Archive Page 68

A good stay

A weekend at the Serena Kigali is pretty nice. I had my second massage after a visit to one of my colleagues in both his current house on one side of the city and the house he is building on the other side of the city.  His one and a half year son accompanied us which made me miss Faro.

I had all sorts of plans to write a short paper I have to produce by Monday, and tinkered a little with the outline, but the writing will have to wait until tomorrow when, once again I have great intentions and many distractions.

I am getting to know a new colleague and there is much to talk about. She is excited about landing in Rwanda; I would be too. The climate is beautiful, the vistas from every part of the city are breath taking and there are basically no traffic jams. And if there happens to be one there are many ways to descend or climb the various ‘collines’ as they used to be called in the old Rwanda.

I have stopped watching TV as it is all about terrorists. The media appear to be as active as the terrorists themselves in seeding terror in our hearts. Instead I listen to the chickflick equivalent in audiobooks and do electronic jigsaw puzzles, interrupted by nice long meals in great company, sitting outdoors in a cool breeze: not too warm, not too cold. When people pity me about my long trips packed in economy they forget there are these nice stays in between – not always of course but certainly this time.

My shoulder is a little better these days even though there is no reason for that. Last week the nights were painful, bringing me sometimes to tears but now I have a large king size bed with 6 fluffy pillows with which I build a nest; it seems to work.

The internet connection is good enough to allow chats with Axel who, thanks to the wonders of technology, can call me, or  I can call him, as if I am in the office in Medford. He is busy planning his trip, accompanying me to Cambodia and Thailand mid February. Nearly 10 years ago he was doing the same when I was going to Nepal, planning to come along on a business trip but the Maoists spoiled our plans. We keep our fingers crossed that this will not happen this time. As far as we know there are no Maoists operating in Cambodia and Thailand; tsunamis and typhoons are more likely; those too we hope to avoid.

Convergence

While listening to the final chapters of an audiobook on my iPad (to avoid the library removing it from my device),  I let the amazing Rwandan landscape slide by as we drove the 100 or so kilometers to Lake Kivu on the border with the DRC. Some people call Rwanda the Switzerland of Africa, with Switzerland a symbol that stands for mountainous beauty.  In contrast to most other African countries I know, the towns and villages we passed through looked pristine, well cared for and organized. One of my colleagues who has lived here for 8 years, and made this country his own, told me the orderliness and cared-for look is not just an appearance.

We arrived around 6 PM on Tuesday evening at our Serena Lake Kivu hotel. After we placed our baggage in our rooms we assembled for our opening session, an early start to gain some extra time on day one of the retreat.

We have now passed the halfway point of the retreat and starting to converge towards the intended results: a detailed work plan for Year 1 that can be used to fulfill our first 90 day deliverable, to create a budget for year 1 and present shortly to the ministry leadership and counterparts to make sure it is fully aligned with their priorities.

It has been a fun assignment as I am getting to know a new set of colleagues and also partner organizations I had never heard of or only by name: Jembi Health Systems from South Africa, Banyan Global from DC, Tulane University and the (Rwandan) School of Public Health.

I am also in my element because I get to observe people and their interactions with others. This is giving me some raw data to help inform interventions that I may propose to help them work as effectively as is possible given the mix of personalities, cultures, styles and levels of experience and expertise. Creating a new team out of this  is no easy task.

The hotel looks out over Lake Kivu. In the far distance is the DRC. In the middle of the foggy lake is a tall structure that captures the methane gas that escapes through the water from pockets deep down formed by the volcanoes that are ubiquitous here.  If you manage to think away the signs of civilization (people, structures) you can imagine what this place looked like when the earth created itself: a red hot bubbly mass of fireballs, gasses, minerals, flowing here and there, leaving the Rwandans the most deep dark and most fertile layers of soil. It is such a contrast with the sun-baked soil in the countries in the Sahel where, when you drop a seed on the ground, it will wither and die quickly; here it produces something green in no time.

Essentials

I took care of the essentials after my first day at work here: a pedicure and a heavenly massage after a productive day at work, meeting the team, finalizing the agenda, studying the agreement with USAID and learning about the contractual requirements that we have to fulfill in the next 5 years.

I had heard about the Rwandan transformation (since I was last here). As a graph it would look like a deep dive into the netherworld and then a more or less straight line up.  Here are the things that I noticed as I traversed the city twice today:

  • The sidewalks are even, clean, and devoid of weeds with on and off ramps. The maintenance is outsourced.
  • All motorbike riders (taxis and privates) wear helmets; the motor bike taxis carry a helmet for their passengers. Not doing so will cost you dearly.
  • Everyone has their seatbelts on, not doing so will cost you.
  • The roads (I am told) to the provinces are as good as the ones in Kigali.
  • Speed limits are checked. If you speed you pay.
  • Cars generally look in good shape, not like the ones (taxis especially) I have taken in other countries in Africa that look like they hold together with wire, duct tape and gum, with questionable brakes and missing essential car upholstery.

It shows what is possible, and could be achieved in the surrounding countries, if the leadership thinks such public health measures are important. They certainly will have reduced the cost of caring for trauma patients or losing productive members of society to preventable traffic accidents.  I am sure I will learn about other public health measures that this country has taken to ensure a healthy and productive workforce.

My two colleagues have arrived from DC and tomorrow we will drive to Gisenyi  to start our retreat.

Landed – Kigali City

I arrived in Kigali after an uneventful but long trip; unless the storms in Holland and western Europe count as eventful. All the planes out of Schiphol had to use the same runway which made for an extra hour sitting in the plane, waiting.

On the Amsterdam to Kigali leg there were less sneezers and coughers than on the previous leg, which was a little extreme. Still, there were a few in my neighborhood, so on went the mask. Again, I was the only one. No one else seems to be worried – am I becoming too American, worrying about germs? My two most recent bouts with pneumonia and upper respiratory illness during the entire length of my stay in Burkina and later in Madagascar have made me a little paranoid.

I might as well have arrived in a new country, even the capital  is no longer simply Kigali, but Kigali City. So far I have not recognized anything except the hotel Mille Collines that our driver pointed out to me. I did recognize a former colleague on the plane. She now works for another organization in DC as their capacity building expert. Her new job allows her to fly business class – such luck! They must not have much competition if they can afford the steep B-class fares for their staff.

I had settled in my hotel room feeling as if I just had stepped off a long boat ride, with the hotel room swaying as if there was an earthquake (there wasn’t – just my brain playing tricks one me).

I called room service for a plastic bag with ice for my sore shoulder. But how to do that in a country that has banned plastic bags (the sturdy yellow Schiphol bags are perfect for icing). Before embarking we were told that we should leave all plastic bags on the plane.  The nice room service girl came up with a bucket of ice, a mesh bag (not plastic) and a hairnet (also not plastic and full of holes) to put the ice in. I don’t think she understood the purpose and looked very concerned when I told her I was injured and needed to get the inflammation down. She offered to call a doctor.  As soon as she left the room I took one of the many small plastic bags that the TSA requires for liquids and was able to ice myself without getting soaked. I think such bags are legal.

Tomorrow I will meet the new team, which consists mostly of old-timers. One of the newcomers authored several books and studies on leadership in East Asia which I devoured for a writing assignment some years ago. What a surprise to meet him here in faraway Africa, and now a colleague of mine.

Travelling again

I am back on the road, after 2 months on the ground, something that is rather rare. I am off to warmer places, a welcome change after the intense cold spell in Massachusetts.

I nearly forgot the routine. Luckily I put my face masks in my hand luggage at the last minute because I have never been on a plane with so many coughers and sneezers, including my neighbor.  I pressed the mask tightly on and only lifted it for drinking sips of water and taking my meals, so there were some breaches; fingers crossed.

I waved my breakfast in the plane in order to leave room for the much better offerings in the KLM lounge: beschuit met kaas, beschuit met hagelslag, poffertjes and speculaas koekjes. This is where I get my fix of Dutch goodies not available in the US.

I am off on a combo trip: first two weeks in Rwanda where I last landed in 1992. It is a different country now, in many ways, traumatized still, I presume. How could one not, with the generation that survived the slaughter still alive, and adults with unspeakable memories from childhood. And then there is the language, from French to English, although I am told there are still plenty of (older) French speakers around who struggle with English.

I am facilitating the launch of a new project that is actually not all that new, a follow-on of the previous one that we also held, and so many staff continue on, with some new employees and new partners.  We will hold this workplanning retreat off site, some 100 km from Kigali in a place called Gisenyi, on the border with the DRC. I was there too 23 years ago.  We walked across the border into what was then Zaire to experience super-inflation: 2.5 million Zaires, the currency then, bought me a tube of toothpaste. I still have a few of the million Zaire bills, kept as a souvenir of a different era. I also have some Rwandan money from that time.

In my second week in Rwanda the project staff will sit down with its government counterparts and go over their plans to make sure everyone is aligned and expectations can be met.

After that I will fly to Nairobi for a short stay to meet a new hire, the woman who will take over my role as Global Technical Lead for leadership and management. I hope that the new energy she brings and her new ideas will enrich us. I have, after all, been at MSH for 28 years and an injection of something new is called for.

From there I will go to Addis for a brief orientation of ICRC coordinators to prepare them for their role in a senior leadership program that will kick off after my surgery, when I am allowed to travel again, sometime in April.

Ripped

It seems every year there is some surgery  that is necessary so I can function as a whole person (again). The ankle, securely fused, now allows me to walk without pain on flat surfaces.  Frozen unpaved surfaces remain a challenge, but I am learning to adjust to that reality which is a whole lot better than what happened to others recently.

After a nice Thanksgiving dinner at Sita’s in laws I slipped on a small patch of ice – my luck – and learned today from the shoulder doctor, supported  by pretty graphic MRI pictures that even I understood, that I managed to tear two tendons, the supra and infra spinatus, which are supposed to keep my (left) shoulder in place, entirely off the bone. Although I had already started on a regimen of physical therapy and anti-inflammatory pills, they cannot repair this, only the surgeon can.  Of the eight tendons that keep my two shoulders in place, one is retracted beyond repair (from the plane crash), one was pulled up and is anchored in the bone, and now these two.  Ughhh.

So I am looking at surgery again. I know the drill now – 6 weeks in a sling, and PT for months.

A sad start

The year started sadly, only days after all the good wishes and happy thoughts, always for a better year than the last. But the reality is that every new year carries sadness and suffering alongside happiness and joy. A young Dutch/Indian couple, rejoicing in the arrival of their first baby later this year, which they announced on Christmas day to the grandparents, friends of mine in Holland, is no longer a couple. The young woman died on the second day of the new year as the pregnancy turned out to be ectopic and, I assume, medical aid came too late, in far away Bangalore. I am familiar with the statistics of maternal death in India (190 deaths for every 100.000 live births) but when it is someone you know, who happens to be the same age as your own daughter, it is terribly upsetting.

Old and new

We headed to Easthampton on New Year’s Eve, allowing us to get our Faro-fix and also celebrate the arrival of the New Year with some of our daughter and son-in-law’s closest friends. We made raviolis from scratch sitting around the kitchen table, taking turns at hand cranking the pasta maker, placing dollops of various fillings on the thin bands of dough and stamping the raviolis, square and round. A salad and scallops cooked to perfection rounded out the last meal of 2014.

I had a hard time keeping my eyes open past 10 PM, my usual bedtime. Axel closed his eyes and fell asleep and we woke him up minutes before midnight – as my parents used to do when I was little.

I remember being carried down and placed on the black-tiled window sill, cold to my feet, pressing my nose to the cold glass and watching the fireworks being lighted by the older kids in our street.  Most of the grown-ups would be out, greeting neighbors and standing, arms crossed to stay warm, teeth chattering, exchanging wishes and watching the do-it-yourself fireworks.

Inside it was warm and there was food and warm wine, sometimes champagne and always enormous quantities of runny French cheese and baguettes. I wasn’t interested in the cheese and wine; instead I would go for the leftover chocolates. But the biggest thrill would be to be tolerated among the merry grown-ups. Some years later we would all stay up and play card games until midnight and then go out onto the street and wish our neighbors happy New Year. That is still what happens in Holland: the midnight hour is a signal for a neighborhood to go out and share good wishes; here in the US, if you choose to stay home, New Year’s Eve is a private rather than a community event.

On New Year ’s Day we visited Sita Co.Lab in Easthampton, a large loft in an old mill building, where Sita started her 3rd business,  a place for young entrepreneurs to work side by side or together, turning ideas into something that produces an income, in an environment that is all about creativity. She’s done a great job in furnishing the place, creating a shared vision, a pricing policy and private, semi-private and common spaces; some are being rented, some not yet. It’s risky business, as all new ventures are, but she’s committed to make it work. Now, for their first time, she and Jim have a real office and we have a place to park our unused furniture, our rugs and old copies of Wired Magazine. Now she needs more toys and things that will stimulate the creative urges of its tenants.

We spent the afternoon assembling IKEA furniture, something I love to do, probably because it is simply a variant on my favorite pastime, the puzzle.

Stress and delight

Christmas has come and gone. The dread turned into inspiration. First (even before the 25th) I hung all the christmas light we have that still work, everywhere: around the plants, the windows, the curtains – a tangle of wires. On the outside we also look more Christmassy than ever. I figured I would rise in stature as a homemaker in Tessa’s eyes. The lights were also for Faro of course. When I turned everything on he was mesmerized though I am not sure he even saw the outside lights that Axel tangled with.

As every year I had warned everyone about buying things they couldn’t afford and/or we didn’t need and especially those gifts that would produce more clutter in our already cluttered households (it’s a gene  we both passed on).  I think this year the message took. We gave each other either home-made gifts or clutter-free experiences (like restaurant gift certificates two nights at an inn, swimming lessons), though the teepee that Tessa made for Faro does take up valuable real estate in the Bliss’ already full house.  My present to Steve and Tessa were 6 enormous curtain panels that will keep them a little warmer in their drafty house. It took most of the Christmas week to sew them and line them and hem them, sitting in my temporary workshop set up in the basement. Tessa kept me company while she was making the teepee.

On Christmas Eve we celebrated with one part of Jim’s family, dinner and the traditional Yankee swap, though this time we returned home with several of our own presents. This included a box with the ingredients for Jamaican coffee (coffee, rum and 4 cans of whipping cream). We taught Faro one of my favorite things: spraying the whipped creamed right into one’s mouth. “”More..,more..,” he said in great delight. Now we have another whipped cream junkie in the house.Faro-cream

I had tried to give up on the Chisterklaas ritual of starting our adaptation of Sinterklaas avond late on Christmas Eve and instead do it the next morning – given that we have a toddler in the house who wakes up at 7 AM. But we fell back into old habits and started close to midnight with the preceding hours a frantic burst of activity for most: everyone was busy either writing poems, creating surprises, hiding them all over the house, or finishing projects (like the teepee) – it was, as always, rather stressful, so stressful that I kept walking around muttering ‘this is no fun’ and ‘let’s bag the whole thing.’ Tessa was in tears in the basement working frantically on the teepee with a sewing machine that didn’t cooperate. Only Axel was unaffected; he took a nap and accepted the reality that he was not ready and would not be uuntil the 27th.

And so, despite wanting to orchestrate this otherwise, we couldn’t help ourselves and had our Christerklaas that included IOUs from Tessa and Axel who had not even started their poems.  Our poems hang in the Christmas tree, a novel spin on an old ritual. Jim’s poems are of the literary type, with adapted passages from Keats or Shakespeare or the cleverly composed ‘histories of whatever the present it.’ Sita and my poems have real rhyme and Axel and Tessa’s, well we don’t know yet.

And now the house is nearly quiet with the Blisses departed for Easthampton to pay some attention to their cats since they had been a bit forgotten in the frantic Christmas prep and left to fend for themselves in Easthampton.  Steve arrived very early this morning returning from a long road trip to his family near Toronto. He has had his own franticnness up there and our post-Christmas celebration will be a bit subdued in comparison but welcomed no doubt. We will read the last poems this morning…and be done with Christmas for another year.

Dread

I have this tendency to dread Christmas because of all the hoopla about it and then, poof, suddenly it is there and I am not prepared, being so busy with the dreading.  That was one reason why I have not been writing. The other is that my fall on the ice after Thanksgiving is turning out to have some more serious consequences (another dread), requiring an MRI and physical therapy and many anti-inflammation pills, daily. I am rather handicapped in activities of daily living, which includes putting on a coat, pulling up and zippering my pants and drying myself after a shower.

And finally, my long stretch of not traveling has been shortened due to the insertion of a trip to Rwanda before I head out to Ethiopia.  It required a lot of re-scheduling and juggling doctors’ and PT appointments with the requirements of having a full time job. The Christmas vacation, short as it is, comes as a welcome rest stop – now that I think everything is back under, at least the illusion of, control.


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