Archive Page 112

Striking along

The strike got nasty last night and cars and buses were set on fire, people died. These things happen here. This is the reason people don’t want to drive after dark. And this is the reason why my date with Sayeed was also canceled this evening. He tried to leave his house to pick me up but he returned when it was clear that the demonstrators had not stopped creating mayhem. The strike was extended by a day.

The consequence of another day of strike is that our two day workshop has now been reduced to one day, Tuesday. Whether we will even be able to have that one day remains to be seen. I hear a lot of incha’llah talk about the end of the strike. There is much at stake with the opposition’s threats that the hartal last until their kidnapped leader is returned. But some people fear that he cannot be returned because he may already be dead.

Not knowing quite how to behave under hartal circumstances, and with the restrictions of movement in Kabul still freshly imprinted, I was happy when my friend Fatima offered to come and get me for an escape from the hotel to have lunch at Nando’s. She came in a bicycle rickshaw and then negotiated in a mix of Urdu and Bangla our trip to the first circle in Gulshan where one has to transit to another rickshaw as the territories are clearly delineated. The presence of a foreigner by her side put her in a poor bargaining position – a difference of 80 cents.

We had lunch at Nando’s where I opted for a ‘mildly’ spiced meal, fearing that spicy would be unbearable in this place where most food is very spicy (mild was just right).  Over lunch I learned that Fatima hails from Hunza, of Three Cups of Tea fame, up in the northwestern corner of Pakistan, the place so eloquently described in Kathleen Jamie’s book ‘Among Moslems.’

She told me what it was like to be a midwife there, something she did for many years. I got a glimpse of the stress she endured of not having people die on you lest the health center’s (and one’s own) reputation be damaged; a heavy load to carry by a young midwife in a place where people usually don’t come to the health center after they have tried everything else. Death is usually around the corner at that late stage.

Now she is studying at BRAC University’s school of public health. She confided in me her struggle on  how to connect a difficult bio-statistics course with her practitioner’s experience of public health. The school used to be good at making that connection for the students.

Back at the hotel I had a vegetarian thali while watching a TV channel that seems to show only one movie, over and over again (The Bridges of Madison County). No matter where you start in the movie, eventually you get to see the whole thing.

Forced stop

The BNP, opposition party, last Friday, threatened a non-stop shutdown, here known as a ‘hartal’ if the government failed to produce its kidnapped leader Elias Ali alive. The hartal started already and forced us to start the workshop a day later. This will only work if the strike is called off tomorrow at the end of the day. If not, we have to scramble, along with lots of other people in Bangladesh who made plans.

I had forgotten about these hartals that are so common and yet catch everyone by surprise. Here too, like in all the countries I have worked in, politicians are the great spoilers and there is great disdain and dislike for them. Yet they can’t all be bad. Bangladesh has made some great strides in raising literacy rates, increasing family planning and reducing the growth rate of its population.  But with so many people it will take awhile before that reduces actual numbers. A hug bulge of too many babies born over the last 40 years has to work itself through the life cycle.

And so tomorrow we are told to lie low. Not the kind of low as in Afghanistan, in fact I was told that being a foreigner does not put me at risk. But I am not sure what it means for me, this extra day of waiting.

Today I met the rest of the facilitation team, one batch in the morning and another in the afternoon. In the morning I met my MSH colleagues at the local office and in the afternoon only those local to the area could show up. Crossing town after 5 PM was not advised because demonstrators can get nasty to cars driving around. People are warned to get home before 5 and then stay put. And so we won’t have everyone in the same room until the workshop starts – assuming it will – the day after tomorrow.

The list of invitees is long, over 90 people, but no one expects all these people to show up. Only 22 replied positively. What started as a workshop for 20 to 30 people is now anyone’s guess.

In the meantime I learned that my trip to Kenya, replacing the cancelled trip to Afghanistan, is now also cancelled which means my travels will stop a little earlier than expected. As with so many other things, whether this is a good thing or a bad things is hard to tell at the moment. The focus of the work was right up my alley so I am a bit disappointed, but then again if the grandbaby comes early it would be a good thing.

From there to here

The trip to Bangladesh has three segments, each one a little shorter than the previous one if you travel East, the opposite if you travel West, with each segment a little longer than the previous one and also longer because of flying into the trade winds.

Segment one and two were orderly, as one would expect. But segment three was very disorderly although the Emirates people did their best and kept their cool.  There are lots of young Bangla men working in the Emirates and there is a constant shuttling back and forth as these young men go home or try their luck. I suppose those are the lucky ones, the ones who are not bonded slaves.

After reading (Gregory David Roberts’) Shantaram I was looking for the gold that was/used to be smuggled out of the Emirates as jewelry around arms and necks but I saw little of that. In fact the Bangla customs form allows very little jewelry to go untaxed. The authorities may have wizened up after reading the book, after learning about the inner workings of the Bombay mafia and its grip on the black markets of the subcontinent.

For the final push into Bangladesh it was my luck to sit at an exit row where I could stretch my legs with an empty middle seat; it was my bad luck that that seat was across the aisle from a tired young couple with an infant that didn’t want to sleep in the bassinette and cried when not wiggled on his dad’s knee. Still, I managed to sleep most of the way – exhaustion and earplugs helped.

I woke up when we were getting ready to land only to learn that a VIP had sequestered the airport for the next hour. When you have been on the road that long such an extra hour kills. And so we circled over Dhaka until the airport opened again. Then followed another long hour standing in chaotic and ever-shifting lines of exhausted, numb, irritable but also happy travelers to get ourselves stamped into the country. I was waiting in line with a Bangla grocer from Lynn, MA, who had come by way of Newark to Dubai and was just as exhausted but in a fine mood. He was going to visit the few remaining relatives who weren’t already living in Lynn, and the proud owner of the much coveted American passport.

It was Friday so traffic was light, which is a relative concept. Still, it shortened the 45 minute ride to the hotel to 20 minutes. That was a good thing.

I made contact with Courtney, formerly from Safi airlines who is now flying out his remaining days till retirement ferrying planes from Dhaka to the US or China for repairs or lease returns. He happened to be in the country and so we had a date, fully encouraged by our two home-based spouses. He took me to the Westin and treated me to a multi-cultural buffet dinner that would have been wasted on either one of us alone. We caught up on life and adventures that we had since we said goodbye at the Barbecue Tonight restaurant in Kabul, now 9 months ago.

On our way back, we threw ourselves into the throngs of beggar moms and street urchins that are attracted to the moneyed customers of the Westin. After having been chauffeured around in Afghanistan for two years, or driven myself around in South Africa, the experience of haggling for a taxi or the motorized rickshaws was new again. The smoke-spewing baby taxis of yesterday are now called CNGs (compressed natural gas), encased in a metal cage (to keep the riffraff out I presume) and running on clean energy. I am sure it makes a difference in the quality of the ride if not of Dhaka’s air. I remember driving in these things with my scarf wrapped around my mouth as a rudimentary airfilter.

Getting ready

I am sitting in front of a sprig of quince blossoms, a gift from someone with an oriental eye for beauty, and a small vase with tulips and bleeding hearts, a gift from another whose life is all about gardens. Outside the birds are wide awake, blending their chirps into an unscripted morning jubilation.

More and more asparagus are poking through the soil. We are watching them like hawks because the asparagus beetle has already announced itself and it can dash our hopes of an abundant harvest. A cup with soapy water stands in the corner, waiting for the ennemy.

I am done with the Ayurvedic cleanse. We are instructed to add more variety to our diets, like one does with a baby trying out new foods, slowly and one at a time. The consumption of animal protein caused a reaction right away and makes me wonder how badly I need that. Alcohol is off limits for another week.  Luckily I am going to the land of rice and dhal and no tradition of alcohol. Such a diet suits me fine.

Sita was sitting in the yard sunning herself and reading about childbirth when I came home from work. She asked about my first delivery. I realized I could remember very little – such is the thing with painful experiences: the mind stuffs these into spiderwebfilled corners, far from our RAM. And so I pulled out my diary, book number one of many which contained a letter written to a friend, a faded copy of a typed epistel – a blow by blow account. I read it aloud, translating from Dutch as I went along. It was not the beautiful experience it was supposed to be, but life changing nevertheless. I think Sita is realistic enough to know that labour is indeed hard work.

I started to pack last night – trying to fit everything in a small suitcase that can be carried on or checked. I will only be in Bangladesh for 5 days, the other 4 days are travel, both long and straight through. My weak right arm argues for checking, the fact that the suitcase has to be transferred in Amsterdam and then Dubai argues for carrying.

I dreamt last night that I couldn’t find my ticket – my mind is still a bit behind the times, thinking that without a paper ticket one cannot get on a plane. I finally went to the airport trying to find out from some eastern European ladies on high heels when the next flight to Dhaka was. They were standing behind a high counter that forced them to bend over to be able to address their customers. The one who was helping me fainted and so I never got the answer. I am pretty sure I was about to miss the direct flight from Manchester by the sea, or wherever the dream took place, to Dhaka.

Spring contrasts

Axel opted out of the spring cleanse when his old-time friend Chris arrived from Long Island– he couldn’t imagine not having a beer with him and besides, Abi, our cleansing coach, had written to all of us that we should be gentle on ourselves and so he was. Today he abandoned the whole thing in favor of baked ham, more beer, wine and what not. So he will cleanse another time. I decided to stick with it which wasn’t all that difficult. Two years Afghanistan makes it easy to forego a glass of wine or beer.

And while we were celebrating new beginnings and hope and love, Kabul was under attack, another one of those complex attacks with people blowing themselves and others up all over the city. We received emails from friends that they are in lockdown and OK.

We had Ted from SOLA and two of the Afghan students over – both taking some time off from studying – to come celebrate spring with us on this glorious spring day. And then one by one our dearest friends arrived bringing flowers, food and each other. Sita joined us, giving everyone a chance to see her in her very pregnant state.

We sat outside until the sun went down and then moved inside to sit by the fire, watching the second half of an Agatha Christie movie. We seem to be unable to make it through one whole movie in one evening anymore these days.

New beginnings

We are four days into our Ayurvedic spring cleaning and I am feeling great. Except for the lengthy morning preparations it has not been very difficult. I imagine that my cold and sinus congestion, which started on day two and left me feeling poorly and tired, was over in two days because of my clean living.

My trip to Afghanistan has been cancelled, and with that my chances of going back there reduced to close to zero, at least for the foreseeable future. Some people would think that this is cause for relief and joy but for me it is disappointing. I had looked forward to seeing friends and colleagues. I also had wanted to do a final distribution of clothing and packing up what I left behind. I was in the budget for four trips – hence the stuff I left behind. I had imagined travelling with carryon only.

Within hours of this cancellation a replacement trip offered itself, this time to Kenya for some HR work.  I said yes as long as I would be back a good 10 days before our grandson is expected to arrive. That could be arranged. And so, in the end my travel schedule has not changed, just one of the destinations.

And now we are getting ready for our annual spring ritual, our Greek Easter celebration, where we enjoy the company of our best friends against the backdrop of new green and flowering trees. We celebrate many things at this time of year: our 32 years of marriage, the lucky circumstance of our meeting (35 years ago) and new beginnings, especially the imminent arrival of Sita and Jim’s son.

Spring cleaning

Last night I accompanied Axel to a friend’s house for a cooking and information class about Ayurvedic self care. Our friend is the one who has been massaging our sore and traumatized limbs and bodies since July 2007. While we were away in Afghanistan she took classes in Ayurveda, an ancient approach to life and health.

And so last night we learned about the doshas, their elements and attributes: vata (air and ether), pitta (fire and water) and kapha (earth and water). It’s ancient, complicated and endlessly fascinating. Since Axel is in transition, weaning off all sorts of medicines, he had decided that this cleansing might be a good idea. Cleansing means removing foods from our diet – for awhile – that are not so good for us: alcohol, sugar, red meat, processed foods, dairy, shellfish and more and substituting them with foods and spices that are decidedly Indian: pulses, rice, vegetables, and all sorts of spices.

The staple food for the cleansing is a rice and lentils mixture that is cooked in ghee and enriched with spices and just about any vegetable you want. It is called kitchari. When I first looked up recipes I typed in ‘kedgeree’ and discovered that this is an English breakfast adaptation with fish, often with eggs, butter and whatever else was left over from the previous evening meal (this from before the days of refrigeration).

Curious about the history of that transformation I learned that not everyone believes that India informed the British kitchen: one source claims that the dish went from Scotland to India during the Raj time and then back to the UK.  Whatever way it went, the transformation remains mysterious.

An important aspect of the doshas is taste (sweet, bitter, sour, salty and astringent) and this informs the choice of spices and vegetables to add to the mixture. We were a little loose last night with the spices and produced a very yummy and spicy kitchari. As we sat down to eat the meal I realized that I was eating ‘shola,’ one of my favorite Afghan dishes. I had no idea our cooks, at work and at home, were offering us ayurvedic meals. Except for the oil and salt, used rather lavishly, our diet in Afghanistan is improving in our rear view mirror.

We have now successfully completed our first day of cleansing. Axel went cold turkey off beer and tea and me off chocolate. It’s only for a week so eventually we will be able to return to these eating habits. This is a relief as I just learned from a reputable medical journal that eating chocolate staves off stroke in older women.

Unorthodox easter

We will celebrate Greek Easter because we were too busy on regular Easter. Without kids at home who demand colored eggs, an Easter basket with lots of chocolate, new clothes (a bonnet), we did not set our own course and drifted along on what others had arranged: a community ecumenical sunrise service at the beach (6:29 AM) and breakfast with cousins in Gloucester.

We got up at 5:30 AM, normal, even late for me, but way too early for Axel. We walked to the beach – a breathtaking walk with so much birdsong – and got there just when the service started and all the programs had been distributed. This left us without the plan for the service (no problem) and without the words to the hymns (big problem) – this meant that we had to la-la-la our way through the service, until a nice lady next to us noticed how lost we were without the words and kindly handed us her program.

There were lots of Allelujas and Praise-the-Lords. One of the pastors/ministers had us shout ‘Christ has Risen’ as loud as we could so we would wake up the people still sleeping in town. Of course, if it reached anyone at all, it would only be the very rich people whose houses border the beach. I suspect they may all have been there, or still in their winter homes in faraway cities. We couldn’t shout that loud.

Axel’s cousin N had prepared a wonderful breakfast for family members and we joined in the conversation, a little bit of gossip here and there and much adult talk that visibly bored the younger generation. We have become our parents!

And then we got into the car and drove with thousands of other people slowly into Boston and out again (what was that all about?) on our way to IKEA. This time we had put on our hiking shoes and we had a very focused mission: a fold out bed for the guestroom. The bunk beds that we have forced our overnights guests to sleep in are no longer OK. We have decided to move them out and replace them with a bed where people can sleep side by side.

So that is done now, it just needs to be carried up the stairs and assembled. For this we need a young man who has two functioning rotator cuffs. My physical therapist told me this morning that I may have calcific tendinitis and should ‘baby’ my shoulder and right arm for a few days. This is too bad. I love assembling and disassembling furniture.

Slowing down

For nearly a year we have been invited to attend a monthly meditation session led by the husband of my future flight instructor (if ever I am around long enough to benefit from instruction and have enough money saved to buy a quart of a plane).

And so this morning we finally went. We joined a group that has been meeting for many years, some since 2004.  Yet the meditation sessions John led us through were fresh and new to everyone it seemed.  In one morning we learned to control our breathing and heartbeat and made everything go into slow motion – it was a very liberating experience – to know one can do this, to know one can slow things down when the world is spinning too fast.

In the afternoon we started cleaning the garden – this turned out to be a bit difficult for two people with right rotator cuff problems – no raking or anything that required a functional right shoulder.  Still I managed to clean out the asparagus bed and cover the tops of the new shoots with a layer of rich soil that should make for some fabulous Flemish dinners in a month or so.

Treats and more

All day I read and wrote about the Paris Declaration, country ownership, donor harmonization and such. It is a fascinating topic. Seven years ago a process got set in motion to reform foreign aid, the way it is given, the way it is processed, the way it is received and the way money is turned into progress. Now, all these years and several big conferences later there is some progress, some regress and some standstill. I am trying to understand the reasons for all three in the hope that we can distill some messages that are practical and hopeful.

I am learning a lot from these readings. One thing I learned is that it is important to know the author(s) of the report cards – as the saying goes, our findings tend to follow our lookings. I also learned that foreign aid is a 220 (or so) billion industry. Sixty percent of that comes from the wealthy economies, the longtime and traditional donors. Of the rest a little more than half comes from philanthropists, corporate foundations, individuals and NGOs and the remainder from emergent economies. This is, by the way, exactly the same amount mentioned on a Prudential billboard I drive by every day as the total value of its holdings of retirement monies – a coincidence or what?

I started the day with an early morning walk amongst Lobster Cove and Smith Point’s many birds, flowering trees and magnificent views. This treat was followed by another treat, my weekly massage by Abi who tried in vain to uplift my painful shoulder, leading to a decision to resume physical therapy. The rest of the day I worked hard, learning and writing, so I could go to another treat in the evening: a concert by Zoe Lewis at Club Passim.

Zoe, a virtuoso in storytelling, improv, songwriting, poetry, keyboard, ukulele, harmonica, guitar, penny whistle, singing (all sorts of traditions) and foot stomping (some of these at the same time) was accompanied by other virtuoso like Alison’s Mark on the clarinet, a young harmonica player and another singer/songwriter/guitarist who opened for her. It was a delightful evening in a historic place – photos of young Dylan and Baez decorated the walls – this is where much music history of my generation was made. I finally made it there, only 30 miles away from our house.


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