Archive for the 'On the road' Category



With abandon

The reunion program was wonderful – time for catching up with each other, checking out how all of us are aging (some beautifully and some not so – an outsider might not have guessed we were all in the 64-66 age bracket). I learned about another friend who is dying from cancer at the young age of 66 – the third from my circle of friends in less than a year.

His wife was there and gave me a glimpse of this strange land of being with someone you love who is dying; I can’t even begin to imagine this waiting for the moment of parting: one going to sleep forever and the other figuring out how to be single again. In America people around us are dying of old age or heart attacks – but here it seems to be cancer. Holland is among the 10 countries with the highest rates of cancer in the world (Denmark is first). Experts and activists are debating whether this is simply a question of better diagnostics, life style (smoking and drinking) or stuff that gets added to make the food we eat (dairy and meat products in particular) more profitable. It’s sad, either way with people dying when life should be at its best – with worries about money, children and careers no longer weighing us down.

A voice/singing coach led us through a magnificent singing workshop that made me want to take him back to Boston and help us sing together at MSH and get some joy back at work. It is amazing what singing together does for your spirit. Of course my singing with total abandon didn’t help my vocal cords which are still recovering from two bouts of laryngitis.

Ownership

We are nearing the end of the retreat and doubled in size. Social workers and psychologists have streamed in from all corners of Rwanda. The hotel has set up a tent on the lawn to accommodate us. This is a challenge as there are no more walls. The hotel staff has populated the tent with an odd assortment of tables and plastic chairs.

The tent comes as a surprise. With the tables removed in the conference room we had used so far we could have accommodated everyone inside, but it was too late – the tent is up and paid for. Now there is even less comfort with English and so we keep on snipping away parts of the ambitious agenda.

In the meantime the per diem issue has been resolved to everyone’s satisfaction. Also, the excitement of turning from renters into owners is beginning to insert a new energy in the room/tent. The participants are now mobilizing themselves (as measured by the number of people in the room at each day’s starting time).

There is another sign that the ownership we want is materializing. The participants of the core group, the 40+ people who we started with on Tuuesday, are now the new guides, explaining the 50 newcomers what we have done in the last 2 days. It is very exciting to see this happen – the design holds and is working exactly as planned, in spite of all the adjustments. We are now on the sidelines. We can let go. The baton is now in their hands. I am watching people who were at times reluctant or confused participants share the products of our work as if they were car salesmen. You’d think they had owned the design from the get go.

Owning or renting

We left Kigali at daybreak in order to arrive early on the shores of Lake Kivu to set up the room, get our instruction slides in order, dot the ‘i’s’ and cross the ‘t’s’. Official starting time was 2PM

I had put in a lot of padding for the afternoon sessions as I was aware of the many factors we would have no control over. One such a factor was the actual versus planned departure of the participants from Kigali.  Planned for 8AM, the last bus left Kigali around 11:30AM. By the time they arrived everyone was tired and grumpy, even more so when they discovered that their per diem was half of what they expected.

The time buffers around each activity paid off. We ended the day only slightly behind schedule and caught up by the next day.

The language barrier is omnipresent. Although it is true that everyone in HQ or field lead positions can speak English, comprehension by many is more limited. We had to insert quite a bit of translation.

The processes, from historical timeline to mission to vision to contradictions to strategic directions was taxing at times. The inductive processes and our requests to look for patterns and naming them is new to many. Concepts and tasks needed much more explanation, and often translation, than we had expected. In addition, the chief’s English is also limited. Her second language is French, which none of my colleagues speak well enough to use. And so I have parallel conversations in French – there is much that gets lost in translation.

In addition to the language complications (a continuation of what we experienced in Bangkok) there were many taxing moments with client requests, needs and desires a constantly moving target. This too may be related to none of us communicating in our first language. Adjustments, re-budgeting of time, making short cuts and dropping things altogether were the order of the day.

We were aiming for ownership, which is always hard in the beginning. Getting ownership means people go at their own pace and the products of their thinking may not quite be up to the standards one would want. It is the tradeoff between owning and renting someone else’s ideas.

Assumptions

We moved into the Gorillas hotel in Kigali for two nights. Monday was an official holiday. We used it to align expectations around our roles and how to function well as a team. In the afternoon we met with our local colleague who is seconded to the organization, about which I have yet to learn a lot. My MSH colleagues who are here with me have worked with this organization for several years and provided me with some critical contextual information.

We checked several assumptions that are implicit in the retreat design and fine-tuned or micro-designed sessions wherever possible. The design won’t get tested until we take off, always an important moment when we learn about language and other challenges. Until that moment the whole enterprise is theoretical.

Later we discovered many more unverified assumptions as well as a number of miscommunications and misunderstandings which led to some very challenging facilitation acrobatics. One lesson I learned is that if the client says we meet from 8:00 in the morning till 7:30 at night I better challenge this right away. I know such long days are counterproductive but sometimes we give the client the benefit of the doubt. That was a mistake.

Back and forth

Lobster Cove on a cold crisp winter day, with snow on the ground and sunny blue skies is nearly as good as a summer day. Being home is bliss. We enjoyed a day by the fire, reading, catching up and cooking good food.

The wonderful mood was broken by the news from Holland of yet another friend succumbing to cancer; we were together last summer after the funeral of my ex. It makes one wonder, ‘who’s next?’

I took Monday off to catch up on various things pending, such as my renewal of my Global Entry pass, a wonderful arrangement that lets me bypass long lines coming back in the US. Tuesday was a day for various medical appointments. The best news came from the lab: all my numbers had improved, showing that my kicking off the sugar habit was now paying off. The addiction is gone; I can eat a corner of something sweet and leave most of it on the plate; I can have one square of chocolate without wolfing down the entire bar; I can (and did) decline my free birthday pastry from Panera.

I went to work two days, quiet workdays with not a whole lot to do other than preparing for my next trip which starts tonight.

We squeezed in a visit to the grandkids and took Friday off for that purpose. It was not quite a weekend but long enough to do multiple puzzles of Africa and Asia with Faro. He proudly showed me where Madagascar was and could tell me its capital with all its multiple vowels without missing a beat. I told him I was not going to Madagascar but to Rwanda instead, so now he is working on Kigali, a piece of cake after Antananarivo. We gave him the book ‘Africa Adorned’ so he can see who lives in those puzzle pieces he knows so well to place on the map.

And now it is time to get on board again, to Amsterdam where I will meet a colleague, and then onwards to the Gorillas hotel in Kigali.

Solo or team learning

The days are long when you are teaching with a team. Although physically more challenging (no breaks), psychologically it is easier when you are alone. You can do whatever you want when you are the only one running a workshop but is has some drawbacks: you are not helping younger staff to learn the trade and when you get feedback, if any coming your way (less and less so when you get older I notice), it is hard to digest it as you can filter out whatever you don’t want to deal with. Working with others is hard work. There are so many factors at play, and so many decisions to make.

You have to think hard, all the time, before saying something in your team. You have to always consider whether one’s first reaction is a judgment about the other or reveals more about oneself. You have to consider whether you are all on the same page (oops, we forgot to spent some time on teambuilding up front) or pursuing different objectuves. Is there shame involved when not knowing or making mistakes? If you have ever watched Brenee Brown’s TED talks on vulnerability and shame or thought about your own experiences, you know it is a tricky thing. Now drape Asian and Africa cultures over these two and you have a big pickle in your hand.

My objectives in the kinds of workshops I do are to move people in the direction of greater self-awareness, even millimeters is fine. Many organizational and family messes come from people not being aware of how they impact others. This means I have to practice what I preach. Being self-aware is very fatiguing as you can never criticize or judge someone spontaneously. But it is so much more fun to rant about others. So I often come back more tired from a team trip than from a solo one. The good thing of teaming is that I go out more and reduce time working alone in front of a computer and ordering room service.

We went out nearly every night to nearby restaurants. For me this is a hit or miss kind of thing but for my Millenial colleagues finding a place to eat is a project that involves an internet search. They even triangulate, using trip Advisor and other sites to determine if a restaurant is worth going to. The bad places we went to where my unsearched suggestions – the good choices were based on experience, which is still my main source of information.

My DC colleagues delayed their trip home, staying a few more days in Bangkok; being all warm weather creatures this was an easy decision for them. I don’t mind the snow except when you can’t land where you want to go. I left very early on Saturday morning for a three-leg, 9000 miles and 30 hour journey from hotel to home. Thanks to the combined efforts of Logan’s control tower, our Delta pilots and the drivers of enormous snow ploughs we avoided being diverted to Albany at the last minute. I tumbled into a deep sleep at 10:30 PM. It’s good to be home, snow and all.

The sound of the sea

We started the second event today, a holiday in the US (or actually the night before the holiday). The MLK holiday is a fitting start of our work here as it is about giving voice to those excluded. The participants are professionals and managers working in rehab centers in Pakistan, Tajikistan, Madagascar, Vietnam and Cambodia and their ICRC colleagues. Their collective wish is to improve the quality and quantity of services to disabled people. There is also a hope to eventually wean the centers from the financial, material and technical support of ICRC and replacing it with local financing schemes. This requires strong leadership, sound management and good governance.

We have a huge challenge on our hands with at least eight different languages spoken and no common one other than English, a very poor English in some cases. Each country has at least one fairly fluent English speaker and so we count on them to translate and explain back the concepts that are often not all that translatable.

We do have all the support documents available in Vietnamese, Cambodian, Urdu, French, and Russian which I think it pretty amazing. The logistics of it all are very complicated and we are trying to manage. But of course everything takes longer and we often don’t know if everyone is on board. So far participation in plenary sessions is not what I am used to with only the confident or native English speakers chiming in. The concepts we are introducing are new to many, then throw the language inhibitions into the mix and you get a lot of blank stares.

On Sunday we gave the ICRC facilitators a preview of the week to help them start a few paces ahead of their country teams. In the evening we had a planning meeting at the frantic Asiatique Riverfront eating mediocre (mass produced) Thai food. The stimulation of the senses was beyond what I could stand, all the way back to the hotel. City life is OK for a couple of weeks but I am getting ready to exit this megalopolis.

When I woke up this morning at 4 AM there was only the sound of birds in the hotel’s lush garden. Except for the occasional early morning motor biker or car I was reminded there is such a thing as nature. When one participant from Vietnam explained that his name meant ‘sound of the sea’ I was reminded of my home on Lobster Cove where the sound of the sea is a constant. The things we take for granted!

Shopping, eating and selfies

This must have been the longest time between entries. I have been busy, if not with work and preparing for each tomorrow, than with exploring Bangkok.

After the interminable trip from Boston to Detroit to Seoul to Bangkok I was the first of the team to arrive. This left Sunday for me to play. I bought two all day on-and-off tickets, one for the skytrain and the other for the boats that ferry up and down the river that dissects Bangkok. I took one look at the Grand Palace, or rather the throngs of people in trying to get in, and turned around and hopped back on the boat. I stopped where least people got off and explored the vegetable market, the Chinese quarter, and the Indian quarter. I edged my way through crowded markets and quiet neighborhoods where no one spoke English. Bangkok (center) is one of those cities that is easy to navigate because there is always the river to orient oneself. It was hot but better than cold and windy Manchester.

I concluded my one rest day of last week with a swim, a green curry by the pool and a massage. Getting on these long plane rides and the long work days are tiresome but the rewards are plenty.

The next day my two colleagues arrived from DC and we started to lay out the week, divide roles, check the documents. I had already delivered this workshop and knew the material well though it was new for my young colleagues, who had to be a few pages ahead of the participants. They will deliver this same workshop in two months without me, and so my role was more as a mentor than a trainer, a role I like well. The four days of our coaching and communication workshop went fast and by Friday I saw that everyone moved a few inches up the ladder of self-awareness and starting to see that it is more practical to assume that the problems at work are caused by oneself rather than the other. It’s painful but at least it offers ways forward, after one realizes that nobody can change another. On the first day this is not so obvious, but on day four it was.

Fast forward to the next Saturday, another rest day which I used well: a long nap in the morning, a trip to the river and then to Asiatique, an old riverfront trading area that has been reclaimed for tourist and Thai alike, and turned into an extravaganza of small boutiques and hundreds of eateries. I chanced upon the Thailand Jazz competition while waiting for my pedicure appointment. I also took a ride in the giant Ferris wheel while it was still light, getting a sense of Bangkoks urban sprawl and skyscape. But Asiatique really comes to life late afternooon when thousands of people arrive by ferry from the main docks at the Taksin Bridge.

The main impressions I am taking away from Bangkok, which I explored more this time than when I was here last, are about shopping, eating and people taking pictures of themselves, everywhere.

Nearly there

I had a long drawn out breakfast with my colleague. It was nice not to have to look at my watch. We talked for hours. We were the only ones from our party who had not left. Downstairs in the lobby an unmanned piano played Auld Lang Syne and other seasonal melodies.

I had planned to have a massage in the morning but my Ethiopian friend E said she’s come to pick me up for a coffee at 9. She never came and I never had my massage. Instead I finished some administrative chores and then went to the airport.

The baggage check revealed something metal in my luggage. To the man behind the computer screen this appeared suspicious. I had to unpack my suitcase. I knew what he was looking for, the bronze Nepali temple bells which I use to indicate that time’s up in my workshops. He asked what they were and I told them they were bells for praying. His supervisor was called and this time I told him these were bells I used for praying. He smiled and decided not to confiscate them when I indicated that I really needed them for my religious practice.

In Nairobi I stepped into the wrong bus, the one that went to the terminal. When I was asked to pay 20 dollars for a transit visa I protested. That is 5 dollars per hour for my 4 hour wait, I said. When the immigration official understood that I wasn’t going to leave the airport I was handed over to a nice gentleman who organized a small bus to take me across the airport to the transit hall.

The KLM double-decker Boeing packed us like sardines, and then, 8 hours later, deposited hundreds of us at a drizzly Schiphol airport before 5 AM. Here I am now, waiting for the next and final leg of this long trip. I feasted on beschuit met kaas in the KLM lounge. I didn’t touch the speculaas or the stroopwafels and licorice because I am still on a no-processed-sugar diet, quite successfully I might say. I am experiencing that mental clarity I was promised 6 weeks ago. Indeed!

Send-offs

My last assignment has been completed, goods delivered, people inspired and ready to change whatever they can around them. I think this is why I am an optimist when it comes to people (and a pessimist when it comes to governments, systems and structures).

We finished today with an Open Space session which was, as usual, a big hit. There were moving and honest conversations about the experience of working in a dysfunctional team, the undiscussables, the double agendas, and working in dysfunctional societies.

I recognize the privilege of going home to a peaceful place when I think about our teams: the team from Burundi returns to a volcano that is waking up, and rumbling ominously. The people from the DRC go back, with all their enthusiasm and good intentions, to a system that can never function properly as long as the top leaders drain the country’s treasury for personal gain, setting the tone for everyone below them. The Niger and Tchad teams go back to a place where Boko Haram roams free and with too many weapons floating across their deserts and environmental calamities always on the horizon. The teams from Madagascar and Togo are probably the best off, with Togo having made it peacefully through an election and Madagascar recovering from a bad spell.

One of our participants had a stroke, probably right after he landed. We noticed his bizarre behavior on the first day. When he started to get incoherent and when we saw his mouth drooping and his hands holding on to the walls when walking, we sent him off to the hospital where he remains until tomorrow.

Tonight we spent about 3 hours going back and forth to the hospital, the airport, the hotel and the hospital again trying to get all the paperwork arranged to fly him back to Lomé tomorrow morning, with the rest of the Togo team. He didn’t recognize us quite yet, although he has improved greatly, walks, and talks again; the attending doctor believes he will recover completely.

And now I am packing my bags for the last time and having some fun with numbers:

8 different hotels (ranging from -1 star to 5 stars); 10 take offs and landings; 1 B-class upgrade; 10 times unpacking and packing my suitcase; 1250 km on the road and 23000 miles in the air; 1 laryngitis, 1 sinusitis, 2 visits to medical establishments (1 for self, 1 for a participant), 6 events; 190 participants; 4 trip reports; 2 linguistic zones; 4 billing codes; 2 writing assignments after hours; 3 other jobs on the night shift; 2 pedicures; 2 massages; unknown numbers of monkeys, lemurs and zebras, 5 sim cards, 2 phones, and 3 passports.


January 2026
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