Archive for the 'On the road' Category



Out and about in Pakistan

Yesterday we finally made it out of Sheratonland into Karachi and Pakistan, modern Pakistan that is. Modern Pakistan feels a bit like Dubai. We went to the mall which was as fancy but not as filled as the minor malls in Dubai – the same stores, many even the same as in the US. The only local touch was provided by the countless shalwar kameez and fabric stores. Pakistan is a major textile producer and processor. The designs and colors are blinding, extravagant and original.

We had lunch at the food court which could have been anywhere. We ignored the western chains and drifted towards the subcontinental ones. Chowpatty served me a vegetable thali with a lassi – at least it felt as if I was on the subcontinent.

This evening we went to a brand new park called Port Grand, according to a plaque, created by a leisure corporation and opened by two important functionaries in May 2011. It is landscaped around the harbor and under the freeways, prettied up with candelabras dangling from the freeway concrete and with small entertainment kiosks along the walk ways. Entertainment includes Tarot readings and astrologers who promise to turn your bad times into good times. Food stalls and medium fast food restaurants line the water’s edge on a pier with Yanni music blaring loud into our ears. Only the fancy shalwar kameezes of the women and girls and a few men in traditional garb gave away that we were in Pakistan.

I am learning that the shalwar kameez fashion is very long again, ankle length. When I wore my long bangladeshi outfit in 2008 local girls snickered about how out of fashion I was – the tunics then being very short. So here too the hemline goes up and down, except this has no bearing on what is revealed of the legs, since underneath are always the pants, baggy or tight.

We ate at a kebab place overlooking the harbor and taking in the harbor smells (mostly kerosene). We tried a variety of kebabs, fish, mutton, beef and chicken. Except for the naan it was an all animal protein dinner – I have drifted far away from my mainly vegetarian diet in the US. We finished our dinner with kulfi (local ice-cream) on a stick that came out of a wooden box, and masala chai variations cooked on small burners by Paxtuns who didn’t speak a word of English. All the while we shook hands with giggling girls on an evening stroll with grandma. We often forget in the US that terrorist-producing places like Pakistan have grandmas on evening strolls with their granddaughters, licking fast melting ice-cream from a stick.

Earlier in the morning we met the senior staff of the organization we are having a workshop with next week and aligned expectations. In the middle of that I had a coughing fit – I am still recovering from a nasty cold that either came from fellow travelers or from my grandson.

Afternoon naps are still a must – the long trip and the cold really took a bite out of me. And then of course I stay up till long past midnight, trying to get back in a rhythm. It is good that we have some slack time.

Dubai-Karachi

From Amsterdam to Dubai I made good progress on a piece of embroidery that has been in the works for two years now, while listening to books on tape downloaded from the Manchester library on my iPAD. It made for a very fast 5 hour flight.

Dubai was quieter than I had expected, with nearly as many sales people, trying to get us to buy things we don’t need, as passengers. Dubai is full of memories of our many trips in and out of Kabul. Despite its bad rap, we have always liked the place (though not necessarily the airport). If you can let go of the rampant materialism you can marvel at the mingling of races, (life)styles, ideologies, traditions and dress that are stirred together in this ancient crossroads. I had dinner at midnight in a restaurant chain that serves fried seafood next to raw seafood. It is the same chain in which I had one of my last meals in South Africa about a month ago, only this time there was no beer or sake served alongside the sushi.

The flight from Dubai to Karachi, which I had dreaded, thinking it would be like the flights to Dhaka, turned out better than expected. The people who travel to Karachi are quite different from those who travel to Dhaka – more western dress, more English speakers and more cosmopolitan. I also had three chairs to myself and slept through most of the short flight (1.5 hours).

The airport in Karachi was jam packed with long lines at the immigration hall. One young American woman was sheparding 23 American/Pakistani kids into the country, apologizing left and right as she was figuring out how the immigration officials handled groups (they didn’t). I thought she was brave to have volunteered for the job and wished her well. There was a special line for unaccompanied ladies and children, which I joined, bypassing hundreds of men, many apparently coming back from a pilgrimage to Saudi Arabia.

The nice young man from the Sheraton greeted me inside the arrival hall, which was wonderful once I left it and saw the packed crowds outside with rows and rows of mostly men, pressing on flimsy gates.

Outside the air smelled of roses. The ground was covered with red rose petals. My young guide explained that it had something to do with the pilgrimage. I love arrival halls at airports mostly because of the happiness and affection that is displayed as passengers are greeted by family, friends and well-wishers. This place was no difference except for the added carpet of rose petals and the thick rose fragrance that overwhelmed the usual smell of jet fuel, hot asphalt and car exhaust fumes.

Once we left the airport, the traffic jam dissolved and we drove into town on nearly empty roads. It was dark and I couldn’t get a good sense of the city. What I saw reminded me of Dhaka but also of Abidjan and Entebbe, a generic developing country metropolis. The bill boards for luxury items, the high rises, the McDonald strategically placed across from the arrival hall, as well as my Sheraton pick up man, with his dreams of getting an electrical engineering PhD in Australia are of one world; black-clad veiled women, clustering around their menfolk dressed in traditional garb with their wild and sometimes henna-ed hair and beards are of another world altogether; still, all of it is Pakistan. I sympathized with those who try to govern this place.

The Sheraton hotel is hidden behind a high wall guarded by men in uniforms with guns and equipment to detect bombs. Once you are let in you can believe you are in a small town with a short but quiet road passing small shops. More security to get into the hotel itself, though the metal detector didn’t detect my metal ankle brace. Since our workshop is in this hotel we may actually not experience all that much what Karachi is all about.

Wet and sweet Holland

I landed in Holland after a seemingly endless descent through thick cloud cover. It made me think about the early aviators who didn’t have instruments and had to find ‘holes’ in the clouds, sometimes discovering that the hole was only a few feet above the ground. Some of these descents didn’t end well.

Below the clouds everything looked very wet. Holland is a land of water, existing because of and in spite of the water. I once translated a famous Dutch poem about Holland. It is all about water too, and low skies. The poem makes me a little homesick. But I am no longer used to low hanging skies and water. I generally prefer Massachusetts.

The KLM lounge is a pleasant place to hang out between flights. I can eat stuff I miss in the US, such as ‘poffertjes’ (tiny one inch pancakes), mini ‘stroopwafels’ (thin flat waffle cookies stuck together with molasses), ‘speculaasjes’ (spice cookies), ‘krentebollen’ (raisin rolls) that are best with a slice of old Dutch cheese in the middle and cream puffs, filled with real whipped cream – I had a few too many of those. And now there is even ‘muntdrop’ – a large jar filled with my favorite kind of licorice. It is no wonder that I gain on average 5 pounds during a trip. I had just lost the five pounds from my previous trip and so I can start all over again. After posting this two hostesses came around with a platter with (raw) herring, also on my top Dutch foods list; and there was more, small tubes filled with ‘osseworst’ and ‘filet americain,’ two raw meat spreads, like steak tartare, that I miss much in the US.

You can also take a shower which is a nice way to pass the time while washing off the previous flight and get ready for the next 6 hours in a small cramped space.

And now it is time to turn my attention to the Pakistan work. We will be working with an organization that looks very together. I am not sure it needs any help related to organizational functions, my department. My colleague from Johns Hopkins will focus on social and behavior change communication approaches, products, strategies and techniques. That’s where the real work might be.

Learning Dutch

I am on the road again, after a glorious Indian Summer weeks in Manchester. We were surprised by a visit from Sita, Jim and Faro on Friday night which allowed us to check out his increasing vocabulary. He now copies every word we say. He is retaining some Dutch word, which would probably have been incomprehensible to all but his parents and myself. I taught him about milky tea, een kopje thee, which sounds something like ‘kupatay.’ We know he is speaking Dutch and liking brown bread cubes withh Marmite and milky tea, just like a Dutch kid would.

My sister sent me a wonderful picture book that has all sorts of land- and seascapes, each one having four things in common, not always obviously so: a fakir on a flying carpet, a yellow balloon, a blue delivery truck and an prisoner on the run. Faro is entirely pre-occupied with the blue truck. His boy brain seems to be wired to recognize trucks. I keep telling him the Dutch word for yellow balloon, he recognizes it but speaks about a lello balou-balou. So we have a ways to go. But expanding the Dutch vocabulary in the face of such fast advances in English makes me wonder whether I can keep up with this. I went through this decades ago and gave up. But people tell me not to, this time.

I did not get the chair re-upholstered before my departure but I was able to put most of the chair back together, more or less as it was, without piping here and there. I am pleased with the results, recognizing the flaws that no one else seems to notice. Something stuck from my upholstery education all these years ago.

Tricky business

I made a quick trip to Washington to facilitate a one day event where reproductive health professionals came together to explore some very tricky business. How does one raise awareness about sexual and reproductive health among young people living in urban slums, in poverty, orphaned or near orphaned with none of the kind of support systems that are associated with resilience.

Researchers shared their findings that showed that the catchall term of urban youth is not that helpful as it hides significant differences. Another reported on attempts to quantify girls’ vulnerability so that we can come up with baselines and endlines, evaluating whether this or that project actually reduced this vulnerability; and then we listened to people working with urban youth groups in Baltimore, DC, Nigeria, Mozambique, Kenya, Malawi and a multitude of other places.

We had structured the design so that my facilitation job was rather easy. An associate of Sita provided the scribing that she usually does – she was engaged someplace else – and wowed the participants with his translation into images of what was discussed. I am now so used to having a scribe in the room that I cannot imagine doing such a forum without one.

Next

Sometimes it feels as if I am in one of those road race machines that you find at malls – as soon as you have maneuvered past one set of difficult sections of the road, new and challenging road sections appear on the horizon. The road glides underneath the car and new horizons appear, until the quarter is used up. Such fun!

My quarter is not up for a long while, at least that is the plan. I feel good about the work done in Uganda and South Africa. I worked with two different colleagues, both insightful and very competent individuals, a pleasure to work with. We did well – developed a robust design and then implemented it as planned and produced the outcomes we had intended. While completing the writing tasks for this assignment, I am already looking ahead and designing the next event, and the next, and the next.

The first ‘next’ is a forum about urban youth and reproductive health in developing countries. It is put up by Johns Hopkins and I get to work with one of Sita’s partners. This will be a domestic trip, to Washington D.C. The next ‘next’ is Pakistan, barely three weeks from now. This trip has been postponed more times than I care to remember. When I turned on the news this morning and the earthquake in Pakistan was announced I wondered for a brief moment whether a trip to Pakistan was simply not in the stars. And there are two nexts queuing up after that: Uganda again, maybe, and then Afghanistan in the new year.

I am experiencing my last very frustrating minutes in this country trying to connect on the internet. My attempts are in vain, messing up my schedule for the third time today. Oh the things we take for granted, being ‘on’ all the time. I have much sympathy for my colleagues in various parts of Africa who deal with this every day.

On my way to the airport I will visit an old friend with whom I worked now nearly 20 years ago in what was then a newly free South Africa. We did a lot of reminiscing last week and will continue some more but this time in her new home in the hilly suburbs of Pretoria. And then it is off to Sietske in Aalsmeer and then home. 

Security

I have been in Pretoria for just about 2 days now. It is cool, overcast and windy. It is supposed to be spring and the Jacaranda trees ought to be filling the streets of Pretoria with their purple flowers. But instead they are dry and leafless. The fields between Jo’burg and Pretoria are brown and yellow. Everything screams for rain. This is not the always-blue-skied-and-warm Pretoria I remember.

I have been tying up loose ends, still picking through the mailbox that overflowed during my week off the grid, now nearly a month ago. I am also getting organized for my coaching exam that I hope to do within the next 2 months, in between getting ready for my next assignment that starts on Wednesday.

This morning I watched the news about Kenya. I have stayed many times in the section of Nairobi that is called Westlands. I remember that mall being built. It is exactly the kind of place to go for some distraction after a week of hard work. The scenes, panic and pronouncements by officials make me think about the illusion of security.

Life is not safe. It never was. In the past people succumbed to marauders, pirates, natural disasters, honor and revenge killings, scurvy, microbes, reproductive hazards, arbitrary laws, landlords, and fundamentalists, just to name a few. Now all these things are still happening; they may be called by a different name. Thanks to ‘development’ these may happen to smaller proportions of the population but since there are more of us, the numbers are higher. And in their accounts the media scare us to death.

Experts talk about the lax security at malls and how predictable this was; any place where people gather in great numbers make good targets for spreading mayhem and terror. So we put security guards at entrances – low paid people, with no authority or power, not the kind that could protect me, take on people armed with AK-47s, or fight back. I don’t think I have ever seen a well-fed and muscular security guard on my travels.

At any rate, I don’t think it makes any difference. Security, whether lax, as it is in most places I visit, or strict as I imagined it to have been at the Navy Yard, seems to do little to stave off attacks by individuals determined to cause mayhem and terror. The hotel in Uganda had two bored people sitting by a metal detector. I’d put my stuff into a plastic tub and walked through the detector which would always go off yet no one paid attention. The staff would not even look in my purse and simply move the plastic tub across the little table next to the metal gate. Sometimes they waved me through and I didn’t even have to put anything in the bin or even walk through the metal detector. And so we can go through life scared all the time or live and be lucky enough not to be at the wrong place when disaster strikes.

One down, one to go

My co-facilitator has left after a day of debriefs, next steps and new assignments, two actually, falling into my lap which may require another trip to Uganda later this year. I am settling on the last trips for 2013: Pakistan and then Uganda.

We completed the retreat that produced a solid first draft of a strategic plan, with choices made and focus areas clarified. We looked for things that cost money and where the money could come from and things that can be attached to activities already funded. It was hard work, three days of hard work indeed.

We ended the retreat with everyone plastering everyone else with colored sticky notes indicating what everyone had appreciated about everyone else. We were quite a sight and parted on a high note.

Susan and I celebrated the completion of our assignment with our last Indian meal at the terrace looking out over Lake Victoria in the cool evening air, cleared by monsoon like rains during the day. We have been eating superb Indian food all week long and had pretty much exhausted the choices on the menu.

Today we finally made it out of the resort hotel and headed into Kampala proper. We had lunch with our client and then headed out to the MSH office to meet colleagues known only via Skype or email, shook hands with some of the 200+ office staff we have here in Kampala, met the chief and a colleague I have known for decades who is now one of the four project directors.

I packed my suitcase watching Ugandan TV and was surprised to see a special on vasectomy. That would not have been possible a decade ago I believe. A banner ran at the bottom of the screen stating that ‘experts target men as population spirals.’ I have been wondering ever since what that means.

Victoria views

We are lodged at the Speke Commonwealth Munyanyo Resort. It is a vast conference complex on the shore of Lake Victoria. “It is the biggest lake in Africa,” said the young man who was showing me my room, proudly.

My room looks out at the man-made Marina where a few fancy pleasure boats are moored plus a few canoes, upgraded versions of the traditional hollowed out tree trunks. We hired one yesterday for a spin around the section of the vast lake where the resort is located. There are birds everywhere: grebes, egrets, marabout vultures, kingfishers, and many I cannot name.

Breakfast is served on a wide porch that the British knew so well to construct in the buildings you can find all over the commonwealth. The main impetus behind this is, I believe, the sundowner as these terraces are always facing the setting sun. It is kind of a G&T place.

On my first breakfast I was just about the only woman on the enormous porch, surrounded by at least 50 men. I didn’t recognize their language, it sounded rather unfamiliar, and their skin color didn’t give much away, a generic pale coffee color. I asked and discovered they were don Turkey. I was able to greet them in their own language, to their great surprise.

The road to green heaven

The trip home consisted of various etapes. First there was the ride from Porto Novo to Cotonou. Chauffeur Nestor expertly wove through four lanes of traffic on a two lane road and was a true guide as I had a million questions about what I saw. All these new looking cars coming our way? Bought on the second hand car market outside Cotonou (voitures fatiguees d’Europe). The tired cars had been cleaned up and looked new and spiffy and were on their way to Nigeria where there is no port to import such things, at least not in bordering Yoruba land.

Then there are all the gasoline people, selling gasoline from rickety wooden platforms, bought cheaply in Nigeria. The gasoline is poured in and out of Whisky bottles, Coca-Cola bottles, water cooler bottles, anything that can hold the liquid and can be carried by a person across borders where no one is paying attention. The content of the bottles varies in color: from dark brown, deep orange, to the color of pee of a well hydrated person or a not so hydrated person. There are no gas stations on this stretch as no formal market could compete with the informal. This is how things work here.

Motorbikes are everywhere. They are the primary means of transport: taxis, haulers, movers. Whole families ride on such conveniences, toddlers squeezed between adults, babies like little cabooses dangling from mom’s back. I was too slow to pull my camera to catch a fisherman with a load of enormous (6 feet) rays draped over the back of his motorcycle.

The road is only 35 kilometer long and, like on the way up, it took us one and a half hour, a very entertaining one and a half hour I might say.

After a swift check-in with the ever so friendly Beninois I learned that the Air France plane was going to make an unscheduled stop in Niamey to pick up passengers who had been stranded for 24 hours. If that sounds like fun, it wasn’t, especially not for the families with 4 or five small children and babies who had been camping in the airport for all that time, run out of diapers and food and kids that were beyond tired.

Settling everyone into our plane took much longer than expected, both getting people in seats, especially moms with babies, and baggage in the hold. My seat mate was reseated to make way first for this mom and baby pair and then that one. In the end all the moms and babies were seated elsewhere and I had an empty chair instead of a crying baby next to me.

All the fuss delayed our departure, the serving of our dinner until 3:00 AM and our arrival at CDG until 8:30 AM as opposed to the promised 5:30 AM. At the gigantic CDG complex we were parked somewhere in the countryside, halfway to Paris, after a 20 minute taxi ride and then bussed back for another 20 minutes to terminal 2E where all the holiday makers of the world seemed to be converging. Needless to say I was not in a good mood. I barely made my connection.

Axel picked me up, we had lunch on the way home – lots of greens and freshness to make up for a week of yellow and white starch. The last mile I did on my bike, recuperated from the bike repair shop where it had been readied for our Cape Cod vacation.

Back home I parked my bike at our lusciously green vegetable garden, filled myself up with raspberries, fresh snow peas, beans, and then picked dinner: fresh eggplant, fresh beets, more beans and peas, an all-fresh-vegetable dinner. I am in heaven!


January 2026
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