Archive Page 95

Great day for up

Sita and I have another joint event under our belt. Sita and her colleague Alicia did their magic, synthesizing countless conversations into a spectacular mural, the two working seamlessly together. They did more than scribing, seeing patterns, distilling nuggets and then advising me on how to sequence the closing session. All through the day people practiced what they preached about knowledge management. The high energy never dropped down even after lunch. The sessions were unhurried and we ended even before the time was up. It was a great day.

We dismantled the large foam towers that held the collective wisdom of the group, all captured digitally to put on the website of the global health knowledge collaborative. And so we passed another milestone, better equipped to move on.

We had a beer and a light dinner before splitting up, Alicia to Wilmington, Sita back to Boston and me across town to another hotel. After a very long rush hour drive and a very high taxi fare I was dropped off at a corporate lodging place – an apartment building mostly inhabited by well earning millennials, with a few suites for corporate hire. It was a most impersonal place, more impersonal than a hotel. I could not imagine paying hard earned money to live in such a soulless place.

I was registered as Riesendorp which took a while to sort out. And then, when I discovered there was no after-hours support for anything, including IT, I checked out again – an evening without internet was a problem. With no hotel rooms available in the neighborhood I took the fast train to Baltimore and checked into a hotel half the price and with internet, near my next meeting. It solved tonight’s problem but not tomorrow’s as I forfeited my room in DC.

Sleepless in DC

Sita and I left on an early flight to DC to work together at a conference. It is the culminating event, a Share Fair, of the Global Health Knowledge Collaborative, and the Knowledge for Health (K4H) end of project taking stock. I am the MC and Sita is doing the graphic facilitation. We have worked together like this in Burkina, in Afghanistan, at Harvard and now here. Every time we do this we think we could be a family business.

The high of working together on something important and worthwhile was shattered by the Boston Marathon bombs. We were blissfully aware of the tragedy until we received messages that Tessa and Steve were safe. “Safe? What safe?” we wondered. Thanks to smartphones we found out what had happened. Here too things were put on high alert: sirens in the distance and worries about targets over here. Two bombs could mean more bombs – since no one knew who, why. Rumors of a complete downtown Boston shut down, the airport…we could have been stuck there.

We tried to forget and got busy with work, ironing out some last minute glitches which required a long walk to find a Staples (too long a walk that produced more ankle ouch), and then settled down in a tapas bar, waiting for Sita’s co-facilitator Alicia who had missed her early morning flight from a southern city.
And now I cannot sleep as the horror of today plays like a tape in my wide awake head…thinking of the bystanders who stood in the wrong place at the wrong time, the runners who had worked months on getting ready, some also at the wrong place at the wrong time.

M called on Skype from Kabul – to make sure we were OK. Imagine that, living in Kabul and worrying about us. “Your people are not used to that,” she said, “it’s harder.” It’s hard on all of us, knowing that everything can suddenly come to a full stop, just like that. One afternoon you decide to go watch the marathon finish, and then bang! For the rest of us life goes on. I have to get back to bed, there’s work to be done in the morning.

33 years and counting

We started celebrating our 33rd wedding anniversary on Thursday evening with a surprise ride, at least for Axel, to an unknown destination. I let the GPS do the talking, and so, as we got closer and closer to our destination, first entering Beverly, then Salem, he began to guess. When we stopped in front of the Waterfront Hotel & Suites in Salem the surprise was complete and over.

We checked in and then walked to a restaurant in back of the hotel on Pickering Wharf. We ordered what we wanted without looking at prices, which made the dinner about even with the cost of lodging. The restaurant (‘62’) is an upscale Italian restaurant with a creative bartender, cook and sommelier. The dishes were small and attractively plated. Our desert was accompanied by two tall glasses of Prosecco, compliments of the chef, for our celebration. If my gift to Axel (a night and day out) was transient, his to me was forever, two seaglass earrings from a local artist with small silver dragonflies. From my medicine card days I remember that dragonflies are reminders to tend to oneself. I haven’t done that well lately.

I had taken Friday off so we could sleep in and do whatever we pleased. The weather wasn’t entirely cooperating as we walked in the freezing rain to a longtime favorite restaurant (Reds) for breakfast. The benedict meals we ordered (accompanied by Irish pork and cod cakes) left me without any desire for food until 7:30 PM. We had to buy Tums to help our stomach digest the rather rich fare. At that restaurant one would not know there was an obesity crisis brewing in the US.

We window shopped for a bit which wasn’t all that much fun in sleeting rain and found refuge in one of my favorite yarn stores (Seed Stitch Fine Yarn) where a young mother with her baby, same age as Faro, was tending to her knitting and child, a challenging combination. I bought a knitting bowl, a ceramic pot with a slot of the yarn, to keep it from rolling all over the floor and appeal to cats and babies alike.

Next stop was the Peabody and Essex Museum where we renewed our membership and admired an exhibit about modern Indian art after watching a fascinating video of Nick Cave and his soundsuits dancing on an all white screen, a modern version of African witch doctors.

We ended our 24 hour celebration with a Vietnamese shrimp and noodle meal and watching no less than 3 episodes of MadMen. Today we entered our 34th year of being together, what a ride!

Babyproof

Opa Axel is baby proofing our kitchen. We have one gate (the cheap one) that requires something akin to a PT exercise – leg lifts – if one wants to go to its other side. The gate on the other side of the kitchen has a door which, with some practice, opens easily. It requires a spanner to put in place, a tool easy to loose so we put it in the messy drawer above the gate.

Baby Faro has discovered there is good stuff in the kitchen drawers and would soon have discovered the liquor cabinet if it wasn’t for Axel’s swift response. All morning Opa screwed in plastic devices that have made our life in the kitchen so much more complicated. We can no longer open a cabinet with one hand – it needs two free hands, one to depress a plastic lip and the other to quickly pull the door open. I am not quite used to it yet and somewhat in denial that we have to live with this handicap for years to come.

Faro has discovered clapping his hands, though there is no sound yet, just the motion. He puts them together in a hit-or-miss sort of way whenever one of us starts singing a Dutch children’s song that has a hand clapping suggestion.

He has also discovered pointing, reminding me of Saturday Night Fever. He responds to pa-pa (or daddy) by pointing vaguely in Jim’s direction. He also knows the word plant, both in Dutch and English (like the difference between ant and aunt), and points enthusiastically to the Jade tree as well as other greens nearby. But when you ask where is ma-ma is he comes up short so we have to work on that.

Easter tradition

The franticness of last week is over. I arrived back in Boston on Thursday night, returned to Cambridge on Friday where a past CNN reporter and communications director for a congressman coached three of us in public speaking, with or without powerpoint. It was both humbling and eye opening for someone who’s travelled all the way to Japan to do something similar there. Humbling mostly because I learned what I didn’t know I didn’t know. That’s why we promote life-long learning. It had been a good week.

This weekend was our annual Easter or Greek Easter or Pseudo Greek Easter celebration. We pick a random weekend between Easter and Greek Easter and pray for good weather even though we know it is a crapshoot. So we tell people there is no such thing as bad weather, only inappropriate clothing. Our friends know this.

Some 45 people came together, circles of friends which, if not already overlapping, do so by the end of the day. The girls helped out putting together the bunny baskets together. Not baskets really but bags with candy – some leftover Easter candy, some Haloween candy and some generic stuff. The babies got Cheerios.

Then one elderly and one younger bunny hid the loot – with Bunny’s ankle problems the hiding is no longer so sophisticated (as in trees) which some people over a certain age took as an insult (“What? You don’t think we can climb trees anymore?”), while others just noted how times have passed.

Joe had flown in from Sterling Towers West (Alpine, CA) to Sterling Towers East (Lobster Cove), and lend a hand with pulling summer furniture out of storage and setting up the bar – an important support for the traditional Lobster Cove drink (Bloody Mary). Fire places were being stoked inside and out to keep us warm. The fierce wind and dropping temperature mandated this.

Raining training

Although domestic travel hardly counts, I am on the road again, a little further south, in Washington DC. It is supposed to be spring here but today was cold and I was glad I wore my Ethiopian leather jacket, good for cold weather on the high plateau, Kabul, Massachusetts and now also DC.

I am being trained with a dozen other colleagues in the art of leading a proposal process. Since I have returned from Afghanistan I was twice put in this role – without the training – and both times the request for proposals was aborted for various reasons. Now that I am learning how I should be playing this role I am glad that happened – I would have gone about my task all the wrong way.

Later this week, on Friday, back in Cambridge, I will be in another training, this time on public speaking, delivered by a firm that does this for a living. A previous training in DC got rave reviews so I signed up. It does require some homework that has to be squished in sometime between now and Friday 9 AM. I am looking forward to the weekend, for some temporary relief – our annual Easter ritual, memories of Beirut, meeting Axel, getting married, Sita on her way, and countless new springs and new beginnings since then – a most memorable time of each year.

Knitting all the way home

20130401-195908.jpg

I counted 10 take offs and landings during my bi-coastal Africa trip. A total of about 36 hours in planes and at least 20 waiting for boarding. That turned out to be exactly what I needed to knit this sweater for an18 month old baby. Of course Faro is barely 10 months, but he is in the 99.6th percentile for length and only slightly less for weight. So, with sleeves rolled up, he wore it at Easter. He didn’t protest, sigh of relief, as he had other fish to fry, like negotiating the xylophone hammer with his older and bossy cousin Norah.

Easter dinner in Berlin (MA) with Sita’s in laws – everything brought and bought and cooked and cleaned up by our hosts so that I could focus entirely on being Oma Dutch. It is good to be home.

Sights

2013-03-27 20.27.03

2013-03-27 20.29.08

???????????????????????????????Our second visit for the day was the local International Planned Parenthood Federation affiliate, AIBEF. I visited AIBEF exactly 20 years ago when it was not in a good place because of poor governance. The current AIBEF is blossoming, having realized a vision that was expressed all these years ago: aside from the usual family planning services, there are HIV/AIDS services (diagnosis and treatment plus outreach to young and old), there are pediatric services, ultrasound, and even a maternity plus training rooms and lodging. There is of course a new vision that includes an operating theatre.

We were warmly received and given a tour and loaded with brochures and T-shirts at the end. From the logistics managers we received the same orange/white T-shirt he wore. It had a message on the back that no one should be dying of an abortion gone wrong. Abortion is still illegal here except under a few tightly worded exceptions, but even then it requires multiple doctors to agree. It is still the doctor who decides, although the doctors are no longer male.

When asked whether there had been progress, everyone agreed they had come a long way. That long way was hardly interrupted by ‘la crise,’ as the time of warring presidents is commonly referred to. AIBEF came out OK, partially because of heroic behavior of its leadership and may be also because of its location and local support. I learned that the MSH office here was less fortunate and was reduced to its walls with everything stolen or broken. That, I believe, has nothing to do with politics but everything with unbridled rage, let loose by power plays of well-dressed gentlemen who claim to not be in control (or is it not like that?).

In the evening our host took us to a small maquis (inexpensive local no-frill restaurant) at the edge of the Laguna that separated us from the skyscrapers of Abidjan. To get to the maquis we first traversed the empty section of town where the embassies and big people had returned from a busy day at work for a quiet evening. Then we entered a vibrant quarter which consisted of bars, maquis and hair salons, with music everywhere. Here everyone was wide awake and ready for a busy night. We parked on an unpaved and potholed road, put a man in charge of the surveillance of our car and walked over to a place that we would never had suspected was a waterfront restaurant.

Although the Laguna is polluted, the smell I had expected, if it was there at all, wafted away on an outgoing wind which kept us cool and the mosquitoes away. We had carpe braisee, a local specialty with vinegary onions and pepper and some wicked hot sauces, french fries and aloko (fried plantain, a specialty in this part of Africa), while sipping a Flag beer. Across the Laguna we could see the traffic jam of cars trying to get home, as late at 8:30 PM it was one solid line of yellow car lights. Traffic here, as in nearly all capitals of developing countries, is intense as the middle classes are growing and buying cars; a sign of prosperity, that is creating new problems screaming for solutions.

In the weeds

2013-03-27 14.34.34

2013-03-27 15.19.09

2013-03-27 15.19.19Although we are officially ‘in the field’ it isn’t really very ‘fieldy.’ So far I have been far removed from the work in the weeds, for a long time. I have been in central offices, in resorts, in artificial situations, created for conversation. This is important of course, but it isn’t ‘the field.’

And so, finally today, we got into a car and drove to a popular neighborhood of Abidjan, turned off the main road into an unpaved alley and stopped in front of a tiny derelict place. Four large steps up landed us in the headquarters of a tiny NGO that is one of the thousands of ground troops involved in the fight against HIV/AIDS but also helping young women find their voice and their power. We were met by three volunteers while the founder sat on a small chair where he stayed throughout our visit, not taking part in our conversations. He is, I was told, the permanent presence, though I may not have understood this well – I have a different image of founders.

The tour of the premises was short, four of five tiny rooms, loaded with stuff, boxes and what not piled on top of each other. Two ancient computers flickered with spreadsheets, reports to donors in all likelihood, a scanner that didn’t work, an old dusty printer and lots of dossiers. It was all very minimalist and, for us spoiled westerners, not what we would consider a ‘conducive’ work environment. The volunteers who received us, nevertheless, were proud of their premises and the work they do. Hats off to them.

The founder, and anyone else who was not engaged in an activity, were watching a ‘policier’ that had all the ingredients for success: sex, violence, fast cars, strong bad men and cops – probably the same ingredients that make for all the poverty around them, minus the cars and the cops I suspect.

Someone was sent out to get us bottled water and a box of tissues, to wipe the sweat form our brows. And then we started to talk. Hearing their stories, the work they do, the attitudes they change was humbling – they do much with so little. If there is little of the things we generally expect and need in order to do a good job, they do have one thing aplenty: commitment. It drives everything, confirming once more that human energy for something is our most precious resource. In fact, when I asked them about their personal vision, it was the same as their vision for their NGO.

Humdidee

It is very hot and humid and tonight at 6 PM humidity became 100% and the skies emptied over Abidjan. And then it went and soon the humidity was back where it was before. K, a colleague from Johns Hopkins and I had dinner served on the little front porch that belongs to her room (my front porch is the swimming pool). We chose not to eat in the dining room. A combination of bug repellent, mildew, perfumed room freshener and cigaret smoke would certainly have interfered with what was otherwise a nice meal.

We accomplished what we came here to do. We are laying the rails in front of the moving train and so far we appear to be on track, with enthusiastic counterparts, Johns Hopkins colleagues who are running an impressive program. Their office is festooned with HIV/AIDS awareness posters, pamphlets of every size and color for every possible target group. They employ some very good artists. A storyteller from South Africa came up to Ivory Coast to help them write stories for comic books. I started reading about Marcelline and Jojo and couldn’t put it away, wanting to know what happens next, and next. It’s a good story with great illustrations – so much more effective than direct exhortations. We each received two comic books cadeau – if I didn’t know about HIV and AIDS, these books would wake me up.

The office is small and so much of the work is done through local organizations, some small, some big. We will visit two organizations tomorrow, just to get a sense of the range of partners the project is working with.

We had the morning off while our counterparts were taking care of their affairs. I took advantage of the free time to visit with a former chief of an important coordinating body who had been part of a leadership program we ran here in 2006. Later in the day I also contacted a young colleague who I mentored as she gained confidence in facilitating leadership development. In the years since we were together she has actually consulted on leadership outside the country and taught her older male colleagues about leadership. This is so neat and proves again (I know this already) that people will rise to a challenge that is thrown in their lap. I have more stories like this and they make me intensely happy.

I am beginning to suspect that the ankle operation made no difference. Part of me keeps hoping, but so far the reality is that the talus bone still catches on the tibia bone or vice versa, despite the scraping that the doctor did on March 5. Someone asked me what next? And I realized I didn’t want to think about it too much as all three options are unpleasant prospects: fusion, ankle replacement or not being able to walk without pain.


April 2026
M T W T F S S
 12345
6789101112
13141516171819
20212223242526
27282930  

Categories

Blog Stats

  • 140,874 hits

Recent Comments

Sallie Craig Huber's avatarSallie Craig Huber on Rays for real
Lucy's avatarLucy on Probabilities
Olya's avatarOlya on Cuts
Olya Duzey's avatarOlya Duzey on The surgeon’s helpers
svriesendorp's avatarsvriesendorp on Safe in my cocoon

Enter your email address to follow this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email.

Join 78 other subscribers