Archive Page 87

Jailbreak

Our host took us on a grand tour of Karachi, which included a bazar that wasn’t all that different from the bazar in Kabul or Mazar, no surprise of course, since much of what is being sold in Afghanistan comes from Pakistan or China.

Shopkeepers were only mildly inclined to negotiate, which was surprising given that the place is not exactly overrun by tourists. My colleague bought some silver and we all bought tiny decorated leather mules (think Aladdin) for small relatives. I bought Faro a model of a Pakistani oil tanker, decorated just like the real thing we see everywhere on the roads. They used to ply the Afghan highways when we travelled there in the late 70s but many have disappeared and now I know where they went. They are all here.

I am sure I will have to hide the oil tanker until he is 3, no doubt painted with lead paint and the many dangly decorations that can easily be bitten off. And the little mules look very uncomfortable, so both will be out on a shelf, decorative items.

We visited the popular beach where families gather to wade into the ocean, make sand castles, look for shells and pick nick just like they would elsewhere in the world. The only thing that made this Pakistan were the outfits, the decorated camels, the decorated buses and trucks, the dancing monkeys and snake charmers. The sand sculpture of a well apportioned mermaid was the only thing that seemed a little out of place.

We ended our tour with a kebab, raita and lassi lunch at BBQ Tonight. When we discovered BBQ tonight in Kabul we didn’t know it was an unauthorized version of a chain that extends all the way to Nairobi. Kabul was not on the display of BBQ Tonight restaurants that flanked its entrance. But the food was in the same league, excellent. Our host counseled against getting the Afghan part of the menu, “everything is cooked in lamb fat!” Oh how true I knew that to be!

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Out and about in Pakistan

Yesterday we finally made it out of Sheratonland into Karachi and Pakistan, modern Pakistan that is. Modern Pakistan feels a bit like Dubai. We went to the mall which was as fancy but not as filled as the minor malls in Dubai – the same stores, many even the same as in the US. The only local touch was provided by the countless shalwar kameez and fabric stores. Pakistan is a major textile producer and processor. The designs and colors are blinding, extravagant and original.

We had lunch at the food court which could have been anywhere. We ignored the western chains and drifted towards the subcontinental ones. Chowpatty served me a vegetable thali with a lassi – at least it felt as if I was on the subcontinent.

This evening we went to a brand new park called Port Grand, according to a plaque, created by a leisure corporation and opened by two important functionaries in May 2011. It is landscaped around the harbor and under the freeways, prettied up with candelabras dangling from the freeway concrete and with small entertainment kiosks along the walk ways. Entertainment includes Tarot readings and astrologers who promise to turn your bad times into good times. Food stalls and medium fast food restaurants line the water’s edge on a pier with Yanni music blaring loud into our ears. Only the fancy shalwar kameezes of the women and girls and a few men in traditional garb gave away that we were in Pakistan.

I am learning that the shalwar kameez fashion is very long again, ankle length. When I wore my long bangladeshi outfit in 2008 local girls snickered about how out of fashion I was – the tunics then being very short. So here too the hemline goes up and down, except this has no bearing on what is revealed of the legs, since underneath are always the pants, baggy or tight.

We ate at a kebab place overlooking the harbor and taking in the harbor smells (mostly kerosene). We tried a variety of kebabs, fish, mutton, beef and chicken. Except for the naan it was an all animal protein dinner – I have drifted far away from my mainly vegetarian diet in the US. We finished our dinner with kulfi (local ice-cream) on a stick that came out of a wooden box, and masala chai variations cooked on small burners by Paxtuns who didn’t speak a word of English. All the while we shook hands with giggling girls on an evening stroll with grandma. We often forget in the US that terrorist-producing places like Pakistan have grandmas on evening strolls with their granddaughters, licking fast melting ice-cream from a stick.

Earlier in the morning we met the senior staff of the organization we are having a workshop with next week and aligned expectations. In the middle of that I had a coughing fit – I am still recovering from a nasty cold that either came from fellow travelers or from my grandson.

Afternoon naps are still a must – the long trip and the cold really took a bite out of me. And then of course I stay up till long past midnight, trying to get back in a rhythm. It is good that we have some slack time.

Dubai-Karachi

From Amsterdam to Dubai I made good progress on a piece of embroidery that has been in the works for two years now, while listening to books on tape downloaded from the Manchester library on my iPAD. It made for a very fast 5 hour flight.

Dubai was quieter than I had expected, with nearly as many sales people, trying to get us to buy things we don’t need, as passengers. Dubai is full of memories of our many trips in and out of Kabul. Despite its bad rap, we have always liked the place (though not necessarily the airport). If you can let go of the rampant materialism you can marvel at the mingling of races, (life)styles, ideologies, traditions and dress that are stirred together in this ancient crossroads. I had dinner at midnight in a restaurant chain that serves fried seafood next to raw seafood. It is the same chain in which I had one of my last meals in South Africa about a month ago, only this time there was no beer or sake served alongside the sushi.

The flight from Dubai to Karachi, which I had dreaded, thinking it would be like the flights to Dhaka, turned out better than expected. The people who travel to Karachi are quite different from those who travel to Dhaka – more western dress, more English speakers and more cosmopolitan. I also had three chairs to myself and slept through most of the short flight (1.5 hours).

The airport in Karachi was jam packed with long lines at the immigration hall. One young American woman was sheparding 23 American/Pakistani kids into the country, apologizing left and right as she was figuring out how the immigration officials handled groups (they didn’t). I thought she was brave to have volunteered for the job and wished her well. There was a special line for unaccompanied ladies and children, which I joined, bypassing hundreds of men, many apparently coming back from a pilgrimage to Saudi Arabia.

The nice young man from the Sheraton greeted me inside the arrival hall, which was wonderful once I left it and saw the packed crowds outside with rows and rows of mostly men, pressing on flimsy gates.

Outside the air smelled of roses. The ground was covered with red rose petals. My young guide explained that it had something to do with the pilgrimage. I love arrival halls at airports mostly because of the happiness and affection that is displayed as passengers are greeted by family, friends and well-wishers. This place was no difference except for the added carpet of rose petals and the thick rose fragrance that overwhelmed the usual smell of jet fuel, hot asphalt and car exhaust fumes.

Once we left the airport, the traffic jam dissolved and we drove into town on nearly empty roads. It was dark and I couldn’t get a good sense of the city. What I saw reminded me of Dhaka but also of Abidjan and Entebbe, a generic developing country metropolis. The bill boards for luxury items, the high rises, the McDonald strategically placed across from the arrival hall, as well as my Sheraton pick up man, with his dreams of getting an electrical engineering PhD in Australia are of one world; black-clad veiled women, clustering around their menfolk dressed in traditional garb with their wild and sometimes henna-ed hair and beards are of another world altogether; still, all of it is Pakistan. I sympathized with those who try to govern this place.

The Sheraton hotel is hidden behind a high wall guarded by men in uniforms with guns and equipment to detect bombs. Once you are let in you can believe you are in a small town with a short but quiet road passing small shops. More security to get into the hotel itself, though the metal detector didn’t detect my metal ankle brace. Since our workshop is in this hotel we may actually not experience all that much what Karachi is all about.

Wet and sweet Holland

I landed in Holland after a seemingly endless descent through thick cloud cover. It made me think about the early aviators who didn’t have instruments and had to find ‘holes’ in the clouds, sometimes discovering that the hole was only a few feet above the ground. Some of these descents didn’t end well.

Below the clouds everything looked very wet. Holland is a land of water, existing because of and in spite of the water. I once translated a famous Dutch poem about Holland. It is all about water too, and low skies. The poem makes me a little homesick. But I am no longer used to low hanging skies and water. I generally prefer Massachusetts.

The KLM lounge is a pleasant place to hang out between flights. I can eat stuff I miss in the US, such as ‘poffertjes’ (tiny one inch pancakes), mini ‘stroopwafels’ (thin flat waffle cookies stuck together with molasses), ‘speculaasjes’ (spice cookies), ‘krentebollen’ (raisin rolls) that are best with a slice of old Dutch cheese in the middle and cream puffs, filled with real whipped cream – I had a few too many of those. And now there is even ‘muntdrop’ – a large jar filled with my favorite kind of licorice. It is no wonder that I gain on average 5 pounds during a trip. I had just lost the five pounds from my previous trip and so I can start all over again. After posting this two hostesses came around with a platter with (raw) herring, also on my top Dutch foods list; and there was more, small tubes filled with ‘osseworst’ and ‘filet americain,’ two raw meat spreads, like steak tartare, that I miss much in the US.

You can also take a shower which is a nice way to pass the time while washing off the previous flight and get ready for the next 6 hours in a small cramped space.

And now it is time to turn my attention to the Pakistan work. We will be working with an organization that looks very together. I am not sure it needs any help related to organizational functions, my department. My colleague from Johns Hopkins will focus on social and behavior change communication approaches, products, strategies and techniques. That’s where the real work might be.

Learning Dutch

I am on the road again, after a glorious Indian Summer weeks in Manchester. We were surprised by a visit from Sita, Jim and Faro on Friday night which allowed us to check out his increasing vocabulary. He now copies every word we say. He is retaining some Dutch word, which would probably have been incomprehensible to all but his parents and myself. I taught him about milky tea, een kopje thee, which sounds something like ‘kupatay.’ We know he is speaking Dutch and liking brown bread cubes withh Marmite and milky tea, just like a Dutch kid would.

My sister sent me a wonderful picture book that has all sorts of land- and seascapes, each one having four things in common, not always obviously so: a fakir on a flying carpet, a yellow balloon, a blue delivery truck and an prisoner on the run. Faro is entirely pre-occupied with the blue truck. His boy brain seems to be wired to recognize trucks. I keep telling him the Dutch word for yellow balloon, he recognizes it but speaks about a lello balou-balou. So we have a ways to go. But expanding the Dutch vocabulary in the face of such fast advances in English makes me wonder whether I can keep up with this. I went through this decades ago and gave up. But people tell me not to, this time.

I did not get the chair re-upholstered before my departure but I was able to put most of the chair back together, more or less as it was, without piping here and there. I am pleased with the results, recognizing the flaws that no one else seems to notice. Something stuck from my upholstery education all these years ago.

Tricky business

I made a quick trip to Washington to facilitate a one day event where reproductive health professionals came together to explore some very tricky business. How does one raise awareness about sexual and reproductive health among young people living in urban slums, in poverty, orphaned or near orphaned with none of the kind of support systems that are associated with resilience.

Researchers shared their findings that showed that the catchall term of urban youth is not that helpful as it hides significant differences. Another reported on attempts to quantify girls’ vulnerability so that we can come up with baselines and endlines, evaluating whether this or that project actually reduced this vulnerability; and then we listened to people working with urban youth groups in Baltimore, DC, Nigeria, Mozambique, Kenya, Malawi and a multitude of other places.

We had structured the design so that my facilitation job was rather easy. An associate of Sita provided the scribing that she usually does – she was engaged someplace else – and wowed the participants with his translation into images of what was discussed. I am now so used to having a scribe in the room that I cannot imagine doing such a forum without one.

Tasks and pleasures

More than a week has passed; a week that was too full for taking time out to write. I am losing my habit of writing but something has to give. I intend to make this a rare occasion.

The free sidewalk chair has been stripped from its upholstery, each and every one of the 1000s of staples removed, ironed, measured and the copied on the new fabric that we bought yesterday. A soft easy-drape red-brick material that is perfect for beginners – no patterns or lines to match up. I am putting the chair back together and only occasionally can be seen staring at a piece of fabric and muttering ‘how the heck…?”

I have been chugging away at two major tasks. One was producing the ‘good-enough-for-now’ organizational assessment tool that is part of a larger assessment a Johns Hopkins colleague and I will be using with a local reproductive health group in Pakistan next week. We will cover organizational functions (my part of the job) and health communication/behavior change communication practices. We will spend five days with our Pakistani colleagues, helping them introspect and figure out how to serve their clients better. I have been contemplating to study a bit of Urdu, imagining that I will recognize a bit from Dari and will be able to read the script.

The second big task is completing the requirements for my coaching certification, plus an additional certification for one the central tools that my coaching school uses. I had been a little discouraged by that second certification as it added about 17 more hours to the more than 200 hours I have nearly completed. But as it turns out it has been very interesting and it no longer looks like a hurdle. I think I have about another 20 hours or so to go – some of which can be taken care of during my long trip to Pakistan.

In the meantime Axel has received his sleep apnea machine. Sleep apnea has been identified as the culprit for many of his ailments. It is quite complicated to put all the pieces in the right place. For the first week it includes something that looks like a muzzle to keep his mouth closed. I couldn’t quite stand to watch it. Luckily I fall asleep easily and didn’t have to witness the whole thing. One night we met on the way to and from the bathroom and it looked as if an alien had invaded our house – the contraption, the tubing hanging from his nose – or one of those horror movies where government officials in white suits with masks on tell you that you have been invaded and everything you own is now available for ransacking.

The highlights of our time together – times when we recover from all the work and medical hooplala – is watching series together that we missed out on when it was shown on TV. We completed the five seasons of Mad Men which I found encouraging since it showed we have evolved as a species in only 50 years. Now we are watching Brideshead Revisited, the series from the 80s. It makes us happy that we did not grow up in a rich British family and, once again, it made us realize we have evolved, at least some of us.

That brings me to the US government crisis which shows, to the contrary, that in some places there has been no evolution at all.

Forever together

On Saturday we picked up a recliner that was sitting on the sidewalk with a sign that said ‘free.’ We made a U-turn and loaded the chair in the car. At soon as we got home I started to remove the dog-haired upholstery – a major job that gave me blisters and a sore shoulder from pulling thousands of staples pounded into crappy wood. I dismantled the recliner mechanism to get at the tucked away corners. I took a course at least 2 decades ago and re-upholstered a couch and an armchair under the watchful eye of an upholstery master at a local vocational school. I had forgotten that the biggest part of re-upholstery is removing the old stuff. I have no idea whether I will be able to actually do the upholstery and put the chair back to together – it would need to be ready in 6 weeks.

Why? Because I have finally taken the step to schedule surgery (6 weeks from now) and have chosen for fusion over total ankle replacement. What got me off the fence were phone calls with three people who had considered both options and decided for fusion. All three said they wished they’d decided this earlier. They could walk again without pain. That clinched the deal for me. November 20 is the day that my talus and tibia bones will be fused together, forever. I feel as if a weight has lifted off my shoulder. When every step up or down the stairs or even down the driveway is painful I now know it is not forever. Light at the end of the tunnel – assuming the surgery goes well.

Faro and his parents came over for the weekend. When Faro is at our house our living room turns into a playpen – all the furniture is moved to barricade something he is not allowed to get into or touch. Plastic containers are strewn across the kitchen. We have started to teach him that he can only open two drawers in the kitchen and not the one with the measuring cups, the wooden spoons and definitely not the knives (he can just stretch that far up). He walks up to the drawer and lightly touches the forbidden ones while looking at us, waiting for the ‘nee.’ That is one word in Dutch he knows well and copies. He shakes his head and says, nay, nay, nay. Other Dutch words he knows are ‘vliegtuig’ (plane), ‘appel’ and ‘auto.’

At Faro’s toddler school they have a ramp. He has discovered ramps and cars zooming down them. Axel’s wedge, which is supposed to help him sleep without getting acid reflux, turns out to be a great ramp, as does Axel’s Achilles tendon stretcher, a smaller version but still a ramp. It is amazing that toy manufacturers manage to sell us all these kids toys when our houses are already full of things that can be repurposed without much effort into the most amazing playthings.

Fall, moves and celebrations

I am getting up in the dark again, and most of my morning commute is in the dark again. It’s fall and getting colder in the morning and evening. I have used the remote starter already once. But during the day it is Indian Summer time – one of my favorite times of the year.

I missed the staff outing to check out our new offices, a place further north, where we will move in January. I have heard mostly complaints about the move as it is inconvenient for many of my colleagues who live in Boston or in the southern and western suburbs. But for me it means I won’t have to put up with the Tobin Bridge, its traffic jams and its tolls. Since I joined MSH in 1986, the office has been slowly moving in my direction.

Today we are celebrating Steve’s 30th birthday. He is entering a decade that is about settling down and moving into middle age – ha, he doesn’t like to think about that I am sure. I think it was Jung who declared that this is the decade that bridges the first half of life with the second; a decade of shifting priorities and developing other parts of oneself. That certainly was true for me.

Steve’s favorite food is pierogies; it is convenient that he lives in Dorchester’s polish triangle. The place is awash in sausages, pickles and pierogies. It is not quite our WeightWatcher’s fare but we’ll join in on the fun anyways.

Next

Sometimes it feels as if I am in one of those road race machines that you find at malls – as soon as you have maneuvered past one set of difficult sections of the road, new and challenging road sections appear on the horizon. The road glides underneath the car and new horizons appear, until the quarter is used up. Such fun!

My quarter is not up for a long while, at least that is the plan. I feel good about the work done in Uganda and South Africa. I worked with two different colleagues, both insightful and very competent individuals, a pleasure to work with. We did well – developed a robust design and then implemented it as planned and produced the outcomes we had intended. While completing the writing tasks for this assignment, I am already looking ahead and designing the next event, and the next, and the next.

The first ‘next’ is a forum about urban youth and reproductive health in developing countries. It is put up by Johns Hopkins and I get to work with one of Sita’s partners. This will be a domestic trip, to Washington D.C. The next ‘next’ is Pakistan, barely three weeks from now. This trip has been postponed more times than I care to remember. When I turned on the news this morning and the earthquake in Pakistan was announced I wondered for a brief moment whether a trip to Pakistan was simply not in the stars. And there are two nexts queuing up after that: Uganda again, maybe, and then Afghanistan in the new year.

I am experiencing my last very frustrating minutes in this country trying to connect on the internet. My attempts are in vain, messing up my schedule for the third time today. Oh the things we take for granted, being ‘on’ all the time. I have much sympathy for my colleagues in various parts of Africa who deal with this every day.

On my way to the airport I will visit an old friend with whom I worked now nearly 20 years ago in what was then a newly free South Africa. We did a lot of reminiscing last week and will continue some more but this time in her new home in the hilly suburbs of Pretoria. And then it is off to Sietske in Aalsmeer and then home. 


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