Archive Page 42

The joys of travel

I was able to get two gift certificates from Delta converted into upgrades to and from Brussels, but the rest of the trip, into and out of Africa, was on an airline I have no standing with. My seat was a regular economy, in back of the comfort or privilege class – narrow seats, standard legroom (=not much), and slow boarding lines. I also was to discover later that the transfer of my suitcase from one airline to the other didn’t work.

Once in Monrovia I stood (at first) patiently waiting for my suitcase amidst a cacophony of uniformed people and tired passengers, myself included. The space around the luggage belt was small; the airport reminded me of how most African airports used to be when I started traveling to Africa more than 30 years ago. Much has changed since then; many have been upgraded and modernized. But this one had not. The cramped space was soon filled with enormous bags, people bumping into each other and the uniformed people talking to each other at the top of their lungs, chaos of the first degree.

I engaged Mr. Kamara with the neon yellow vest to find my suitcase and then lead me to the hotel shuttle amidst the chaos. Before the belt has started he assured me he would go outside and spot my suitcase, bypassing the slow unloading process. I thought I lucked out and was going to pay him a good tip for this service that would make my transition to the hotel a breeze. But things turned out otherwise.

Although we arrived half an hour before time, two hours later I was still waiting for the elusive suitcase. And then the belt stopped. By the time I made my way to the desk where missing luggage was registered most of the passengers had cleared out. I was left at a chest-high counter with about 8 uniformed people behind and around it all talking at the top of their lungs about God knows what – most activity had ceased by then.

I could not see what was happening on the other side of the counter, even if I stood on my tiptoes, to see the forms that had to be filled in.  You’d think with that many officials around the missing luggage registration should have been a cinch, but it took another hour in the hot space and me in my fall weather traveling clothes, by now tired beyond tired.

I had asked Kamara to find the shuttle driver and make sure he wouldn’t leave without me. He returned shortly with the sign with my name on it, telling me the shuttle had left but a private car was summoned to wait for me. Kamara had earned his tip, even without the suitcase.

Another gentleman heading for the same hotel had also missed the shuttle and accompanied me in the private car. I was glad to have this male companion when, about 15 minutes outside the airport, we had a flat tire on a narrow deserted road. Luckily there was a spare tire, it was in good shape and there was a jack. 15 minutes later we were back on the road and another 45 minutes later I was dropped off at the Grand Royal hotel. Grand Royal was actually two hotels, an old 1 star crappy hotel (Royal) and an ostentatious and imposing new building (the Grand). The receptionist at the Grand told me she was sorry but they were full and pointed me across the driveway to the crappy royal hotel which had a crappy room for me. By that time I had also learned that my co-facilitators were in another hotel which was also the venue for the retreat. It felt like everything had gone wrong and wondered whether the universe conspired against me, awakening a nagging feeling that I should not have gone on this trip.

Senior

A month ago Sita and Tessa told me to block off the days from December 1-4. They had planned an extended birthday party to celebrate ‘en famille’ at an undisclosed location in Maine.  It was the thing to look forward to after so much else to in our future was dominated by the unthinkable horribleness of our new administration

And so, after lunch in Manchester, we drove to the location. I was not allowed to see Sita’s phone that told her where to go. She hid it on her lap. We arrived at Commercial Street in Portland; I thought: a houseboat? But then we lined up for the ferry to Peak’s Island. It is good that my birthday is in late fall. The island was quiet and the tourists were gone, making it possible to get the car on the ferry every time.

While we were making our way to Maine, Tessa and Steve made their way across oceans and continents from New Zealand to Pembroke, NH. She joined us on day 2 of the birthday party, with plenty of stories, good NZ wine and chocolate.

We explored Portland with the kids in the morning and then walked around town, window shopping the fancy stores where a baby’s ‘onesie’ costs 44 dollars and vintage knitted baby diaper covers cost 88. We didn’t buy anything there; though we did buy a couch that cost a lot more. We had been couch shopping for over a week because our kids were upset with us not having anything comfortable to sit on in our living room (except one chair). There was a risk to upend our Christmas plans, and so we bought the couch which was the nicest we could have in our house before Christmas.

And now it is the day that I officially become a senior. I can no buy a discount pass for transport, check the box on Amtrak reservations and get the movie discount. We now have two seniors in the house. A brave new world!

Filming a question

Last week we met a young couple film makers at the house of a friend in Rockport. I like these new encounters, especially with young people who are doing amazing things. We learned about the documentary they are currently filming about children with cancer in the developing world. And then they told us about their documentary about the Sikhs (under the turban) which was being screened 4 days later at MIT.

Axel was supposed to come but the train came at a different time, it rained, he was soaked, in a bad mood and stayed home to cook. I invited a friend. We had dinner at the Tibetan restaurant in Cambridge and then made our way, in the pouring rain (after months of draught) to MIT.

We learned much about the Sikhs, what the diaspora has in common and what not. I did not know that they are the world’s fifth largest religion (in terms of followers). The film started in response to a question from a 9 year old girl to her parents: what does it mean to be a Sikh? The parents had enough money to take the girl on an investigation that spanned five years and several continents, duly filmed by the film maker couple. They spoke to cheese making and Italian speaking Sikhs in Cremona Italy, and Spanish speaking Sikhs in Argentina. They followed from a helicopter the orange-turbaned members of a Vancouver motor cycle club through the awe-inspiring landscape of southwest Canada.

They filmed a gaggle of young men displaying the Singh Street fashion, wearing their turbans proudly in fashion statement ways. They spent days with the grieving members of a Sikh temple in Wisconsin where 6 of their community were gunned down by a white supremacist who may have thought that turbans=Arabs=terrorists. And then of course they visited the Golden Temple in Amritsar and family members India. I am currently trying to get a visa for India and had to fill in a form that made me swear my trip to India would not plan to be involved anything religious. I wondered how they got permission from the Indian government to film Sikhs. Apparently it was not easy. But the shots in Indian were magnificent.

 

Vistas

Yesterday our friends had organized a gathering at their house to explore the poetry of Wallace Stevens.  I read his bio on Wikipedia and noticed that his life more or less coincided with that of Margaret Sanger. I wondered if he knew about her. They must have been walking on the streets of New York City about the same time.

I was not familiar with his poetry and might not have cared if I had read it by myself. And so this is what I learned about myself and poetry last night: I loved the community experience of poetry. We shared the poems with some 20 other people a good many of whom I did not know, but the poetry made this ‘not knowing’ irrelevant; better yet, it led to ‘knowing.’

When we arrived we had just read in the local newspaper that a friend of us had suddenly died in his early 60s. We read the notice too late to participate in a memorial service that was held practically around the corner. We were stunned and deeply saddened.  As we got ready to drive to the poetry evening we wondered, would poetry distract us? Would it soften the sharp edges of this realization that Tim would no longer be waving to us from across the cove? Leave his kayaks on our beach? Invite us to join him and his daughters as they were perched high on one of the Lobster Cove rocks on a summer evening at cocktail hour?

The poetry evening, the combination of the poems, our eminent poetry guide Paul and this community of poetry lovers, did distract us. Paul had done a fabulous job picking a few poems, wrote them in large letters on flipcharts and had us explore, feel, and even draw what we experienced. The poems were of the kind that I would have read and then shrugged my shoulders, thinking, what was that all about? But after hearing others share what they heard or saw, it was as if a door into the poem opened, revealing surprising vistas of meaning, associations, feelings.

I used to write poetry, dabbling I called it, but I stopped doing it a long time ago. I wrote them when I was feeling low, when things were not going well. This (this time, this poetry session) reminded me of the power of poetry and the power of being with others. I think I am going to write a poem about Trump: Dump Trump! Ha!

Headwinds

I had hoped that Trump would disappear from view and we could go on with our lives, but this is of course not happening. He shows up in most of my waking hours, causing distress. In the community around me I see the whole range of reactions: from catastrophic scenarios to ‘may be it won’t be so bad – there are after all checks and balances;’ from calls to jump into action, to protest, to contact one’s congressman/woman, senators to we should give him a chance, let’s wait and see.

We can gloat about his already being in disarray to form a cabinet or be deeply worried about what that means. We can slap him in his face with his already violated campaign promises (in one week!) or hope and pray that he gets it together as we are, after all, talking about our country, not the alt-right republican America.

The knot in my stomach has loosened a bit but it is still there. I go to bed exhausted from all the mental gymnastics I am engaged in to sort out my response, attitudes and courses of action. I am going to be more politically active, that is for sure. I congratulated Elizabeth Warren on her letter to Trump about the number of ‘swamp’ creatures on his transition team and appointments – she is a brave and principled woman (which of course makes her a bitch in the eye of many). I am going to call my congressman, a democrat, and urge him to follow Warren’s good example.

Against the backdrop of the Trump turmoil is also my current job which appears to be in danger as there is little work for me and planned trips are being canceled or at risk of being canceled. With the big unknowns of Trump’s foreign aid plans, the far future doesn’t look that bright either.

The only bright spot at the moment is my upcoming birthday, 65, which we will celebrate with the girls and the grandchildren somewhere in Maine. I only know that I have to reserve December 1 through 4 for this but not what will happen those days. I am excited about this. Tessa will join us the 2nd, having just returned from her honeymoon after a punishing return flight that will have them experience the longest first of December ever.

Tessa and Steve’s trip is also marred by setbacks, like everything else these days: there was the earthquake and its many aftershocks on South Island, the tsunami warnings, and consistently bad weather on the North Island, Steve’s foot injury and Tessa’s  sinus infection. Mercury retrograde again?

Breathing in, breathing out

We were so high, after Monday’s canvassing in Southern New Hampshire. We convinced some people to vote, even if they didn’t like the choices available to them – though all were fervently anti Trump. We talked ourselves into a Hillary landslide, a broken ceiling, the first female president.

After we had knocked on some 25 doors we travelled to Durham to stand in line for a few hours at the Whittemore Arena where Obama would be speaking later in the afternoon.

After getting inside the arena we were entertained by the university band, and then a series of rah-rah speeches, kicked op by Congress woman Gabby Gifford and her husband, and then, from the bottom up, the entire NH democratic ticket.

It was my first large election rally. It is a strange phenomenon: candidates preach to the converted. Obviously all the people there were going to vote, and vote for the right people. They had spent hours shuffling along in a line that snaked along for block after block in the hope to get a glimpse of Obama.  I was surprised none of the speakers said, “yeah, I know you are going to vote, but what about the other people on your street or in your apartment building; are there people who are not planning to vote for us, or vote at all? Go and talk with them!” The nice thing in NH is that you can vote and register at the same time.

Instead we applauded their every word, their campaign promises that we know are not that easy to realize, until Obama appeared. That was the real treat: he is a master story teller and the only one who actually engaged with the nearly ten thousand people in the arena. Many of us will miss him, what an inspiration.

And then election night arrived. I was stressed out. My gut told me tings were not going to go as we had hoped. We did not go to the Gloucester Democratic Party HQ. It was a school night and I couldn’t get rid of that bad feeling. I went to bed at 9PM when things still looked promising (with only a few percent of the votes in, eastern state by eastern state), but the running numbers all over the TV screen continued to feed my stress. I slept poorly. When I woke up after midnight I checked Twitter and the sinking feeling was no longer a feeling, but a full body sink. I slept poorly the remaining hours, got up very early and went to work.

At work everyone was in shock. It felt like a funeral – I don’t think there are any Trump voters in my workplace. One colleague wore a black armband as a sign of mourning.

We are all holding our breath to see what will happen to reproductive rights (here and overseas), foreign assistance and of course the Supreme Court (how conservative/fundamentalists will it get). Luckily Sita sent me a little video that said ‘breathe in, breathe out,’ the most sensible thing to do.

Victory over virus

A virus invasion left me coughing and hacking, nearly unable to communicate with the rest of the world, for nearly two weeks. Last night was the acid test: could I sit through 1 hour and 40 minutes of Beethoven’s Missa Solemnis without a single cough or gurgle?

Modern medicine and traditional herbal medicine were called upon: a codeine-infused cough syrup and 20 herbal drops every 30 minutes, suggested by our herbal-wise daughter and confirmed by our local herbalists did the trick. From an experimental view it was a bad design since we don’t know which of the two contained the winning formula, or whether it was the combination of ‘something new and old.’

At any rate, it was the result that counted and I was able to enjoy Beethoven’s masterpiece, as some call it. It was performed by a chorus of 40 men and 60 women and 4 soloists, with a fairly large sized orchestra of hired hands in between them. The soloists sung the sacral music with great skill and heart. I wondered what it is like when your instrument is your voice and the virus finds you.

A cousin of our sings in the chorus, which is the reason we went. If every one of the 100 singers invites a few family members you can quickly fill up Jordan Hall. On the reservation screen we got just about the last seats. But once there we noticed many more empty seats than the seating chart had indicated. I am sure it was that same virus. It has been racing through New England like a tornado, leaving whole offices empty, schools cleared out and keeping doctors and pharmacists busy.

Courage and risk

My Afghan/American friend Razia Jan has expanded her Afghan school for girls, graduated the first class, kept a few young women from being married off to men my age, and is now forging forward with a community college aimed at bringing Afghan women into the productive economy. You’d think it would be an obvious calculation: more family income, more employ, more taxes, more development and more happiness. But in Afghanistan nothing is simple.

Beth Murphy produced a new documentary about Razia’s school. It took her 6 years. Once you see it you can see why – it takes a tremendous amount of time to  build the kind of trust that is needed to be able to film very intimate scenes inside the homes of some of the students and teachers. The documentary has been airing on public television. I took advantage of Razia being in the area on one of her many successful fundraising sweeps through the US, by contributing to a fundraiser in Concord (MA). A certain level of contribution allowed me to spend some quality time with Razia jan over dinner and get to watch the documentary in a private screening.

The film gives one perspective: where else does the head teacher have to drink a cup of water from the well every morning to make sure the well is not poisoned? She comments, ‘better just me being poisoned than 400 girls.’ It gives a new meaning to passion and commitment. The constant threats and risks require enormous effort and patience to make sure that the elders in the community play their part in safeguarding the girls and the entire idea of the school.

There is a request for me from my colleagues in Afghanistan to come out and work with midwives. I am of two minds as the news coming out of Afghanistan is not very encouraging. But then again, it never has. I think of Razia jan and her girls, her teachers, and the daily acts of courage they display. They too have a choice. They choose the path less traveled. It is risky, everything in Afghanistan is risky.

Sanger

On Friday I had committed to doing a talk at work about Margaret Sanger. I had chosen the month of October because that was the month, 100 years ago, that she and her sister Ethel Byrne opened the first Birth Control clinic in Brooklyn, New York.  On Thursday night the Planned Parenthood League of Massachusetts held a gathering in Brookline to do the same. The timing was perfect.

Although I had read many books, both her own and those of biographers, I had missed this one book, Terrible Virtue by Ellen Feldman. It turned out that the author was the speaker at the event. Everyone received a copy, signed if you wanted that.  I realized how much I knew about her life (compared to the others in the room), and the many contradictions that are not uncommon when you study Great Leaders. Terrible Virtue is historical fiction and a great read. It does a great job showing Margaret Sanger in all her complexity.

Although not the first in the world (1880 saw the first birth control clinic opened in Holland), it was the first time that poor American women (mostly immigrants) could go to a place and ask for advice on how to avoid repeat pregnancies.  Margaret’s mother herself had had 18 pregnancies in 25 years.

On the clinic’s opening day more than 150 women lined up, around the corner of Amboy Street, to learn about the secrets of controlling one’s fertility. As a visiting nurse Margaret Sanger had visited the crowded, smelly and cramped tenements of the lower East Side of New York City, and had seen the consequences of unbridled fertility, and the disastrous consequences of botched abortions. The women, haggard, stretched to their limits, trying to care for their many children, begged her for information. They knew little or nothing about their own bodies and the physiology of reproduction. Neither did their husbands.

Women of means knew how to limit their fertility. They could find and pay for doctors who were willing to perform abortions in secret, or provide modern contraceptives such as the pessary, sponges or condoms. Condoms were only available to men to avoid spreading disease. For low income families the cost of a condom was out of reach. Even if they could get condoms, the women laughed at the idea that they could get their men to use them.

The Comstock Laws of 1873 forbade anyone to talk or write about methods to prevent conception (and of course to abort). The punishment was jail or fines, a risk many in the medical establishment did not want to take.

Margaret Sanger challenged the outdated laws made by men to protect men. Over a lifetime (1876-1966) she changed the sexual and reproductive landscape, not just in the United States. The birth control movement was taking root around the world. Family planning associations were founded in many countries around the world in the immediate post World War II period. At the Third International Conference on Planned Parenthood in Bombay in 1952, the participants created the International Planned Parenthood Federation, which remains the leading global advocate for family planning.

Seasonal migration

It’s that time of the year again. A frost warning is expected any time now and since Axel is going to upstate NY for a week today, this migration could not be postponed. It is a big two-person job.

This morning, after their long summer vacation in the great outdoor of Lobster Cove, our house plants woke up snug and warm inside.

We had to dig the acorns out of their roots, so cleverly hidden by the squirrels. Oh how disappointed they will be when the return later to collect them. We cut off protruding roots, wiped off the dirt, spiderwebs and worms from the bottom of their  pots. Some of our houseplants have been with us since we moved from Senegal to Brooklyn in 1981. They had become small trees. We were unforgiving yesterday when we cut them down to size, and did not, as we used to do, start new plants from the cut off branches. Our house is too small. We are now on a trajectory of shrinking rather than expanding. Off with those branches! Over the edge!

Axel is going to co-facilitate an event with a nonprofit global venture organization that is bringing in all its global partners. It sounds so exciting. I looked at their website and if I was young and open to anything, that’s the team I would join if they’d have me.

I will once again be home alone. This time I don’t think I am going to clean out more closets and cellars, but rather catching up on reading and writing.

A lot has been churning in my head from the readings of Margaret Sanger, watching the movie Snowden – and reading how other companies have been teaching leadership. I keep looking for the essence, the few basic levers that one has put out there for people to learn to press. What are they? I sense that I am engaged in the mental equivalent of the creation of a nest, hollowing out the earth, collecting twigs and grasses to create the perfect place to bring that baby forth.


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