Archive Page 113

Treats and more

All day I read and wrote about the Paris Declaration, country ownership, donor harmonization and such. It is a fascinating topic. Seven years ago a process got set in motion to reform foreign aid, the way it is given, the way it is processed, the way it is received and the way money is turned into progress. Now, all these years and several big conferences later there is some progress, some regress and some standstill. I am trying to understand the reasons for all three in the hope that we can distill some messages that are practical and hopeful.

I am learning a lot from these readings. One thing I learned is that it is important to know the author(s) of the report cards – as the saying goes, our findings tend to follow our lookings. I also learned that foreign aid is a 220 (or so) billion industry. Sixty percent of that comes from the wealthy economies, the longtime and traditional donors. Of the rest a little more than half comes from philanthropists, corporate foundations, individuals and NGOs and the remainder from emergent economies. This is, by the way, exactly the same amount mentioned on a Prudential billboard I drive by every day as the total value of its holdings of retirement monies – a coincidence or what?

I started the day with an early morning walk amongst Lobster Cove and Smith Point’s many birds, flowering trees and magnificent views. This treat was followed by another treat, my weekly massage by Abi who tried in vain to uplift my painful shoulder, leading to a decision to resume physical therapy. The rest of the day I worked hard, learning and writing, so I could go to another treat in the evening: a concert by Zoe Lewis at Club Passim.

Zoe, a virtuoso in storytelling, improv, songwriting, poetry, keyboard, ukulele, harmonica, guitar, penny whistle, singing (all sorts of traditions) and foot stomping (some of these at the same time) was accompanied by other virtuoso like Alison’s Mark on the clarinet, a young harmonica player and another singer/songwriter/guitarist who opened for her. It was a delightful evening in a historic place – photos of young Dylan and Baez decorated the walls – this is where much music history of my generation was made. I finally made it there, only 30 miles away from our house.

Old clutter and new beginnings

I have a new office mate. We are getting to know each other. The first thing I discovered about her is that she admitted she doesn’t like clutter. Having been alone in that office for some time I had cluttered up even her side of the room with all sorts of African tchotchkies that I wasn’t quite ready to part with. Now they are all in a bag underneath my desk, awaiting their destiny. I think it will be another round of give-aways.

At first I was afraid that we weren’t well matched on other things as well but that turned out to be wrong. She lived in Holland for 13 years and understands and speaks some Dutch, and loves my country, its food and its people. She also has many years of experience in Africa and worked with organizations and people I know.

Today we went on an hour long walk along the Charles River, enjoying the warm spring weather, the daffodils that someone (the city?) planted along the river and the flowering trees that line the river. Walking like that for several miles is easy and wonderful, and good for my stiff ankle and bad shoulder. For once it was a near painless experience, maybe because of the distraction of conversation and the fun of starting a new friendship.

Money

Yesterday was all about money, some big for us, some big for the town. First there was the signing of our new mortgage which got us the lowest rate ever just the day after interest rates are going up. For once we are lucky on that front. It will shave a few 100 dollars of our payments to the bank each month and thousands off the interest we are paying. We hope this is the last time we have to do this. Fifteen years from now we should be the proud owners of our house. We will be in or close to our eighties.

The annual town meeting took place in the elementary school gym. Years ago I had to sit on the bleachers where the non-voting members of the public have to sit. That was before I became an American citizen. Now I could vote.  The annual town meeting is a highly choreographed form of democracy with lots of rules that are either law, Roberts’ rules or the veteran town moderator’s established ways of keeping things moving, people in line and the input limited.

One item on the warrant that did not pass was a classic example of the proposers not having done their homework (or at least most of them – some had), polarizing viewpoints rather than finding the common ground that, I am sure, is there. It pits one group (historical preservation) against another (wealthy home owners) in a needlessly confrontational way that obscures the common good behind self interest. Too bad.

We quietly left the meeting when item 18 (of 29) was up for vote, because it was, after all, a school night, with the next day my first day in the office in nearly 2 months.

The ride to work is easier now, leaving in the semi-dark and arriving in full daylight – it makes the commute slightly easier. I discovered I am sharing my office now with a new arrival. It feels a little cramped.

144 babies

Tessa had bought 144 tiny plastic babies, among other things, to liven up Sita’s baby shower. There were origami papers to make cranes, playdough for a juried contest for the best playdough baby, tiny white buckets with airplants as party favors, and more. She has a future as a party organizer.

The cats were sequestered in one room, Tessa’s dogs in another, smelling each other but not allowed any contact as that would have meant fireworks.

Sita and Jim unpacked a mountain of gifts, with baby clothes that could satisfy the needs of an entire orphanage.

No bite: public versus private health up close

As we were settling down in our seats at gate E5 at Schiphol yesterday, an elderly Indian couple sat down in back of me. As soon as the woman sat down she started coughing, a rough deep cough not like one that comes with a cold. “TB,” flashed through my mind, not that I know what a TB cough sounds like, but my mind had put India and coughing together.

The woman occupying the seat next to her asked to be reseated and indicated her concern about having a serious cougher in a plane that would be circulating air for the next 7 hours. Other people in the neighborhood agreed with nodding heads. A purser was dispatched and he asked the woman how she was feeling. Fine, she indicated, and her husband confirmed. The purser asked her to put her hand in front of her mouth as she coughed. The couple agreed.

But no one sitting around the couple felt comforted by this attempt at containment.  The head flight attendant was called in. She listened patiently to the complaints, walked up to the couple and said in the sweetest voice, “I hear you are not feeling well.” This was of course instantly denied.

A woman next to me, who was studying Stata, a statistical software package used among others by epidemiologists told me the woman should be taken off the plane as she was a public health risk. And just as she was saying this I was reading the chapter about American public health systems losing their bite sometime in the second half of the 1900s in Laurie Garrett’s book ‘Betrayal of Trust.’

In the end the Indian woman was given a painter’s mask and told to keep it on during the entire trip (she didn’t really) and the crisis was, at least for the duration of the trip, averted. I saw the ‘no bite’ approach of public health in America, demonstrated right before my eyes, along with the terrible dilemma of public versus personal health.

Up north again

Although I slept about half the flight time from Johannesburg to Amsterdam, that still left about five hours of not sleeping in a completely full plane. Knowing that I was not continuing to Boston, another 7 plus hours, helped to see me through the waking hours. I don’t do this enough, this breaking of the trip in Amsterdam – something I am entitled to as per our travel policy. On my way out, breaking the trip in Europe means leaving home a day earlier, and so I don’t. But now the break was very welcome.

I stayed at my adopted Dutch home, near the airport which has a lot to look forward to: a friendship that dates back to the 60s, a long walk with one or two dogs, unlimited great coffee from a machine that never tires of making good coffee, freshly laid eggs and always a good glass wine.

We went to the shopping street of my childhood, a melancholy experience filled with memories of riding there on my bike, or going shopping for the Saturday meal with my father. He would go to the ‘traiteur’ and stocked up on French cheeses and French bread, good wines. He would not think about buying staples, that was my mom’s job. Our French Saturday meals were more memorable than all the other weekly ones my working mom or the help prepared. He would also take us on Sundays to museums around Holland, also memorable, while my mother rested from doing three jobs at once. Life’s not fair for working moms.

I stocked up on Dutch goodies (cheese and licorice) and helped S. pick out a baby shower gift for Sita and Jim in a wonderful toy store that reminded me of Newburyport’s Dragon’s Nest, a place where Tessa lost her ‘lapje,’ a tiny dirty and smelly strip of a crib sheet that served as her safety blankie. The drama ended with picking the piece of cloth out of the garbage can of the toy store a few tense hours later.

After our shopping we went to see S’s 94 year old mom who still lives by herself in the house I remember from the 60s, entirely unchanged. We sat in the kitchen with its (old Dutch) tiled kitchen table and the antlers from various members of the deer family hanging on the old wood paneling. We drank tea and ate thin slivers of New York cheese cake while talking about ‘koetjes and kalfjes’ (cows and calves). I would like to be as sharp when I am 94. Nearly a decade ago we had hosted her and her late husband at Lobster Cove and ate, of course, lobster, an experience she remembered fondly. She asked about Axel’s lobster traps, and she asked about the girls who she first met when they were the same age I was when I first met her all these years ago.

The rest of my time was a blur as my tiredness was setting in. I remember the meal, the first glass of wonderful wine, but hardly the second. I woke up in the middle of the night, wondering where I was, where the doors I was seeing led to, entirely disoriented. Maybe that is not so surprisingly after sleeping in so many different rooms for the last 6 weeks.

And now I am home again, and re-acquaint with my hubby, sitting by the fire because it is still winter in the northern hemisphere, even though high temperatures, in the US and in Holland, fooled everyone, including the flowering trees.

Reporting time

I had the luxury of one full day to finish my trip reports (there were four different ones), sorting through six weeks of small pieces of paper to accompany my expense report and other tedious chores that kick in towards the end of a trip.

The staff had organized a small goodbye party, including three cakes and a speech, very touching.

I signed for the bumper scratches on my shiny red rental car and handed in the keys. It was the only blemish on an otherwise perfect 6 weeks. I was told that it was nothing. The insurance will pay. Still.

I made the rounds for goodbye hugs at 5 PM when the office empties. Driver Charles drove me back to the apartment where I dined on the last leftovers in the fridge: yogurt with muesli, a small chunk of cheese and a few small sate sticks while watching Private Benjamin, the only program I seem to be able to get on the complicated TV and dish arrangement (too late to learn now).

The suitcase is packed and the sleeping pills are handy for the 11 hour flight to Amsterdam and to Sietske. Goodbye to South Africa, for now.

Community

I found my way to an informal Quaker worship group in Pretoria, not that far from where I live. It was at a private residence – the official Meeting House is in Johannesburg, some 55 km away. To avoid long drives every Sunday the Pretoria group meets at people’s homes every two weeks.

The house was lovely, old, with tin ceilings and old doors, the ones with the top and bottom part opening separately – a feature you find in old Dutch homes – so you can hang over the bottom and chat with your neighbor without opening you house. Unlike the area where I live, with its high walls, electric fencing and people inside being tightly shut out from the outside, where security companies making fortunes from fear, this house was in a neighborhood that appeared to be without fear: gates were missing or open, doors to the street were open, no electric wires nor placards posted in the grass on or in the walls that indicated which security company was in charge. It was in a place where one could imagine the existence of a community.

Inside was also neat. It was refreshing to be in a house without electronics, no sign of TVs, computers, iPads and such. There were two comfortable couches, a table made from a traditional African resting bed with several unmatched vases filled with garden flowers that were picked by kids I imagined.  It was a joyous and happy place.

I was warmly welcomed by a small group – maybe there were 15 in all, five of them kids. There were other visitors, a retired couple, from Concord Friends Meeting in New Hampshire, on a two year Peace Corps stint as teachers in a primary and secondary school in a village some distance away.

A young African woman, who accompanied her partner to the silent meeting from time to time, had noticed, as I had, that there were lots of grey hairs in the room. I also noticed quite a few Birkenstocks or look-alikes, very few painted toenails (mine and the hostess), and mostly white folks in comfortable and sensible rather than fashionable dress.

It was mostly a silent meeting and I liked it; not quite the feeling of weightlessness of yesterday in the salty spa pool, but a feeling of being in tune with the universe. A few people spoke but I didn’t get the messages the words behind the words and so I let them pass like riverboats coming into sight and then disappearing from sight, without a trace.

I commented on the excellent coffee we were served afterwards, with real speculaas cookies, and was promptly given a bag of coffee to take back to my apartment that doesn’t have coffee making equipment. I protested to no avail.

Two people had Dutch roots, one had left Friesland with her family when she was nine – going on a four week journey to the other part of the world in 1954. I told her I used to read books, when I was about that age, about kids emigrating and how jealous I was, living in the house and town of my grandparents, something I found very boring. One book I remember as if I read it yesterday, ‘the boot vertrekt zonder Claartje’ (the boat leaves without Clara) about a family moving to Canada.  The funny thing is that this 9 year old is now a very root-bound pensionada  (‘retired spare part’ she called herself) who hasn’t moved much since long ago while I, feeling so root-bound in my youth, are travelling around the world as if there is no tomorrow.

Afloat

I slept terribly last night, from hour to hour, an interminable night. I gave up at 5 AM and watched the sun come up over the valley. The day was full of promises.

I worked for a while on my next assignment and then joined the well-heeled folks of Waterkloof Heights/Ridge for a latte at the little shopping center down the street. It was the perfect spot, in the warm fall sun, to review resumes for my co-facilitator in Bangladesh and meeting up for a final debrief with the project director. We talked about the project and when I would come back. I indicated that the project is first in line after the grandbaby is born and my grand-maternity leave has expired.

The afternoon was dedicated to a final soak and massage at the spa. It was twofer day and Katie and I got the ‘flotation therapy’ for free – a half hour in a kind of Dead Sea bath – a weightless float in a dark room – it was delicious and would have been totally relaxing if I hadn’t had to watch out for floating into Katie – suspended at the other side of the small round and shallow pool. I was thinking a lot about the grand-baby, being similarly suspended, in a much smaller space, making summersaults – I had an urge to do the same, feeling what that would be like.

We followed the flotation treatment with a Swedish massage which was followed by a sushi feast. It was good that Katie drove us back as my massage brain was hardly dependable, what with traffic going in the wrong direction

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All done

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I drove to the last day of my last assignment trying out a different route. I am getting quite comfortable driving with a stick shift on the wrong side of the road. I do still occasionally activate the windshield wipers when I want to indicate that I am turning left or right but I am mostly getting it right. Except for my backing out of the apartment’s parking lot – Jabu, who looks after the place was gesticulating frantically but the scrape with a brick wall had already left its mark on the red lacquer of my rental. It is one of the few ugly marks on an otherwise unblemished 6 weeks in Southern Africa.

And so I am basking in that feeling of having completed all assignments to the client’s satisfaction. The (re)treat is over – two intense days of learning and talking about things that are important for a team. In a way there was too much to absorb – the awareness of styles and how we would like to be approached when we get irritated about people not acting we would like them to act. It was a lot to absorb and will need a lot of reminding, supporting, and some gentle confronting.

The team made a commitment that it is up to the task and headed out into the weekend. But not before a bottle of champagne was popped open and there was much thanking and toasting and clinking of filled champagne glasses. At every twist and turn one is reminded of being in a wine-producing country.

I returned home exhausted, unpacked my facilitator bags and collapsed in front of the TV watching a famous South African soap opera, an episode with much sadness. From the previews I could tell that the next episode will star another emotion, anger.

I went out for dinner with two colleagues who had been in the (re)treat. We agreed we would not talk about the retreat, let is simmer for a bit.  We talked about the joy of flying in small planes, a hobby we shared, and that is popular in South Africa. I realized I haven’t flown since last November when Bill’s plane went into the shop for a makeover.

Today’s program consists of a talk with the chief about future work here, a half hour of ‘flotation therapy’ at the Soulstice Spa, followed by an hour massage, and finished off with a shushi dinner with friends.  Life’s good.


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