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Southern clutter

A straight flight down from Boston brought us to the South. This is a very different place. All the street names are reminders of the love/hate relationship with Britain. Liberty Street and George (or King) Street are side by side. It’s a very different place from New England: the architecture, the palm trees and the way women are dressed. There is no grunge look here. The southern belles we pass in the evening wear elegant dresses, long and short, with strapless tops if they can. And then there is the drawl; lovely.

We converged from all sides of the US to this place for our 1st board meeting of the year that precedes the annual conference. There are about 20 of us, always some new to the board and some going off, like me. With this last meeting I will have completed my three-year term.

A few others have brought spouses who joined us for this first informal event of our agenda – good food, catching up with news and ‘checking in.’ During the brief pauses of the phenomenal guitar players who augmented the restaurant’s ambiance we took turn talking about what was new, good or bad, since we last saw each other in October. I got to break the news about my wish to move to Afghanistan, which few people understand. For some it is like saying, I have decided to go to the moon. But others get it; that this is a huge and interesting professional challenge.

After dinner we returned to our dormitory. The conference organizers have put us in the nice dorms. I suspect we are in the graduate student dormitory: suites with three rooms, a kitchen, bathroom and small sitting area. We managed to fill up the few horizontal surfaces and the tiny space with our stuff in no time – even though we brought very little stuff with us. It never ceases to amaze me quick we can clutter up a place, any place.misc 014

All the suites are located around an open air courtyard that has a picnic table and a sofa and armchairs in it. They are made to look like the real things, but out of colorful plastic – like you would expect in a modern art museum. It rains here a lot and the dark puddles of standing water on the sofa and chair where the cushions would have been attest to this fact. It’s a small design flaw that makes them useless after weeks of rain.misc 015

Our dorm looks out over the backside of buildings; a parking place with a bunch of containers which, we discovered, are emptied at about 3 AM by large trucks that make much noise for a long time.

Full plate

Yesterday started with a one-hour long interview over the phone with colleagues in Kabul. They asked questions about intent and then contrasted those with the realities on the ground. It was good I knew these realities because otherwise it would have been pretty difficult to respond to their queries (“given that x and y, how would you go about z?”). Much of the issues raised are familiar to me in other settings as well and are typical of our third party work (getting paid by one to benefit another) where it is not unusual to find beneficiaries bristle at the conditions and strings attached to the aid given to them.

After that a quick visit to the nurse practitioner to talk about the hot flashes that now drench me several times a day and interrupt my sleep big time. The breast lumps, diagnosed so far as trauma-related, kept her from prescribing hormone replacement therapy. Instead we will experiment with a combination of herbal supplements (evening primrose oil and black cohosh) and a low dose anti-depressant to deal with the sleeping. When I called our local health food store to inquire about the brands (I was to get the European, not the American brands) I was greeted with ‘oh, hot flashes huh?’ It must be big business now with millions of baby boom women consumed by these flashes. Now my daily pill requirements are starting to look like those of very old people; pill boxes filled with a variety of pills in all sorts of shapes and colors!

Nuha arrived for a last goodbye before she flies home to Riyadh next week. It was her fourth and last visit to Lobster Cove which she had not seen in full spring bloom yet. Her last visit was when there was snow on the ground. Now she has seen Lobster Cove in every season. Her brother Youssouf joined us for a lunch en plein air. misc 142

He brought his brand new camera which was put to good use right away. In Gloucester we visited the Fishermen’s Memorial which stands on a boulevard that is lined with hundreds of American flags. When, years from now, they will show these pictures to their friends, it will not be difficult to guess in which country they were taken.

Nuha and her brother are both outdoors enthusiasts and we talked about the Appalachian Mountain Club and its great lodges and trails in the White Mountains. They might try to squeeze in a hike in the White Mountains before Nuha flies home.

Since I still don’t know whether Axel and I will get on a plane to Kabul a week from Monday (and me from there to Addis at the end of the month) I used the rest of the afternoon to get myself organized for all these trips, the first one starting today to Charleston for our annual Organization Behavior Teaching Conference and the board meeting that precedes it.

If I think about how much I will be away this summer and how badly the garden already needs attention (weeding, fertilizer) I get a little overwhelmed and wished I could use up my vacation days that will go ‘poof’ on June 30th. But I am programmed otherwise.

Joy and laughter

I went through whole sagas during my dreams last night – full stories with beginnings and endings, good people, bad people, much movement, laughter, anxiety and tropical fruit. That’s all I remember, and the fact that I was in places far from home. You’d think there was travel afoot. There is. We are off to Charleston tomorrow.

But yesterday was still a workday. My project for the day travelled to me. It was one of Alison’s teams that needed some help in its formative years to create an atmosphere in which everyone could contribute their best. It was called a retreat but turned out to be more of an advance.

I am not sure they had not realized that the teambuilding started the moment they got into a taxi to North Station. Travelling together is a great ice breaker if there is any ice to break. You discover things about each other that office life does not reveal or that has been obscured by irritation and mutual frustration.

Travelling together also presents a very clear and unambiguous common task: how to get from A to B. You have to do the same things that are required in the office, but seem less urgent there, such a being in constant communication. Moreover, the landscape changes all the time so that even old-timers and more senior folks find themselves in new situations that require some level of humility. And finally, not acting or complacency can make you miss your train and thus not end up where you wanted to get to.

I had a feeling that the tiny, three-member team had already bonded more on this trip north than during their last four month together by the time I greeted them on the platform of North Beverly.

We worked loosely through an agenda I had prepared after individual interviews. It included learning about styles, getting focused, digging below symptoms, addressing sticky issues and making commitments to each other.

Joyful collaborative effort was the magic word. When I dropped them off at the train they were off on two journeys at the same time: back to Cambridge and onwards to their newly articulated vision about superb work, great impact and communication at full throttle. I knew that the final part of the team building retreat/advance would take place during the train ride back. Alison, over to you!

All through the day I wore multiple hats as I picked them up at the train station, gave them a tour of our ‘estate,’ made them lunch, coffee, tea, cut up fruit, and finally opened the bottle of wine so we could toast to a bright future. I dropped them off at the train station after office hours, when the weekend had started. I was caterer, taxi driver designer, facilitator, psychologist, leadership developer, waitress and tour guide. I loved it!

We ended the day at Axel’s cousins Nancy and Ed with a fabulous dinner in great company. We played cards until I was the only one left in the game. We ended the evening watching the hysterically funny John Pinette talk about food and dieting (I say, nay, nay). Snippets from his show can be seen in various YouTube videos. Axel had tears streaming down his face – I haven’t laughed that much and that loud with others in ages.

Now back to earth – it’s a cold and grey day. I am drinking tea while waiting for the phone to ring. It will be a call from Kabul. On the phone will be two members of the project’s senior management team. One of them is an Afghan doctor who is the boss. He holds our immediate future in his hands.

Dreams and words

I woke up from a very vivid dream about meeting up with friends in a Buddhist temple somewhere in Pakistan or Afghanistan. The dream was full of images that are associated with ordinary life as well as adventurers.

For ordinary life there was, among other things, a kitchen overrun by dirty dishes and ants. The ants marched in full platoon formation as the Romans do in comic books. They were carrying loot with them.

The adventurers consisted of hippies, pilgrims and a family on World War I motor bikes, mom and dad on their own, with baby strapped to the back and little Johnny, hardly 6 on his own bike that was way too large. He managed with utmost concentration while his proud parents smiled at their clever progeny.

The friends who I found in the temple were my colleague Chantelle who lives in Pakistan for real and with whom I am about to get in the phone – and Tina, the wife of MSH’s president, who has lived in Pakistan at some point in time for real as well. Both wore scarves covering their head. Needless to say, Afghanistan is on my mind a lot these days.

I drove in to work yesterday listening to Obama addressing the world from Cairo. I heard his dream, which is one I share. Dreams are conveyed by words and thus words are important. People can say what they want about action. I prefer a thousand times words spoken from the heart before action over words spoken after action. In the latter case such words are almost always about regret or, if there is no heart involved, to justify the action.

With Obama’s words in my head and heart I had my second interview for the position in Afghanistan with a colleague in Nicaragua who is one of 5 people I am to speak with. The remaining three are all based in Kabul and have all known about my intention to apply for the job. I have worked closely with each of them during my last visit there. They know what I can do. But there is a corporate recruitment process that has to be adhered to and it is possible that they are interested in other candidates. Scheduling the remaining interviews is becoming increasingly difficult. As a result, I don’t think our planned trip to Kabul on June 15 will happen.

Teams

The trip I hoped to make to Kabul with Axel, in just over a week, seems more and more unlikely and the limbo continues. I try not to get too upset about this, although I am disappointed. I have stopped to look too far ahead (since there is nothing to see) and instead am focusing on the work of now. It makes me forget the disappointment as it connects me to exciting projects and wonderful people around the world.

I received the most encouraging news from my team in Cambodia which has managed to get government health facilities to make special efforts to reach out to youth, with a focus on reproductive health. The 26 or so government officials who are the first to participate in the leadership program were rather skeptical at first. Others were also skeptical about them and had their doubts that anything would change. The health facility managers set what seemed fairly un-ambitious goals for their teams – but it seems they have been surprising everyone, including themselves, and surpassed these goals.

The senior leadership work in Ghana that appeared to be stuck for the longest time in the initial planning phase has come unstuck. Now it requires the alignment of schedules and a dates. And that’s where I bump into my uncertain future.

Another piece of work like it, concerning senior professionals as well, is in the planning stages for Central America. I am helping my colleague Diane design a process for getting senior leaders focused, moving and more confident in their ability to function well as a team and fulfill their oversight role for major investments in health programs. She will do the actual facilitation since I am not a fluent Spanish speaker, but we fantasize about doing it together. Given all the scheduling challenges, this is highly unlikely.

Last night we attended the annual meeting of the Manchester Historical Society. The average age of its members is probably about 65. Although on the young side of the median, with enough grey hair, we blend in nicely. There is always wine and an impressive buffet of finger food before we start with business. This helps with the socializing although I always manage to introduce myself to someone with a mouth full.

The business of the Society is conducted in no time adhering to the letter rather than the spirit of parliamentary procedures. This makes the business meeting a breeze. The last piece of business is always a motion to ratify any errors and omissions of the executive board, which we gladly did.

The highlight of the annual meeting is always a speaker with something interesting to tell us about the place we live. This year it was a gentleman who had written a book about Cape Ann. He told us many great stories, accompanied by slides, of the famous people who resided here, their houses, their houseguests and friends, and their writings about and paintings of Manchester, Essex, Rockport or Gloucester.

Limbo

Everything is covered with a thin layer of pollen. We are in the midst of allergy season. My reaction to this is, I believe, intense tiredness; so much that I can’t keep my eyes open much beyond 8:30 PM. An allergic reaction to spring is a new experience for me. Now I can be more sympathetic to Axel who has been suffering for years.

I interrupted my workday yesterday with a visit to the ankle doctor. He had requested a CAT scan before I saw him. The scan did not provide any more meaningful information, nor did the doctor or his assistant. I think that the only thing my visit did was to help reduce payments for the hospital’s expensive machinery or, if it was already paid for, increase its profits.

That visit was definitely not a good use of our expensive health care system and insurance monies. When the doctor suggested that I go for other tests, or even come back in a year, I declined. The ankle is what it is and no miracle will fix it – the doctor said so himself. So why bother. But I am relieved that surgery was not suggested as an option.

There is no movement on the travel front except that everyone on this side of the Atlantic is now committed to the dates for our trip to Ethiopia. Since the phones were down or not working on the other side, in Addis, we don’t have any indication that ducks are lined up over there. No more news on Afghanistan either, except that, thanks to the US postal service tracking system, I know that the Afghan embassy in DC received Axel’s visa application. Limbo thus continues.

Scenarios a-plenty

The various future scenarios produce an active dream life but there is not much I can remember when I wake up except the ‘active’ part. These scenarios aren’t just about where in the world I might be, from mid-June on but also about which body parts will be in what state of repair.

There are various scenarios about where I will be in a few weeks and months. The only things I know for sure are that this week I am at work, mostly in Cambridge, every day and that next week I will be in Charleston, South Carolina. What happens after that is murky at best.

We sent Axel’s passport off to the embassy of Afghanistan in DC for a visa, just in case I am offered the job there. If that scenario were to unfold I would need to decide quickly whether to accept or decline. This requires that Axel consents to the move. Going to Kabul first to see for himself will help him decide whether it is a move that has potential for him too. If I don’t get the offer things will be simple: we all stay home. But current reality is one in which no decisions have been made and we are in limbo; no particular scenario activated just yet.

Late June, early July a trip to Ethiopia is on the books, though not confirmed yet. Buying a ticket for this requires confirmation of the Ethiopian dates and the Kabul trip. Everyone is trying. At least I own two passports, allowing me to get two visas at the same time.

A few things are given and unalterable at this point. In late July I am teaching at the BU School of Public Health and my shoulder operation is scheduled for the first week of August. August is also election month in Afghanistan and all travel is banned. Somewhere in there is also a family reunion, a visit from my brother and nephew and the finest summer days at Lobster Cove.

Future scenarios for my physical health include at least one that seems likely: my right arm in a sling through most of August and part of September. I fantasize about having my left carpal tunnel symptoms alleviated by the same operation that did wonders on the right side – but there are no windows for that to happen. And this morning I will find out what’s up with the right ankle from the super orthopede at B&W.

Homemade

We left North Truro in the middle of the morning. We had contemplated to go to Quaker Meeting in the area, which would be in Sandwich, further down the Cape. Instead we went to worship at the Christmas Tree shop, further increasing the American trade deficit with China, in search of beach chairs. We found other stuff, but not the elusive chairs.

Off the Cape we went back to see Uncle Charles again in the rehab place. This time we brought the camera in and took pictures. We spent another hour with him and with Ann before heading home and towards a mighty thunderstorm. I had hoped to be home early enough for some gardening but by the time we arrived the storm had also arrived.

At least it did the badly needed watering for us; the beans, chard, shallots, potatoes, beets and radishes are up and the tomatoes, basil, cucumbers, broccoli and Chinese cabbage are doing well. The asparagus have turned into a feathery forest with peas starting to climb up the stalks.

I made my first batch of mozzarella cheese from the kit I bought from Ricky the Cheese Queen. Now that I have mastered this art, a Panini with tomatoes, basil and fresh mozzarella cheese can be produced entirely locally (except for the olive oil). I can’t wait for the tomatoes to ripen.

And now, back to work; vacation is over.

The people she knows

We started the day with a yoga class, that is, the girls did. Axel started it with lots of coffee and frantic work on Gary’s marketing material that had to be delivered before the day was over. As a result he missed the post-yoga picnic on the beach. The drizzle clouds departed and left us with a day more typical of July than May. misc 012

After Axel’s work was shipped to Gary via an old-fashioned modem (transmission speed 24 Kbps), we spent the afternoon reading our haunting books, Axel’s about Afghanistan and mine about genocides until it was time to go into P’town. It took a while for Axel to mentally jump from the Taliban to Provincetown.

First stop was Alison’s friend Ward who was not in a good state of mind. He can be excused because his body is failing him and he has had enough. He should be in the prime of his life but he is not – closer to the end which he constantly invoked. Still, he could not help inquiring about our kids and whether we had educated them about HIV/AIDS. He offered us a glass of wine while we sat in his garden in the middle of P-town in the late afternoon glow and talked about a father who could not accept gayness and a mother who devoted the last years of her life to caring for her sick son.

We left our car at Ward’s and wandered over to our reserved dinner place on the other side of town right along P-town’s main drag – which was also enlivened by a few fabulously dressed drag queens exhorting people to come to the theatre. Alison appears to be well integrated in at least one subset of the year-round gay community and I think we met a good number of her friends – the ones we had heard about in so many stories.

Dinner was a noisy affair. The quality of the food and the location, a table overlooking the sea made up for the extreme noise that came from the very loud party sitting next to us – New Yorkers we think – a tribe that supports the Cape economically but can be a bit trying because they act as if they are the only ones there.

Dessert was planned to come from a different place, the Purple Feather, where another of Alison’s friends is the assistant manager. He offered us a very rich concoction with cookies, cream cheese and chocolate which we embellished even further with ice cream because we couldn’t resist the display. misc 020We consumed our dessert while listening to an open mike array of musicians – a young man from western Massachusetts, who was a bit trying on the ears and a lesbian couple who proudly sung about their coming out late and their newfound happiness together.misc 019

The Post Office Café was next on our list of stops. Here Alison knew the bartender, Dante, who she claims is the best on the Cape. misc 022We had to try at least one of his concoctions: a Cosmo for Alison and for us a dry martini. That drink should have come before dinner but here in P-town everything is a bit out of the ordinary.

Muscle mess on vacation

As the deadline approaches for using vacation days that I stand to lose – we can only bring forward a certain amount – it becomes increasingly important to find ways to use them; thus yesterday was made into a vacation day, as a prelude to our weekend on the Cape.

The day started with a massage during which Abi kept trying to undo or at least soften the muscle mess around my injured shoulder and upper arm. Since everything is connected to everything else, the tightness extends in all directions. Some of the deep tissue massage was painful but I come from a culture where pain means something is being gained. I hope so.

Axel was next in line for a massage – different body parts, different causes – also with muscle messes and pain for gain. While Axel was being massaged I set up various appointments with doctors that all need to happen in a short period of time, carefully arranged around trips. This is becoming increasingly difficult to accomplish.

Hours later than we had planned we sat off heading south towards Cape Cod for a weekend with Alison in her little North Truro hideaway. On the way we stopped to see Uncle Charles who is only months away from his 100th birthday. He fell, broke his hip (or the other way around) and is now being rehabbed in an inn-like place near his home. His niece Ann is looking after him and keeping the space filled with so many stories that they left me breathless. I tried to reconstitute Axel’s maternal family tree in my head – Sita once drew it on a paper napkin during lunch with Charles about a year ago – but failed, so I simply listened and gave up trying to figure out who goes where on the chart. Although Ann is direct first cousin of Axel, she is already a great grandmother several times over and has produced three more generations against our single one.

Two hours later we left the place, just when a long line of the really old people (as opposed to the young old and the medium old) where lining up to take their seat in the dining room downstairs – a parade of wheelchairs, walkers, walking sticks, grey (or no) hair and rounded backs, enthusiastically received by the most jovial and chipper wait staff. We were told the food was actually quite good. The whole experience stood in sharp contrast with Axel’s rehab experience in Salem.

Less than 2 hours later we pulled up at Alison’s second floor cottage in North Truro and were enthusiastically greeted by dog Abby who instantly laid her favorite toys at Axel’s feet. Alison told us that this is a sign of bonding that’s not for everyone. Abby is like a toddler – never tired of doing the same thing over and over. Like a toddler she has her basket of toys. Unlike a toddler it includes a cow’s hoof – which she chewed on Axel’s shoe – apparently also a sign of affection.

Alison had cooked us a dinner (elegant and easy) that she had plucked off a daytime TV show while stuffing hundreds of packets of condoms, lube and breath mints for the local HIV/AIDS action committee’s outreach campaign. I had never heard of the show and its hostess, the peppy Ms. Rachel Ray. But Axel knew about her. This made me a bit suspicious about what he does while I am out at work earning money (he denied the charge and had some explanation that I have now forgotten but sounded convincing at the time).

And now our brief holiday on the Cape has started. Unfortunately it is still drizzling outside, against all predictions. I have learned that the hurricane season has started two days before its scheduled beginning on June 1. It drizzles when you are on the far outer edges, which is good for our newly planted flowers and crops but not for people who are on vacation.


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