Archive Page 202

Frogs to start with

An ADRA driver picked us up and took us up to Dodowa, in principle a ride of one hour that took us closer to 2 hours. We kept turning right, and then right again, and again, and again. I expected to find ourselves back at where we started. I find the layout of Accra and its outer roads very confusing and disorienting. There are some cities, like New York City or Washington, where I can quickly orient myself, even without a map. Accra is the opposite, together with Conakry, two places I never figured out despite multiple visits.

The start of the retreat was as tentative as the 9 months of stop and go preparation. Of the 30+ invitees only 4 were present at the appointed (lunch) time, 11 people showed up an hour later, still working on their lunch when we were supposed to have started. More people straggled in over the next few hours. Nevertheless, by dinner time we had caught up with our planned program and everyone was deeply involved reflecting about leadership, their own and others’.

After dinner we lost people as fast as we had gained them. Some went home even though we already paid for their hotel room. We are apparently still too close to Accra. Still, many are intrigued with the methodology and the approach we are taking and fourteen people showed up for the after dinner session on work climate. Our lead facilitator was stuck in the rush hour traffic leaving Accra for hours and Diane, bless her heart, jumped in with only seconds notice and ran a good session in his stead.

We are staying in a hotel that was designed, I think, by a builder who doesn’t believe in architects and who cheaped out on materials. It is a veritable accident waiting to happen with shiny tiled stairs that could kill you in the rain and levels up and down everywhere, gratuitous steps without a purpose other than to trip you. Tripping would be a disaster for me as I cannot catch myself with two arms. Thus I walk slowly and very mindfully through the long death trap hallways, up and down levels that are hardly noticeable because the tiles fool you into believing all is level.

When I went to check out the hotel on Monday, straight off the plane, a gathering of traditional rulers was in session. Each ruler was decked out in magnificent cloth, loosely draped over one shoulder, with spectacular staffs, thick gold necklaces and head bands with fur from powerful wild animals. It was a photographer’s dream but I was too timid to snatch the opportunity until invited to pose with two of them. I was promptly addressed as ‘wife’ by one – apparently spouses can be acquired easily by a traditional ruler. I smiled and then we parted ways – divorce being just as easy.

At the end of the day I retreated to my enormous, gaudy pink and gold room. Outside the hotel, thousands of noisy bullfrogs, who live in the blue-tiled moat that traverses the grounds, make any conversation impossible. They make such a racket that neither the airco nor music could drown them out. It is a deafening cacophony of ribbits and croaks that went on all through the night. According to my faithful medicine cards, the frog stands for cleansing, new beginnings, or maybe simply a good start.

Touched

I woke up to the news that Ted Kennedy died. Someone reminded us how many people’s lives he affected and I thought of Said, now settled in Cambridge with MP and Wafa; that’s three people, right close to me whose lives he touched.

One of my first experiences of America’s internal politics was watching Axel’s parents mutter and sputter as they sat in the smoke filled TV room, each in their own naugahyde chair, hers white and his red, watching Teddy Kennedy speak. The political divide between Axel and his parents was always huge; they were staunch republicans and Reagan could not do no wrong.

Back in Ghana we met with our co-facilitators at the ADRA office which has become like a home away from home. The ADRA staff treats us as family members, looking after our comfort, picking us up, dropping us off. They do all this without us signing logbooks or collecting receipts for reimbursements from someplace else – an old fashioned kind of courtesy that is rare in my line of work. It’s all driven by a deep concern for our well being and old fashioned hospitality.

We completed our preparations for the senior leadership retreat and made a visit to the US embassy compound. I asked the guard who checked us in whether President Obama also had to hand over his cell phone, show his passport and walk through the metal detector [big laugh].  Everyone had been there to see the president; it had been a time of great excitement and tons of extra work, gladly done for the reward of seeing his majesty himself.

In the meantime Diane and I had a chance to get to know each other better.  Diane lived in Ghana some 12 years ago as Plan International’s country director. Her account of that time was so very positive that I did not understand why she had left the position, until I learned of the rather dramatic circumstances that spurred her family’s departure: she lost her mother-in-law, only days after she had returned to her native Bolivia from a visit to Ghana, to a particular malignant form of malaria; she nearly lost her then 2 year old daughter. Diane herself left the country seriously ill with the same disease and struggled to recover in Britain. While all this was happening their house got cleaned out by burglars. All circumstances combined to signal them that it was time to leave. The return back to Ghana is clearly an emotional experience.

Diane is rediscovering her old staff. They all seemed to have done well; most impressive is the one who is currently vice-president of the country. We schemed how she could get a message to him.   Conveniently we had dinner with Brian, a friend and member of the original leadership development facilitator team, who was part of the current president’s campaign and transition team. He will pass Diane’s personal message to the vice-president. How cool is that?

Educating testosterone

The New York Times published a series of articles with a focus on women. The articles were sent to me also by email by various friends and colleagues and posted on facebook.

The conclusion was so obvious and earth shattering (no, wrong metaphor) – namely that when poor women are given the chance to lift themselves up, they tend to lift everyone else up around them, including their abusive husbands. When people say that ‘a tide lifts all boats’ I now realize that this is not about economic progress but about the influence of the moon (feminine) and its tides (feminine).

 I was particularly struck by research findings about crops produced by men and women, not sure where it was, India may be. When the men’s crops did well (and these crops were things not necessarily good for humanity, like tobacco) the earned money was used for sex, drugs and alcohol; when the women did well (crops to feed themselves and others) the money went to education, food and clothes. Even if it is an oversimplification and generalization, everything I have seen in my career confirms this. Education of men and women changes the dynamics significantly.

All the articles were right in line with Bryan Sykes’ findings as described in ‘Adam’s curse,’ as well as the description that Sarah Chayes gives about the behavior of men the last 20 or so years in Afghanistan, especially in and around Kandahar, and especially the non-educated men.  Can we take this curse another 100 or 200 thousand years, as Sykes predicts the lifespan of the Y chromosome? Women do keep up half the sky; they also counteract unbridled and uneducated testosterone.

In the meantime, things continue to move along in Ghana. Diane arrived, as intended, on the KLM flight, in good spirits and rested. We ran into our colleagues Issakha and Aboubakry, both from Senegal, who are here setting up a new regional project that MSH won. Issakha will be the project director based in Accra and Aboubakry, who I last worked with 7 years ago, will be the technical lead based in Dakar. We had dinner together and had a good time.

At 10 PM I tumbled into bed and fell into a bottomless sleep, making up for a missed night.

Moving right along

Even my comfortable business class seat was hardly wide enough to hold me and my sling contraption. It took me several hours over the Atlantic to get comfortable enough to fall asleep. Luckily I had no neighbor; he or she would have been whacked a few times with my slinged arm on a shelf.

It was a good thing I had some sleep. As soon as I had checked in to the hotel, before my luggage even made it upstairs, I was on my way in a taxi to a health facility on the outskirts of Accra to meet up with part of the team that is running the coming retreat.  Despite Axel’s admonition at our goodbye (‘now, take it easy’) and my answer (‘sure! you know me!’) I did not want to miss the chance to visit the health facilities that would be hosting the most senior leaders from the ministry for their scanning visit and I also was curious to see what my team mates were actually saying about the retreat and the field visits.

What struck me right away was the absence of context setting. I guess people are used to headquarter folks coming in and handing them a letter telling them to be here or there (usually in just a few days) or hosting this or that group. The conversation was short and straightforward but if I had been on the receiving end I would have wondered, ‘what’s this all about?’  Maybe the health facility staff did wonder but are used to never question people higher in the hierarchy.  I started to add some context to the retreat and soon my colleagues added this to their introductions and I could sit back again and watch (and trying not to yawn).

I visited more places, offices, hospitals and health centers than I can remember. I was in a bit of a fog from the 11 hour flight and the 4 hour wait at JFK. Besides, the weather was hot and humid, just what I had escaped in Massachusetts and New York; travelling under such conditions is hard at any time.

The roads were either bumpy, requiring us to zigzag, tripling the distance, or newly paved which the driver took as a sign to accelerate to twice the speed limit. What really did me in was the constant getting in  and out of the large ministry of health  SUV, the kind that you have to pull yourself up in; it’s tricky with only one arm. Halfway through the afternoon I was getting very sleepy and  wondered why I was putting myself through this. Now, back in the cool hotel, after a bath and a change of clothes I am pleased again that I went. It was very illuminating.

So now I am back again in the land that tells sexual deviants, right at the immigration desk, to go someplace else (for their own and others’ good). I am trying to imagine someone walking up to the officer and saying that he’s a deviant and that it would be better if he goes someplace else. On which plane would they put him? The Virgin Nigeria that was parked in a far corner?

I am also in the land where nearly everything you need can be bought from your car window; like Ethiopia, this is a country full of entrepreneurs – money can be made in a thousand different ways but most seems to be made in tiny increments from selling telephone cards, cheap stuff from China, snacks or cold drinks.

The city is still full of pictures of candidates who lost the elections. It will help with name recognition, I suppose, in the next elections, some years into the future. Accra is also full of signs that our president was here: there are tiny Obama chop shops (local food shacks). Enormous billboards feature the partnership for change with John Atta Mills and Obama shaking hands – they both ran on a similar change and hope platform.  

Most striking is how clean the city looks. A man in blue coveralls with  a yellow safety vest is weeding the sidewalk of one of the main drags with gloved hands. Maybe no one told him he could stop now and that Obama has left; or might it be possible that the municipality of Accra plans to keep this up? That would be something to write about.

Happy mayhem

The planned flight to Bar Harbor was cancelled. We were sitting in a trough between two weather systems, one coming up from the south-west and hurricane Bill breathing down our necks from the south-east. When in doubt, you learn in pilot training, don’t go, especially if you have your right arm in a sling. In hindsight we could have gone. Saturday turned out to be a beautiful day. It is only now that the weather has turned: it’s windy and raining.

I used the gained hours of the morning to pack for my trip and clean my office, removing piles of papers from my desk and from the floor. I opened a large suitcase in the guestroom and a smaller one in our bedroom. The guestroom suitcase is slowly being filled with stuff that I want to take to Afghanistan: knitting supplies, sewing supplies, water color supplies, indispensable CVS articles and some of the goodies Reinout brought from Holland.  The small suitcase in the bedroom is for the one week trip to Ghana that starts in a few hours.

Early in the morning, too early for some, the Greek painters showed up with their countless trucks. It was a noisy and boisterous arrival punctuated by the sound of ladders being extended against walls, paint cans being opened, a few fights (in Greek) about things we could not understand and all the other noises that come along with 10 Greek painters.

To make things more interesting, the plasterer also showed up, accompanied by a helper from our contractor (another set of trucks added to the mayhem). As the letters on his truck indicated (‘Ye ole’ English’), he was from England, something that was quite obvious once he opened his mouth. He brought his own tea bags because he doesn’t trust Americans making tea. When he found out I was originally from across the Channel, and after I showed him our tea cosy, he was convinced that I could be trusted with the task.

Tessa called me on the house line to find out whether it was safe to go outside before opening the door of the barn. She had to duck under a ladder and imagine the steps hidden under paint cloth, but she and Chicha could come out. Chicha was in seventh heaven, knowing the painters from their primer days here: 10 hands to throw balls and feed her the leftovers of lunch.

At lunch time Pauline arrived with her three kids and Mayssa, both from work, bringing a delicious Lebanese lunch. Pauline is married to Alberto from Lebanon and Mayssa is Lebanese herself. Two years ago, when Axel was still in the rehab hospital and I in a wheelchair, Pauline and Alberto had brought a complete Lebanese mezze to cheer me up; it did, and I had asked for a repeat, this time with Axel and without Alberto who was, unfortunately, in Lebanon.

Having guests over and seeing small kids discover the beach drew us out of the house from the interminable chores to hang out with them in and around the water. I cheated a bit taking my sling off but it was too hot and sticky to keep it on. We stood in the water until our skin was wrinkled.

At the end of the day we introduced the city kids to how vegetable grow (not in supermarket bins). They loved discovering our garden, eating peas, beans, tomatoes straight from the vine. They delighted in seeing potatoes emerge from the dark soil, like presents in grab bag. We picked a huge patty-pan squash and a zucchini the size of a small baseball bat; Pauline had her arms full with stuff these kids usually don’t care about; now they were fighting for more. They piled into the car holding flowers and with the long Asian green beans dangling from their mouths.

Adverse

As the news about our departure for Afghanistan is spreading, more and more people are introduced to us who have some connection or another to this country. Yesterday morning we went for a walk downtown and introduced ourselves to Denise, the manager of the Nantucket chocolate shop downtown. We had learned that her husband is embedded as an historian with the military in afghanistan. Her 6 year old twins cope, each in their own way, with having their dad in that faraway and scary country.

We exchanged names and email addresses and when Axel pulled a business card out of his wallet I noticed the crisp bills of 100 and 500 Afghani  (this is how we are different, mine were put away in the foreign currency drawer, weeks ago). We gave Denise two bills of 100 for her boys and she repaid us with chocolate truffles. Where else in the US could you exchange Afghani for chocolate truffles? We parted with the plan to connect her kids’ school with Afghan kids who can write in English and have internet access. I think I can find some among my new Afghan colleagues.

We also made contact with DJ’s neighbor Robin, who is enjoying a New England summer in her house in Rockport after four and a half years in Afghanistan. She knows tons of people in our new homeland which is not surprising as communication is her field. It seems that most of our recent contacts are communication people: film makers, strategic communication specialists, writers and journalists. Robin, it turns out, has worked in that capacity with several of the organizations and projects Axel has been trying to contact. We made plans to see each other soon and she will introduce us to others of the community in greater Boston who have a connection with Afghanistan.

For the rest of the day we watched the outer tendrils of hurricane Bill come closer and closer while trying to stay productive in the intense heat and humidity; for me that meant sitting right in front of the fan in my office; Axel was better off in his tiny air-conditioned office. Tessa did the only smart thing and sat on the beach or in/on the water, where Chicha accompanied her for a ride on the surf plank. She finally had a day off.

Somehow, all the experiences, thoughts, worries and anticipations of this and the next weeks wrapped themselves together during the night into a dream or series of dreams. ‘Adverse’ was the word that was on my lips when I woke up and it described well the conditions of people, cars, environment, bodies that were featured; yet everyone was smiling and coping as best as they could, and most importantly, taking great care that I was comfortable and safe. I woke up in a coughing fit just when I was going to call for help to remove, in my dream state, an insect that looked like a flying tick, bulging with my blood but with delicate moth like wings. It had embedded itself firmly in my arm. In Dutch the word for arm is the same as for poor (penniless); adverse indeed.

The good and the bad

A thick layer of saturated air hangs above the ground, obscuring the cove. Every 15 second the foghorn sounds its mournful warning to ships approaching our coast. It brings back memories to my first stay in this town and house, some 30 years ago. Then the foghorn startled me; now it is one of the most familiar and dearest sounds I can imagine, as it signals home.

I followed the elections in Afghanistan as best as I could on the internet. It was hard to gauge the overall success or failure. The stories put on blogs in and in the media, the photos and the videos were inspiring and heart breaking. Nothing took away from my determination to go there and contribute whatever I can. Axel was not fazed either.

The day started badly and unfolded badly for awhile: first a rear ending, some 15 minutes into my commute, when I stood on the breaks for a truck that swerved for a tractor trailer that pulled on to the highway without much of a stop or concern for the traffic in its lane. This led to a pile up behind me. I was the least impacted and only our car’s brand new bumper was scratched. It was my luck that a Toyota was in back of me, about the same size as our car; the lady in back of me was rear-ended by a large pickup truck that smashed up her entire backside. The two culprits in front of me drove off into the distance without a worry in the world, maybe even oblivious to the mess they had created behind them.

So we sat by the side of the road, exchanging information while the flashing blue lights of the police cruiser made everyone slow down and caused a rubberneck traffic jam on both sides of 128. Not a good start but then again, I was OK and so was my recuperating shoulder, on this first commute in after my surgery.

After a delightful lunch outside with my French speaking colleagues (our monthly dejeuner francais) I was stung by a wasp which produced a pain so piercing I was not able to walk any longer. Debbie, our receptionist, put my foot in a basin with water, then produced ice and about 20 minutes later I could walk again. Now, the next day, it is still hurting and itching a lot.

My departure date to Kabul was changed once again, just when I thought everything was settled. I am now leaving on the 21stof September, mostly to avoid the slow weeks of Ramadan and the festivities at the end. My new boss insists on me having as much time to recover here and the professional attention of well trained and experienced physical therapists before I transfer to such care in Afghanistan. He has a point and everyone was relieved. Still, as per September 1 I will be considered permanent staff of the Afghanistan project, even though I am still formally based in Cambridge. The latter arrangement will last (even though after September 23 I will be physically in Kabul) until the project extension contracts is signed (October? November?) I am trying to sort out the implications of this organizational arrangement and its effect on my allowances and taxes; this is a bit of a research project.

I attended a few meetings and many more celebrations of birthdays and people departing, all accompanied by cakes and snacks, bringing everyone together; a slow work day one could say, but socially quite nice. I also cleaned out the last pieces of my office so that Joan can now sit at my desk and most of the physical traces of my 22 years of work at MSH headquarters are now gone: thrown out, given away or packed up.

Back at home Axel had blown a fuse, a combination of project management overload (still a result of the brain injury), the consequences of sending out mixed messages to the girls and the oppressing heat. It made me want to delay my return home, a selfish strategy of avoidance rather than rescue.  It was easy to let the celebrations take their course; as a result I left too late to avoid traffic and inched my way home. By the time I got home Axel had cooled off a little. We decided against cooking our own meal and instead drove to Gloucester to have dinner at one of our favorite restaurants there, The Rudder.

summer 09 misc 006That’s when our luck turned. We were seated at the edge of the water, overlooking Gloucester’s inner harbor amidst countless holiday makers who were all vying for a seat on the terrace. Steve and Tessa, also in traffic, also hungry, pulled off for dinner on their way home from Boston. By the time we came home everyone and everything had cooled off and we were able to have a family meeting about supporting one another, chores and cleaning up our communication signals. Just as in Afghanistan, good and bad stuff intermingled to create an intense day for all of us.

Wonder boy

I continue the half day of work and half day of rest – that is just about right. Today I am going to drive myself into work, very very early before there are too many other drivers on the road. I have done some test drives around town and as long as I don’t have to buckle and unbuckle myself a lot, or move the gear shift from drive to reverse I am doing OK. I am getting quite handy with my left hand and arm.

Since I could not take Reinout and Maurits up in the skies over Essex County myself, I outsourced this to the Beverly Flight Center and went along in the back seat to make sure they got the royal treatment (they got more than that!).  I had arranged for a scenic/introductory flight and Maurits was put behind the controls in the left seat. He was going to take us up in the air and down again, coached by veteran flight instructor John.  

We flew over the waters where Andrew took them by boat the day before and we circled Cape Ann, over the route we had taken a week earlier by car. It was hazy but at 2000 feet everything below was quite clear; this included our house which we circled a few times. At the end of the trip Maurits received a student pilot logbook with his first flight lesson recorded. He also got a Beverly Flight Center baseball cap and a T-shirt. The outing was, no surprise, a big hit with both father and son, but especially with our pilot. What more could a 14 year old want?

Maybe going home, sleep in his own bed, tell his friends and show off his new iPod that looks like an iPhone but without the phone part. In between flying and boating he poured all his energy in getting the gadget geared up for the long trip home, with movies and music that would keep him occupied during the flight.

I made some significant progress on preparations for the Ghana trip. I finally got my ticket and produced a set of facilitator notes and wrote everyone I know there that I am coming their way. My energy level is increasing slowly and I am dosing my work hours so that by the time I land on Monday morning, I will be ready for the intense week of work. I am glad Diane is coming along to share the load.

We had one final American cookout before Reinout and Maurits drove off to Logan. The fresh corn and super hamburgers should see them through till they land in Amsterdam, allowing them to skip the airplane meal in the middle of the night.

While we waited for the hamburgers to cook Sita gave Maurits one last ukulele lessons and he was able to play along with her quite nicely. He is a fast learner in all aspects: bread making, iPod, motor boat, plane and ukulele – such a wonder boy.

Reasons to celebrate

Axel and I spent the entire morning at the orthopedic-industrial complex, most of it in the waiting room with all of 5 minutes, a record, with the surgeon himself. He showed us the pictures he took during the procedure, through the scope. The supra and infra spinatus were torn badly. The pictures show something that looks like nylon roping and enormous screws that the surgeon used to pull and coax the ligaments back to where they should have been attached to the bone. The surgeon is hopeful that I will get my full range of motion back. Given the damage this is either a miracle or unlikely. Time will tell.

The rest of the afternoon I tried to focus on work and my departure to Kabul, with the date now set for 9/9/(0)9 , With all these nines it must be an auspicious day. According to some random numerology website, the number nine is about  “a shift from the material to the spiritual. Selfless service and universal ideas become paramount. […] the Nine closes the cycle by returning its love and compassion to higher ideals.” I think that fits nicely with my desire to work in Afghanistan.

But before my departure to Kabul there will be another departure next Sunday for a quick assignment in Ghana, to hand over senior leadership development work to my colleague Diane. I finally got the ticket and it looks like everything is all set to go. For our administrative staff it has been a month-long obstacle course to pull this off and I am grateful for their perseverance and good humor.

In the evening we celebarted Sita and Jim’s engagement  with three sets of parents and two sets of siblings. We were able to seat everyone around the large dining room table. Axel toasted the young couple and some of us got a little teary. As the mother of the bride this is all new territory for me and I spent considerable energy getting the dinner just right, including, as Sita noticed, preparing appetizers with all the things she hates: anchovies, olives, mushrooms and shrimp. I  had to ask myself what that was all about; some sort of unconscious boycot?

Tessa had made the cutest place setting cards and Reinout folded the napkins (where did he learn that?) that I thought should have been ironed but Sita told me not to bother. The wineglasses, table cloth and silverware did not match (who now has 12 of everything?) and everyone brought a few dishes. The arrangement and informality of it all is simply a taste of the what’s to come with the wedding, of the do-it-yourself variety. We will have little to do with the preparations, a little hard from our base in Kabul – but we will be there when it is all organized, and probably write a few checks.

Just when our party was breaking up Reinout and Maurits returned from their boat trip in the Essex waters, windblown faces, bronzed and happy as two little clams. Maurits had captained the boat at dazzling speed in between the red and green lights that showed the way back to the harbor after the sunlight had gone; obviously much more fun than an engagement party with adults he didn’t know. He’s also happy because he has a new iPod that keeps him busy when he is not boating, swimming or throwing sticks to the dog.

Dog days 2

I started the day guiding a frustrated Steve to his new job by phone. He got lost in the Fenway around 7:30, not a good place or time. Having two Google maps in front of me I led him all over the BackBay until that big sigh of relief: destination in sight. Then he discovered he did not have to be there until 1 and suffered that most common illness of organizations: a lousy induction of new employees. I hope this does not omen badly. Steve is not doing work because he likes to but because he needs to – all of it a necessary evil until he has saved enough money to buy himself a goat farm. That is the long term vision and he is willing to suffer through much to get there.

I feel fortunate that I do like my work. My attention is beginning to converge on two countries, out of the 10 or so I had something going on in. Now it is just Ghana and Afghanistan. I thought I was all set with my upcoming Ghana trip and discovered only yesterday that the business ticket I had requested because of my arm had not been bought and is now getting too expensive. This is a trip that has been on the books for about 2 months. I am tired of having this kind of stress just before a trip. Five days before departure tickets become hard to get, especially when vacations are ending and I have lost my flexibility of dates and time. The only ticket I can get brings me home 3 days later than I had planned and only one week before my departure to Afghanistan. Not a nice prospect.

Yesterday I learned that my hearing in my right side is bad; a suspicion of this was picked up by my recent physical. The audiologist tested my hearing and showed me the resulting graph: right was a red line, below normal. I wonder if this is yet another delayed effect of the crash. There was no infection and no obvious reason for the hearing loss and so I have to squeeze in yet another visit to a specialist before I go.

Once again it was hotter than Hades. I tried to focus on my work in our non-air conditioned house, sitting right in front of a fan while on the other side of the wall our fireplace is being installed. It required major reconstructive and noisy surgery on the house. Axel rushed to and fro trying to line up workmen and dealing with the fallout of our incompetent electrician who had made yet another mistake. I think we will drop him from our list. In the meantime I can hear the architect and contractor’s cash registers go ‘Gaching!’ with each passing hour.  That is the hole in which I will pour all the danger pay that is rightfully mine for serving in Afghanistan.

We had our neighbors on both sides over for drinks to meet my relatives, something Axel always insists on even though it adds yet another task to an already frantic day.  These neighbors are related to each other and so we had a lot of relatives chatting and drinking in the shade under the maple tree. Andrew and Woody were the only non relatives but they might as well have been:  close and dear friends are family.

Andrew stayed for dinner which consisted once again of lobster and corn. Our Dutch visitors are running out of opportunities to eat this coveted crustacean. Reinout dug the potatoes for our dinner straight out of our garden. Over dinner Andrew hatched a plan for a boat trip exploring the mouth of the Essex River. I could see Maurits’ eyes light up – it sounded so much more fun than an engagement dinner with the new in-laws tonight. I told him we would happily excuse him and his dad because sunset on the Essex waters is pretty neat and a chance not to be missed.


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