Archive for the 'On the road' Category



Landed – Kigali City

I arrived in Kigali after an uneventful but long trip; unless the storms in Holland and western Europe count as eventful. All the planes out of Schiphol had to use the same runway which made for an extra hour sitting in the plane, waiting.

On the Amsterdam to Kigali leg there were less sneezers and coughers than on the previous leg, which was a little extreme. Still, there were a few in my neighborhood, so on went the mask. Again, I was the only one. No one else seems to be worried – am I becoming too American, worrying about germs? My two most recent bouts with pneumonia and upper respiratory illness during the entire length of my stay in Burkina and later in Madagascar have made me a little paranoid.

I might as well have arrived in a new country, even the capital  is no longer simply Kigali, but Kigali City. So far I have not recognized anything except the hotel Mille Collines that our driver pointed out to me. I did recognize a former colleague on the plane. She now works for another organization in DC as their capacity building expert. Her new job allows her to fly business class – such luck! They must not have much competition if they can afford the steep B-class fares for their staff.

I had settled in my hotel room feeling as if I just had stepped off a long boat ride, with the hotel room swaying as if there was an earthquake (there wasn’t – just my brain playing tricks one me).

I called room service for a plastic bag with ice for my sore shoulder. But how to do that in a country that has banned plastic bags (the sturdy yellow Schiphol bags are perfect for icing). Before embarking we were told that we should leave all plastic bags on the plane.  The nice room service girl came up with a bucket of ice, a mesh bag (not plastic) and a hairnet (also not plastic and full of holes) to put the ice in. I don’t think she understood the purpose and looked very concerned when I told her I was injured and needed to get the inflammation down. She offered to call a doctor.  As soon as she left the room I took one of the many small plastic bags that the TSA requires for liquids and was able to ice myself without getting soaked. I think such bags are legal.

Tomorrow I will meet the new team, which consists mostly of old-timers. One of the newcomers authored several books and studies on leadership in East Asia which I devoured for a writing assignment some years ago. What a surprise to meet him here in faraway Africa, and now a colleague of mine.

Travelling again

I am back on the road, after 2 months on the ground, something that is rather rare. I am off to warmer places, a welcome change after the intense cold spell in Massachusetts.

I nearly forgot the routine. Luckily I put my face masks in my hand luggage at the last minute because I have never been on a plane with so many coughers and sneezers, including my neighbor.  I pressed the mask tightly on and only lifted it for drinking sips of water and taking my meals, so there were some breaches; fingers crossed.

I waved my breakfast in the plane in order to leave room for the much better offerings in the KLM lounge: beschuit met kaas, beschuit met hagelslag, poffertjes and speculaas koekjes. This is where I get my fix of Dutch goodies not available in the US.

I am off on a combo trip: first two weeks in Rwanda where I last landed in 1992. It is a different country now, in many ways, traumatized still, I presume. How could one not, with the generation that survived the slaughter still alive, and adults with unspeakable memories from childhood. And then there is the language, from French to English, although I am told there are still plenty of (older) French speakers around who struggle with English.

I am facilitating the launch of a new project that is actually not all that new, a follow-on of the previous one that we also held, and so many staff continue on, with some new employees and new partners.  We will hold this workplanning retreat off site, some 100 km from Kigali in a place called Gisenyi, on the border with the DRC. I was there too 23 years ago.  We walked across the border into what was then Zaire to experience super-inflation: 2.5 million Zaires, the currency then, bought me a tube of toothpaste. I still have a few of the million Zaire bills, kept as a souvenir of a different era. I also have some Rwandan money from that time.

In my second week in Rwanda the project staff will sit down with its government counterparts and go over their plans to make sure everyone is aligned and expectations can be met.

After that I will fly to Nairobi for a short stay to meet a new hire, the woman who will take over my role as Global Technical Lead for leadership and management. I hope that the new energy she brings and her new ideas will enrich us. I have, after all, been at MSH for 28 years and an injection of something new is called for.

From there I will go to Addis for a brief orientation of ICRC coordinators to prepare them for their role in a senior leadership program that will kick off after my surgery, when I am allowed to travel again, sometime in April.

Travelling for points

On my trip home I discovered that there are people who buy cheap tickets and fly very far in order to get to the next tier of their frequent flyer status. My neighbor flew to Nairobi via Dubai to arrive on Friday night and leave on Sunday evening just before Thanksgiving, and will repeat this right after. With that he hoped to achieve the highest level, diamond. In back of us were other people who also made trips for the miles.

I asked what he did while in Nairobi. It seemed not much. He bought a book, which he was still reading, sat by the pool and he may have seen the giraffe park. I suggested he pay a visit to Nairobi national park on his next trip.

He asked me whether I got upgraded to business class with my diamond status. I told him no, I never was and that the most important perk, priority lane, was already available with gold.  Other than Axel getting a companion gold status (but he never travels) and a few extra miles, there wasn’t much difference in benefits between gold and diamond.

I arrived in an overcast Massachusetts and a windy Lobster Cove and unpacked the goodies I brought back from Ethiopia and Holland. It had required a whole extra bag to check, filled with coffee beans, cheese, corenwijn (a kind of jenever), licorice and chocolate and some Saint Nicholas candy that will have to wait until Christerklaas evening on December 24.

Eat Fest

The 24 plus hours I spent in Holland went very fast. I stayed in Amersfoort which lies more or less in the center of the country, and is the place where my youngest brother and his wife recently moved to.

On Sundays the train company does essential maintenance on otherwise busy routes (Schiphol – Amsterdam) in the night and early morning. This was the first part of the route I had to take to Amersfoort. A few of us lone travelers, coming from afar, were directed to a bus which took us to a station further east. We rode the empty bus through a dark and cold and completely deserted Holland. The station where we were dropped off was also cold and empty. If I had been a foreigner I would have been completely lost what to do next. There was no soul to give explanations and even the escalators to the platforms were inoperative. I was glad I had travelled lightly.

It took 2 hours to what would otherwise have been a short trip. Although now 8 AM, the station at my destination was also mostly empty though the coffee and bakery place was open and I started consuming the first of the many Dutch goodies on my wish list.

My siblings had been alerted to my brief stopover. They started to arrive shortly after I went on a shopping spree to get for Axel and the girls the things that are on their wish list: licorice, stroopwafels and traditional Saint Nicholas candy: random chocolate letters (the s, t and a’s were already sold out) and cheese.

Three nephews, one niece, two with significant others, two with toddlers, plus my sister and her husband arrived for a few hours of catching up and more eating which practically left us gasping for air. After everyone left, as if we needed dinner, we continued with my wish list: raw herring (and one left for breakfast and one for eating in the KLM lounge), boerenkool met worst (kale/potato stew with sausage) and then, as grand finale, mousse au chocolat with whipped cream.

I fell into a bottomless sleep, compensating for the lost hours during the flight from Kenya and filled with joys and worries about family members who are doing well and those that are not.

And now it is time for the last leg of this trip, to Boston. I got Axel his Corenwijn, Sita and Tessa their cumin cheese and Faro a little surprise, the only thing that cannot be connsumed. I had to get an other bag to carry everything home and dropped the idea of carry-on luggage only.

Where we come from

We ended the training of trainers on a high note. Some of the heavy fog that most participants experienced on day one had lifted to a comfortable level. We celebrated the hard work and wished each other well and then parted.

Together with the Myanmar delegation I headed for the coffee place Tomoca to pick up some pounds of one of Ethiopia’s most prized export products. We filled four big bags with small and large containers with Yirgacheffe and Harrar coffee. The aroma wafting out of the bags made me  want to stop for a double machiato but we were runing out of time.  The coffee at our hotel was terrible, I tried it once and was cured. It had a sharp burned taste. As a result I had very little of the good stuff while in Addis. I hope to make up for the lost opportunity back home.

A few of us went out to a restaurant within walking distance and celebrated some more over dinner with some bottles of local wine.Breaking bread together is always the best part of these trips as I learn so much about where people came from, why they chose the professions they did and what they are dreaming of.

In each of these stories luck and perseverance play the main roles. One of our participants grew up in a large family (many siblings and then many more cousins), so large that the family could only afford one meal a day – after he came back from school. It was a ‘grab-what-you-can-get meal.’ It has produced a life-long habit of eating only one meal a day. It is rather humbling for those of us with a snack habit in addition to three meals a day.

That he became a physical therapist was purely by accident, or rather luck – being discovered by missionaries, preparing for priesthood, then falling in love and dropping that career. An unskilled job at a place for people with disabilities earned him a scholarship in Africa, then one in Germany, one in Holland,  andsoforth. Now is a successful professional, a father of five adult children who have gotten degrees in the US, in Canada and elsewhere. If it wasn’t for those missionaries and then the girl he fell in love with, things would have gone quite different for this man and his family.

Others chose the career of helping people with disabilities to live full and productive lives because of a family member who became disabled and all are now involved in educating the next generation. I am very happy to contribute to the work there are doing in my own small ways.

Moving to the side

We are halfway the training of trainers of small teams representing ICRC staff and centers that offer rehab services in Myanmar, DRC, Togo, Tanzania and Ethiopia. It has been a nice change from our usual counterparts – people more familiar with orthopedic devices and physical therapy than approaches to improve management and leadership in and of their centers.  Yet this is the role they take on when they get back to their respective countries.

The group is a mixture of nationals and expats, mostly from France and Switzerland, who are supporting the local staff. Since I am the only French speaker among the facilitators, I accompany the Togo and DRC teams and getting to know them better than the others. Some of the people I will meet again in two months, in Addis, when we start preparing for a senior leadership program focused on those people in leadership positions who can open doors or support the efforts of those we are with now.

We have a team of 4 facilitators which makes our duties fairly light when it comes to plenary sessions, but intense when it comes to the practical sessions when we serve as coaches and help the participants get familiar with our methods of teaching. They are starting to do more and more while we slowly move to the side. It’s one of the joys of my job.

At the end of the day we review the day, plan the next, make adjustments and drink our St. George Amber beer. Then we sample the many restaurant offerings (Turkish, Mediterranean, Ethiopian of course). And so the days slide by quickly and I begin to wonder when I will be able to sneak out and buy the coffee that Axel is surely expecting me to bring back.

Since I am working primarily with people from outside Ethiopia, I do not have to deal with the confusing way of counting time here. It is the year 2007 I believe, and the date, when I arrived, according to my driver, was 3.5 or 5.3, which I assume is the day and the month, not sure which one of their 13 months. I also don’t need to worry about appointment times where 3 o’clock means 9 o’clock and 1 o’clock could be either 7 AM or 7 PM.

A new awareness

This looks like my last trip of the year – there were 9 such trips, an annual average. I broke the trip in Nairobi which allowed me a good night sleep before getting on the plane to Addis where I join three colleagues for a week’s worth of work – a training of trainers for MSH’s leadership and management development program for teams from rehabilitation centers in 6 countries. The break turned out to be a bit longer than planned when the morning flight to Addis was cancellled, leaving me with the happy prospect of spending close to 10 hours at Jomo Kenyatta International Airport. These are the small frustrations that sometimes accompany my travel.

Our work in Addis is supported by USAID’s Democracy, Conflict and Humanitarian Assistance office. This office also supports the work with wheelchair providers I have been involved in over the last 2 years. It is a new focus area for MSH and one that has been intensely rewarding and humbling. It has made me aware of the plight of people with disabilities who live in low and middle income countries (and puts a 10 hour wait at the Kenya airport in prespective). Now, I pay attention to sidewalks, I look at entrances to toilets and I am seeing things I never noticed before: places that are not accessible to people who use wheelchairs – people who use transport wheelchairs for daily living, wheelchairs cobbled together from plastic garden chairs, bamboo poles and other inventive creations, all wrong for people who have to live in such things as these frames are not supporting their bodies and can create havoc on skin, bone and muscle development, especially in young children.

I will be travelling for this agenda more in the coming year and I am happy about my small contributions to making the world a little more manageable for people with disabilities and a little more aware about the accommodations we all have to make.

Buy-in and ownership

On the flight from Amsterdam to Nairobi I watched a two hour documentary on the ten year renovation of the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam. It is a tale of perseverance, human frailties, citizen input, ingenuity, and, most importantly, the difference between ownership and buy-in.

With our governance work we talk a lot about listening to the voices of the people, as if that is easy. The Rijksmuseum documentary shows what you have to be prepared for when you invite those voices in – in this case the voices of the bicyclists – and I can see why people prefer not to bring those voices in as it complicated matters beyond belief.

If your focus is on buy-in, rather than ownership, then the choice seems to be about anticipating a brief and intense outcry when all is said and done or an agonizing and drawn out process of arguing and trying to convince the other side, which in Amsterdam took 10 years and contributed greatly to increased cost and delays. The conflict was eventually resolved, all parties are happy now, but the price was high. If anyone calculated the costs and looked at the pros and cons of inviting the voices of the people in, I am sure the cost-benefit analysis would counsel for ignoring potential opponents and deal with the outcry later when things cannot be changed anymore. Eventually, one may expect, people get on with their lives and the protest will die down, except for a few very vocal people who may continue to speak up.

I am a fervent proponent of listening to the voices of those affected and involved to avoid problems down the line. The documentary showed clearly why we should never go for buy-in if we can go for ownership from the get go.  Getting buy-in is selling. In a highly politicized environment such selling tends to pit groups against each other into adversarial roles, amplifying parochial and narrow self-interests.

Getting ownership starts with the creation of a shared vision where everyone can see that their interests are recognized, even if not fully realized, but this for the sake of an overarching aspiration that everyone wants. The documentary shows why going for buy-in later is always more difficult (and very costly) than co-creating in the first place.

Fall fun

The doctor stopped calling about my temperature. I must have convinced him that I was in the clear. But I am not telling people anymore. This is of course the unintended side effects of the panic.

My brother and his wife came for a brief visit, in between visits to both our daughters where they got to see how they live in beautiful New England places. And our beautiful place of course. They mostly lucked out about the weather and got to see a fall festival in Rockport with cooks (female Italian and male French)competing on how to turn mystery seafood (only disclosed when they were at their stations) into a prize winning meal.

Of course we ate lobster and other seafood and then sent them off on a romantic weekend on deserted Cape Cod. When the big storm came they retreated to Boston and skyped me from a noisy Irish Pub to say they had a great time. They are off today, flying back to Holland.

Yesterday I took the train to New Haven for two workdays with Yale’s School of Public Health which is a partner on one of our global projects.

I took the train to avoid rush hour and long rides in the car from Boston to New Haven and back. It was both pleasant and scenic, along the Rhode Island and Connecticut coast. The train delivered me in rainy New Haven where an Egyptian taxi driver helped me practice the remnants of my Arabic while driving me to my AirBNB, an old Victorian house on a tree-lined street not far from the university. He had come 15 years ago in pursuit of the American dream. Had he found it, I wondered. “I now have what Americans have.” But it did not include a wife and children, nor his own taxi. He had gone from shipping containers in Egypt to driven a taxi in New Haven. I wondered what he had given up for this but the ride was over and I will never know,

My hostess was not home and she had instructed me to let myself in through the backdoor. It is a weird experience to sneak into the house of a total stranger like that. As it turned out I surprised the boyfriend who was fixing the media center; just like in the olden days when boyfriends fixed the stereo.

Women power

I don’t think I have ever heard a group of about 40 African men speak freely about their feelings in the company of their bosses and peers. But something got sparked over the last few days and the district teams were truly on fire last night after, they talked about saying ‘thank you’ more often (this is rather counter-cultural), reflecting on their own contributions to tensions and conflicts, turning complaints into requests and coaching their teams.

We completed the program with a lot of ‘feel good’ speeches but also exhortations to now stay the course. I am glad that I went, in spite of warnings from around me to stay in bed and recover fully. I am recovered fully now.

With Malalai getting the Nobel Peace Prize, the observations and contributions from the handful of women in our program and a recent blogpost on MSH’s website  (about a brave Nigerian woman who may have singlehandedly stopped the spread of Ebola in Nigeria, I am once again reminded what singularly important role women play in society and how men, who don’t let them develop or use their talents, are shooting themselves and the rest of us in the foot.


January 2026
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