Archive for May, 2010



Awe and awful

How much difference a week makes! Fruits have arrived from the south and the east (Pakistan I suppose). Along the streets there are vendors with their carts full of ripe and juicy mangos, melons, cherries, apricots and other fruits I associate with midsummer.

I slept 12 hours and it still wasn’t enough; I still feel a little shaky. We stayed in our jammies most of the morning, foregoing our usual walk in Bagh-e-bala or elsewhere. It is nice to be home and today I didn’t mind our limited freedom.

I am finishing Malalai Joya’s book (A Woman Among Warlords). I don’t care that much about the book, its writing more than a little akward, but I am in awe of her courage. and wished I could watch the Iron-Jawed Angels movie with her, to show her that she is following in the footsteps of many aunties elsewhere in the world. They all risked life and limb, as Malalai does, fighting for justice.

I wish I knew how to support her. The only way I can think of right now is to help pull the women I meet and work with out of their lethargy and passiveness if they haven’t already done so on their own; to encourage them to change from victim to agent. There is much fear (not unsubstantiated) and becoming a (female) agent in this society is no small matter. But there are already many; if and when they connect they can really be a force for change.

We have a new female staff member, Chris, who is from Australia. She will be the first and only female Program Manager (of seven), so that will make two of us in our weekly meeting of directors and program managers. I told my male colleagues that this is just the beginning and that, before they realized it, we would outnumber them. Ha, the infiltration has begun!

Although it was supposed to be a day of rest I am so far behind in reading my mail that I had to sit at least some time behind the computer, catching up, doing expense reports, reading CVs of people I am supposed to interview and finish the performance reviews that are all behind schedule.

Axel was also working, also in his jammies, and concluded at the end of the day that working is hard work. He got what he wanted, a real job, but now he’s got to do the job.

We had dinner in front of the TV and watched, for a very brief moment, Afghan child idol, an awful show with awful children singing awful songs, before we switched to watching House on Axel’s computer. He downloaded 16 episodes. After watching two House episodes his awfulness started to get at me.

Overnight express

The flight to Kabul was quick because I slept most of the way, stretched out on three seats. The (very) early morning flight Kabul is the cheapest of its offerings. You’d think that that would fill up the plane but it was half empty, hence the three seats.

My vertigo had subsided except for that one moment that the plane was pushed backwards into its parking slot, after arrival in Kabul. The backwards movement, uncommon in planes, tripped up my brain and everything started spinning again; luckily it lasted less than a minute and I was able to walk out of the plane into what was at least a physically stable world.

Otherwise things aren’t very stable here. Kabul is picking itself up, once again, from a series of traumatic events that had occurred during my absence (one plane crash and two attacks, Darulaman and Baghram). This does not include the many other efforts at intimidation that are happening with increasing regularity all over the country, especially in the once peaceful north. I’d like to think these are acts of people who are cornered and becoming desperate, but like us to think they are on the winning team.

Axel cooked me a nice breakfast and then I went back to sleep to continue my series of interrupted naps. I slept till 12:00 and then went to the office to participate in the continuation of our work planning meetings. It was the reason for taking the early morning flight.

The day ended with a phone call with Boston where I was joined, by video, with the people I had just left in Washington. It was as if I had been beamed halfway across the globe overnight, or shipped like a UPS parcel.

Truth to power

I am back in Dubai waiting for the Safi plane to take me home. With my emergency room experience under my belt I had been able to negotiate a stay in the Dubai airport hotel. It is expensive (it charges by the hour) but it would allow me to stay in the hotel and have a few hours of sleep rather than having to negotiate several waiting lines, get into a taxi to another expensive hotel, sleep an hour and get back into a taxi to join more waiting lines.

A young man with my name, misspelled, on a handheld sign whisked me straight off the plane to a luxurious hotel room just above the hustle and bustle of the tax-free shopping area; a room with a view on one of the jetways.

I dreamt about women’s liberation and courage, quite a good combination of themes that came from watching first Temple Grandin deal with the stockyard cowboys in Arizona (Thinking in pictures) and then Alice Paul and her team fighting for women’s voting rights in the 1917s in the US (Iron jawed angels).

Both films were about the power of vision and the ugliness of human behavior, in the case of these particular films, man’s nature, when the vision clashes with a deeply entrenched status quo. I don’t quite understand the perceived threat (is is more perceived than real it seems). It is one I also see in Afghanistan, when people stand up for their rights and speak truth to power.

And now on to Kabul.

Vertigo

I had until yesterday always associated Vertigo with Hitchcock but from now on it will be associated with my four day trip to deliver a presentation at a conference in Washington that nearly didn’t happen and 5 hours in the emergency room of George Washington University Hospital.

The vertigo had started small, brief episodes before I got off the plane on Saturday morning, a few more that day, a few more on Sunday, all short and fleeting. But then, at the end of the morning session of the big conference that celebrated the end of the project I have been working on for all these years, the episode did not stop. I became like a drunk: unable to walk with the room spinning around me and then my stomach started to heave. Two colleagues got me to the bathroom, just in time; after that I had to have a plastic bag/waste basket next to me at all time.

For a while it was touch-and-go: will she present, will she not. My colleagues were ready to whisk me away to the emergency room but I resisted. After all I had travelled 36 hours to make that presentation. In the end the presentation became a team effort: the Afghan representative of the ministry of health and one of my Boston based colleagues prepared themselves for taking over. We ended up each doing a piece. We took longer than planned, there were fewer people than we had expected and there were essentially no questions but we delivered the message that some good stuff is happening in Afghanistan.

And then I was taken to the hospital where I had a cat scan (everything OK), blood tests (everything OK), and EKG (OK) and the final conclusion, luckily, of benign locational vertigo. A little after 10 PM I was sent home with antivertigo medicine and the OK from the doctor to board the plane to Dubai tonight. My colleagues wanted to keep me in DC, in a Holiday Inn near the office but that was not at all in my plans. I am happy to go home; a home that I learned just now had been bombed again and had a plane crash. Vertigo seems like a minor irritation in comparison.

Full

Full with the joy of seeing friends and colleagues who I have worked with for many years, decades in some case; of seeing colleagues from Nepal. We started something there in 2006 and it is still going strong – leaders are popping up everywhere.

Full of pride in seeing Flore from Cote d’Ivoire. She was an administrative assistant, underemployed like Marzila in Kabul. I convinced the rest of her male team that we needed women on the facilitator team. Some protested (I have heard this too often: she is too young, the older men won’t accept her in an authority role). But they did and now she is here in Washington for the first time in her life. We hugged. I could have cried.

I could have cried and was filled with sadness upon hearing about the earthquake from my Haitian colleagues, the sadness of Sandra who lost her husband, her life partner, her best friend. Many are still living in tents, afraid to enter even their undamaged home. It takes courage they say. For now it is too scary, because of the continuing and unexpected aftershocks. The earth, it seems, is not done yet. What a frightening thought.

Full of the stuffiness that comes from being in a windowless hotel basement room for an entire day watching rehearsals of powerpoint presentations and doing my own.

Too full with stories to be able to stick to the 30 minutes allowed (but how does one tell about Afghanistan in 30 minutes?).

A city full of beaming students and their parents as they walk, some in their graduation gowns, others with just the tassled hat on, or simply carrying the thing in a plastic bag) on their way to the enormous GWU graduation set-up in the middle of the Mall.

Meals full of calories but so very yummy.

Full of energy after a good night. Now it is morning here in DC and evening in Kabul. The real reason for why I am here starts today. Rehearsal time is over. Curtain opens in a couple of hours.

Full of pearls; wearing my mother’s and grandmother’s pearls for the occasion. I so rarely dress up these days. This seemed like a good time.

Full of gladness that I am not leaving for Dubai tonight.

Royal

For 16 hours I was high up in the sky, oblivious to the worries of the world, ensconced in my business class pod. Things turned out all right and it was my lucky day after all. I fell asleep, which is very easy to do in the pod because the seat flattens entirely, as soon as we were up in the air and woke up as we approached the North American coast. Sixteen hours in that business class pod is easy flying; I could have gone on for another 16 hours. But in coach it is an endless trip, I have done it too.

I entered the US with a simple swipe of my passport in a kiosk. I got my clearance for the Global Entry System just when my continuous travel stopped, last winter. It’s very satisfying to bypass the long lines. The swift entry and not having any checked luggage, made it possible to catch the plane to DC that left 25 minutes after I exited the plane that had taken me from Dubai.

I was taken to a very fancy hotel, Monaco, which is located straight across the National Portrait Gallery. I learned that the hotel used to be the Tariff Building and was the first significant federal building constructed after the US Capitol and the White House. The design is based on an Italian Renaissance Palazzo. I feel kind of royal, first the B-class and now this. I am travelling in style.

I threw myself Washington like a true tourist, starting with a walk down to the Mall. I chose my lunch spot carefully: in the National Gallery’s statue garden. I had it with a glass of white wine in a plastic cup, just like that, in the open, while watching a steady stream of obese tourists waddle by and trying to look at the exposed flesh with the eyes of an Afghan and I marvel about this place where everything is possible that is so frowned upon back home.

I visited the National Gallery and then made a brief pilgrimage to see Amelia’s shiny red Lockheed Vega in the overcrowded Air & Space Museum. I had watched the movie about her on the plane and felt compelled to pay my respect.

On my way back to the hotel I passed by the Canadian embassy, marvelling again at the absence of any visible form of protection, except for some low fences one could jump over in a second. It made me want to scream at all the warmongers in Afghanistan, ‘don’t you see what you could get, how lovely and peaceful Afghanistan could be if you could just stop worrying about your own wellbeing and interest and start looking after the good of the country?’

Back at the hotel I ‘rested my eyes’ as Axel calls it until the phone brought me back from a bottomless sleep. Kathy from the reception rang to tell me the provincial health director of Bamiyan Province had showed up. He has been all over the US on a trip paid for by the State Department and we were able to keep him here three more days to participate in our conference. I am paying his bill, hence the call.

I am happy about his presence at the conference on Monday. It will keep me honest. When people ask me about ‘country-owned’ and ‘government-led’ I can call on him.

It also meant that I had an Afghan dinner date and the food was going to be Afghan. Our Sikh taxi driver took us far outside the city; I was ready to turn back and then there it was, a place along a major road, strip mall style. I don’t think I would have ever gone in by myself as it didn’t look very attractive on the outside. It was Afghan all right, very Afghan. A wedding was going on inside. It is as if I was back in Kabul except the men and women mingled freely and most women were not covering themselves as they would in the home country.

The food and the service was excellent and stood in some contrast to the rather run down surrounding. I could tell that my Afghan friend was enjoying the food he has missed for 3 weeks. I watched him observe with curiosity his Americanized country men and women as he ate his warm Afghan naan, sipped his green tea and dug into his qabuli rice. It was royal treatment of a different kind.

Dubaifarsi

It was a dusty ride out of Kabul and into Dubai. Someone other than Captain Courtney was piloting us to Dubai but the chief flight attendant and I recognized each other from my cockpit ride 6 weeks ago.

I was driven from the airport to my dayroom on Dubai Creek in a Lady Taxi (pink stripe on car) by a Sri Lankan lady all dressed in pink and white, the company uniform for female drivers. It included a white gauzy veil that was much too warm for Dubai. In her native Sri Lanka there was no veil and there was rain, lots of rain during monsoon time.

Still, she liked it here because of the money (lady fares are 20% higher than male fares). She had started out as a housemaid for an Iranian family and had decided that this was not a good form of employ. She took driving lessons and told me proudly she was licensed now. Because of her previous Iranian employer we could communicate also in broken Farsi.

I am staying in a hotel that is populated by Africans, many with small children. I am curious about why they are here. I have a small balcony with teak garden furniture that looks out over the Creek, exactly as I had hoped.

After completing my presentation for the conference I walked, in spite of the heat, along the quiet Dubai Creek. Weekend in Dubai transforms the place. Instead of the frantic activity of loading and unloading wares from everywhere on and off their boats, the dhow hands were languishing in whatever shade they could find.

I had planned to cross to the other side and eat a Lebanese lunch but the cold coconut milk, fresh from the nut, and the jumbo prawns offered by a small sidewalk cafe kept me on this side. Afterwards I made a quick stop at the spice souk where I found most shops closed for Friday prayers, except for one. I found the one spice I haven’t been able to get in Kabul, star anise, and surprised the Iranian shopkeeper with my ability to communicate with him in his native language, Farsi. It seems that if you don’t speak Arabic, Farsi can take you a long way in Dubai.

Got my middle seat changed to window – things are lightening up.

In the middle

I slept late and found neither my ticket to the US organized nor the email with Boston working. We use a travel agent but they didn’t kick in until I had organized everything myself, arrangements made via Skype. I learned from the nice Delta lady that the only seat available on the 16 hour flight from Dubai to Atlanta is in the middle of the middle row. I had changed my route with the intent of an upgrade but instead find myself in the least attractive place in the entire plane.

To compensate for this I booked myself in a nice hotel that looks over the Creek in Deira, Dubai. I will hang out there from noon till early evening when it is check-in time for my night flight. I will need to finalize my presentation now that I recieved all the missing pieces by belated email. I plan to cross the creek for a nice lunch at the Lebanese restaurant before heading out to my middle seat.

I had my Dari lesson with a sneezing and coughing teacher who refused to sit next to me, fearing she would infect me. We started on the last lesson, 25, of the here famous Glassman book. After that I will start reading and writing. I am now learning the kind of very complicated sentences that allow me to express hopes or fears or inquire about possibilities that may or may not be realized, some requiring the subjunctive and some requiring the progressive past tense. These lessons require many hours of review and practice. I think my vocabulary is now approaching one thousand words.

A bunch of us got together to watch Proof (Anthony Hopkins, Gwyneth Paltrow) on a big screen after an eclectic meal prepared by the cook of guesthouse 0. It included tuna pizza (hmm), rice, roasted lamb, roasted potatoes and onions, an Afghan dish with eggplant and yogurt and a few other dishes I never even got to.

Our cook had contributed his excellent apple torte and I had made asparagus
soup from the peels and stocky ends of the spears we ate the other day while our cook was watching my every move. I tried to explain in my best Dari what a roux was and why one made one and how it made the thin soup thick. I actually don’t understand the physics and didn’t know the words for thick and thin so I doubt he got it.

Our little Dari/English cookbook has a cauliflower soup in it, made with potato as a thickener and so I pointed to that. I think Axel is going to have cauliflower soup soon, thick soup I imagine.

And now it is way past my bedtime as the driver will show up in about 6 hours and I am not quite ready. The broken email was fixed at the end of the workday here and then let in a long stream of emails that I have not attended to, except for the one with the new ticket that still sits me in the middle back in coach.

…and the women?

I am watching Hillary and Karzai on my TV screen. Our cable for English language channels defective and so I watch the local news, with both leaders speaking in dubbed Dari. Not having any linguistic cues I watch their body language; I see tension and much nervous laughter. I am sure that many people here are watching every move of Karzai, especially his ennemies and those whom he owes a debt. There may indeed be much cause for nervous laughter.

Karzai speaks about fruitful talks between his ministers and their American counterparts; that much I get. I wonder how our (health) minister is faring and whether her message is getting through (and what message for that matter).

We hope that everyone will ask the Afghan delegation ‘what about the women?’ With all the talk about the Taliban integrating into the government (mostly men talking to other men), people don’t seem to realize the panic that this creates here among women.

After Hillary and Obama and Karzai at various events, some live, we watched what we believe is a ‘strategic communication’ piece from and about the Afghan army. Axel notices that the footage has no foreigners in it: Afghans training Afghans. This is the new mantra – no foreigners. We are wondering how Karzai walks this fine line in Washington: we want your money but not your strings, or people.

Today was both my first day at work and my last day. This made it a very long day. The presentation I have to give on Monday in Washington was incomplete and had not been mine until today. The planned rehearsal via video today became a presentation of my own version, also still incomplete, to be fixed tomorrow, after my Dari lessons.

Steel

We found our two gates, one for people on foot and the other for cars, to be reinforced with a quarter inch of steel plate. All the guesthouses are fortified like this as well as our office compound entrance gates. It worries me a bit. Is this in reaction to something I should know about? Or an after the fact move (the compound in Kandahar inhabited by contractors was destroyed because a car full of explosive drove through the gate)? Or is it because our operations chief is moving back to the US next month and wants to make sure everything is in order when he leaves? This is how the attacks on our minds are more severe than the real ones. We are separated by ever more steel from Afghan society.

Another piece of steel, in the form of a water tank, was hoisted, we don’t know how, on the roof while we were away. This is to provide a back-up, I suppose, when the summer drought kicks in, as it always does, in a couple of months.

Right now everyone acts as if there is no water problem here. Dusty roads are sprayed with water to keep the dust down; the cook, after he changes from his western clothes into his Afghan outfit at the end of his workday, always washes his car with plenty of water. He rides out of our gate dressed to the nines in a spotless car.

The guards scrub the terrace every morning and afternoon like only Dutch housewives can do better, but in Holland water is never a problem. And then there is the garden: the roses and the grass get a good hosing at least twice a day now that it is getting warmer.

I am sitting on the clean-scrubbed, but dusty again, terrace overlooking our neat suburban garden. The roses past their bloom have been cut, we now have snapdragons and calendulas planted in the open spaces between the roses, the stock is showing its first buds and a few tiny lettuce plants, inherited from the previous occupants of our house, have grown until full heads of lettuce. There is a little tomato volunteer that the gardener is treating like a king(let).

Axel is off to SOLA, refreshed from a long nap. I took a nap too and am trying to catch up on email so that I can make the best use of my one day in the office before I head out again on Friday. This very quick trip to the US was, until last week, considered plan B. It seems plan B is now activated. Plan A, my Afghan colleagues going to the US, appears to have been discarded. Still, I put in one last ditch effort to get my Congressman and Senator involved in the process that was supposed to have provided the two of them with visas to the US. With only 4 workdays left we don’t think there’s much of a chance. Hence the plan B.


May 2010
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