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I went to the office in the afternoon and am already beginning to feel like a stranger. Life there has continued just fine without me and it is a humbling reminder that none of us are indispensable. I reviewed the tasks that are on my plate with a colleague to see who could take them over. This is never easy because people are already very busy. Still, others happily take over tasks that interest them; none of the things I am handing over are dull or boring.

I spent a couple of hours with colleagues to hand over my teaching load for the summer institute course that we do with Boston University. It is with great regret I do this because I love teaching this class. I have developed wonderful friendships with students as a result. We stay in touch through email and facebook and I follow them as they move along their career path, some in far places, others nearby.

Going away is a good time to bring to closure anything that has been dragging along. This I am doing as well. The remaining time before push off to Kabul has been pretty much booked now, including a few more trips to complete the handovers: Ethiopia next week and Ghana at the end of August.

Last night I sat down at my computer to update my calendar in Outlook. I put in my next trips. When I came to the end of August I put in ‘depart for Kabul.’ It asked for an end date. That is when it hit me – with one date I essentially wiped out the rest of my calendar for the near future – everything got bolded after August 31 and anything that was on my calendar after that has become irrelevant to my new life.

I thought of my friend Susan who has, as the doctors told her, entered the last quarter of her homebound journey – the cancer has spread and is beyond control. Although I am sure she is not sitting in front of her computer and updating her calendar – I imagine that she too has a different outlook on time, calendars and what was written on them; for her, commitments and other dates to show up someplace for something are now irrelevant. My experience last night gave me a teeny taste of that.

In Afghanistan I will not be using my Outlook calendar because somehow it is not set up as a meeting management tool in the office. Things happen the old-fashioned way: you walk over to someone or you call them on a cell phone to set up the appointments. Sometime you even write a letter. Imagine that!

It will be quite a change from our full Outlook calendars and cluttered appointment book that sits on the counter under the telephone in the kitchen. It occurred to me that our lives will be so much simpler: eat-work-eat-work-eat-play-sleep except on Fridays when it will be eat-play-eat-play-eat-play-sleep.

Smelly surprise

Just to make the next few months a little more interesting, the septic system failed yesterday. Instead of working on his CV Axel had to deal with this emergency. There was the immediate task of getting a ‘honey’ truck to come and pump us, all 4000 gallons of unmentionables. And then there is the rather overwhelming and bigger task to build a new septic system. When you live on ledge like we do, this is not only a complicated engineering challenge but also one with a hefty price tag which requires the kind of loan that our parents could buy an entire house with. So the CV will have to wait a bit and the danger pay will come in handy.

I had my eyes and teeth recertified for duty in Afghanistan – a clean bill of health on that end. It’s the shoulders and the resulting pinched nerves that remain problematic. After my right hand carpal tunnel surgery the hand-doctor predicted that the left hand would want to follow soon. I have arrived at that moment where I wake up each morning with numb fingers but I cannot find a window for surgery between now and my departure for Afghanistan – every day is now spoken for. Doing the hand surgery in Kabul does not seem like a good idea and feels too much like a luxury in a place where surgeons are busy repairing war and landmine victims.

Tessa and Steve returned from the Bannaroo music festival in Manchester, Tennessee, in high spirits but tired from the long drive. Dog Chicha was jumping up and down from excitement to have her parents back and the daily dose of rough-housing that we, aging grandparents, failed to give her.

Sita showed up as well and planted herself at the counter continuing her work of hooking interesting people up with one another to make the world a better place. She continues breathlessly with this mission and is having some successes here and there.

Now/here – then/there

I have been trying to follow Eckart Tolle’s exhortation to stay in the Now but in my dreams I am throwing that advice to the wind. I have Kabul on my mind – all the time. I have another two and a half months ahead of me of being in this in-between place, neither here nor there.

Upon hearing where we are going in the fall people say ‘why would you go to a place where you can get shot, blown up or raped?’ It is getting a little irritating and last night I found myself lashing out to someone who posed that question. What are people thinking? It’s clear that too few good stories make it out of Afghanistan and so I take it this means there is plenty of work for Axel.

I showed Axel the home page of Safi Airways. There is a slideshow of the places that we visited some 30 years ago with the words ‘Adventure in Afghanistan’ superimposed. It’s a bit of a hard sell these days – who wants adventure in Afghanistan? If the country ever gets its act together the tourists would flow in by the thousands – the beauty of the country is phenomenal and the pictures do their magic, even on Axel. Not that we could take a bus or taxi and drive into the countryside for a picnic. Still, in Kabul, all you have to do is step out of the house and smell the roses, pick the grapes from the arbors that are everywhere and look up at the majestic Hindu Kush Mountains. When I was there last they were still snow covered and spectacular.

The month of July is starting to get filled in: Axel will meet me in Dubai on the 11th of July after my stint in Addis and we will go from there to Kabul for an exploratory visit. We will return to Boston just in time for my pre-op (shoulder surgery) tests on July 27th. After that surgery, a family reunion and packing up and handing over the care of the house to Tessa and Steve.

In the meantime I am starting to hand over responsibilities at work and, with regret and disappointment pulled out of the BU course that I love so dearly. I may also need to drop out of the Ghana work that took me so long to get set up and now we are nearly there but I can’t see how to squeeze in a trip to Ghana in between everything else. It proves once more that any change, however much wanted, comes with losses.

Through one of the business school professors I met last week I have chanced upon a woman who is heavily networked into the Afghan journalist community and is sending me several emails each day connecting me to yet another wonderful person. This includes a young (Afghan) journalist who sent me a picture of himself with, of all people, the minister of health who he knows quite well; small world. Everyone has provided us with contact information and a warm welcome. This is the part of the Afghanistan story that people here don’t know about.

Monkey mind

Last week Axel went to a session at the conference from an Indian business school professor that was called ‘Taming the Monkey Mind.’ I didn’t know that the frantic mind that hops from one thing to another is indeed the monkey mind. I love the image. My mind was already swaying from tree to tree but now it is even more frantic as any change – even a little – accelerates the monkey’s movement. A big household change like the one coming up for us has much potential for speed and error. Thus, the message is slowing down –not one of my strengths – something to cultivate in the next 3 months.

Yesterday, during and after Quaker Meeting we both tamed the monkey and sat for hours just reading Sunday newspapers from two large cities. I had intended to bring some order in my very messy office but I let it slip – it could wait.

We played with our grand-dog and walked her to town and back. When I go into the barn where she lives with Tessa and Steve, I find her splayed on the bed with this sad look on her face that seems to ask, ‘when are my mommy and daddy coming back?” We are not doing quite as much of the roughhousing that she is used to with Steve. She lets me know this by putting a plastic bone in front of me and pretending to snarl, and then picking up the bone in the hope I chase her. We did this a few times around the kitchen. She’s like a toddler who wants the same activity over and over, while we tire or bore quickly.

In the evening we were invited to a salon-soiree or soiree-salon – a dress up event with intellectuals who radiate around Diane and Curt, many with connections to Harvard. I have never been to such an event and learned that the idea is to connect with interesting people and hear them talk about something they are doing. I was glad that I did not have to stand up and talk because I am in between doing interesting work and more focused on the mundane things such as, when can I come on home leave and how much vacation will I have. I think I can be much more coherent a year from now when the project is about the end and I should have something accomplished.

Back home we watched television programs about television programs, a closed loop of informationals that tell us we can no longer watch TV on our analog sets – this is abundantly clear as there is nothing else. A grainy picture with the vague outline of a man says “If this is what you see you have the wrong TV.”

This transition from analog to digital has been in the works for a long time but the country was not ready in February so the deadline got postponed to June 12. Apparently, still, some 10% of the population (predominantly poor, rural, old, minorities in particular) was caught by surprise. We watch in astonishment the army of TV advisors who march into people’s homes and explain what just happened to incredulous and ill-informed people – some in shock (‘what? we have to get 4 new TVs?”). I imagine the landfills in this country filling up with old sets once people get out of denial; some of these sets maybe quite new, sold not long ago (a steal!) by unscrupulous salesmen to clueless folks.

Full

Dorm sleeping at our age is only bearable for a few days, even in the fancy dorm. After a week on a plastic mattress we were happy to sleep in our own bed again. The conference ended on a high note as I picked up two more very useful exercises from the Saturday morning sessions. We said our goodbyes, to Charleston and to our friends and promised to show up next June, in Albuquerque, for the 37th OBTC.

We arrived back home while it was light. In between throwing the Frisbee to an attention starved grand dog (Tessa and Steve are creating their own Woodstock memories in a drenched Tennessee at the Bonnaroo Music festival) we surveyed the garden where everything is growing well because of the incessant rain. This includes intended crops as well as weeds and bugs.

We had a light meal because Axel’s stomach begged for something that wasn’t soaked in bacon fat. The southern food is tasty but we’re not used to that much fat. Luckily there was a CVS, well stocked with Tums, right around the corner from our dorm; the one that also sold wine and beer and ice-cream.

We lucked out in our return flight home, zigzagging around massive cumulus clouds, and landing in Boston less than 2 hours after departure while colleagues heading for the Midwest and southern Midwest found themselves stranded in Charleston or Atlanta because of the weather, waiting in airports for hours.

I woke up early this morning to more rain and wetness and started to clean out my mailbox. I look at the contents now through the Afghanistan lens and so there is much that can be deleted without any further thought. But it feels that with every email deleted, a totally unrelated item is added to my to do list for our move east: what to bring, what to complete, what to cancel, what to find out.

I notice that today is the 14th. I used to pay attention to dates with this number because the 14th was the day of our accident now nearly 2 years ago. After July 14, 2008 I stopped doing that. But the accident is now more prominent in our minds again as we discover lesser ailments that went undetected two years ago and become more prominent as time goes by and body parts remain painful and make the full recovery we hoped for somewhat incomplete.

A bike ride to Quaker meeting today seems like just the right thing to do to still my mind and be in the presence of the divine so I can face the (daunting) immediate future with some tranquillity in my heart.

In good hands

We are slowly moving through the phases of the change process I teach. I am a little ahead of Axel and in the exploratory phase. There is much to think about and sometimes it is a little overwhelming. There is so much that has to be done and so few calendar days to squeeze it in.

The trip to Kabul on Monday or Tuesday has been postponed. This is both good and bad. The good thing is that we will have some quiet time together at home to think through what needs to be done and for Axel to make connections. The bad thing is that my entire summer is a series of carefully dovetailed events that now need to be disrupted. There is a combination of immutable appointments (the trip to Addis, the shoulder surgery with all its pre-op and post-op tests and follow up) and commitments (teaching at BU, a family reunion and the trip to Ghana late August). Sometimes my head spins. Right now I have no idea how all this is going to work.

Axel and I did our mind-mapping sessions and got some twenty people to overcome their fears. A few reported later that they bravely mind-mapped all sessions they attended after us; even business school professors can learn something new!

I attended a session on the Argentinean Tango and organizational behavior. Dancing the tango requires as much leadership as followership and my struggles with leading and following as we learned only one basic step illuminated possible pitfalls for someone who is switching from follower to leader. That would be me in a few months. I experienced the kind of gut learning that this conference was designed to bring about.

A matching dream last night produced another insight all by itself and I woke up realizing that one of the key skills that senior leadership requires is negotiation as I dreamed a complex scenario that required working across boundaries. We have an author of many textbooks about negotiation right here in our midst.

Friday night at OBTC is always the traditional talent show. There are many regulars: a few poets, a yodeler, an opera singer, a balad singer and then a few brave souls who stand up on the podium for the first time, including two dancers demonstrating the tango.

Over the last 7 years I have become the conference chronicler poet and the pressure is on as soon as people arrive on day 1 – asking me, ‘will you be doing the poem again?’ How can I say no? I carry a little notebook with me at all times and jot down things I notice; funny things, contradictions and stuff that’s weird.

I used to be nervous about making a commitment and then finding myself in front of a microphone with a mediocre or incomplete poem. But now I know it will come and I need simply be prepared with a piece of paper and pencil to catch the verses as they appear in my mind. It was my 8th such poem and chronicled the southern experience (food, Tums, dress and climate), the keynote speakers, the theme and the turbulence that Axel and I are experiencing as a couple over the imminent move.

We have lined up some eminent B-school thinkers as coaches and guides for our adventure and feel supported by a ring of admirers and caring colleagues. We are in good hands!

Not knowing

In this warm city, garbage left out starts to get ripe real quickly and so, every morning, between 3 and 5 AM a large dump truck installs itself in the ally below our window and empties containers with much noise. It wakes me up but not Axel.

Yesterday started with a reflection from one of our society’s sages, Andre Delbecq, about theme of the conference (from good teaching to good learning) as applied to his life’s journey. Illustrated with great quotes from Henri Nouwen and Parker Palmer he distinguished between what one thinks one should do, wants to do and is called to do. I understand the latter while Axel is trying to quiet his mind to hear it.

We are currently, as a couple, in the turbulent headwater of two currents coming together with, for now, no land in sight as we are left in a state of not knowing. Not knowing whether we are travelling to Kabul or not next week. Not knowing what Axel will do there. Not knowing what will change in my work relationships when I am in Kabul and not knowing what comes after Kabul. And, more practically for me, not knowing what will change after the presidential elections over there.

Where I was buoyed by Andre’s talk, seeing an affirmation of my decision to move to Kabul for a year, Axel was not because he missed it. He had not slept much the night before, a combination of the effect of the southern fried food and the news about Kabul and so he slept in.

We skipped the paid for dinner at the college cafeteria and instead had a dinner à deux in a lovely Flemish restaurant (mussels and sweet potato fries) to sort out how to handle the turbulence, the strong feelings that are created and the support we need from each. There is a heightened need for communication under these circumstances – and making time for each other. I should know this.

The sessions in the conference are of great use to me. I am looking at all through the Afghanistan prism and pick topics that I think I will need to learn more about. Some are concurrent and I have to make choices. I am collecting names from people to become my support network when in Kabul and everyone happily agrees to serve this purpose. Both of us feel tremendously supported, encouraged and loved by this community of professional colleagues – some of whom have become dear friends as well.

Today is our session – a skill building workshop about mind mapping, which we also planned over dinner, in between talking about Afghanistan and our imminent move. We feel like one eyed teachers in the land of the blind – not pros at it, as people think, but just a little ahead in the practice. We have only skimmed the surface of all the writings about mind mapping and I am a little intimidated when I Google the word. Not knowing but knowing enough for now.

Openings

The news came through yesterday that the job in Kabul is mine for the taking. It feels good to be out of limbo and no longer having to say, ‘if I am offered the job.’ A little bit of limbo remains because I have not received approval for the trip next week, yet the travel agent sent me an itinerary and a question whether to confirm. Axel should be on that ticket but was not. A few wrinkles still need to be ironed out.

Yesterday was a quiet day, wedged in between the board’s work and the beginning of the conference. A bunch of us turned into tourists and signed up for a guided tour around the city of Charleston in the morning and an afternoon tour to the Magnolia Plantation on the banks of the Ashley River, some 10 miles upstream from the city.

Our group included a group a giggly group of (female) school teachers from California in their forties who could, collectively, answer all the questions from the tour guide and wrote down the answers they had missed in little notebooks. A quiet young woman turned out to be a newly minted captain in the US navy, docked in Charleston for the night; a young couple with a toddler and a newborn who fitted in her dad’s palm and never gave a peep during the entire day. By the end of the tour we were no longer a bunch of unrelated individuals but had bonded and talked between and across rows of seats.

As we entered the bus the guide asked each of us where we came from (Philly, Boston) and I could see him mentally adjust his teaching plan. He was going to be gentle with us and show how good the South had been (with their slaves), how scared and vulnerable ordinary people had been and what a shame that 32 of the plantations along the river had been burned and sacked, depriving us of this part of America’s heritage.

The guide talked fast and southern making it more like a foreign language to me. I was exhausted by the time we left the city and wiped out by the time we were delivered back at our dorms. But it had been a great day and, in contrast to my short visit last October, I had a much better feel for the place. Charleston’s main source of income is from people like us. The tourist business runs like a well-oiled machine with thousands of people playing their well rehearsed roles. It was a flawless performance.

It gets hot here and humid. Just like in the kinds of places I visit in Africa and Asia. It’s a little taxing for people not used to it or who are carrying excess bodyweight around. I can see them thinking about weight loss programs. We haven’t seen too many locals with extra weight. Mostly skinny boys and girls dressed to the nines. This is particularly amazing given the fried food they eat here.

Our conference kicked off with an extraordinary session run by Jim Clawson from UVA’s Darden School of Business. Part theatre, part teaching, he affirmed all the principles that we use in our leadership program and kicked at problem-driven leadership work and achievement-focused goal setting with some wonderful and compelling examples while creating a space for all of us in the audience to make connections with others. It was a flawless kick-off for a conference about good teaching and good learning.

This morning I woke up very early – it was still dark outside. My mind was full of thoughts about the impending move to Afghanistan and everything that needs to be handed over before September. I went out for a walk in the cool and empty city, looking for coffee and anxious to clear my mind. I got both tasks accomplished and am now studying the program through an Afghan lens. What sessions and which teachers will help me when I am over there?

Off duty

We finished our last day of Board meetings yesterday at exactly 5:30 PM after another full day of meetings in our plush board room. We ended with a high energy exercise about everything that we knew needed attention and repair. That is now for others to fix and attend to, as we outgoing board members hand over our batons to the newly elected ones.

Part of the reward for doing board work is that you get to eat out in interesting restaurants a lot and have long and leisurely dinners for three nights in a row. We celebrated our accomplishments and the transitions in Virginia’s Kitchen, a lovely restaurant in an old house; we had the upstairs room which looked like a museum, all to ourselves; this time there was no music to compete with.

Over dinner people took turns to speak about what Magid and I had brought to the board. It was incredibly affirming and at times surprising to hear people talk about what I, as an outsider to this academic society, an interloper in my view, had brought to the table. I am, they say here, from the real world, with the emphasis on ‘real.’

I spoke about my introduction to this society now nearly 20 years ago and what a journey it had been and how incredible to have been elected to the Board. Still, despite the fact that I know many people well, it remains an alien culture and I will never speak its language like a native.

The menus in restaurants here are so very different from those in the north. Yesterday’s dishes were variations on fried food encircled by grits and collard greens or sausage and seasfood in a rich soup or sauce. For Axel the combination required an emergency visit to CVS to buy antacids. Lucky for me CVS also sells wine, beer and ice cream – attractive items to put in our oversized and entirely empty refrigerator as we are getting ready for the conference to begin later today.

Axel has learned much about the southern perspective on the civil war. People are still upset and the view is quite different from the one we get up north. Today I am partially off duty: we have to refine out design for the session we are doing on Friday about mind mapping. But most of today we can play untill about 5 PM when the conference starts with much shrieking and hugging and kissing as we see dear friends we have missed for an entire year.

The limbo continues about Afghanistan and I check my mail several times a day in the hope of finally knowing, one way or the other, so I can make plans about the future. But the Afghanistan team has not made its decision yet. And because of that no one is travelling to Kabul on Monday, not Axel, not me. The bad news is that this was about the only window for such a trip; the good news is that I now have a chance to use up some more vacation days that will go ‘poof’ in 2 weeks, weed the garden and eat our first harvest of lettuce.

Feelings

Today is my last day on the Board of OBTS. At the end of the day, Magid and I will be let go and leave the work and the many tasks to those who were elected after us or who were appointed and took on another term. It is a dedicated group of people; strong personalities with opinions and a tremendous amount of experience as teachers and faculty members.

To this day, despite my long exposure to this group (I have been coming to these annual conferences for 17 years) the world of academe remains an alien culture. There are expressions and abbreviations that people use all the time that I cannot seem to keep straight. I have asked but forgot; they are meaningless for me. Issues of tenure, research versus teaching and grading are irrelevant to me but stand center stage in this culture.

I brought everyone their party bags, a tradition I inherited from my predecessor and embellished a little bit by not only putting in things that increase the trade deficit with China but also food for thought, candy and things to doodle with. The brightly colored party bags -primary colors only – stand out against the muted tones of the very corporate board room. Outside in the hall is a huge portrait of the center’s namesake, a local entrepreneur. He is painted running up stairs through a phalanx of clapping people, with a twinkle in his eyes. He looks very young for having made enough money to finance this building. Maybe that was part of the dream. Through this portrait he has secured eternal youth for himself and a place to meet and study for the generations to follow.

Axel in the meantime is on a historical tour and visits Fort Sumter while we do board business. He is tourist among many others in the muggy hot air while I freeze to death in the overcooled board room. We meet up for cocktails with the Doctoral Institute students and faculty who are just getting started with their pre-conference event.

Dinner is in a fancy restaurant, up carpeted stairs with a Steve Wonder look-alike playing the piano for the downstairs guests. We get the piped music. I am shocked at the prices on the menu but relax when I see a steak tartar appetizer that can function as a main course. It’s more than a main course and Axel finishes it off. And I have once again confirmed that I am weird: she wants to live in Afghanistan and eats raw meat. Everyone else around me had the more civilized variety of meat that is cooked, filet mignon that, most claim, is the best they ever had.

Axel and I don’t sit at the same table and so we haven’t had a chance to catch up on what he has done. Instead he talks with other guys his age about the feelings triggered by our possible move east – at least I think that’s what he was doing. Imagine that, men talking about feelings! It could have been a group of women together. This is what’s so nice about this bunch of people who have been so welcoming to both of us over the years.


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