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Entanglements

I recently finished a book about particle entanglements (The Age of Entanglements by Louisa Gilder). I didn’t understand anything about the physics part, but I loved reading about the lives of these young scientists in pre-war Germany and their amazing intellect. I am always drawn to the articles about particle mechanics and particle dynamics in our weekly New Scientist, even though I don’t understand next to nothing about the topic. I am intrigued by Schrödinger’s cat (dead and alive at the same time) and the idea of multiple universes.  I also love novels about metaverses (the Midnight Library by Matt Haig and Murakami’s Kafka on the Shore).  It’s just that the entanglements and multiple realities resonate with me because I am living in a time of undeniable entanglements and multiple realities (cultures, perspectives). That is, I believe, the draw.

The most problematic entanglements that I experience at this moment are with the companies that order and organize my life. There is Amazon. Axel and I are paying Mr. Bezos an annual fee to be part of his clever ‘Prime’ scheme. It is seductive because we get to read each other’s books and listen to each other’s audiobooks. Not that we do that a lot – we have very different tastes – but it nice to know that we can.

Our two daughters have always disapproved of us trusting an Amazon AI device (Alexa) that let us turn things on and off with a simple voice command (“Alexa, good night). They say our trust in AI from large companies (Amazon, Facebook, Google) is misplaced. And they are probably right. 

But how to disentangle ourselves without moving off the grid? Our libraries, work documents and communication channels are all controlled by these three companies. 

I got a taste of our entanglement with Amazon yesterday.  I decided back in July that there was no point in paying two Prime memberships and canceled mine which ended yesterday. Alexa promptly stopped following our commands. Instead, she proposed an action that we didn’t ask for. It may not be a very serious consequence (which our daughters will probably rejoice in) but who knows what is to follow?

A couple we are doing a home exchange with refused to connect on WhatsApp (“it’s evil”). I had already canceled all my social media over a year ago (no sense of loss there), however WhatsApp, owned by Facebook, is an important communication tool to stay in touch with friends and coaching clients faraway. It serves as a backup when my client’s electricity goes out in the middle of a coaching conversation. I know there are alternatives like Signal, but it will take a lot of effort to convince my network to switch (it may not even be available to them). And what if it that still idealistic company gets absorbed by another evil company?

Many of these companies start out with a lofty mission statement about making the world a better place through technology. But then they get rich, and greed takes over. The ramp goes up, and if it ever goes down, lots of people are dragged down because they got, well, tangled up in the mess.

We will find out in the next couple of days what other fallout there is from my attempt to disentangle, from Amazon, which is only partial because it still stores my books and sells stuff I want, and Axel still has his Prime membership. 

I can’t even begin to think about my entanglement with Google because it is massive and scary. There are more entanglements with smaller companies who have my username and passwords (some used and re-used at other sites). From time to time, I get a warning that they are invaded by dark forces – many of those sites I don’t even use anymore, but I am still entangled with them. Cleaning that mess up will take time I would like to spend otherwise.

On the positive side, I am entangled with my family and friends, many of which have come to support our Afghan adopted daughter and shower her with gifts.

A new daughter

S. has arrived in the US after languishing for 13 months in a center in Abu Dhabi. When the Taliban stormed Kabul, and with that took control of Afghanistan, S. was one of hundreds of thousands who desperately wanted to get out. Attempts to be evacuated by the Dutch military with her older sister, who carries a Dutch passport and happened to be in Kabul at that time, failed twice for both. The third attempt got her sister back to Holland, but S. was not able to make it through a sewage ditch into the airport and went home. I heard all that from her sister. Left to her own devices after that she jumped on the first opportunity to get out and landed in Au Dhabi. Little did she know how long she would stay there. Her brother also got out and went straight to the US and lived at a military based for months. These three siblings that we had gotten to know when we lived in Kabul, had rolled out over the earth like drops of mercury.

We had indicated early on that we would sponsor S. to come to the US. It was an opaque process that was never clarified despite emails, letters and phone calls to US officials in Abu Dhabi. I learned quickly that the center’s adjective (‘humanitarian’) was misplaced. It was more of a detention center. There were those inside and those outside, but no chance to mingle. We stayed in touch via WhatsApp and Botim (Abu Dhabi doesn’t allow phone calls via WhatsApp). I was able to get two friends in Dubai to drop off things she needed. Other than that, there was nothing I could do to get her out. I had even imagined flying there but I would not have been allowed in. 

The horizon of hope (to get out of there) moved from month to month. The first 2 months in that place seemed like an eternity, then 3 months more, then half a year. Finally, after 13 months, without much notice, she was put on a plane to NYC and from there to DC. She lost her iPad, because it had run out of juice during the long trip and nobody told her that electronic devices that cannot be turned on are confiscated. Welcome to the US! I assume she was welcomed by IRC who has taken her under its care (up your annual donation to them!). She was assigned an overworked caseworker, an Afghan woman, received a Smart card and some money ($300), and dropped off at her brother’s apartment in Silver Spring. His resettlement had gone so much faster than hers. All of this was a big surprise to me. Nothing for 13 months and then suddenly, she’s here. 

She is getting her footing in the US. My network has mobilized many more networks and the universe is raining gifts on her: free career counseling and job search advice from a dear friend, a good as new computer from our neighbor. Another friend took her to the library to get a card and an explanation of DC metro’s public transport system. Not that it makes the stress go away of solving major problems like housing and getting an income, but knowing that there are many good people helps in this bewildering experience of America. It is hard to imagine her journey since mid August 2021. I think of Mr. Rogers famous quote, “look for the helpers.’ They re everywhere!

I am not taking the place of her mother, but we have adopted each other as another mother-daughter pair. She sent me a picture of herself, radiant in a local gym that is run by the municipality and that allows her to get out of the cramped apartment (3 adults and 3 children in 2 rooms). Today she attends a workshop on finding a job. I admire her mettle.

End of an era

Today, as I was looking through the pictures on my computer, I ended up deleting hundreds of them. They were pictures of workshops from around the world. In most cases I remembered the places and some of the people and I wonder what difference these events made. The energy of people engaging with each other about their work is visible in many pictures. The intensity of the conversations, the aha’s..but I know such energy can be fleeting. People leave a workshop on a high, and then something about their work environment sucks it all out. Not everywhere of course. I have come to realize that it all comes down to leadership and the behavior of the leaders. If they believe in, what USAID calls CLA (collaborating, learning and adapting), then the energy will stay, because people can talk about what doesn’t work for them, or share their ideas and spark off creative conversations. But if the leaders don’t really believe in this approach to working together, because they have a need to control things (and people) or are attached to a particular way of working that suits them and their personality (but not others), or when there is a fear of what will happen if they let go of control, then I am pretty sure that collaborative spirit will eventually lose its power.

Deleting those pictures was very liberating. It is the end of an era and opens a new chapter. It is the end of my life’s chapter as a trainer, facilitator, and workshop leader. I have good memories of all these events and count myself very lucky I got to travel the world. But that chapter is now closed, I am done with that. It feels great. My next chapter will keep me professionally engaged through individual and team coaching, leaving me lots of time to engage in local political action (to reduce my fear and sense of helplessness about the November elections), my various hobbies and maybe travel a bit more to my home country now that COVID-19 has finally found me. I won that fight thanks to an immune system that will protect me for the next few months.

Dozens of cousins

We spent a week in the Loire Valley, between Nantes and Angers. We stayed in stately old chateau (it is available on Airbnb, here), the ancestral home of a dear friend who invited us and some others to accompany him and his wife to the chateau. We learned about the interesting bi-continental family that started when a French artist married his American wife. Their offspring settled either in France or in the US and some in both places. As a result, there are now dozens of cousins who speak English, French, or both. 

Chateau Le Pin, Champtocé sure Loire

We were settled in the ‘red room’ with its 14 feet ceiling and large windows looking out on the spectacular grounds on one side and on another wing on the other. The windows have three positions: closed, wide open or half open with some ingenuous hardware that keeps them in that half open position. There are no screens which means we had to share our living quarters with flies during the day (especially in the kitchen), big noisy flying creatures at night that were attracted by our lights, and occasionally bats.

I learned that bats are an integral part of the biodiversity that creates the world’s most famous grapes. They don’t only eat mosquitoes (of which there were few, may be because of them) but also the grape worm and other pests that would affect the harvest. Once you know that, all thoughts of tennis rackets or baseball bats (so often used in the US to get rid of these creatures) evaporate. It is about co-existence. And the flies in the kitchen? You get used to that. I grew up in a house without screens and was used to wasps and bees and flies freely flying in and out of the house. Now, in the US, if we spot one fly in the house, we go after it with a vengeance. It’s all about context!

Of course, we drunk much wine, which was produced by the vineyards belonging to the chateau or to other chateaux. We did not visit a vineyard and now I wished I had because our fellow travelers did. They brought back interesting literature about wine making and biodiversity.

Since the internet had been knocked out by a storm before we arrived, we never had access to the whole wide world. I had not bought a French sim card. I had bought an E-Simcard in the US that I never got to work (which is a whole other story). I turned my phone off for the entire week. At first it was a little strange to not be able to look something up, send pictures and messages, but I soon got used to it, and liked it. Of course, I knew that the next week I would be fully connected again, and had a husband who was connected.

The cooking responsibilities were fluid and easy. We bought fabulous food at an outdoor market where we could have easily stayed a whole day and buy three times as we could possibly eat in a week. The cheeses, the sausages, the seafood (mussels, live langoustines – related to crawdaddies), and vegetables were all very tempting. In our little group we had people who loved to cook and improvise (using the refrigerator remains from the previous group that had stayed there – we called this soupe-frigo), and we had people who liked to clean up. It was all very easy and amicable which is not to be taken for granted when you live with people you have never lived with and even some we didn’t know before we got there.

We had access to enormous variety of produce from the chateau’s ‘potager.’ A large patch of land that was leased to a professional grower who serves restaurants nearby, and us if we so desired. It was enclosed by a 2-meter-high stone wall to keep the wildlife out.  We learned that everything was grown organically and in alignment with the phases of the moon and the mood of the universe. 

The chateau has an ‘Orangerie,’ where the countless citrus trees overwinter. In the summer they are outside. They were heavy with fruit:  oranges, lemons, kumquats, limes, and all sorts of other citrus varieties I don’t know the name of. While these trees are outside, the inside is taken over by one of the cousins who is an artist and holds workshops there. We had full access to the space. Axel produced a lovely woodcut of a water lily, one of the many flowering plants around us. The sights and views inspired me to create a treasure hunt in rhyme. It was a place that instantly released our creative juices.

More better

When my in-laws lived here (from the early 50s until my mother-in-law died in 1993) the house they lived in remained essentially the same. They moved from one side of the house to the other and made only one change, removing a wall to make their TV room bigger. That was all, in all these years.

I remember when we visited them, before 1993, this was a quiet neighborhood with only the sound of the foghorn, waves, and seagulls. We experienced this kind of quiet in Finland. Coming back was a rude awakening. For one, we have a construction project in our backyard. It already made for one noisy summer last year when the foundation and framing was done and continues to do so now. Masons cladded the chimney with fieldstones that had to be lifted onto scaffolding using a squeaky flywheel and cut noisily with a stone cutter, from early morning till the end of the afternoon. This lasted for weeks. And now that this is done people across the cove are building a new house in and on the rocks which has required blasting and now produces loud noises from big trucks that are being loaded with rock debris. And when the construction noises calm down there are the landscapers with their noisy and polluting gas-powered landscaping equipment, mowers, blowers, and trimmers. It is never quiet anymore.

This morning when I walked around the small peninsula where we live, I counted 7 construction sites and 12 houses that weren’t there, or didn’t look at all as they do now, when my in-laws lived here. I sometimes wished I could take my long-gone in-laws for a walk around the neighborhood and watch their expressions. 

I know what has changed. When Axel grew up here, most houses were summer houses and at that time, summer houses were for the summer, not requiring the same creature comforts as their rest-of-the-year homes. People who lived here all year round like my husband’s parents, weren’t wealthy. Now our neighborhood is populated all year round; properties are snatched up by people with much wealth who either pull down the old houses or renovate, leaving only the bare house frames intact.  For years now there hasn’t been a summer without some construction project nearby. On the day Axel’s mother died we got phone calls from real estate developers asking whether we were going to sell. We now have several real estate companies in town and construction companies, all running booming businesses, creating more wealth and more wishes for more and better.

Everyone seems to be bitten by the bug that whispers in our ears (“not good enough”) – even we are bitten by that same bug. All the advertisers and happiness gurus are telling us that we could be happier, if only we lose some weight, buy this or that, get new clothes, renovate our kitchen or bathroom, or meditate every morning.  I did the latter for 2 years and have stopped doing so. It didn’t make me happier or calmer.

Knowing that most people in the world are sleeping in hot and buggy places, without screens on the windows or air-conditioning, and millions don’t even have a home, I wonder how we could ever be dissatisfied with the beauty and abundance around us. If only we could be satisfied with what we have, rather than indulge in dreams about more and better.

Summer frolics

Hours after we arrived back home from Finland, we found two carloads of people in our driveway. A friend had left messages on our phones while we were in the air to ask if she could come by with her family and guests to swim and play in Lobster Cove. And then our grandkids arrived and moved in for a week that included a camp in the area for our granddaughter and much down time for our grandson filled with Lego building and, when no one paid attention, screen time.

I was back to work with a rather hectic schedule that included much screen time as well but provided some income to pay off our Finland credit card debt.

The rest of July passed quickly, as summertime tends to do. July is a birthday month for three of our family members who all reached a birthday with a 7 in it: Tessa turned 37 on July 2nd, Saffi turned 7 on July 25th and Axel turned 76 on July 30th. So, it was party time!

On July 30 we celebrated all 3 birthdays with a Lobster Cove beach party which was made even more riotous than it would have been any other year. Tessa’s gift to Saffi was an enormous blow-up unicorn (which took some ingenuity and time to blow up) that can sit 6 adults comfortably (including 4 cupholders and space for a cooler) and many more kids. Once it was blown up the kids played in it on dry land for a while before it was transported on the heads of two adults into lobster Cove where it remained the rest of the afternoon to entertain kids and adults alike.  Having a unicorn like that in our backyard inspired me to write a story (that has no ending yet) about Saffi and her unicorn. I hope it can attract an illustrator and ideas for adventures (here) – a crowdsourced book if you will.

At some point a police officer arrived to inquire who was partying since someone had called the police to complain. We told him we lived here, and he apologized. We wondered who the anonymous caller was. We think it may have been a neighbor across the Cove who treats part of the beach below her house as private property and had noticed some people had installed themselves for the day. It’s an attitude that galls me – this concept of ‘mine’ when a beach should be for everyone to enjoy, especially when the temperature rises above 90 degrees (F). The legal rights of coastal property owners are unclear and open to some interpretations – lawyers seem to be the only ones who always benefit from this ambiguity.

We only deal with this issue when dogs come running into our yard, sometimes crap there, lick out pans used for outdoor cooking, or lick me while snoozing in a hammock. These dogs are poorly trained and do not listen to their owners’ calls. I have no patience with dog owners who cannot control their dogs. They come to our beach because the main Manchester beach (Singing Beach) is closed to dogs between May and October. If the dogs stay on the beach and their owners pick up their poop, I am fine with dogs and people alike enjoying Lobster Cove. 

Helsinki short

On Friday we left early after having left the house as spic&span as when we found it. We drove the 200 km back to Helsinki airport and left the car, as agreed upon, at a Park&Fly parking lot. A shuttle dropped us off at the railway station next to the airport so we could take the commuter train into the city. 

The railway station was just as inscrutable as the language. There was an elevator and an escalator that took us into a deep underground cave with very few signs on where to go next. Our phone GPS was not working well that deep underground, so we followed a pathway that did indeed take us to a platform. A train to Helsinki pulled up just as we arrived. We had no time to figure out the ticketing arrangement and hopped on the train hoping we could play the dumb tourist and pay a conductor. He (or she) never showed up and we had an unintentional free ride. As if to punish us for that transgression, Axel left his phone on his seat, which we only discovered 15 minutes after we alighted from the train. Panic!

We were already standing in line at the lost-and-found department, with very little hope of ever finding the phone, when we decided to call his phone in a last effort to find it. Lo and behold someone answered and responded to me in perfect English, a wonder all by itself. It was the cleaning lady who had found it and told me to come back to platform 1 and not to hurry. I put a 5-euro bill in her hand which she refused, but I insisted anyways and thanked her for being so honest. An iPhone is a tempting find. We were lucky she found it and not someone else who wanted an iPhone, even an old model.

A Nigerian taxi driver delivered us to a hotel that was only 15 minutes away by foot but he made it appear to be a long distance and charged accordingly. At first, we trusted him and then we didn’t when he offered to take us to the airport the next morning for nearly twice the advertised charge.

Helsinki was, in some ways, a disappointment. The weather was so-so, including some rain, the city was full of tourists, masses of people surrounding us, something we are not used to. For our first dinner we took a ferry to a restaurant on an island with fortifications and barracks to fend off attacks from the Russians or Swedes or both. On our way back I had another licorice ice cream knowing that my opportunities for such a treat were soon to disappear.

We visited some of the sites recommended by my Finnish colleague, including the wonderful Design Museum which showed the many iconic Finnish designs that are so familiar such as the three-legged Alvar Aalto bent-wood stool that you can buy as an original (250 USD) or as a China-made copy (12 USD), the orange Fiskars scissors, Marimekko, Iitala glass and Arabia ceramics.  We visited the underground Rock Church and ended with a last meal that included salmon and shrimp.

The next morning, we tested ourselves to make sure we went home COVID free.  As we left the hotel at 4:30AM to catch our 7 AM flight to Amsterdam we practically tripped over some very drunk people on the sidewalk who had not known how to stop partying. It was a sad last image we held of Finland.

Art in many ways

Everyday, when deciding not to explore the country side, we drive into Turku with the intent to visit the large Turku Art Museum. And each time we get distracted by other things and end up not visiting the museum. In the morning we opted for a long walk along the river. Halfway through we found a lovely café and in Finland it is always time for coffee. The weather is cooler now, which is fine with us. There is dew on the fields as the nights (already) seem to get cooler. A strong wind was blowing enormous cloud masses overhead, in the direction of Russia.

We took a tiny ferry across the Aura river and started walking back towards the center of town on the other side, debating where we would stop for lunch and possibly dinner.The first distraction was the café at the Waino Aaltonen Museum where open faced salmon and egg sandwiches and the traditional savory pastry from Karelia seduced us us to sit down and abandon our search for a lunch place. Bonus, a wonderful exhibit by Antti Laitinen.

Afterwards we continued in the direction of the Art Museum and checked out some dinner places – we do seem to go from meal to meal here. With some options in mind we crossed back to the other side of the river and made our way to the central market place where the farmers were closing their stalls, offering their leftover wares at discounted prices. We dropped the idea of eating out and bought the last liters of peas (things are sold here by the liter) from a gentleman with raven black hair (unusual here) and blue eyes (not unusual here). In Holland when you see this combination of hair and eye color people always refer back to the Spanish Armada that was defeated in 1588 and the survivors that made it back to land. Did some make their way to Finland?

We bought strawberries that we cannot get enough of and Axel added some blueberries (thinking of Sal and her summer in Maine) but these were no local blueberries, having been shipped all the way from Portugal as the small letters on the sign said. They are not even close to the ones he had in mind (soft, large and tasteless, definitely not wild).

Next to the market place is a large shopping mall, not so visible from the outside but occupying several city blocks, including floors underground. Like malls in Toronto, it makes sense to bring the shopping indoors in a climate that has long and cold winters.

Axel the textile artist, wanted to see the Marimekko store and look at its unusual and colorful printed fabrics. We had noticed that people don’t dress in colorful ways here. We asked the woman in charge of the (very colorful) fabric department why people dressed in such muted colors. Her answer: “We Finns are shy and don’t like to stand out. But once you go inside their house you see many colors.” She told us the history of Marimekko and showed how the names of the designers and the year of the design are all printed on the fabric’s edges. They still carry the iconic daisy design that put Marimekko on the map in the 70s. A whole generation of new designers continues to put out new designs. If you have deep pockets you can mix and match fabrics with dinnerware that tells a story about yearning for the outdoors and green spaces and growing things.

Axel kept eyeing a particular bolt with the brightest colors that, according to the saleslady, was about summer fruit. We bought the last meters from the bolt and I offered it to Axel as his birthday present.

This took care of the money allotted to dinner out and we descended to the supermarket where we bought hamburger and licorice ice-cream and then headed home, a 18 km drive that we can now do easily without GPS.

Back, inspired by the art we did see, Axel drew one of the many pine trees by our house.

Pine tree with mosquitoes

Coffee, hockey and orange shears

It was only a week ago that we arrived in Finland. It seems eons ago. We have explored Turku, did the archipelago trail, ate salmon, peas, baby potatoes and strawberries every day, and drank liters of coffee. tried out the local gin from Nagu island as we sat on the balcony of our home, on a warm night with our We enjoyed gin tonics, overlooking a large field of some very green grain (barley? Rye?). We also learned a few Finnish words thanks to Google’s translation app that you can even point at the inscrutable long words on a label or sign post (like to find out if we can park legally).

We learned a bit about the Baltic Sea trade centuries ago and watched the Fins, of any age, enjoy their very short summer. We encountered only a few bugs (and all those in one single place), experienced a heat wave (Lapland’s temperatures were 20 degrees (F) above the usual 66 degrees at this time of the year) and we had nonstop blue skies and temperatures in the upper 70s/lower 80s. Warmer and bug freer than we had expected.

We had some idea that we would be doing a walking tour of the city but it was hot and Axel’s back is hurting, and we spent an hour at a hypermarket to find replacements for the Nespresso coffee we used up (and then of course had a cup of coffee). By the time we were done it was lunch time and we found the perfect place overlooking the river Aura and watching the Sunday boat traffic go by while munching on fried baby potatoes, and a particular kind of Finnish rye bread that accompanied our trout salad and steak tartare. By the time we were done with that the afternoon was halfway done – how time flies when you are having a good time. We strolled down river, watched a street hockey tournament in a blow-up arena, had licorice ice cream and decided it was too hot for the city and headed for a beach where we watched more Fins enjoy the cool waters in between the Gulf of Bothnia and the Baltic Sea.

Back home we had yet another salmon and potato meal. On Monday we visited Fiskars (yes, of the iconic orange shears). We had coffee (of course) at a lovely place by the small brook that transects the town and learned that the owner is from North Carolina, lived in Saint Petersburg, somewhere along the way met his French wife and, when the pandemic started, escaped the city and settled in Fiskars. We had intended to visit the museum that showed the origins of the orange shears (ploughs), but we got sidetracked by a wonderful set of art exhibits that included the results of a competition to make a small house no bigger than 30 square meters (some were even smaller). It said you could spend the night in one of them but we didn’t bother to find out how that worked.

We had another fabulous lunch, visited the shops with their very Scandinavian designs, resisted the urge the buy stuff, and then drove through endless deep woods over backroads to Hanko. This is the place from where many Finns emigrated to the US. Hanko, like all of Finland, has a very twisted history when it comes to its relationships with Sweden and Russia. Apparently the Crimean war played a role but we could not figure out how. The place is known for its large villas that were built by wealthy Russian industrialists, not quite as massive as the cottages in Newport but grandiose Victorian wooden buildings nevertheless. At some point the Fins were driven out of the place and a garrison with 30,000 Russian troops moved in and left the town in shambles after they, in their turn, left.

The drive home was long, two hours, and we realized we should have arranged lodgings in one of these towns before going to Helsinki on Friday (a 200 km ride). Once again we found the roads empty and we could drive at the maximum speed all the time. We had been warned by our hosts that there are cameras everywhere that catch you when you go over the speed limit. Conveniently, big signs with a picture of a camera warn you (and Waze also tells you where they are). We stick to the allowable speed limits religiously (more so than we do at home). Driving west and northwest we had to deal with a very bright sun blinding us all the way home at the late hour of 10:30PM.

A stroll back in time

Turku hosts an annual medieval festival with 100s of people in period costume enacting various activities that presumably took place when Turku was an active trade port on the Baltic Sea. It was yet again a very hot day and I felt sorry for the actors in their outfits that looked a better fit for lower temperatures. Yet they were all very good natured and patiently explaining to people what they were doing. After seeing very few people during our first week in Finland we suddenly found ourselves in the midst of 180 thousand people who had all flocked to this highly anticipated annual event.

We have been eating seafood pretty much all the time, but when Axel saw the wild boar (or was it a pig?) on a spit, he couldn’t resist. The meat was served on a birchwood shingle. I continued with fish and got a birchwood plate with tiny small fry with garlic sauce. While we were eating the bishop came by (he looked very much like Sinterklaas) and the costumed people ran towards him and fell to their knees to receive his blessings.

We tried juniper and birch beer (no alcohol) and then the real artisanal beer that was brewed in a trough filled with hay, juniper branches and other naturals that worked as a filter. Because real beer was served the area was enclosed and a guard make sure no one escaped before their paper cup with beer was emptied. Some of the costumed people drank their beer from wooden tankards or horns.

All around the central square professional actors and volunteers in their period costumes demonstrated various artisanal occupations. There was a place for the children with traditional kids games and then there were the usual craft booths selling the kinds of things one sees at any craft fair in the US: woodcraft, leathers, jewelry, textiles, etc. The only thing we would probably not find at a fair back home would be the Minsk convent booth with its ornate carved boxes and combs. That’s when you realize that we are very far east.

After a bad night in our hot hut on the island the night before, the slow stroll along the booths-filled streets of Turku, and a quick tour through the museum with its remains of the old medieval town of Turku, had exhausted me. We plopped down at the banks of the Aura river at the Art café for a restorative cuppa.

For dinner Axel made open faced salmon sandwiches on a particular kind on the ubiquitous rye bread that a Finnish colleague of mine had recommended. For dessert I had made a rhubarb-strawberry compote. For the first time in days I collapsed while the sun was still fairly high on its downward arc (8:30PM). This meant that I woke up with the sun at 4 AM.

We are at the halfway point of our trip to Finland.


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