Archive Page 72

Good tidings

After a week of rain and overcast skies the weekend was glorious. We had friends over on their way down from Castine (Maine) to their home on Long Island and took a break from the horrendous vacation traffic up and down the Maine coast.

When we have visitors in the summer we enjoy our beach and waterfront more than when we are alone because there are always so many chores to do. We like having people over and enjoy our place. What we take for granted becomes very special when visitors come and stare in disbelief at our earthly paradise.

Early in the morning I facetimed with Faro to see him ride on his walking bike – in two months he has grown enough that he can now reach the ground with both feet. After that I facetimed my brother who has finally moved in with his love in a lovely house after waiting patiently for their respective children to leave the parental home and selling their two houses. He gave me a facetime tour of the house and it felt as if I was walking through it with him. How wonderful we can do this now so easily.

The son of my friend Lydia showed up with his family (to enjoy the beach) and a friend (to go spear fishing). They wriggled into their wetsuits and then departed with the red and white diving flag floating in tow to keep them out of harm’s (i.e motor and speedboats) way.

They swam all the way from Lobster Cove to Singing Beach, spearing a view tautogs and cunners (bottom dwelling fish I had never heard of) and flounder along the way. They like these fish because they hang out on the bottom and are, I was told, more easily speared than the fast moving fish at the surface. They also make for good dinners. But it does require you hold your breath, that is part of the sport and the challenge. They returned hours later with their catch and filleted it on the beach, leaving us with some of the fish by way of thanks.

While they were hunting, we did the same in a more relaxed manner looking for oysters. Mother nature has deemed it necessary to compensate for the loss of our mussels after she realized that the green crabs, as ingredients for crab bisque, wasn’t appreciated as much. Turning crabs into bisque requires much effort and wading into the cove to empty the trap twice a day. It has been sitting on the floor of the cove for weeks now, serving more as a playground for crabs than a trap. They have figured out how to go in and out with ease.

Axel snorkeled in the emptying cove to places I pointed out from my kayak. The water was very clear and I could see the oysters clearly. We had seen some shells on the beach lately which gave us the idea of taking a closer look. We harvested about 10.
first_oyster

first_oyster_meal

Still, we haven’t given up on our mussels. We transplanted more mussels from Ipswich Bay and expanded the colonies of last years’ transplants. They seemed to have fared well except that the baby mussels keep getting eaten by something, green crabs or, what we learned yesterday, maybe the tautogs and cunners which have sharp teeth and can easily pierce the brittle shells.

Good news awaited us inside as email and phone messages alerted us to progress in Faro’s potty training and Tessa and Steve house buying saga. The poops are landing in the toilet and Tessa and Steve will become homeowners on August 28, becoming residents of New Hampshire, the state where people want to live free or die.

Old(er)

Axel is now 68 and one week. I used to think that 68 was ancient but now of course I think it is young. However, I am acutely aware that my father died when he was 69 and my mother became a widow at the age of 67. Now that we have arrived in that neighborhood it seems unthinkable that suddenly there would be The End.

When we are with others in our age cohort we cannot help talk about this or that ailment. We have become our parents, something we didn’t want, and laughed at, way back. But now of course we understand. Health is the most precious thing we have, to do what we most want to do. Maybe this is why youth is associated with impatience and old age with patience. We have to accept and do things slower than we used to do them. Except my older brother who seems to be in a reverse trend and at age 67 bikes from Holland to Finisterre in Basque land and then does some more with his son(s) to other destinations in Europe that take them out of the flatlands. I am impressed and humbled.

We celebrated Axel’s birthday last week for two days, the second at a Castle Hill picnic enlivened by a salsa band. We danced and ate and met friends. Then Tessa presented a birthday cake fit for a king or queen. She had made it with unmentionable amounts of butter and sugar. I knew that but Axel did not. He surely would have received some demerits from Weightwatchers if they had found out. I was told that when you know the ingredients of something it affects how you digest it. Empirical evidence showed this to be true – I felt like I had a brick in my stomach while Axel felt just fine – we had consumed the same amount.

Break

It seems silly to take a break from Lobster Cove during the height of its best season; to leave on a Friday afternoon with everyone else from Boston, on a sunny day while moving towards rain and dark skies; to sit in traffic and do a one hour trip in 2 hours. But we did it for a reunion of former colleagues who I have known since 1983.

We used AirBnB to find a room during the Beacon to Beach race and Maine’s busiest time, when all other places were either full or very expensive. To our big surprise we found a room for a very reasonable price and a delightful hostess.

After a fabulous dinner, the first one is to re-acquaint and get updates, we are getting ready for the second which is when we can all pretend to be 30 years younger and hold our rowdy/raucous annual general meeting and decide where we will meet next year and call members of the group who can’t be with us, even if the time zones don’t match and people get woken up. It’s punishment for not being present. Another punishment for not being present is being the object of gossip.

Saturday everyone roams around freely until it is dinner time again. We went with Alison to the Shabbat Day Shaker village where the last 3 shakers in the world live. Some of our misinformed stereotypes about he Shakers were corrected. We got to see several of the hundreds of patented inventions (the circular saw, the flat crib brush, permanent press fabrics) that came from this industrious, god fearing, egalitarian and very entrepreneurial community that is now on the brink of extinction.

They are still recruiting and it occurred to me that they offer an interesting alternative to our hectic life. They are living in the world, so it would not be a retreat. Like the Buddhist monks we saw in Sikkim, there is internet, they do online sales of their branded products and you can communicate by text. The only thing that may give some people pause is the ban on the intermingling of the sexes and their very deep faith. But maybe that is exactly what would be attractive to some. axel, who we nearly lost to the singing monks in Vezelay (France) more than a decade ago, was not interested.

Sweet

We had Sita and family over for a few days. She and her friends are preparing a memorial of their friend Shelby next week that includes an extensive show of her artwork.

We benefitted from having Faro over to watch up close his amazing development, especially his linguistic progress. Faro, in his turn, benefits from being at a house that has its own beach and a shallow, self- cleaning, pool – no matter what the tide is – with all sorts of interesting stones and critters.

It was a beautiful day on Saturday. We went to Rockport for its charming Farmers’ Market and got a good supply of maple syrup and pickles; the latter from a company in Salem that makes the best pickles (Maitland), in a spicy and medium spicy version. The juice is a key ingredient for a wicked good dirty martini.

We had our picture taken at Sweet Remembrances, a dress up portrait studio where Sita worked during a summer some 15 years ago. You can pick a style and then the props to match (or not) your theme. We had done this in the past, using clothes from the roaring twenties. Since the choice of clothes for a 2 year old was a little limited we agreed on a mixed Pilgrim/Native American theme. It was quite a production and Faro managed remarkably well, primarily because he had free access to lots of interesting props to play with while we dressed.
A blended pilgrim family

In the afternoon we checked the lobster traps and pulled in two lobsters. The crab trap was empty. The crabs have figured out how to escape if we give them enough time. We were told to check them twice a day but we don’t. The carcass of the 40 pound striper caught during Tessa’s party, was eaten clean. The full-bellied crabs were grazing somewhere else in Lobster Cove. Only a handful of tiny hermit crabs remained in the trap. We are actually not that motivated to catch them because the preparation of the crab bisque is a little cumbersome. We should be more diligent as they continue to eat the baby mussel population, offspring of the mussels we transplanted from Ipswich Bay.

Tessa, Steve, his sister and boyfriend and the dogs joined us on Sunday for a glorious morning on the beach. When it started to rain everyone left and we withdrew into the New York Times Sunday edition and the New Yorker for some quiet time after the invasion.

Upward

You may not believe in Mercury retrograde, but three plane crashes in one week, two of them from cities I frequent (Amsterdam and Ouagadougou)? Although they have nothing in common with each other (seems two were weather related), I do fly through some bad weather occasionally and the Sahara is famous for its unstable air.

People who do believe in this phenomenon point out that it is about magnetic fields. I know, from putting my hotel key card next to my cellphone in my pocket or purse, that magnetic interference disables the card, requiring a trip back to the reception to reset the card. So why would this not happen on a grander scale. Has my internet connection been off a bit these last few weeks?

I am recovering from my pneumonia in fits and starts; it is definitely not a straight line up. Still, like the rates of stocks seen as a graph over time, the trend is overall upward.

I have started to do some work, adding about an hour every day; one a program that is part of a local foundation’s interest in advancing leadership skills for women in Japan – the brainchild of a former MSH executive (and my boss) who passed away unfortunately. But in this initiative her influence continues. I was asked to be part of this because of my work in Japan. It’s exactly the kind o work I love.

I was supposed to have been furiously writing this week about our work with ministries of health around the world on such things as good governance, leadership and management. A series of meetings took place which I missed, making the writing task a little harder as I am missing a lot of context. All this is now postponed till next week. I may do the writing from home where distractions are less than when I am in my cubicle in our ‘office garden’ in Medford.
All

Recovery

I have been convalescing at Lobster Cove since Sunday afternoon. Axel fed me the healthy diet the doctor prescribed: sun, fresh fruits and vegetables. He didn’t prescribe the lobster that Axel had caught on Sunday morning but we had them anyways. Axel has been catching a lot of lobsters lately and so we eat a lot of lobster.

For the fresh vegetables and fruits, the garden is providing us in abundance: lettuce, kale, bok choy, raspberries, and herbs. The blueberries and tomatoes we get from the farm stand as our own crop is not yet ready for harvest.

Today is a day of mourning in Holland as most of the bodies are transported to the town of Hilversum where the identification will take place. In that town two entire families got wiped out. When 200 people fall out of the sky, for a small country like Holland, it affects just about everybody. I followed the Dutch news and saw the memorial at Schiphol. One of the messages read ‘klootzakken’ which literally means the plural of scrotum; a name you give to people you are very angry with.

And then I read this morning about the coup in the DRC with attacks on the airport in Kinshasa, and other strategic points. The attacks came out of left field and took everyone by surprise. One of my colleagues is stuck in a guesthouse. She has a one year old and a husband who are no doubt anxious to see her home. Scary, and a reminder that things are a bit topsy-turvy in the world at the moment.

This reminds me of the day of our plane crash, now exactly 7 years ago. We were told that these kinds of accidents and untoward events happened because of Mercury Retrograde. This is what I know about Mercury Retrograde: Sometimes the other planets appear to be traveling backward through the zodiac; this is an illusion. We call this illusion retrograde motion. Mercury’s retrograde periods can cause our plans to go awry. However, this is an excellent time to reflect on the past. Intuition is high during these periods, and coincidences can be extraordinary. When Mercury is retrograde, remain flexible, allow time for extra travel, and avoid signing contracts. Review projects and plans at these times, but wait until Mercury is direct again to make any final decisions.

So I continue to stay at home and lay low, avoid travel altogether and don’t sign any contracts.

Planes and hospitals

When we traveled to Japan some years ago, during the SARS or Avian flu crisis, I always wondered who in their right mind would step forward and surrender to the white coats, admitting one was sick. Who knew what would happen to you afterwards? But when I landed in Paris on Saturday morning I would have thrown myself in their arms. I was sick as a dog, having a hard time breathing which created panic and more constriction.

I had about 3 hours between flights and dreaded another 7 and a half hour on a plane in my condition. I pondered whether to look for a clinic but by the time I decided I should do so, the track to the clinic was so long and required me to enter France with thousands of other tourists and might have risked missing my flight, so I soldiered on.

It was the longest return trip to the US, longer than my circuitous trip from Mongolia via the DRC. In hindsight, that trip was a piece of cake. Everything is a piece of cake when you are healthy. I tried to limit my coughing, respectful of my fellow travelers. I hate it when I am surrounded by coughers (I actually was on my way out, so that’s maybe where it all started). But the hardest part was the shortness of breath, not being able to take a big deep breath. I had gotten used to the coughing by then.

By the time I landed and exited from the immigration area, Axel said I looked decidedly grey. We resolved right then and there to go straight to the emergency room. And that is where I spent the next 6 hours until they admitted me to the ward around 8 PM.

I wasn’t able to sleep until 10 PM when all the diagnostics were completed. So while I was being poked and questioned I imagined I was upgraded to business class and had a seat that turned into a bed – the same up and down buttons allowed me to pick a position that was most comfortable.

But the food couldn’t compete with the airline food, not even economy class. At 8 PM I was ravenously hungry, not having eaten much during the last 24 hours. I received a plastic box with a cup of chicken salad, 2 slices of wonder bread, a half cup of apple sauce and a small bag of chips (“a joy in every bite”). Emergency services clearly do not think of nutrition as a variable in getting better.

I have not had wonder bread since my youth in Holland. I think it was called King Corn bread and came from America so it was very cool. I thought it was so much yummier than the rough brown bread that I miss so much now. We used it also for fishing bait as it balled up nicely to put on a hook. I was thinking of those fishes going for the white little ball as I chewed my emergency dinner, trying to get the big globs of tasteless white dough to a size small enough to swallow. My hunger made me very impatient.

I was put on nebulizer treatment which made me jittery as if I had an overdose of caffeine. After the third treatment, although super jittery, I was able to relax and breathe a little more easily. I was also put on a drip and started on antibiotic treatment. X-Rays and a scan were made to determine whether I had pneumonia, and if so, what kind. Given the number of countries I had visited in the last 6 months the infectious disease specialist was also called in. Had I been in Ebola territory? Had I been in hospitals and in contact with patients? I explained that in my line of work public health is not about direct patient care. Interesting the doctors said. You have ants in your pants, said the nurses.

Finally, after I had already left the hospital the next day, the confirmation came through: streptococcal pneumonia. I was relieved it was not a virus and the antibiotic treatment is in full swing. It is an excellent time to recover at Lobster Cove.

Throughout the ordeal I counted my blessings: to live in a place that has good care, good hygiene and an insurance that pays. I thought about the many people around the world who have the same affliction until they die or are so miserable they can no longer participate in life. You don’t appreciate good health and health care until you need it. Still counting…

Return

I watched in astonishment and horror the news about the Malaysian flight that went down in the Ukraine. A local conflict brought into many Dutch families’ homes in ways they could never have imagined. It never occurred to me that overflying conflicted places could be dangerous. I will be flying tonight over some turbulent areas too, Mali, Libya.

I try to imagine the reasoning that led to the launch of the missile, if that is indeed what happened. Was it an error? Was it a bet, an overdose of testosterone? We will probably never know.

I have made my way to Ouagadougou after a slightly less restless night but I continue to cough in a way that, I am sure, my fellow travelers tonight will not like. I reserved a day room in a small guesthouse recommended by a friend. It is very cute, very African in the way foreigners would characterize African – wrought iron furniture, nice textiles, tiles, wooden statues and art. It also means there is a mosquito net which one finds rarely in African hotels. I was told by the management of the hotel I stayed in on my way in, and the same chain also in Bobo, that guests don’t like mosquito nets because they say it unhygienic. I find that rather surprising given that my bed has a blanket that I doubt gets washed between customers. The pillows and mattress, once you look under the covers, are rather gross and the shower curtain had not been washed in weeks, if ever, slippery with mold.

I was picked up at the airport by a taxi sent by the guesthouse. It was an old Mercedes that, after some buffing, would have done nicely in an antique car parade in the US. The driver too, he was also antique, wiping the windows with a dirty old rag so I could see the city.

It has been raining heavily which means the temperature is below 30 and people are happy. Unlike in Holland where, if you are not a living from the land, rain is seen as a disturber of plans; here it is a source of joy and life.

Waiting

The weather is a little cooler than yesterday; there is a breeze, but other than that, in the middle of the day, everyone seems to be waiting. Everything has slowed down. We are in the middle of the holy month of Ramadan. Those who fast are waiting for the sun to set. I am waiting to leave for home and the hotel staff is waiting for people to ask them something. The general feeling of lethargy is all around; so well described in Naipaul’s Bend in the River, though there is slightly more action in Bobo.

After a meeting in the office to tie up loose ends and review our work, past and future, I said my goodbyes and returned to my hotel to take a nap. It didn’t do me any good. i went for a short walk to pull some more money out of the wall. On the way back I walked past the two supermarkets. I felt like buying an ice-cream to give my throat some relief but the supermarkets still close several hours in the middle of the day – I would have to wait. I remember that supermarkets used to be closed when we lived in Dakar, decades ago – everything stopped during the middle of the day. Nothing has changed.

Then and now men lie on their traditional African chair planks, one plank inserted in another at a 120 degree angle – sometimes they scratch their crotches – it is the one pervasive image I have of African men that stands in sharp contrast to the women – always busy taking care of stuff or earning money. I watch the young men across from the hotel. Some sit in the same position for hours, never moving. They chat with other men and I wonder how they earn a living. Sometimes, when I cannot sleep at night I look out on the street, and there they are, still in the same position. It may be 1 o’clock in the morning. It is one of the big questions I have – why don’t the women put them to work?

The lethargy also creates a sense of ‘never mind,’ or que sera sera,’ a fatalism that whatever comes will come. Of course all this pertains only to the men I see in the street. Office men, functionaries, professional staff work hard, or at least they say they do. It has been a long time since I actually made 9-5 days in an African office and things have changed. With internet there’s always work.

I returned to the hotel, not wanting to wait for the supermarket to open. I am not even sure they have ice cream. Their dairy and vegetables cases are mostly empty, reminding me of Soviet stores in the early 70s –and I probably should not trust ice cream in a climate as hot as this one – I am sick enough as it is.

The lethargy has spread to me. My respiratory troubles make me not want to spend any energy on anything – it’s too much of an effort. But I don’t want to sleep either; afraid I have another sleepless night. And so I just wait, watch the hours go by. It is probably exactly what my body needs right now.

Dragging along

My body has made it very clear that this travelling should stop. People have been asking me how do you do it, and in this trip the answer is revealed, not well. Yesterday I dragged myself through the day, sputtering and coughing with very low energy. I was relieved when the day ended and went to bed early in the hope of a good night sleep. But the night brought little relief as my body kept reminding me that I am not well and shouldn’t be here, but rather in lobster cove, being attended to by my best friend.

I keep drinking enormous quantities of hot water, lime and honey but it feels less effective now, aside from hydrating me in this warm place where temperatures remain in the upper 30s.

The explosion in Ouaga has been explained in different ways but I was glad to learn it was not the beginning of the revolution. Some said it was an error, others it was revenge.

The workshop concluded with a reformulation of the projects that the remaining people will focus on. I will support the group and my colleague from afar and he is, at least according to the budget, on his own for the next workshops. Although I cannot come to his aid in person, I hope I can help get some support for him as doing this on his own would be more than a small challenge.


March 2026
M T W T F S S
 1
2345678
9101112131415
16171819202122
23242526272829
3031  

Categories

Blog Stats

  • 140,394 hits

Recent Comments

Olya's avatarOlya on Cuts
Olya Duzey's avatarOlya Duzey on The surgeon’s helpers
svriesendorp's avatarsvriesendorp on Safe in my cocoon
Lucy Mize's avatarLucy Mize on Safe in my cocoon
Spoozhmay's avatarSpoozhmay on Transition

Enter your email address to follow this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email.

Join 78 other subscribers