Archive Page 79

Another world

The best thing about Air France is its lounge in Paris where, in a spacious section of Terminal E, an army of waitresses and cleaners try to make your stay as comfortable as possible. This includes changing the menu of the food buffet according to the time of day. After pain au chocolat and croissants, artisanal brown bread with raw ham, yogurt fruit and more, lunch consists of soup, salad, cheese platters, roasted veal, couscous salad and fancy pastries. All this, if you want, arrosé de bon vin français, or champagne. I did not take advantage of the Clarins treatment room where you can relax while consuming Clarins products. Even without that my six hour wait was quite pleasant and passed quickly.

But that’s about all AF has going for it. In the plane the seats were so close together that when the seat in front of me went back it hit my chin. Like in a line of dominos, you cannot have one person sit up straight; if the person in the front reclines, everyone behind has to recline. The flight was only pleasantly interrupted by another great meal. Still, I take Delta anytime over AF. I hope they ask me to comment on the flight in an après-flight email, so I can say this officially.

We arrived at Burkina Faso’s international airport at 8 PM with a temperature of 35 Celsius. In about 24 hours I had gone from 35 Fahrenheit to 35 Celsius. It’s a big change.

The airport is visible from all sides by a giant neon sign that someone had fun with programming. It never says more than one word at a time so you may see ‘International’ or ‘airport’ or ‘Ouagadougou.’ Sometimes the words fly in from one or another side, sometimes they overlap making it unreadable altogether, and the typeface changes from New York Times Gothic to Courier to Arial. It was an interesting neon ballet to watch while I waited for my shuttle driver to take me to my hotel in the oppressive night heat.

This is my 5th trip to Burkina in over 2 decades. Last time I was here in 2001. At that time there were no smart phones here and internet access was hardly expected. In fact, I am not sure I traveled with a computer at that time, being somewhat of a Luddite as I saw my computer carrying colleagues struggle with unsolvable problems.

Now, smart phones are everywhere – business men clutch two at all times – and cell companies are now internet companies and advertise everywhere competing for market share. But other than that, Ouagadougou doesn’t seem to have changed a whole lot – no high rises that had transformed the cityscape. The airport remains sleepy and small with a row of small shops (a butcher shop for all your chicken and meat needs when travelling), a tiny parking and a rather informal feel to it. Although the security merchants have sold Burkina all the gadgets one could want.

The round eyeball cameras to take your picture and the green neon-lighted finger print machines are here too. The immigration people are still stamping your passport by hand but everything else is computerized.

On and Off

“You were hardly home!” said Axel when he dropped me off. He is right. After the Philippines there was DC and then just a few days before I was back at Logan airport. I did manage to put in four workdays and spent some time with Faro. Jim and Faro had come to Manchester to reunite with Sita, who also has hardly been home. Since my last post she went and came back from India with a rush of other jobs before that, at the Harvard Business School, then Toronto and then Harvard’s School of Public Health. She’s quite the Harvard girl these days.

We went from Washington’s warmth to cold and dreary Massachusetts. The week was filled with angst and grief about last year’s marathon bomb, countless memorial services and radio programs that exploited and explored every possible angle of the tragedy. As if this wasn’t sad enough all by itself, the weather turned wintery and on Thursday morning I woke up to a snow covered landscape. I had to hack the ice from the car. Imagine that, April 17!

April snow

April snow

I am now on my way to warmer weather; Burkina Faso for a week, followed by two weeks in Ivory Coast. It will all be leadership development work, aimed at getting a good pool of local (and mostly French speaking) facilitators in the region.

Warm, pink and 34

CB_DC1

CB-DC2The days in DC raced by. That happens when you have a short vacation in between work trips. Friday was dedicated to art and crafts and an old friend whose art and craft we have seen develop and morph over the last 33 years.

The Smithsonian Craft Fair is spectacular; both in its setting (the Building Museum) and the skills and artistry of its exhibitors. We marveled at the craft(wo)manship that can create such beautiful things. The pieces were for sale of course but one has to have a particular kind of display space in one’s house, plus deep pockets. Our cluttered house would not be approved and our means are not sufficient anyways.

I picked up my passport at the MSH office and then we headed out to the burbs to hang out with Ruth whose house is full of pieces from several of the exhibitors bartered over the years for her exquisite fiber and glass work, plus work from herself and her son who is also working in glass. She does have the display spaces but also, and this is scary, two grandsons. The older one had a friend over which quadrupled the franticness of one three year old. She remained entirely cool amidst the mayhem – an act I do not think I could follow, especially in a place with that much priceless pieces (and most breakable).

Saturday was our 34th wedding anniversary which we celebrated three times: first at breakfast with a very special birthday bagel, each with a candle, then at lunch Japanese style pikou-nikou (sushi and a blue blanket) in the Kenwood section of DC where all the lanes look like pink tunnels produced by some very old gnarled trees in full bloom, and finally at a restaurant in Cleveland Park. Our friends knew the manager which produced all sorts of surprises in addition to a spectacular meal. It will be hard for our 35th next year to trump this.

And now, after a 10 hour drive north, we are back in winter with a snowstorm (really?) predicted for later this week. We are back to coats and sweaters. It is hard to remember the taste of summer we had those last few days.

Summerland

It took us 11 hours, rather than the 9 hours the GPS promised us, to get from Boston to DC, from winter to spring, from work and chores to vacation.

Axel did most of the driving. I am good for getting us into and out of cities but can’t handle the long monotony of turnpikes – I would fall asleep. We shortened the time by listening to what our friend Edith calls ‘a cozy mystery’ but there were too many names and characters to remember so I cannot retell the story. For the ride back we have a Christmas Blizzard by Garrison Keillor and Aravind Adiga’s White Tiger, each about 6 or 7 hours of narration. We will have to choose.

Wednesday was a workday, but an easy one – mostly hanging out with colleagues from our projects in Africa and Asia – some people I knew well and others that required introductions.

Thursday was the first vacation day which I started with a sleep-in till 12:30 PM – I don’t think I have slept that long in a decade. We spent a good chunk of the afternoon in the metro going to and from Alexandria’s torpedo factory where our friend Ruth has a gallery of fiber and glass art.

It is warm and balmy here – people wear summer clothes – the kind I only wear on trips abroad it seems. If only this weather would stay, and not get hotter, DC would be a fine place to live.

Governing our town

Last night we partook in one America’s oldest democratic processes, Manchester’s Annual Town Meeting. Our current process emerged out what was initially a matter of the church, with matters of town and church one and the same. The church elders, supposedly wise and god-fearing men, would create the agenda and then vote on it. Although greed and aberrations like the witch trials did happen, by and large these meetings were aimed at securing the ‘common wealth.’ With families intermarrying (as one can see from the gravestones) interests were intertwined and what was good for these men was supposed to be good for all. It was a paternalistic and patronizing system that survived for a very long time (and sometimes I think it is still there).

Somewhere between then and now towns and churches separated and the business of running the town became a secular affair. Still, our annual town meeting still starts with an invocation, a request to God to bless our decision making process. After 1876 the first edition of Robert’s Rules of Order appeared which are now standard practice. But they are not Roberta’s Rules of order and they have a certain cerebral masculinity about them. The process is stilted and allows for serial monologues and very little evidence of people listening to each other – rather people waiting in line to say their mostly well prepared speeches. It’s is funny that I can only remember the more spontaneous comments by the women in the assembly – but all comments, whether applauded or not, tend to fall like lead balloons in a sandbox – and there they stay. There is no dialogue as messy exchanges are taboo in a process that is based on Order.

And so I marvel and wonder about this particular New England democratic process where people vote on what is brought to the table by a fraction of the audience. They are the ones who have done the homework and are well versed in the issues. We are asked to validate what they put before us and our ‘aye’ is a vote of trust. But sometimes trust gets dented a bit and then things are not so smooth anymore and implementing the idea of self government is no longer easy.

Now we have oldtimers who want to preserve the town of old and the wealthy newcomers who have bought the multi million mansions built by the rubber and train barons of the 1900s, or tore them down and built McMansions. Interests are widely divergent, proposals are full of emotion, opinions are presented as facts, and figures are interpreted in ways that suit the cause pursued. You can do anything with numbers I learned a long time ago. We couldn’t possible get through the agenda in one night.

I suspect that most minds already made up beforehand. The real work of course, as in democratic government anywhere, is done long before the actual voting takes place. So in some way this town meeting provides the illusion of participation but it is a very superficial kind of participation, mine included – I got a lot of knitting done.

Axel is more involved and attended meetings beforehand; he writes letters in the local paper and huddles with others about how to deal with the tension between short term wishes and long term debt. The numbers are staggering, I think, for a small town.

The most controversial items were related to the donation of forty+ acres of land; a big chunk of ledge land that has, as per stipulation in the gift, to be converted into playing fields that will cost us 5 million dollars to be paid off over the next 15 years with money that will come partially from our own wallet. For this purpose we increased the Conservation Preservation Act (CPA) tax to 3% something that Axel tried to get passed more than a decade ago. At that time the voters grudgingly accepted one half percent; now, with the gift and field dangling in front of us, the 3% proposal was given a resounding ‘aye’ without any discussion. It seemed that the whole town came out to vote on this; it kept us busy till nearly 11 PM. We will miss tonight’s continuation of the town meeting but attendance will probably drop off a lot as the controversial issues have been decided or moved to the ballot later in May.

Back

I arrived in a cold Boston and was picked up by our friend Edward who now has a livery service. His car has neon lighting under the dashboard and in the cupholder (why?) and one can change the color from pink, to purple, blue, red, yellow and white (why?). The heated seat was nice as I was thoroughly chilled from my few minutes waiting at the curb. I choose the color blue for the lighting to stay with the theme of ‘cold.’

Axel was still in Toronto where he attended the annual meeting of Sita’s Valueweb. We were both invited but I choose the Philippines instead. As a result Axel drove to and from Toronto on his own – returning late Saturday evening, leaving me the day to unpack and settle into normal again.

Sita flew in from Toronto in the afternoon and was picked up by Jim and Faro who then headed to Lobster Cove and stayed the night. Faro was sick for the very first time in his young life (just after I noticed that this kid had never been sick). He seemed not perturbed by it while his parents were.

Faro has learned to say van Gogh the Dutch way with the scratchy ‘g’ that Americans can’t really handle. He responds to the question ‘who is your favorite painter?’ with the correct pronunciation, not the American ‘Van Goh.’ Sita and Jim are determined to have him sufficiently fluent in Dutch to play with his second cousins when we all get together 2 years from now to celebrate the 100th anniversary of Faro’s over-opa ‘Plop.’

Rewards

photo 3Manila-pedi

just_rewardsWe ended the managers’ meeting with some wonderful comments from participants who told us they got a lot out of it even though we were rather critical of the design. If a doctor tells you that he realizes there is a whole service delivery system that needs to be in place for other caretakers and technical folks outside his consultation with the patient, then you know you have scored.

Filipinos are big into social media, especially facebook, and picture taking. Something it took a long time to get from one side of the room to the other or even to the bathroom because at every step there was someone with a camera and people lined up for a picture. The handing out of certificates required pictures to document handshakes and smiles from multiple angles.

We had earlier said goodbye to our lead trainer who was heading off to Vietnam where M will join her so I got a promotion to lead trainer and was in charge of the speechifying and certificates and thus subjected to the picture taking. But that was only fair since M played that role last week.

M and I celebrated the completion of our assignment and claimed our just rewards in the form of a pedicure, followed by a Korean dinner, followed by one of the exquisite and artful pastries we had been eyeing in the hotel lobby since we arrived. Of course we should have had one but we couldn’t make up our mind which to choose and took two which we only half ate. As with many of these pastries, they look nicer than they taste and they are much too big. I had the second half at the airport, all 2000 calories I believe, and am full for the ride home.

It was a short night; the taxi picked me up a little before 4 AM. I had expected a swift ride to the airport through an empty city but was mistaken. Although the ride was fairly swift, the city was all but empty. Our hotel is located on the edge of what looks like a popular entertainment district with many side walk eateries, hawkers, karaoke bars, 24 hour massage places and ladies of the night. The place was hopping with sidewalk cafes full to overflowing and neon lights blinking to entice passersby inside.

At the airport there were long lines to get in, long lines to get checked in and checked out. I had once again asked for a wheelchair (now I now it is a transport wheelchair, not for daily living use) and was wheeled swiftly past the lines by my handler Erwin. I was upgraded for the two short flights that bookend the long one from Japan to Detroit – for that one I return to a middle seat in the back. You get one you lose one.

Fish lips, eel and bamboo pith

The stakeholder workshop, where I was given pretty much free rein, is over and now I am piloting a managers workshop design where the reins are quite taut. I found myself procrastinating, balking at having to read a script. I kept postponing the preparation for the sessions assigned to me until early this morning when time was up. And even though I had prepared my 50 minutes, once I stood in front of the class I forgot my lines and improvised in a way that made sense to me. Even though I did engage with the participants, more than my lines suggested, it didn’t feel right.

Our lead trainer is now quite familiar with the approach and design; not only has she been immersed in using the manuals that we have to work from for some time now, and completed a five day workshop on basic wheelchair training just last week, as a PT she also know the technical and clinical side of things really well. This in stark contrast with M and I who are learning as hard as the participants. I still have to prepare for my last session on monitoring and evaluation (I know something about that). Once again, I am procrastinating, preparation postponed to sunrise.

I am quite tired and full from our 2nd Shabu-Shabu/hotpot meal. The menu consists of 95 items displayed in alternating white and yellow lines, like an excell spreadsheet. I was given a pencil and make our selection, like on a sushi sheet. The wait staff didn’t really speak English and so we were on our own. We were both intrigued and put off by things like black fungus, chix leg mushroom, tao pao, Taiwan pechay, polonchay, sotanghon, mini ngoh hiang, fried fish skin, squid balls, pork intestine, pork vein, pork kidney, pork liver and beef tripe

We felt very brave to order the fish lips, crab roe balls, and bamboo pith. M is one of those rare Americans who likes eel so we had one fished out of a tank sitting on the sidewalk and presented to us for approval, slithering through the fish catchers hand. Five minutes later it appeared elegantly dressed (but still raw) on our table before it was dumped, head and all, into the hot pot. There was local lettuce (a disappointing pile iceberg leaves), leathery bean curd sticks, rice noodles, small sweet local scallops, wontons, dumplings and thinly sliced beef. It was a little much for three people but not filling in the way an Italian overdose would be.

lobster_in_bottle

black-eel_live

Black_eel2

Catalyzed

Time flies when you are having fun. We started the stakeholder alignment meeting yesterday and now it is already over. We had expected about 50 people but had many more. Some had not answered M’s emails and so we assumed they weren’t coming. And then they did show up and brought others along.

M provided a fabulous buffer between me and the work inside the conference room and the haggling outside about this and that, per diem, requests for a room, hotel staff orders and surprises. She handled all these with grace and a smile, even if sometimes she wasn’t feeling so smiley inside. I knew nothing of this and just noticed we had a group that seemed larger than 50. Towards the very end they were all still there as no one wanted to leave unless they really had to.

The room was quite full with 8 round tables that left little maneuvering space for the many wheelchair users but everyone was graceful and patient.

By the second morning the catalytic nature (and intent) of the meeting was already clear. Connections had been made and ideas bubbled up everywhere. Someone had already posted on her facebook what was happening. I am not sure everyone understands how facebook works so I encouraged them to ‘like’ each others’ posts to expand the circle exponentially.

The design worked exactly as I had expected and surprised everyone else. Once designed the hard work for me was done and started for the participants but many never realized it was work. The atmosphere was congenial and collaborative – but what else could it be when the focus is on what everyone wants? To me that is not a surprise but to those used to powerpoint presentations by people who talk too much, who dictate or pontificate, the idea that a meeting like this could be fun and fly by in no time, was entirely novel.

Having done such events many time, a few things were quite remarkable about working in the Philippines: the ability of the participants to design and execute a report on group work in the form of a performance (including songs) in a very short time; the willingness to take on tasks and sign on to take a lead role (rather than people volunteering each other) and ignoring breaks entirely and forgetting all about time.

We are now moving into the next activity which is entirely scripted by a WHO team that is piloting the design in different parts of the world. This is hard for me, to stick to a tight sequence and line by line instructions. Part of me doesn’t want to prepare for this and I have postponed getting ready for my sessions until the last minute – not my usual modus operandi.

Preparing to roll

With a business center that doesn’t quite live up to its name we ventured out on Sunday afternoon to the biggest mall in Asia to find a copy place. A scary undertaking as the mall stretches over acres and acres and it was Sunday. But we lucked out and the copy and printing places were close together right by the main entrance and the crowds just started to thicken when we left.

While M took care of business I lounged around in a pretend French café and sampled, now fully informed, a cronut, leaving half for M who joined me when the copying and printing was done. She is learning slowly that everything – EVERYTHING – is prepared with loads of sugar. If you don’t say anything that’s what you will get – it’s the default.

While she was working I was eyeing the sushi assembly line restaurant across the walkway – it was lunch time after all. Close up the sushi on the moving small colored dishes didn’t look quite as appetizing as from a distance so we ordered a la carte: salmon sashimi, seaweed salad and a tuna temaki. I am in seventh heaven in this place with sushi and sashimi at every corner. The green tea was unsweetened when I emphasized this but (over)sweetened when I got my refill, triggering the default.

I finally, after a week, tried the workout facilities and swimming pool that is part of my view, five floors down. The gym was hot but I managed to bicycle for 15 minutes, followed by what can hardly be called a swim when you have to dodge small Japanese boys with giant tubes around them and two large Lebanese men occupying the middle ground. M set out to exercise but gave up quickly because of the heat and went, presumably, back to work.

We met up later in the day with our research colleagues and sampled the national dish, chicken and pork (always and everywhere pork) adobo. Tasty, sweet and salty. After dinner we checked out the conference room and prepared the name tags and hand-outs. We are ready for the first ever Philippines stakeholder meeting to take the agenda for mobility-challenged individuals forward. It’s ready-to-roll time.


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