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Expectations

After our meeting with our donor I had my performance review with my boss, sitting in the back of a pick up truck. By the time we arrived at the office I had my rating (meet expectations) which will be communicated with HQ to determine my salary increment. It is not easy to get the higher ratings of ‘exceed expectations,’ let alone the highest one of ‘outstanding.’

I would of course have liked to get an ‘exceeded expectations,’ but I am not sure anyone knows what can be expected of me, here, in the nebulous arena of capacity building in management and leadership. My conversation with my boss, as well as my own preparation for this, had highlighted again how difficult it is to be in the business of ‘building capacity’ at the most senior levels of a government bureaucracy in a place where there’s a bit of a leadership crisis, not just in the ministry but everywhere in this country, from top to bottom.

The dilemma in my job is that it is easy to improve leadership and management in a place that is well led and well managed; such places don’t need us of course. But here, where management skills, even at the highest levels, are inshort supply and where there is essentially a leadership vacuum, combined with much activity at various levels that cannot withstand scrutiny, there is only so much we can do.

We can, and we do suggest or, if we have a boss’ blessing, put into place processes, procedures, create plan templates, facilitate planning meetings and all that, but we cannot make the boss hold his (rarely her) staff accountable for results, get rid of dead wood or manage politically well connected non performers.

As outsiders who are not holding many strings, we can tell our superiors about corruption stories (oh there are so many, and such clever ones: donated hospital blankets sold in the bazaar while the old hospital blankets are cut in two so that the numbers add up; or old rancid oil used for cooking the hospital food while the fresh oil is sold in the bazaar) – but we can’t do much about it.

Some people at the highest levels are sincerely trying to stamp such practices out while others have a stake in not succeeding. The only way to not get too depressed about is to soldier on and hope that the honest higher ups will eventually prevail and lightning will hit the dishonest ones.

Another dilemma I was confronted with today is about speaking out as a kharidja, a foreigner, whose voice and opinion is more respected (say some people). I am encouraged to be more forceful and forthcoming with my opinion while at the other hand building the capacity of my staff to be listened to and respected. In my view the former undermines the latter and so I tend to be more of a coach than the provider of expert opinion.

And of course everything everyone tells me is only an opinion that may, or may not be shared by nil or thousands.

In a jam

The main road through Karte Parwan, past the Intercon Hotel and Bagh-e-Bala is being improved, expanded and paved (‘cooked’). There are two wide lanes, paved and ready for use, but at rush hour only one was open. The lane should be able to hold three cars abreast (there are no white lines) but somehow nine lanes had pressed into the space for three; six lanes going our way and three in the opposite direction.

The whole place was one large parking lot and our driver, Hadji Safar, decided to take a short cut off on the left, but we got even more hopelessly stuck. He managed to turn the car around between two jewies (open sewers) without getting his wheels over the edge and ease back into the space we had formerly occupied. It was a good occasion to quote the saying, ‘faster is slower.’ It took us 2 hours to get form the ministry of health back to our house, a distance of only a few kilometres, 25 minutes on a good day.

I was lucky that i was not traveling along. My co-passenger was one of my staff. We killed the time by deconstructing a complex mess-up in the office that we can ascribe lightly to cultural differences, or deeply to things more sinister (or just the other way around). In the end we agreed that an Afghan proverb described the situation best: if my heart is not narrow, no place can be narrow (aga delem tang nabasha, jay tang neest).

All along during the drive, cheek by jowl with other motorists, I made a point of smiling to people who looked tense. I was able, each time, to get a smile back. I consider this good preventive medicine in a place where road rage can easily get out of hand given the amount of guns that are floating around here; no doubt some of them in the cars we encounter or travel alongside with.

At the ministry we had attended a meeting that was designed to get organizations like us to pay for staff and other things (nobody even nibbled on the request for the new headquarters). It was one of these meetings with multiple layers of meaning. After the meeting, during our long ride home, I understood what was really going on and realized that our response had been the wrong one – a moral high road maybe, but missing the boat in other ways.

The endless requests for things, people, stuff, money is at times exasperating, yet entirely understandable. For one, the strategy ultimately works as there is always someone who is willing to sign the check. In this case that should have been us. Not offering to hire staff would essentially undo a few years of capacity building, as the capacity that we did built is about to slip from our hands – contracts are up and there are better offers out there. There are no easy solutions and we are too far ahead in this game of hiring the people the government needs but cannot afford, to turn our backs.

Thwuck thwuck

Thwuck, thwuck, thwuck went the helicopters, rattling our thin glass windows in their poorly constructed frames. They veered south, no more than 500 feet over our heads. A first one batch of 5 and then another batch. In between there was the rumble of low flying planes, labouring towards something that required this much airpower. Off to the unruly, unruled and unrulable south?

The people flying these things, Americans I supposes, are also working in Afghanistan, just like me. For them working in Afghanistan is an entirely different ball game. I sit here with the door to the garden open, listening to the twitter of birds and the voices of children, playing real ball games.

I am reading Dexter Filkins’ The Forever War and in doing so catch a glimpse of the stuff that happens far from our beds, the ugly stuff about this (and Iraq’s) forever war. It’s the picture that most people have of Afghanistan. It is very different from ours.

This morning I handed out the pictures Axel took during our outing this weekend, to the drivers and guards who came with us. The neat thing about Axel’s graphic design skills is that he has everything set up to print out pictures. When we go on a walk to a place we have been before, he prints the pictures and we hand them out, nearly like a Polaroid, except much nicer quality. It is what I have always wanted to do but am never set up to do. People love to have their picture taken here, even women (we do ask first of course).

At work we are cycling into our annual performance review and work planning period. Back in Boston I hated this time because the process was designed by accountants. But here I am part of senior leadership and thus have some say over the process. We use it as a time of reflection and capacity building in house, a use of time I find useful and productive.

While I was at work Axel went with driver Fazle on his day off to deliver the cleats and shin guards and jerseys to the womens’ soccer team, practicing in the far northwest corner of Kabul. This to make sure that the girls had first dibs on the goodies. I asked Axel to take pictures to bring back as proof. He did.

Holy day

It was an unexpected day off for us because of the Prophet’s birthday tomorrow. It remains a mystery to me why days off are always a surprise in Moslem countries. I know it has something to do with the moon or the sun but if you were to trace holidays back you will find that they nearly always end up on the day that they are supposed to happen.

And why the celebration of the departure of the Russian came as a surprise on the 15th of February, the same day it has been celebrated for the last 21 years, is even more of a surprise.

For government workers things were less clear. Some were told it was a day off while others were told to report for work; our two colleagues who work in the ministry went to work, at least for the usual half day on Thursday.

I spent the morning taking care of things that had been left unattended for some days because of non-stop meetings. I managed to take 100 emails out of my inbox but a good chunk of that work was undone during the second part of the day after I closed the computer as I realized when I opened it up again. Those darn listserves!

Julie and I went for a Thai massage. We opted for the (baby) oil massage as opposed to the Thai massage which is a little more intense. Luckily I had warned her about the masseuse climbing on the table and using her arms and legs to add some stretches here and there to make the whole experience slightly more intense than a plain old massage. This is how Axel believes his ribs got cracked and he has never gone back since.

I had hoped to make a side trip to the bazaar but either it is not allowed anymore or the driver and guard didn’t want to go. We did make a side stop at the supermarket to get the coconut milk for our evening dinner (green curry).

For the evening we had hatched an escape plan for friends who are stuck in the US embassy compound so that they could be away for an evening from colleagues who are working 18 hours a day. It is also a reminder for all these campers of what regular home life is like, with good music, good company and of course good food. It nearly felt normal to be living here, as if we were with friends back home in the US.

Virtual no more

Yesterday Courtney walked into our life, or rather he was driven by Afghan Logistics driver number 16, with some rudimentary navigational help from our youngest guard Fazel.

We met for the first time over dinner, after his wife Elaine introduced us via facebook and long distance. I have never met Elaine either but we are now facebook friends since she discovered my blog and we started chatting via facebook.

Elaine will come to Kabul in June and so for now we are getting to know her via her husband whenever he is in town, which is rather irregular. He is a pilot with Safi Airways and hops all over the country and the region: Herat, Kandahar, Mazar, Kuwait, Dubai and soon Doha.

Courtney explained to us he is a farm boy from North Dakota. I would add to that ‘an adventuresome farm boy.’ After he was retired by US Airways he chose to fly for an airline company that most Americans have never heard of and be based in a city (Kabul) that is associated with bombs and other mayhem.

For us Safi Airways is our connection to the rest of the world, to home and to vacation. It is our flight out of Kabul to Dubai. Maybe on our next flight to Dubai, when we head to Beirut on March 11, he might be our captain.

We had a wonderful dinner together, Qabuli pilau expertly prepared by cook Amin and an improved version of the apple pie. The leftovers went home with Courtney, to his hotel room. I guess they don’t serve home made apple pie at the Safi Hotel.

We looked at each others’ pictures, of Kabul, the Hindukush from high up, the Kabul Golf Course, Lobster Cove and all our children. When the evening was over it felt as if we had known each other for years.

One of the pictures taken last summer, of Elaine licking ice cream in a pedal boat on lake Qarghi, some 15 miles out of Kabul, prompted me to arrange for a car tomorrow to go for a visit to the lake and have lunch there.

But then, in short order, Steve returned home not feeling well and Axel called in sick also. No point in planning an outing with two of the bunch indisposed. I gave up the tourist plan for tomorrow and rushed home to care for the patient. We will go next week when our new housemate Julie is here and the men will hopefully be better.

Wine and fish

With hundreds of other Dutch men and women we visited the Macro in Hengelo, a hangar of a building holding wares at wholesale prices. It was as if everyone had been holding their breath on that forced day of leisure and closed shops on January 1 and now let loose.

We wouldn’t have gone if it wasn’t for our mission: to buy a 220 volt sewing machine and coffee grinder, which we did. Back home in Borne we weighed everything to make sure we stuck to the maximum weight allowed by KLM and hauled our suitcases back into our car.

Led by our Tom-Tom, rented for an extra 6 euro a day from the Budget rent-A-Car company, with the voice of Jane from England (Axel could not understand Eva from Holland) we drove to the largest national park in Holland in the midst of which is one of the finest collections of van Goghs at the Modern Art Kroeller-Mueller museum.

Miss Mueller, the daughter of a the owner of a successful German shipping company, married the brother of the agent of the Dutch branch in 1889 just when Van Gogh was producing one masterwork-to-be after another. About 20 years later she realized he was a genius and started buying his works, first for a handful of guilders, than hundreds of guilders and by the time he started to get famous she had a good collection. Not just of his stuff but many of his contemporaries. Her husband had made enough of a fortune to support her habit. All of this started with her taking a course in Art Appreciation as a young bride at the turn of the previous century.

We drove through what the Dutch consider a snowstorm (a light dusting of snowflakes) to Utrecht to join a very select group of people with whom I had, 35 years ago, organized a big event in Leiden that included a fickle and pot-smoking Georges Moustaki and a series of activities (outdoors, theatrical, serious and reflective) and a considerable budgets pried loose from wealthy alumns who had become industry captains in Holland.

Axel had heard me talk about this group which was the first mixed group in the history of the student association, with Theta and myself the women pioneers, to organize such an event. Come to think of it, Afghanistan is only a little behind.

Theta now lives in an enormous house right in the center of Utrecht that belonged once to a mayor of this city. Her husband Ton escaped on the bicycle before the guys arrived but Axel was allowed to stay. We walked across the square to a lovely seafood restaurant and splurged on great seafood and wine, something we will think about often in a few days. Wine and fishes, it has something of a religious feell to it!

And now on to our last full day in Holland, another reunion with all the folks who were in Senegal when we lived there from 1979-1981. Many of them were at our wedding, 30 years ago. This is the only group in Holland that has never associated my name with any other man than Axel, no history before that.


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