organized by the Dutch community in Boston).

Our invite came through one of those mixed US/Japanese couples whose philanthropic foundation has a close relationship with MSH. Our benefactress wasn’t able to come herself. She was busy in Japan selecting the winners from a large pool of applicants for a few highly competitive fellowships. The purpose of these fellowships is to expand the pool of professional mid-career Japanese women who are investing their talents in bringing about social change in Japan. They spend a month in and around Boston learning the ropes of how to run non-profits, an institution that’s not as well developed in Japan.

Last year we were invited to host four fellows for a day and a half at MSH. With a few colleagues (all female as it happened) we created a program that received rave reviews from the fellows. This led to a request for a repeat performance this September, now for 3 days. And that is how we got to the gala.


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