Archive Page 71

Elegance

I am expanding my French vocabulary: I had a “Flamiche” for lunch, which is a leek tart – French is so much more elegant than English. The description of wines on the French menu also contains several new words that roll off the tongue like, well uh, good wine. The hotel caters to an English clientele but I must have passed the test as I am given the French menu now. The restaurant is lovely and looks out over the marechages (also sounds better than marshes, non?) and the human and bird lives that they sustain. I still don’t know what the people, half submerged, do all day, but one thing is sure, they toil.

My work is no toil and my light schedule (this weekend and today) help me to recover from whatever I picked up in the plane. I am feeling much better though the gurgling sounds in my lungs are a little upsetting, even though they sound innocuous, like a baby’s little noises.  I took an afternoon nap and keep drinking warm water with lime and local honey. I should be good enough for action tomorrow morning and for the next 3 days.

I was joined by my other co-trainer this morning at the project office and we reviewed the program and divided roles. We first met 16 years ago when he worked with our project here. He has set up his own training institute which has done well in all these years, making a name for his firm and contributing to ‘andragogie’ being known and practiced all around. Madagascar is the only place where I don’t have to explain anything that relates to adult education. They know – and it all seems to be part of the legacy of that distant MSH project called APPROPOP that ended in 1998. We talked about this and what made such a legacy possible and concluded that an enormous investment in training and education and full integration of project staff and counterparts was responsible for the change of mindset and outlook that is still noticeable today, nearly two decades later.

I had hoped to reconnect with a few remarkable Malgaches I got to know well when I came here periodically and was sad to hear that one was dead, two retired (one of them in France) and one had left the country after having been jailed for being in the wrong party. So there won’t be as much reconnecting. On the other hand, I am meeting plenty of new interesting people, new colleagues and even a friend of our ‘across-Lobster Cove’ neighbors who I hope to see next weekend when I should be past my contagious state.

Those pesky germs

On Friday I wrestled with my sore throat but otherwise felt OK, able to do some work at the office in the morning and be productive in the afternoon.

As I drove through town I was surprised to see that the standard taxis are Renault 4Ls and Deux-Chevaux – all cream-colored and most seeming in good to excellent condition. The Renault 4L was my first car – it is one step up from the Deux-Chevaux in terms of simplicity – a far cry from our newly leased Subaru Impreza.  My last Renault of that type was stolen in Senegal, just weeks before we shipped out. I waxed nostalgic seeing so many here.

During the night my sore throat developed into a terrible sinusitis which produced painful pressures on my teeth, my ears and my forehead. I woke up miserable on Saturday morning and resolved that this time I was not going to assume my problems would go away and repeat the Burkina experience. My colleagues mobilized a doctor who came to check me out in my hotel room and confirmed my self-diagnosis.  She wrote four prescriptions which I was able to fill immediately at the ‘Pharmacie du Roi’ in the adjacent shopping mall. The consultation and the prescriptions cost me the equivalent of 64 dollars, half for the doc and half for the pharmacy. I am now taking an antibiotic, something to drain my sinuses, something to reduce the inflammation of my ears and syrup to turn my raspy dry cough into a productive one.

On Sunday I felt much better already and continued to recuperate by taking a very long nap in the morning and in the afternoon. I was able to complete my homework for the weekend.  I am confident, after one more good sleep that I will be able to return to work and be fully present tomorrow when I will meet with my team and put the finishing touches on the design of our workshop with NGO executives.

I am glad there was the weekend to recover – unlike my previous trips where I had to go to work immediately. Still, it pisses me off that I have now had two consecutive bad experiences travelling in planes. Although I brought masks, and used one most of the time, something must have squeezed in during those periods that I had taken my mask off.  Maybe it is my inability to sleep that lowers my defenses; not being able to sleep is a problem when a trip takes 24 hours door to door. Maybe I should be interrupting my trips, cut them in two with a good night sleep in between in a capital somewhere in Europe.

Alert and prepared

The trip to Madagascar seemed endless: 7 hours to Paris and then nearly 11 hours to Tana. I slept a bit but mostly killed the time watching one movie after another, including such old ones as Barry Lyndon, with its beautiful musical score, the Birds, One flew over the cuckoo’s nest and a few newer ones that I have already forgotten (‘niemandalletjes’ we call those in Dutch).

This time I traveled with a facemask, the kind that would keep me from inhaling infected droplets from coughers and sneezers around me. There was such a gentleman, one row and three seats away from me. He was one of these people that, once starting to sneeze, couldn’t stop.  I felt for him because people cast him annoyed glances. I simply pressed my mask a little more tightly on my face. But these masks are not very comfortable and they fog up my glasses, so I didn’t keep it on all the time.

And now, after this interminable trip over the entire continent of Africa, I have arrived in Madagascar with a sore throat. So much for the mask, or was it the sneezing woman in front of me when I tried to follow the opaque and chaotic entry formalities at the airport. I didn’t keep my mask on; afraid I would be whisked away by the white coats that were everywhere. Madagascar is clearly prepared for the arrival of Ebola: everyone had to fill in a special health form indicating where we sat in the plane, whether we had had any fever recently, which countries we had visited, and where we would be staying. That way, I suppose, they can trace people if Ebola or SARS slipped in among us.

As we poured into the arrivals hall each person’s temperature was taken with a small gadget that looked like a gun. They pointed it at our temples, producing an instant reading.  I passed. The next stop was an examination of our health form and only then came the police formalities of visas and stamps – one has to clear the health hurdles before being admitted.  Madagascar is of course a little easier to defend as the borders are clear: ports or airports, none of this porous border business of West Africa.

I arrived at the hotel after midnight, tired beyond tired, and tumbled into a restless sleep.  The next morning I discovered where I was. The hotel is beautiful, with lots of tropical wood (floors, furniture, sculptures) and looks out over what are essentially marshes that have been transformed into a water front. It radiates peace and tranquility, attracting birds that sing lustily and hide in the marshes. For a while I watched people in the distance, partially immersed in water, cultivating something. Others were harvesting something from wild bushes on the dry ground. I had so many questions which still remain unanswered.

I visited the MSH office briefly, got my marching orders for the weekend and inspected the room where we will have a workshop next week. I think Madagascar is the only place where I have held a workshop in a functioning restaurant. It is not without challenges. We will be in a restaurant again next week. The hotel manager didn’t seem fazed to move bulky furniture and hang up curtains to shield us from the restaurant’s clientele. I am a little more relaxed about such things than I was in the past. Que sera, sera!

Back at the hotel at took care of such basics as a simcard, money, water, honey and limes. I will give my throat the same treatment as in Burkina. Hopefully this time it will not evolve into laryngitis, bronchitis and pneumonia. I was very rested before I undertook the trip and my immune system should be stronger than last time. Fingers crossed.

In between trips

I cast my votes for the Massachusetts primaries last week, before the elections as I was in DC on Election Day. I had met several of the candidates for the various high level state positions when they came to Manchester last May. Not everyone made it into the primaries but those who did and visited (and had impressed me) got my vote. When all things are equal (which they rarely are), I cast my vote for a woman to help redress the gender balance which is so often lacking. I was pleased to see that nearly all of the winners were women.  Now they have to take on the Republican men for the general elections in November.

In Washington I participated in an event that presented some of our flagship tools and methods to colleagues and funders.  I don’t come all that often to DC so it was nice to meet people, some I hadn’t seen for years and others who I met for the first time. I had dinner at my friends T&F, a Dutch-American couple who I met decades ago in Niger and who are at times competitors, at times colleagues and always friends.

I arrived back in Boston just in time for the opening reception of the Japanese Women Leadership Institute at the Fish Family Foundation. MSH has longstanding ties with the Japanese and I was pleased that this year we were invited to participate in a month long program for 4 Japanese women who came to the US to learn to be agents for social change back home. The program is in its 8th year and is a wonderful example of people making change where they can – it is about the long view which the Japanese are well known for. Since this was a Japanese affair there was plenty of sushi and everything served in the most elegant way. The Japanese have a way with food presentation, even when using disposable plates and silverware.

I stayed in Manchester on the day of my departure, finally able to focus on the next assignment and responding to emails that required some clarity on what I was going to do in Madagascar without distractions.  The late departure (8:45 PM) made it possible to do this, and pack and have a nice lunch without feeling stressed. I was done with everything in time to enjoy Lobster Cove teeming with birds and, presumably fish or other edible creatures. It was too beautiful to leave, but duty called.

On our way to the airport we received the good news that Steve and Tessa’s endless and stressful housebuying adventure is finally coming to an end. We thought it had, many times before, but each time the bank found something that needed more interventions. They were told that now the closing is for real. They will have moved in before I come back. Halleluja!

Crabbing

I am still in the wake of vacation, despite a one day interruption, a workday on September 2. It’s great to get off the grid but one has to realize that getting back on, as one must, is hard.  I had forgotten about lots of things, including checking my (snail) mailbox which is no longer en route to anything in the new building. A package that has to go to Madagascar was waiting for me but I missed it, and who knows what else.

My travel season starts soon, starting with a trip to Washington DC on Sunday, just when the summer here is giving us one 10+ day after another, followed by a trip to Madagascar that will see me through the end of the month.

On Wednesday my niece and her family arrived for a two month journey to the east and west coast. They started here and now it seems they may not want to leave. From a small 4th floor apartment in Amsterdam to Lobster Cove, they think they’ve gone to heaven.  We spent the entire first day of their journey in and around the water. The weather helped and the water was swimmable as we call it (it is never warm).

We had some assignments: pulling up lobster pots that have been in the water and without bait for 3 weeks. The first one had a surprise: one enormous lobster, unfortunately female and with eggs, so we had to send her back. The others, one pounders, had been at each other (or maybe it was the impressive lobster mama) and an enormous severed claw was lying at the bottom of the trap. We had lobster salad for lunch. After that we focused on crabs, resulting in pounds of green crabs, an invasive pest, turned into crab bisque.

Our Dutch guest, a water engineer, decided he could make a better trap which he did and we tested. It is a prototype that needs some work, but our guests left and we are left with the prototype. We have had more crabs than we can use, other than adding to the compost pile, so the prototype will probably remain with us as crab trap 1.0.

Untethered

The vacation did what it was supposed to do. I didn’t touch my computer for 8 days. I didn’t check my email for 8 days; in fact I didn’t go online except for downloading new audio books, new puzzles and occasionally the New York Times at the local library. I learned that one week can’t undo the stresses of work and commuting to places far and wide – whether these stresses were conscious or not. Two weeks can. We will remember this next year.

Tessa, Steve and the dogs came last weekend which made for a chaotic but wonderful long weekend – 6 adults, one toddler and two dogs in a cabin with two bedrooms. Tessa and Steve camp next to the cabin with their dogs. They are hardened campers – they made their cross America trip in the fall, some years ago, when the north of North America was already in fall or even winter mode.

Those of us who could, slept in. Not me, I am always up at 5:30 AM or so and love that time of the day when all is still. Although not on the water, we have a good view of it and see the sun come up over Booth Bay – the water uninterrupted by boats.

I have been quilting (not by hand) and would sit in front of my sewing machine which looked out over the Bay and the sun streaming into our rustic cabin. Or I would bake, transforming gallons of blueberries into pies, tortes and tarts (there is a difference). I finished 4 books, by reading myself or being read to while doing something else.

On Monday the Dorchester contingent left. We had hoped by then the house in New Hampshire would be theirs and we could admire it on our way home. But alas, the process that started in January keeps running into obstacles and the closing, if it ever happens, is postponed once again.  

Axel and I closed on a simpler deal on Tuesday – we signed the lease on a brand-new car – the third ever in our lives. The first was a Chevrolet Cavalier wagon which we purchased for what would now be a ridiculous sum, when we established ourselves in Georgetown, MA. The second car was a Subaru which got totaled by a nurse racing to work and running a red light and which may well be the cause of Axel’s fractured vertebrae, which is only now picked up by an Xray. The insurance sum didn’t get even close to the value of the car and we swore we would never buy a new car again. We didn’t. This is a lease.

The car business took an entire day which included an hour and a half long wait for our new plates at the registry in Haverhill. We passed the lunch time wait working on our foot long sandwich from an Italian deli that looked like it had been around since WWII.  The foot-long rocket, as the sandwich was called, was the smaller one of the sandwiches offered, and contained about a pound of filling. The Deli was decorated with gallon jars of relishes of one kind or another. Everyone who entered was greeted with a jovial ‘what can I do for you young man/young lady?’’ disregarding the age of the customer. Most were in their seventies, and clearly regulars.

With our new plates we were able to finally pick up our car and drive back to our cabin in Maine to resume our vacation. This we did with a few more lazy days, including a visit to friends a little further south. Faro finally had a playmate his size and gender. Otto is three. He lives in New York City and is vacationing in his grandparents’ house right above a sandy beach. Otto has more trucks than you can shake a stick at. This made Faro very happy and also very tired. On the way home he fell asleep in the car.

Slow and spontaneous

We are on day three of our vacation – if I only count the workdays. The days fly by and I know next week will even go faster when we will have the hustle and bustle of 4 more adults and one toddler and two dogs among us. And from tomorrow on we will have friends visit and friends of friends – our time no longer our own.

The best thing about the last few days is that we have no obligation to do anything someone else wants or needs us to do. We have been spontaneous and slow and mostly (though not entirely) carefree. Spontaneous is a word I borrowed from recently retired friends who told me this was the best part of their retirement – being spontaneous in responding to opportunities that presented themselves. We are also slow: in waking up, slow to make breakfast, slow to get out of the house. So slow that we missed the coffee shop, a plan that came early in the morning, and was realized just after 4 PM when we found it closed.

On Tuesday we visited the Farnsworth Art Museum in Rockland, a longstanding wish but a place too far to do as a day trip from Manchester. The museum houses many master pieced of the Wyeth collection – a family business if art can be called that. Although there were some interesting temporary exhibits (the Shakers – now familiar after our visit to New Gloucester, an exhibit about color – appealing because of my quilting), the best was the permanent one with Andrew Wyeth’s water colors – stunning pieces of work. The Art museum covers a whole city block and includes a church, converted to show Wyeth family pieces, many from family members I had never heard of, but also their own collection of master pieces. We were told to use the elevator, if only once, to get to the second floor. It turned out it was a small moving gallery – large for an elevator, small for a gallery – with two simple benches and art on the walls of the elevator.

Spontaneous also meant we could drive by the cinema and stop to watch a movie, postponing dinner until we got home, making things on the fly, and staying up as late as we wanted – past midnight.

On the way back from Rockland we bought peaches at a farm stand. We think they caused an allergic reaction in Axel who woke up with a swollen face. And so we spent an hour at Boothbay’s emergency care center where they checked him out, gave him prednisone and a prescription for an epi-pen; it’s a cruel thing to Axel, not being able to eat peaches during the short season.

Off the grid, more or less

Packing for a two week trip to Maine was both delicious and stressful. I was trying to anticipate what I would like to do – in line with the doctor’s advice from earlier this week I was thinking of couch potato kinds of activities. We left the kayaks and bikes home. Even if we had wanted to take them we couldn’t have as the car equipped with the racks and space had died and had been towed to our Subaru dealer in New Hampshire, hoping it had any trade in value.

But that hope was dashed quickly. Repairs would exceed the value of the car; with no functioning brakes we had to let go of it and say goodbye. For a symbolic dollar we sold it to the dealership and then took some test drives in various cars we might consider if we can work out the finances.

A few hours later we pursued our trip to Maine where we arrived just before dark. We settled into the quiet of Maine and started shedding all the ‘have-to’s and ‘shoulds.’  We didn’t have to do anything we didn’t want to do. Sometimes that kind of freedom is overwhelming!

Now, early morning on our first morning in Maine I watch a small squirrel eat the blueberries planted next the cabin. There are so many blueberries that I don’t need to chase it. Besides, the previous occupant of the cabin left us two quarts of blueberries in the ancient refrigerator for a baking project that never happened. She even left the recipe of how to make the blueberry crumble.

The projects I brought are mostly of the handicraft type: finishing that yellow cotton sweater for Faro before it gets too cold; embroidering a wall hanging for a newborn that isn’t even a glimpse in anyone’s eye and then lots of fabric scraps for a quilt, following instructions from the quilting book that I bought in the Shaker gift store a few weeks ago during our previous outing to Maine.

And then there is the children’s story that I started nearly a decade ago. I finished it this morning for Sita to illustrate. I also cut up yards and yards of fabric, old dresses, scraps into neat squares and triangles for a quilting project I started on today. For this reason I lugged my sewing machine along, my iron and ironing board. I am prepared for rain and even snow!

We cheated a little with the off the grid thing. The library has a cozy little bench outside its doors where we can catch the strong wireless signal, even when it is closed. This allows me to post, download audio books and my daily jigsaw puzzle while Axel is looking for cozy mysteries. We will stay busy, but in a relaxed sort of way.

 

Bad tidings

More rain today. There is always a shift in weather sometime in August, but usually not this early. What? Fall already? The ferns are already turning brown and some leaves are turning yellow, oh no, I am not done with summer; we are off to Maine in a few days for 2 weeks off the grid.

It was the perfect day for going to one of our countless doctors’ appointments. Is this what old age is about? We go together to have four ears and two sources of questions. But we were not in luck with this doc, a physiatrist, a specialty most people haven’t even heard off. We asked him to explain what training a physiatrist goes through and his answer should have tipped me of. “I am trained like any other doctor, I am an MD, I went to medical school,” he said, as if we had insulted him and questioned his credentials. He did not seem to be able to distinguish between curiosity questions and an interrogation.

His answers were so short and void of any human emotion that he could have been a robot. Maybe he is very good technically, we hope he is, but in the interpersonal relations domain he was definitely lacking. He was checking on Axel’s neuropathy in his feet, the tight muscles in his legs and his back pain to see if there are connections. The news was not so good. The foot muscles have atrophied. When I asked if this could be turned around he said ‘no.’  That’s all, just ‘no.’ I cursed him quietly, between my teeth. Didn’t he get it that we are anxious about all this, nerve, spine and muscle business and wondering what now, what next? Most of the time he worked on testing the nerves with a big frown, as if he found all sorts of bad things, but he didn’t say a word. And when he did say anything he spiked it with words I didn’t understand and couldn’t reproduce.

The only time he smiled and joked a little is when we shook hands to leave. Maybe he is one of these people that find human interaction a nuisance. He did refer us to another doctor, and so the chain continues, forward we hope, but deeper into medics land and incurring the kind of costs that would have brought us to the brink of bankruptcy had we been uninsured.

His advice to Axel was to ‘be a couch potato,’ and ‘not lift anything heavier than a carton of milk.’  This surprised us as we have never in our life heard a doctor give this kind of advice.  It felt like a poor choice of words, this couch potato business – an image that is so connected with poor health and poor habits. Our couch is not suited for potatoes anyways so we will sit in straight back chairs and walk (light walking only). No kayaking, no lobstering, no shed demolition, no Faro lifting, no help with Tessa and Steve’s move. We went to Barnes and Nobles, afterwards for a Starbuck coffee and then we bought books – couch potato books for our vacation in Maine.

Good tidings

After a week of rain and overcast skies the weekend was glorious. We had friends over on their way down from Castine (Maine) to their home on Long Island and took a break from the horrendous vacation traffic up and down the Maine coast.

When we have visitors in the summer we enjoy our beach and waterfront more than when we are alone because there are always so many chores to do. We like having people over and enjoy our place. What we take for granted becomes very special when visitors come and stare in disbelief at our earthly paradise.

Early in the morning I facetimed with Faro to see him ride on his walking bike – in two months he has grown enough that he can now reach the ground with both feet. After that I facetimed my brother who has finally moved in with his love in a lovely house after waiting patiently for their respective children to leave the parental home and selling their two houses. He gave me a facetime tour of the house and it felt as if I was walking through it with him. How wonderful we can do this now so easily.

The son of my friend Lydia showed up with his family (to enjoy the beach) and a friend (to go spear fishing). They wriggled into their wetsuits and then departed with the red and white diving flag floating in tow to keep them out of harm’s (i.e motor and speedboats) way.

They swam all the way from Lobster Cove to Singing Beach, spearing a view tautogs and cunners (bottom dwelling fish I had never heard of) and flounder along the way. They like these fish because they hang out on the bottom and are, I was told, more easily speared than the fast moving fish at the surface. They also make for good dinners. But it does require you hold your breath, that is part of the sport and the challenge. They returned hours later with their catch and filleted it on the beach, leaving us with some of the fish by way of thanks.

While they were hunting, we did the same in a more relaxed manner looking for oysters. Mother nature has deemed it necessary to compensate for the loss of our mussels after she realized that the green crabs, as ingredients for crab bisque, wasn’t appreciated as much. Turning crabs into bisque requires much effort and wading into the cove to empty the trap twice a day. It has been sitting on the floor of the cove for weeks now, serving more as a playground for crabs than a trap. They have figured out how to go in and out with ease.

Axel snorkeled in the emptying cove to places I pointed out from my kayak. The water was very clear and I could see the oysters clearly. We had seen some shells on the beach lately which gave us the idea of taking a closer look. We harvested about 10.
first_oyster

first_oyster_meal

Still, we haven’t given up on our mussels. We transplanted more mussels from Ipswich Bay and expanded the colonies of last years’ transplants. They seemed to have fared well except that the baby mussels keep getting eaten by something, green crabs or, what we learned yesterday, maybe the tautogs and cunners which have sharp teeth and can easily pierce the brittle shells.

Good news awaited us inside as email and phone messages alerted us to progress in Faro’s potty training and Tessa and Steve house buying saga. The poops are landing in the toilet and Tessa and Steve will become homeowners on August 28, becoming residents of New Hampshire, the state where people want to live free or die.


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